Me and a friend were rapid firing a Bushmaster AR15 this afternoon when we noticed the bolt got froze forward. I can pull the cocking lever rearward about 1/4" to 1/2" then it stops. Even beat on it with a rubber hammer to no avail. Can someone help me please? Only have a little bit of shooting time this afternoon.
Gunsmithing Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
- Thread starter nacraracer
- Start date
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
1/2 a quart of Mobile 1 or Castrol GTX and cycle till it moves. Then soak the parts after a complete cleaning in the same sauces.
Cheers,
Doc
1/2 a quart of Mobile 1 or Castrol GTX and cycle till it moves. Then soak the parts after a complete cleaning in the same sauces.
Cheers,
Doc
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Pour a 1/2 quart of Motor oil in the up and cycle the 1/4" to 1/2" until it moves then soak it?
Pour a 1/2 quart of Motor oil in the up and cycle the 1/4" to 1/2" until it moves then soak it?
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Hold the rifle upright.
If the rifle has a collapsible stock, remove the stock from the buffer tube.
Pull back on the charging handle and firmly rap the butt of the gun on the ground.
Repeat as needed until the bolt carrier retracts and the offending cartridge comes free from the chamber.
Hold the rifle upright.
If the rifle has a collapsible stock, remove the stock from the buffer tube.
Pull back on the charging handle and firmly rap the butt of the gun on the ground.
Repeat as needed until the bolt carrier retracts and the offending cartridge comes free from the chamber.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Sprayed some CLP down the barrel and going to let it sit for a few before I try that again. Any other tricks?
Sprayed some CLP down the barrel and going to let it sit for a few before I try that again. Any other tricks?
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
I have tried rapping the the buffer tube on the ground (wood porch) while trying to pull back on the charging handle and still nothing.
Any more ideas?
I have tried rapping the the buffer tube on the ground (wood porch) while trying to pull back on the charging handle and still nothing.
Any more ideas?
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nacraracer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have tried rapping the the buffer tube on the ground (wood porch) while trying to pull back on the charging handle and still nothing.
Any more ideas? </div></div>
This has always worked for me. I think it will work if you try it again. Remember to pull back on the charging handle at the same time the gun hits the ground. Two forces at work at the same time.
Good Luck-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nacraracer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have tried rapping the the buffer tube on the ground (wood porch) while trying to pull back on the charging handle and still nothing.
Any more ideas? </div></div>
This has always worked for me. I think it will work if you try it again. Remember to pull back on the charging handle at the same time the gun hits the ground. Two forces at work at the same time.
Good Luck-
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JelloStorm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just put a cleaning rod down the barrel. </div></div>
DO NOT DO THIS.
First of all, and I don't know why nobody here has asked this: Is there a live round in the chamber? If the answer is yes, or maybe, better get someone with more experience, or a smith to deal with this.
If the bolt carrier is moving a small amount, but then sticking solid, you have an obstruction in the barrel extension area. This blocks one of the lugs on the bolt from rotating all the way and being able to move rearward out or the extension. With the muzzle down spray a good penetrating oil/cleaning agent into the chamber area through the ejection port. If the bolt carrier can be moved back into battery seperate the upper from the lower. You can then use a derlin rod and tap the carrier back and forth till it breaks loose.
If you can't get the bolt back into battery enough the seperate the upper from the lower, then do the same thing with the lube/cleaner, and follow the advice for USGI style clearing. DON'T force the charging handle, just hold positive pressure on it and allow the inertia of the butt strike to break the bolt loose.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JelloStorm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just put a cleaning rod down the barrel. </div></div>
DO NOT DO THIS.
First of all, and I don't know why nobody here has asked this: Is there a live round in the chamber? If the answer is yes, or maybe, better get someone with more experience, or a smith to deal with this.
If the bolt carrier is moving a small amount, but then sticking solid, you have an obstruction in the barrel extension area. This blocks one of the lugs on the bolt from rotating all the way and being able to move rearward out or the extension. With the muzzle down spray a good penetrating oil/cleaning agent into the chamber area through the ejection port. If the bolt carrier can be moved back into battery seperate the upper from the lower. You can then use a derlin rod and tap the carrier back and forth till it breaks loose.
If you can't get the bolt back into battery enough the seperate the upper from the lower, then do the same thing with the lube/cleaner, and follow the advice for USGI style clearing. DON'T force the charging handle, just hold positive pressure on it and allow the inertia of the butt strike to break the bolt loose.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 2glocks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did have one that got a primer stuck in carrier, had too take it apart from barrel end, that is a last resort, </div></div>
Sorry to get off topic, but I'd love to hear exactly how you did this.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 2glocks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did have one that got a primer stuck in carrier, had too take it apart from barrel end, that is a last resort, </div></div>
Sorry to get off topic, but I'd love to hear exactly how you did this.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Not sure about the live round. The "bolt" is locked into the chamber and has not moved at all. I can get the bolt carrier to move 1/4" to 1/2" and then it stops and no more movement. I know the firing pin is free floating in the carrier. It's just as if the bolt itself is glued to the chamber.
Thanks for any help!
