My 427 blower motor project.

[LRI]

A few moments where I depreciate the value of my neighborhood. Living amongst senior citizens has its advantages during times like this, as most are deaf as a post.

The data log reveals some interesting stuff. Idle lands around 1050rpm once it warms up. A 0-100% throttle whack sends the RPM to over 3,800 in 400ths of a second. The impressive (or scary) part is that during the blip, the atmosphere inside the engine changes from 14" of vacuum to +11psi worth of boost. This one has some big lungs, lol.

Still lots to do, but it at least starts and moves now.

The dry sump oil pump belt alignment has a small tracking error that I'm still working on. I have a .025" shim on the pump mount now that seems to help. I might have to add a little more.

The next big problem to solve is power management. This is a small tire car, and I estimate the engine to land somewhere around 2k for power output. Putting all of that to a 10" wide radial tire is asking a lot. I am not a fan of 2-step rev limiting strategies on blower motors as it's hell on parts. The mass of a pair of rotors whirling around as they are rapidly +/- in rpm as the computer pulls/adds cylinders (ignition) is not a good thing. A friend who's much smarter than I am has a pretty clever alternative solution using a stock GM throttle-by-wire throttle body. I ordered a pair and am dissecting them now for the upcoming experimental transplant surgery.
If it works, the engine will no longer crackle and pop. It'll just increase rpm, hold, and accelerate off the line with smooth/linear progression. Add some peripherals (traction control), and we might have a good solution for how to launch/control this dumb thing.

 

[nockhunter]

Holy crap that's cool. The headers look like they were a nightmare to fabricate.

Mike

 

[LRI]

Holy crap that's cool. The headers look like they were a nightmare to fabricate.

Mike

They took a minute, lol. Fortunately, I have some friends who are very talented at this stuff. I made the flanges, then spent a week fetching tools and holding shit while he worked.

 

[The D]

In. More videos, pretty please

 

[Maggot]

Gonna drop that into a Corolla?

 

[GreenGO Juan]

A few moments where I depreciate the value of my neighborhood. Living amongst senior citizens has its advantages during times like this, as most are deaf as a post.

The data log reveals some interesting stuff. Idle lands around 1050rpm once it warms up. A 0-100% throttle whack sends the RPM to over 3,800 in 400ths of a second. The impressive (or scary) part is that during the blip, the atmosphere inside the engine changes from 14" of vacuum to +11psi worth of boost. This one has some big lungs, lol.

Still lots to do, but it at least starts and moves now.

The dry sump oil pump belt alignment has a small tracking error that I'm still working on. I have a .025" shim on the pump mount now that seems to help. I might have to add a little more.

The next big problem to solve is power management. This is a small tire car, and I estimate the engine to land somewhere around 2k for power output. Putting all of that to a 10" wide radial tire is asking a lot. I am not a fan of 2-step rev limiting strategies on blower motors as it's hell on parts. The mass of a pair of rotors whirling around as they are rapidly +/- in rpm as the computer pulls/adds cylinders (ignition) is not a good thing. A friend who's much smarter than I am has a pretty clever alternative solution using a stock GM throttle-by-wire throttle body. I ordered a pair and am dissecting them now for the upcoming experimental transplant surgery.
If it works, the engine will no longer crackle and pop. It'll just increase rpm, hold, and accelerate off the line with smooth/linear progression. Add some peripherals (traction control), and we might have a good solution for how to launch/control this dumb thing.

Since your oil pump is belt drive, consider tuning a low pressure safety that will kill the engine incase it chucks the belt.

Tuning a "throttle by wire" throttle body could work. Tracking drive shaft speed co related to front wheel speed to close the throttle body when the drive shaft exceeds the front wheel speed curve. Or if strictly drag racing, just pull a ton of timing out of the launch, not necessarily a 2 step.

Many of the pro drift cars tune the throttle to close at higher RPM to keep the engine off the rev limiter.

 

[502Chevelle]

The HOA is gonna LOVE you! Haha! Very cool project. I’m an old school guy, and this new tech with tuning and stuff amazes me. Bad ass!

 

[chevy_man]

There's a ton of drive by wire throttle bodies, I wouldn't use GM because of the size. I'd think you'd need much bigger to feed a large blower at 2000hp.

