• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • Site updates coming next Wednesday at 8am CT!

    The site will be down for routine maintenance on Wednesday 6/5 starting at 8am CT. If you have any questions, please PM alexj-12!

Gunsmithing Need a chamber and thread job done on my Tikka T3...

Cowsearshooter

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 17, 2012
48
0
45
Deep in enemy territory, DPR-Cali
I've got a Bartlein medium palma barrel that needs to be threaded, chambered, cut and crowned and turned down a step at the muzzle for iron sights. My local gunsmiths either a) are allergic to work or b)can't/won't cut metric threads (not really sure it is metric though--probably is).

I've got the reamer in hand and the barrel and action as well. If I had a lathe, I'd do it myself but I don't so I can't.

Please PM me if you are interested in taking on some work...I can pay in cash, ammo, or beer. Let me know what you charge in each currency.

As an added item, I'm considering "cleaning up" the chamber/throat on a bunch of 40XB/XC .308s I've got that might benefit from it. Figure it's good to do this sort of thing all in one go.
 
Tag. Also interested in hearing who is wrenching on the Tikka's. Have a lite just sitting here all neglected and whatnot.
 
Had my smith build my tikka, used a LV contour Krieger. About 1.2" at the breach is as big as u can go and still match up to the receiver. The face of the receiver has a radius on it that needs to be machined off. If u leave the radius on , a 1.12" is as big as u can go. The threads are standard, 1" 16tpi. My smith can do metric threads also, just swap some gears. He reamed a 5/8x24 brake and rethreaded to 18x1 mm for me so he wasn't too worried about what the receiver threads were. They were either 1"x16 or the metric equivalent was so close it didn't matter. That barrel threads on smooth and silky like. The receiver face was trued, but more so to remove the radius. It cleaned up perfect in the first .001" pass. Lugs showed 80 percent contact or better, so just fine lapping was used to get full contact. Bolt face was perfect and required no trueing. Are u going with a sandwich recoil lug or factory? I kept factory style since it was going into a whiskey3 chassis. If i was going to use McM or manners i would run a traditional type lug. It is tough to beat the feel and smoothness of a tikka.
 
Last edited:
Had a couple takers on the work--no one local though. I'll have to comment on the results later.

The plan is to bolt this all into an Eliseo RTS Chassis using their recoil disk. Basically a big precision ground washer (or circular lug). I'll have to let the guy know about that radius bit, good call.

The barrel is a 30" Bartlein .299/308" 1:12" twist medium palma 5R that has a 1.250" shank. I figure it won't need much turning down since the washer will take care of a lot of thatwith regard to the receiver. On the other hand, might be good to have him take a bit off for the sake of cleaning up the cylindrical concentricity a bit. I like using big words.

The reamer I've selected is the 308 Palma-Bisely with 0.343" neck and 0.088" freebore. I went with it on Dave Kiff's recommendation--I don't question the man. Should be able to handle the international Palma stuff (155 Sierra 2156) as well as run the M118LR I like when I can get it. The best this barrel will do is 185 grainers (I'm thinking Lapua D46 in anti-hollow point countries and 185 Berger Hybrids in civilized nations)--probably stick to 155 Sierras for the most part though.

The plan is to use the rifle accross the course for the most part but have the reach for Palma and other such events when opportunity presents itself. The club I shoot with out here has it all--too bad I'll be packing up and moving for the next few years. Anyone know any good rifle clubs in Korea? Maybe one facing north on the DMZ?

With a little luck I'll be able to get in a couple matches in the fall--I'll post pics and give range reports and all that.
 
One thing to remember is that when the radius is taken off the front of the receiver, ur recoil disk will be closr to the action screws. How will that work in the stock? Mine didn't matter because the original lug was retained. On the tikka's that are using a sandwiched lug they are bedded into a mcm or manners. By bedding those in pretty well eliminates recoil lug pocket to action screw spacing. With a chassis like the eliseo not sure if the radius being removed will cause the action to be pulled too far forward and mess up the stock holes for the receiver screws. Might be a good question for Gary.