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Need a little help... Glock 23

Don't need to de-cock a Glock. Or flip the safety off, or deal with a heavy double trigger pull. Just saying.
But you have to deal with a shit trigger and shitty ergo's.
My CZ, I decock it before I holster it. No safety and the double action trigger pull is better than a stock glock trigger.
 
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But you have to deal with a shit trigger and shitty ergo's.
My CZ, I decock it before I holster it. No safety and the double action trigger pull is better than a stock glock trigger.

I just bought a Glock 17 (my first) after owning nothing but CZs and S&W wheelguns

Gotta say, the trigger isn't as bad as everyone says it is. It's almost 6 lbs, but only 3 from the wall to the break. Since I reset the trigger during recoil I'm really only pulling the whole six pounds on maybe 3 or 4 times in a stage. The rest of the shots are on a 3 lb break that's not as gritty as I was made to think. It's not a P-10, but it's stupid easy and cheap to make it better.

I actually prefer the grip angle and size of the gen 3 to any of my CZs. It forces you to engage the forearm muscles to lock your grip, making the gun shoot flatter with less effort than any CZ I've ever shot.

I sent the slide yesterday to get milled for Trijicon optics and to put some fwd serrations on it. Ordered today a minus connector and a 6 lb trigger spring to lighten it up a bit (plus polishing the shit out of everything that slides), an uncaptured guide rod so that I can run a 15 lb spring, and an OEM extended magazine release (the gen 3 mag release is stupid small).

USPSA legal extended mags are $18 (Magpul) and 17 round mags are $15 (Magpul again) compared to $35 for OEM P-10 magazines and $35 - $40 for mag extensions...........gotta like that.

Heresy, I know
 
I just bought a Glock 17 (my first) after owning nothing but CZs and S&W wheelguns

Gotta say, the trigger isn't as bad as everyone says it is. It's almost 6 lbs, but only 3 from the wall to the break. Since I reset the trigger during recoil I'm really only pulling the whole six pounds on maybe 3 or 4 times in a stage. The rest of the shots are on a 3 lb break that's not as gritty as I was made to think. It's not a P-10, but it's stupid easy and cheap to make it better.

I actually prefer the grip angle and size of the gen 3 to any of my CZs. It forces you to engage the forearm muscles to lock your grip, making the gun shoot flatter with less effort than any CZ I've ever shot.

I sent the slide yesterday to get milled for Trijicon optics and to put some fwd serrations on it. Ordered today a minus connector and a 6 lb trigger spring to lighten it up a bit (plus polishing the shit out of everything that slides), an uncaptured guide rod so that I can run a 15 lb spring, and an OEM extended magazine release (the gen 3 mag release is stupid small).

USPSA legal extended mags are $18 (Magpul) and 17 round mags are $15 (Magpul again) compared to $35 for OEM P-10 magazines and $35 - $40 for mag extensions...........gotta like that.

Heresy, I know
yeah, but the glock guys are cult members just like the 1911 guys.
They love to go on and on: but....but....but.... police departments yada yada yada
They get so wrapped around the axle, it's fun to poke them.

Blue line glocks are dirt cheap.
Personally, I can't stand the grip or the grip angle, but, that is a personal thing. I'm also no fan of the plastic sights, at least CZ's come with real sights.
 
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I'm also no fan of the plastic sights,

Here's how I fix that

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My guess is undersized projectiles. I've had that same problem with HSM reload ammo, but it can happen with any. Either that or the barrel won't stabilize the very heavy bullets, but I've not heard of that with a pistol.
 
Back on topic, I agree that you should first try a better backer.
If the bullets are indeed tumbling and the problem hasn't manifested itself before, it is likely a bullet issue and not a gun/barrel issue.
 
Blue line glocks are dirt cheap.
CZ's mil/le discount is pretty damn good as well last I checked. I got a suppressor ready P09 for the same price as a blue label Glock. Havent checked it in a while though.
 
CZ's mil/le discount is pretty damn good as well last I checked. I got a suppressor ready P09 for the same price as a blue label Glock. Havent checked it in a while though.
Yeah, they do have excellent prices. My PO9 was very reasonable.
Several of our officers got the micro scorpion packages as well. Those are damned decent for blowback PCC's.
 