The most successful traction control device I've seen is the profiler.

https://moretraction.com/drag-race/profiler/

Which controller are you using for the engine?

 

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

Since your oil pump is belt drive, consider tuning a low pressure safety that will kill the engine incase it chucks the belt.

Tuning a "throttle by wire" throttle body could work. Tracking drive shaft speed co related to front wheel speed to close the throttle body when the drive shaft exceeds the front wheel speed curve. Or if strictly drag racing, just pull a ton of timing out of the launch, not necessarily a 2 step.

Many of the pro drift cars tune the throttle to close at higher RPM to keep the engine off the rev limiter.

I rigged a low oil pressure switch to a shift light pointed right at my eyes. After an oil pump failure that I just happened to catch before airing out the engine.

 

[Evlshnngns]

Thats a beauty of a setup. I'd like to try a supercharger, roots or screw.

 

[Drew M]

The drive by wire throttle works well & is gaining popularity for good reason.

Also plain old timing control is still effective in controlling the power & agree that 2steps are hard on blown cars.
(on another friends pro charged car, he has broken a lot of parts & I believe the 2step is causing a lot of it)

Spent 3 days at the track with a friend 2 weeks ago & we got down to 3.95 @200.39mph with a over the 1/8th on a 275 radial.
( Pro mod, turbo 481X )

We were having issues with it picking the front wheels up from half track & the laser ride height sensor yanking timing to put it back down even with 75kg added to the front end. (It was going 4.06 194mph at that point.)

Made a 4 link change & it settled down not even looking like picking the front up,
Next time out we will take a lot of the weight back off the front & see what happens.

 

[LRI]

Since your oil pump is belt drive, consider tuning a low pressure safety that will kill the engine incase it chucks the belt.

Tuning a "throttle by wire" throttle body could work. Tracking drive shaft speed co related to front wheel speed to close the throttle body when the drive shaft exceeds the front wheel speed curve. Or if strictly drag racing, just pull a ton of timing out of the launch, not necessarily a 2 step.

Many of the pro drift cars tune the throttle to close at higher RPM to keep the engine off the rev limiter.

That (those) boxes are already checked. (DS and front wheel sensors)

The car is on a Dominator. I'm logging just about everything you can on this thing.

Fuel psi
Oil psi
Oil temp
head temp
EGT (8x)
manifold psi
crankcase psi
shock motion
DS rpm
front tire rpm
O2s x 2
Trans pai
Trans temp

I can't do IATs though. Tried that. Nobody makes a temp sensor that'll function at +450*F. PD blowers work great as a space heater. Lol

The other 2 engines had an intercooler. Id turn 7lbs of ice cubes into "cool" water in 5-1/2 seconds. After a lot of debating and chastising from known/credible methanol racers, I begrudgingly removed it. I learned that the methanol tuning window is so broad that when temps go up, you just add fuel. If you have the ignition to light it, you'll still make good power.

I have an MSD Pro600. Fuel is a 16 injector setup. ID2600s on the intake and 800lb/hr Billet Atomizers behind the throttle plates. The pump is a 12gpm Aeromotive.


Going back a few years:

My street car is also a GTO. A 2004. Thst has a 421 LS7 type setup with a 3.0L Whipple on it. The only way Ive ever gotten a decent hit in that car on street rubber is by pulling 12 degrees, holding just enough throttle to bring it on the 2s, followed by rolling my foot into it off the T brake. I try to time it so my foot is all the way down as the lights leave my peripheral.

6.40@109mph on a 10" slick. 4300lb car.


The idea on this car is born from that, the only difference being now the throttle motion is managed with software. (Holley Dominator ECU)

*This is the 3rd engine I've done for this car. The 1st 2 were timing controlled and it was tough to manage the torque. A PD type screw charger is quite violent compared to a much softer hitting turbo or turbo style blower.)


Ramping it in and holding it steady (t brake depressed) without it clacking off the 2 step being the desired outcome.

Not squirting a mess of fuel into the cylinders, oil, etc, unnecessarily being a nice 2ndary benefit. Methanol makes a mess of the oil in a hurry.

We'll see. Still lots to do...

 

[TahoeDust]

This makes me miss my heads/cam built T-56 '04 GTO so much. It was no where in the same world as this, but still very fun. Awesome build man.

