Neck Tension Problem?

Brux

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Minuteman
Nov 12, 2013
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308 Lapua brass, annealed after each firing,Redding bushing die, Sinclair expander mandrel at 307
I feel more tension when seating bullets on some case's more than others.
What do yall think?
Annealing incorrectly maybe? I'm at 3.75 seconds with a benchsource.
 
You don't need to anneal 308 lapua brass. Especially, after each firing. It will last and shoot good for a long time without annealing. Also, use some lube on a chucked bore brush and run through the neck before sizing. Keep it simple.
 
Is this a new problem that's cropped up?

Annealing incorrectly maybe? I'm at 3.75 seconds with a benchsource.
Have you tested that dwell time with temperature paint, like Tempilaq? I use 750F Tempilaq on the inside of the necks.
 
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308 Lapua brass, annealed after each firing,Redding bushing die, Sinclair expander mandrel at 307
I feel more tension when seating bullets on some case's more than others.
What do yall think?
Annealing incorrectly maybe? I'm at 3.75 seconds with a benchsource.

Been there, grab a full length sizing die and remove the center primer punch so all you have is just the outer body die and resize all the brass.
After this you should have enough neck tension to load and shoot.
I only anneal about every 3-4 firings.

 
I don't use stainless media to tumble.
I do lube inside of necks before sizing.
I"ve used 650 on the outside of the necks per Benchsource.
 
I don't use stainless media to tumble.
I do lube inside of necks before sizing.
I"ve used 650 on the outside of the necks per Benchsource.

I don't think you're even remotely getting your brass annealed, 750 on the inside of necks is what I use. Putting it in the flame like you're doing, it has to burning off immediately.
Also, either step down a mandrel size if possible or get a different neck tensioning system, bushing die or a collet die that seems to be gaining popularity.
 
There is nothing wrong with annealing your brass every firing, we're looking for consistency here, doing the same things over and over gives that. I anneal every firing, when I did every other firing, the 2nd firing always seemed better, but that shit gets in your head, adjust accordingly.
 
I don't think you're even remotely getting your brass annealed, 750 on the inside of necks is what I use. Putting it in the flame like you're doing, it has to burning off immediately.
Also, either step down a mandrel size if possible or get a different neck tensioning system, bushing die or a collet die that seems to be gaining popularity.

I think this is probably spot on.

I like to start my machine and adjust it in a dark room, as per Orkan's annealing instructional guide video. I don't think you are getting Lapua 308 brass hot enough in 3.5 seconds. I could be wrong since the bench source has two torches, but my Giruad has big torch. I want to say its closer to 6 seconds. Annealing is just like all other reloading processes everyone has their own process to get to their destination. Reloading may always be 99% attention to detail, and 1% hocus pocus.
 
Yep, get some 750 degree tempilaq and put in on the inside of the neck. What you will see is it melts just as the flame passing by the neck turns from blue to orange. Once you get the hang of what to look for you won't need the tempilaq but will help you figure out what to look for.
 
Milo,I am already using a redding bushing die and why step down in mandrel size.
I use a 307 mandrel for a 308 bullet,with spring back I should be around 306 inside neck. .0002 thou neck tension is all I want.
I Went by Orkans video and now I will try some tempilaq on inside of neck.
 
I induction anneal every firing. Starting from new Lapua brass, I get my most consistent bullet seating forces by the 2nd or 3rd firings on the cases. I use the Lee Collet die with the mandrel polished down to where I get .002" neck tension.
 
300 Norma annealed with AMP annealer , 2 thou neck
tension . No gas voodoo for me . The variance you feel in
seating bullets has to be poor annealing , or variance in
neck thickness .

If if you have a tube micrometer measure a bunch of cases
to determine your neck thickness . Lapua brass does vary
in neck thickness from case to case . I have found however ,
correctly anneling with the AMP unit seems to negate this
problem , even in my no turn .295 neck 6.5x 47 .
 

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Measuring with a caliper I am getting 306 to 306.5.
I don't turn necks, that is why I use a mandrel so if I do have a variance in neck thickness it pushes it to the outside.
I annealed a couple of cases trying the tempilaq on the inside of neck and I can't really tell anything from that.
I tried Orkan's way again and at 5 seconds I am getting a little silver color around top of case neck and at 5.5 I am cooking brass.