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My 5R

stillbuster

stillbuster

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 14, 2008
314
0
Tupelo, MS
Installed Badger M4 bottom metal then bedded bottom metal, action and 20 moa base with devcon.
Covered action, barrel, bottom metal and scope base in OD green Gun Kote from Brownell's
I had to build up around the outside of the bottom metal with devcon and shape it as the hs stock is a bit slim for badger bottom metal. I also added about 2 lbs of lead shot and epoxy to the hollow cavity in the rear of the stock underneath the limbsaver recoil pad.
After all that I hit the stock with some hay and krylon.
Now....if I only had some bullets..........

R5004.jpg


R5002.jpg
 
Re: My 5R

I was having some issues with my cold bore shifting, I am hoping the bedding will take care of that.
As far as the paint goes I got tired of my rifle standing out like a turd in a punch bowl on the firing line.
 
Re: My 5R

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stillbuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Installed Badger M4 bottom metal then bedded bottom metal, action and 20 moa base with devcon.
Covered action, barrel, bottom metal and scope base in OD green Gun Kote from Brownell's
I had to build up around the outside of the bottom metal with devcon and shape it as the hs stock is a bit slim for badger bottom metal. I also added about 2 lbs of lead shot and epoxy to the hollow cavity in the rear of the stock underneath the limbsaver recoil pad.
After all that I hit the stock with some hay and krylon.
Now....if I only had some bullets..........

R5004.jpg
</div></div>


Looks great. Any tips on the installation of the M4 guard. I have very limited tools.
 
Re: My 5R

I used wood carving chisels and patience. Once you get past the outer glass skin the rest is like putty. I used some long bolts with same thread as action screws. I wrappped them in tape until it made a tight fit inside the holes in the stock, just like you would do if you are doing a bedding job, this makes them center. I then gently snugged the bottom metal up against the stock and using a mechanical pencil traced the outline. Then removed bottom metal and using an exacto knife I started very lightly scribing on the "inside" of the pencil marks. After that it wasn't that hard.
Oh yeah using a semi round jewelers file I also broke the edges on the badger trigger guard loop, I didn't want to have to carry a box of bandaids in my stock pouch those edges were crazy sharp.
DO NOT USE A DREMEL YOU WILL REGRET IT!
If I had it to do over again... I would leave the HS stock as new, sold it, bought a Mcmillan A5 for AI... just my $.02
But I'm the kinda dumbass that will spend more $ doing it myself just because I want to prove to myself I can do it.
 
Re: My 5R

Stillbuster...is the throat on your rifle extremely short?
Mine is so bad that I'm going to have to send it back to Remington. Just curious if any others have had this same problem.
 
Re: My 5R

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stillbuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used wood carving chisels and patience. Once you get past the outer glass skin the rest is like putty. I used some long bolts with same thread as action screws. I wrappped them in tape until it made a tight fit inside the holes in the stock, just like you would do if you are doing a bedding job, this makes them center. I then gently snugged the bottom metal up against the stock and using a mechanical pencil traced the outline. Then removed bottom metal and using an exacto knife I started very lightly scribing on the "inside" of the pencil marks. After that it wasn't that hard.
Oh yeah using a semi round jewelers file I also broke the edges on the badger trigger guard loop, I didn't want to have to carry a box of bandaids in my stock pouch those edges were crazy sharp.
DO NOT USE A DREMEL YOU WILL REGRET IT!
If I had it to do over again... I would leave the HS stock as new, sold it, bought a Mcmillan A5 for AI... just my $.02
But I'm the kinda dumbass that will spend more $ doing it myself just because I want to prove to myself I can do it. </div></div>

Thanks for the excellent advice. Looks a little too advanced for me. I would have used a dremel and made a mess. I don't want to ruin the stock. Thanks again for the detailed information.
 
Re: My 5R

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lineman711</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Stillbuster...is the throat on your rifle extremely short?
Mine is so bad that I'm going to have to send it back to Remington. Just curious if any others have had this same problem. </div></div>

I have never checked the throat as the weopon would shoot .5 moa out of the box with FGMM, if I did my part.
I found some FGMM I did'nt know I had. They don't like pics of 3 shot groups so I won't post it, but yesterday evening after rezeroing and waiting 30 mins for bore to cool I fired a 3 shot group measuring 5/16", I was gonna make it a five shot so I could post it, but I chickened out because I knew I would throw one.....I honestly believe bedding was the issue. When I disassembled the rifle it showed what I would consider severe alum/metal wear as after about 100 rds you could take your hand and wipe it along the receiver where action and alum block meet and your hand would be black this was with the bottom metal torqued to 50 in lbs. I know barell whip/harmonics/vibrations/recoil are going to happen but I think their was just way too much room for movement in action to stock contact.
 
Re: My 5R

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1943m1garand</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stillbuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used wood carving chisels and patience. Once you get past the outer glass skin the rest is like putty. I used some long bolts with same thread as action screws. I wrappped them in tape until it made a tight fit inside the holes in the stock, just like you would do if you are doing a bedding job, this makes them center. I then gently snugged the bottom metal up against the stock and using a mechanical pencil traced the outline. Then removed bottom metal and using an exacto knife I started very lightly scribing on the "inside" of the pencil marks. After that it wasn't that hard.
Oh yeah using a semi round jewelers file I also broke the edges on the badger trigger guard loop, I didn't want to have to carry a box of bandaids in my stock pouch those edges were crazy sharp.
DO NOT USE A DREMEL YOU WILL REGRET IT!
If I had it to do over again... I would leave the HS stock as new, sold it, bought a Mcmillan A5 for AI... just my $.02
But I'm the kinda dumbass that will spend more $ doing it myself just because I want to prove to myself I can do it. </div></div>

Thanks for the excellent advice. Looks a little too advanced for me. I would have used a dremel and made a mess. I don't want to ruin the stock. Thanks again for the detailed information. </div></div>

Don't let me talk you out of it. If it is something you want to do give it a try. One of the best pieces of advice I have ever heard when it comes to working on firearms is "throw the dremel away!".... I still use one, but for specific jobs, never do I use it for detailed work or polishing. I read an article by one of the more knowledgeable people on this site that said Badger bottom metal is not really intended for HS stocks as they are more slim lined sporterized type stocks and that one would be better served to use a different stock when adding Badger bottom metal such as mcmillan, manners etc....but like I said, I have to do it myself
 
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