 

[LRI]

I rigged a low oil pressure switch to a shift light pointed right at my eyes. After an oil pump failure that I just happened to catch before airing out the engine.

With us, its automatic.

If it dips below a predetermined level, it pulls timing and keeps it pulled. Fuel pressure is also managed this way.

Modern engine management hardware and the programming makes it pretty easy to set a car up as non suicidal.

 

[LRI]

There's a ton of drive by wire throttle bodies, I wouldn't use GM because of the size. I'd think you'd need much bigger to feed a large blower at 2000hp.

The most successful traction control device I've seen is the profiler.

https://moretraction.com/drag-race/profiler/

Which controller are you using for the engine?

Holley Dominator
MSD Pro600


Im not switching to an OEM throttle body as I'd prolly need 5 of them to equal what the blower already has.

The blower has a pair of throttle plates. Each is almost the size of a common smartphone.


What I've done is purchase a couple 2015 era GM pickup throttle bodies. I've torn them apart and modeled the chassis in SolidWorks. The idea is to transfer all of the stuff from the OEM housing to my new one. The shaft receives a bell crank and is then linked to the blower with a couple of small heim joints and a linkage.

I am hoping to control/operate what is already there, not swap over to a different throttle body/plate.

 

[wvfarrier]

Dang! I thought the blower motor on my 403 Olds was complicated!!! No thank you

 

[GreenGO Juan]

That (those) boxes are already checked. (DS and front wheel sensors)

The car is on a Dominator. I'm logging just about everything you can on this thing.

Fuel psi
Oil psi
Oil temp
head temp
EGT (8x)
manifold psi
crankcase psi
shock motion
DS rpm
front tire rpm
O2s x 2
Trans pai
Trans temp

I can't do IATs though. Tried that. Nobody makes a temp sensor that'll function at +450*F. PD blowers work great as a space heater. Lol

The other 2 engines had an intercooler. Id turn 7lbs of ice cubes into "cool" water in 5-1/2 seconds. After a lot of debating and chastising from known/credible methanol racers, I begrudgingly removed it. I learned that the methanol tuning window is so broad that when temps go up, you just add fuel. If you have the ignition to light it, you'll still make good power.

I have an MSD Pro600. Fuel is a 16 injector setup. ID2600s on the intake and 800lb/hr Billet Atomizers behind the throttle plates. The pump is a 12gpm Aeromotive.


Going back a few years:

My street car is also a GTO. A 2004. Thst has a 421 LS7 type setup with a 3.0L Whipple on it. The only way Ive ever gotten a decent hit in that car on street rubber is by pulling 12 degrees, holding just enough throttle to bring it on the 2s, followed by rolling my foot into it off the T brake. I try to time it so my foot is all the way down as the lights leave my peripheral.

6.40@109mph on a 10" slick. 4300lb car.


The idea on this car is born from that, the only difference being now the throttle motion is managed with software. (Holley Dominator ECU)

*This is the 3rd engine I've done for this car. The 1st 2 were timing controlled and it was tough to manage the torque. A PD type screw charger is quite violent compared to a much softer hitting turbo or turbo style blower.)


Ramping it in and holding it steady (t brake depressed) without it clacking off the 2 step being the desired outcome.

Not squirting a mess of fuel into the cylinders, oil, etc, unnecessarily being a nice 2ndary benefit. Methanol makes a mess of the oil in a hurry.

We'll see.

Dominator allows you to do exactly what you are chasing.

Those are some high intake temp. If you are on meth you don’t need the intercooler. What about an egt probe to monitor temps?

Btw sick project!

 

[mick243]

I opened this thread half expecting to see a 427 powered leaf blower.....

 

[LRI]

This makes me miss my heads/cam built T-56 '04 GTO so much. It was no where in the same world as this, but still very fun. Awesome build man.

This makes me miss my heads/cam built T-56 '04 GTO so much. It was no where in the same world as this, but still very fun. Awesome build man.

This is my 2004. My wife refuses to ride in it. Lol.

The dog won't either.

 

[LRI]

Dominator allows you to do exactly what you are chasing.

Those are some high intake temp. If you are on meth you don’t need the intercooler. What about an egt probe to monitor temps?

Btw sick project!

 

[LRI]

EGT sensors were added years ago.