Not sure about the live round. The "bolt" is locked into the chamber and has not moved at all. I can get the bolt carrier to move 1/4" to 1/2" and then it stops and no more movement. I know the firing pin is free floating in the carrier. It's just as if the bolt itself is glued to the chamber.
Thanks for any help!
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
First make sure barrel is pointed in a "safe" direction, seperate the upper reciever from the lower and take a flat blade screwdriver and pry from under the bolt carrier using the flat part of the magwell for leverage. I have done this many times and safely removed live stuck rounds.
First make sure barrel is pointed in a "safe" direction, seperate the upper reciever from the lower and take a flat blade screwdriver and pry from under the bolt carrier using the flat part of the magwell for leverage. I have done this many times and safely removed live stuck rounds.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Kenda. This would be issue would be related to that really cool (lmao) bump fire stock.
Kenda. This would be issue would be related to that really cool (lmao) bump fire stock.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Like I said, its best if you can split the upper and lower. First it allows you to really get some penetrant into the chamber area via the feedramps.
Second it gives you the ability to apply force in both directions on the carrier.
I wish my husband was here to offer his thoughts (cert armorer) but he's working tonight. I had a similar jam due to a brass shaving in the extension. Three guys at the range (amazing how many helping hands a girl gets without asking) couldn't budge it. My husband did as I described and had it cycling in 5 minutes.
Like I said, its best if you can split the upper and lower. First it allows you to really get some penetrant into the chamber area via the feedramps.
Second it gives you the ability to apply force in both directions on the carrier.
I wish my husband was here to offer his thoughts (cert armorer) but he's working tonight. I had a similar jam due to a brass shaving in the extension. Three guys at the range (amazing how many helping hands a girl gets without asking) couldn't budge it. My husband did as I described and had it cycling in 5 minutes.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Slow fire, bump fire, rapid fire, forrest fire, St Elmo's fire... it doesn't matter. The main cause for your jam is an obstruction in the extension. It could happen at any time, and trust me, you're bump fire isn't making this operating system work any harder than it was designed to.
Slow fire, bump fire, rapid fire, forrest fire, St Elmo's fire... it doesn't matter. The main cause for your jam is an obstruction in the extension. It could happen at any time, and trust me, you're bump fire isn't making this operating system work any harder than it was designed to.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Thanks Kenda. Going to leave it alone for the evening and take it to my AR guru in the morning and let him deal with it. Thanks for all of the post!
Thanks Kenda. Going to leave it alone for the evening and take it to my AR guru in the morning and let him deal with it. Thanks for all of the post!
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Sorry toolmaker, no steel ammo here. Just good old PMC ammo with brass casings.
Sorry toolmaker, no steel ammo here. Just good old PMC ammo with brass casings.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Ok, I have some more information on my mysterious jam. Took the AR to my AR guru. He was able to get the bolt out of the upper using a punch and rubber hammer. Low and behold there was a live round and still is stuck about 3/4 of the way in the chamber. At his place of employment we could not get the round removed. So he has the upper and will remove the barrel and try to dislodge the round this evening. Could this have been caused by the round before the lodged round having the entire butt of the case ripped off and then stove piping the next round into the spent case? Just wondering.
Ok, I have some more information on my mysterious jam. Took the AR to my AR guru. He was able to get the bolt out of the upper using a punch and rubber hammer. Low and behold there was a live round and still is stuck about 3/4 of the way in the chamber. At his place of employment we could not get the round removed. So he has the upper and will remove the barrel and try to dislodge the round this evening. Could this have been caused by the round before the lodged round having the entire butt of the case ripped off and then stove piping the next round into the spent case? Just wondering.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Wow...what you have there is a real Muckin' Fess!!! I could take some guesses on the causes of your problems, but I won't go there. Good luck with getting your upper back on track and do keep us posted. Inquiring minds want to know...
Wow...what you have there is a real Muckin' Fess!!! I could take some guesses on the causes of your problems, but I won't go there. Good luck with getting your upper back on track and do keep us posted. Inquiring minds want to know...
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Skys the limit on what MIGHT have happend. Once your gunsmith gets the round out maybe you'll know more. Or it may not show any signs of what went wrong. AR's can be picky. Hope it all works out.
But I want to point out the dangers of POOR advice while we have this fine example.
The stuff a rod down the barrel suggestion. What would that have done? Best case is produce no result. But what if you'd beat it down a bit? That would have pushed the projo back into the case, either just a bit or possibly all the way in. Now, lets say during the course of trying other things the primer is struck and the round goes off. The over pressure from that compacted round could have turned your Bushy upper into a hand grenade.
Moral of the story? Please don't give bullshit advice if you don't know what the f#*K you're talking about. I'm not trying to be mean here. Everyone wants to seem smart and be the hero with the right answer, but with firearms the advice you give can endanger lives and valuable property. Get the facts (I still can't believe nobody asked about the possiblity of the round being live), and make a post offering carefully considered advice that is based in reality and real world facts. Please. This is a serious forum for "serious marksmen". DON'T PLAY GAMES.
Oh, by the way, you can't pull the barrel and solve the problem from the from end of an AR if the bolt can't be removed. Another bullshit answer to try and "help".
