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My new Savage rifle

beaverpelt

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 26, 2017
209
64
St Louis, MO
I know it doesn't compare to most of the rifles on this site but I can't wait to get it to the range. Savage 10FCP .308 with McMillan stock, Badger Ordnance 20moa base and Badger rings. Scope is Nightforce SHV F1 4-14x50. Now if someone could recommend a good cheek riser.

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Dry cycle the ever living shit out of that bolt and it will start to smooth out pretty quickly, the fastest and easiest accuracy enhancement that you can do to that rifle is to send it off to RW Snyder or other reputable smith and have it bedded. If you reload try Winchester brass, 175 SMK's seated to 2.815" and 43.5gr of Varget.
 
As far as a cheek riser goes, your best option is StockDoc here on the Hide. His work is impeccable and many here are satisfied customers.

StockDoc has tons of satisfied customers here and the KMW Loggerhead hardware that he uses is better than the OEM McM hardware, I have owned both and the KMW hardware is the better choice.
 
According to McMillan, that stock doesn't need bedding.
There are several ways to build up the stock.
These work very well, you can cut sections of a mouse pad and put them between the stock and the pack.
https://www.tacticalworks.com/Tactical-Operations-Ammo-Cheek-Pad.html

There are several variations of this, that requires drilling through the stock:
https://www.stockysstocks.com/karsten-adjustable-cheekrest.html

They make a strap on variety of kydex cheek rests as well, but I don't know how well they stay put.

+1 on Stock Doc if you want it done right.
 
Nice rifle, OP. Also consider Karsten's cheek piece. Easy to install and if anything happens, Karsten is a great guy and will help you out, no questions asked.
 
According to the 1/2” decrease in group size paying to have mine bedded was money well spent.
Didn't say it wouldn't help, I said McMillan says it isn't required.
FWIW, I bedded my Remington action in my XLR chassis. It wasn't a chassis issue, it was an action issue.
I believe Savage's are machined after heat treating, which means they tend to be more concentric.
 
A lot of stocks with so-called "bedding blocks" claim that bedding is not needed. And that is often that case. But quite often a rifle can benefit from a quality bedding job, even some chassis and mini-chassis systems. My Savage 110 FHP in .338 LM came in an HP Precision stock that has great ergonomics and a "V" bedding block system. I bought it used for a good deal from some guy who had only 50 rounds through it (his words). When I took it for its first range trip, it shot everything like crap with the best I could manage with any load being a three shot group just barely under 2" at 100 yards.

Took it home and disassembled it, to find that the action was rubbing in two places on opposite "corners" of the action. So the action was torquing at an odd angle in the stock. I bedded it after first reducing the V-blocks to essentially solid pillars. The next range trip netted small ragged hole groups and after load development, I can put 3 shots through the same slightly enlarged hole at 100 yards. It has also placed three rounds in a 14" "group" at 1840 yards using Flatline solids, so...big difference.

The point of that long story is that the rifle will let you know whether it needs bedding. And in my opinion, you won't do any harm having a quality bedding job done on it and will likely see improvement.
 
Dry cycle the ever living shit out of that bolt and it will start to smooth out pretty quickly, the fastest and easiest accuracy enhancement that you can do to that rifle is to send it off to RW Snyder or other reputable smith and have it bedded. If you reload try Winchester brass, 175 SMK's seated to 2.815" and 43.5gr of Varget.

I was looking at all services offered by RW Snyder. Would the accurizing service for Savage model 10 be worth it along with the glass bedding?
 
I was looking at all services offered by RW Snyder. Would the accurizing service for Savage model 10 be worth it along with the glass bedding?

See how it shoots first, I have Robert drill and tap all of my actions to 8/40 scope base screws and pin the base to the action, it doesn't cost much and definitely guarantees that the optic isn't moving.