But you have to deal with a shit trigger and shitty ergo's.
My CZ, I decock it before I holster it. No safety and the double action trigger pull is better than a stock glock trigger.
See the assumption is everyone uses a stock trigger.
Ghost disconnect 3# and a double acting stainless recoil spring makes things a bit better. Yea, I've shot lots of CZ's and Sigs at the range, don't know the models and don't care. They shoot great at the range. Issue is I really don't give a shit about shooting tiny groups with a pistol, what I care about is putting a pistol in play with minimum fuss and having it spit projectiles out without a glitch. My Glocks all do that. They are personal protection/duty guns and they fit the bill better than anything I've ever handled.
 
See the assumption is everyone uses a stock trigger.
Ghost disconnect 3# and a double acting stainless recoil spring makes things a bit better. Yea, I've shot lots of CZ's and Sigs at the range, don't know the models and don't care. They shoot great at the range. Issue is I really don't give a shit about shooting tiny groups with a pistol, what I care about is putting a pistol in play with minimum fuss and having it spit projectiles out without a glitch. My Glocks all do that. They are personal protection/duty guns and they fit the bill better than anything I've ever handled.
So, what you're saying is, buy a better trigger and sights.
Whereas a CZ comes from the factory with a good trigger and good sights.
All my CZ's function 100% with no fuss. So I got a very good, very reliable pistol with very good sights and a very good trigger, no need to replace anything.
If you have to upgrade it to meet your requirements then there is "fuss"
 
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So, what you're saying is, buy a better trigger and sights.
Whereas a CZ comes from the factory with a good trigger and good sights.
All my CZ's function 100% with no fuss. So I got a very good, very reliable pistol with very good sights and a very good trigger, no need to replace anything.
If you have to upgrade it to meet your requirements then there is "fuss"

Not to mention that there is a single action trigger waiting right after the DA first shot.
 
What's the most important shot? Sure as hell not the 2nd. Just saying.


Actually the most important shot is the one that ends the fight, and since handguns most often need multiple shots to make a stop the first one is almost never the one that matters the most.

And I'm just saying that a skilled pistol shooter can make the first shot, no matter how difficult it is or how quickly it needs to be made, with a double action trigger without excuses.

The real question is that many who fancy themselves as skilled are actually yeahbuts.
 
The bottom left shot is fine. The top right one is a keyhole. Probably for lack of velocity to stabilize the round. I had that happen to me with a new 1911 Officers model (the shortest barrel) using good 230grain ammo. The ammo/barre length combo would not stabilize all of the bullets. Went to 185 grain rounds and the problem was solved.

A Glock 23 has plenty of barrel length and you are using the lighter faster round so I'd look at the ammo first.
 
Actually the most important shot is the one that ends the fight, and since handguns most often need multiple shots to make a stop the first one is almost never the one that matters the most.

And I'm just saying that a skilled pistol shooter can make the first shot, no matter how difficult it is or how quickly it needs to be made, with a double action trigger without excuses.

The real question is that many who fancy themselves as skilled are actually yeahbuts.
See what I mean.
 
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There is also another secret people forget. Just because it's DA/SA, doesn't mean you have to run it that way.
 
There is also another secret people forget. Just because it's DA/SA, doesn't mean you have to run it that way.

Who the fuck carries a DA/SA pistol (besides the CZ 75 and some of its variants) cocked without a manual safety?

If you're talking about cocking on the draw.............LOL
 
In the context of the CZ/Glock bitch fest that was happening. I never shot my SP01 on DA because it had a manual safety.
 
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In the context of the CZ/Glock bitch fest that was happening. I never shot my SP01 on DA because it had a manual safety.
But that is what confounds the glock boys, they don't understand how easy it is to swipe the safety during the draw with a natural grip.
To them, it is some confusing wizadry that defies the fact that humans have opposable thumbs.
I carry a PO9, I de-cock it. It has the option of replacing the de-cocker to carry it SA with the safety.
 
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Thanks I. Advance for your time and input.
I have a Glock 23. Probably approaching 1000 rounds. Factory barrel.
The rounds are “yawing” intermittently at 25 yards.
Not sure what to make of it.
Do I need a new barrel??
Thanks
With a 23, it's not the barrel you need to worry about. Since Glock basically built a a 40SW around a 9mm, it will have other issues if you try to push the pressure limit on it. I've never seen one crack a barrel or slide, but trigger pins, frame rails, locking blocks all will fail in guns that shoot reloaded ammo where the owner tried to get "just a bit more" out of it. I have one 23 that shoots really well that I bought new and has quite a few rounds through it. I also once acquired another one cheap that was damaged from shooting factory overloads from Buffalo Bore, etc. Just stay away from the hot rod loads in it. If you are shooting factory target ammo, you might be shooting something it doesn't like. Try another round. 180 gr target or standard velocity rounds shot the best out of my two guns.
 
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