Skys the limit on what MIGHT have happend. Once your gunsmith gets the round out maybe you'll know more. Or it may not show any signs of what went wrong. AR's can be picky. Hope it all works out.
But I want to point out the dangers of POOR advice while we have this fine example.
The stuff a rod down the barrel suggestion. What would that have done? Best case is produce no result. But what if you'd beat it down a bit? That would have pushed the projo back into the case, either just a bit or possibly all the way in. Now, lets say during the course of trying other things the primer is struck and the round goes off. The over pressure from that compacted round could have turned your Bushy upper into a hand grenade.
Moral of the story? Please don't give bullshit advice if you don't know what the f#*K you're talking about. I'm not trying to be mean here. Everyone wants to seem smart and be the hero with the right answer, but with firearms the advice you give can endanger lives and valuable property. Get the facts (I still can't believe nobody asked about the possiblity of the round being live), and make a post offering carefully considered advice that is based in reality and real world facts. Please. This is a serious forum for "serious marksmen". DON'T PLAY GAMES.
Oh, by the way, you can't pull the barrel and solve the problem from the from end of an AR if the bolt can't be removed. Another bullshit answer to try and "help".
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Thanks Kenda for for the help. I have an update. Our AR guru, not a gunsmith has sent the upper back to me. The live round can not be removed by beating the crap our of a steel cleaning rod from business end. Also the round can't be pried out of the chamber. My AR guru said that it would have to be "wet" drilled from the business end then the first round pulled out and then get a shell extractor to pull the second casing. He says it would cost less to replace the barrel from Stag than it would to pay a "gunsmith" to fix the problem. Also mentioned he might be a bit cautious to fire it again. New barrel from Stag 162.00 to the door. Gunsmith at 60.00 an hour for three hours = 180.00
Any ideas?
Thanks Kenda for for the help. I have an update. Our AR guru, not a gunsmith has sent the upper back to me. The live round can not be removed by beating the crap our of a steel cleaning rod from business end. Also the round can't be pried out of the chamber. My AR guru said that it would have to be "wet" drilled from the business end then the first round pulled out and then get a shell extractor to pull the second casing. He says it would cost less to replace the barrel from Stag than it would to pay a "gunsmith" to fix the problem. Also mentioned he might be a bit cautious to fire it again. New barrel from Stag 162.00 to the door. Gunsmith at 60.00 an hour for three hours = 180.00
Any ideas?
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
I really want to hear the rest of this story, keep us informed as to what happens.
SScott
I really want to hear the rest of this story, keep us informed as to what happens.
SScott
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Agreed. He is not a gunsmith by any means but does build ARs' for people.
Agreed. He is not a gunsmith by any means but does build ARs' for people.
Re: Need Bushmaster Help ASAP
Sounds an awful lot like you had a case head separation and you have a live one crammed inside the separated one. The whole take the gun apart via the barrel is the only way to get close enough to possibly remedy the situation.
Pull the handguards / FFT
Pull the gas block
Pull the gas tube
Spin off the lock nut and remove the barrel
There should be a case head sticking out of the breach
At this time you have two choices
Grab it w/ a pair of vice grips and lever it out. Pressure detonation is a very real possibility from squeezing the case too much.
or
If there is enough case head sticking out to be sure you are below the primer
Take a hack saw.........
Make one very long slow draw / push across the case (create no heat)
rest for 30 seconds
Repeat as needed to pry the end of the case open and dump the powder, continue after that until the head comes off
Thread the inside of the brass
Screw in a bolt, over washers / socket, and draw out as per a stuck case in a die.
You may get one or both pieces out at the same time.
Visualize the chamber and if there is a remaining piece of brass remove via the tap and bolt method as above.
Lots of oil, PB Blaster etc is called for after the removal of the powder and primer.
If all that is a bit risky send it off and have some one else do it for you.
.02 for the pot
Not that I've ever done or seen this...... ish
Cheers,
Doc
Sounds an awful lot like you had a case head separation and you have a live one crammed inside the separated one. The whole take the gun apart via the barrel is the only way to get close enough to possibly remedy the situation.
Pull the handguards / FFT
Pull the gas block
Pull the gas tube
Spin off the lock nut and remove the barrel
There should be a case head sticking out of the breach
At this time you have two choices
Grab it w/ a pair of vice grips and lever it out. Pressure detonation is a very real possibility from squeezing the case too much.
or
If there is enough case head sticking out to be sure you are below the primer
Take a hack saw.........
Make one very long slow draw / push across the case (create no heat)
rest for 30 seconds
Repeat as needed to pry the end of the case open and dump the powder, continue after that until the head comes off
Thread the inside of the brass
Screw in a bolt, over washers / socket, and draw out as per a stuck case in a die.
You may get one or both pieces out at the same time.
Visualize the chamber and if there is a remaining piece of brass remove via the tap and bolt method as above.
Lots of oil, PB Blaster etc is called for after the removal of the powder and primer.
If all that is a bit risky send it off and have some one else do it for you.
.02 for the pot
Not that I've ever done or seen this...... ish
Cheers,
Doc
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