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Gunsmithing Need Help!!

FamilyMan

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 3, 2011
720
0
Utah
I started to build a 300wsm off of a rem700 ADL. I traded a standard bolt face for a magnum bolt face got an already chambered rem take off barrel and hat it cut and threaded for a muzzle break so all was going great until I darted to put it together and was checking head space. So for some reason the bolt won't engage the go or no go gauges. And this is hard to explain so bear with me . With nothing in the chamber the boot runs flawlessly and doesn't catch on anything. As soon as I put a go or no go gauge in it won't push in enough to engage the extractor and ejector it just stops dead it does this on a case as well. The catch is if I manually insert the case head into the bolt and push into where it depresses the ejector and slide it in to action It chambers fine and the headspace is within the set parameters but as soon as u pull the bolt back and eject the gauge its right back to the same problem of when running the bolt normally it won't s gauge the case head/rim. I hope that made sense. What's your thoughts on what it could be?
 
Re: Need Help!!

I was told it was a new unfired bolt off an SPS or the likes and it Looks factory but how would I tell? I don't know what the sako/M16 looks like. I can post a pic if mine if needed
 
Re: Need Help!!

Pics of bolt face
33342BAA-5825-4C6E-AFAE-86B9BCD8BB9D-697-00000051755ABB8B.jpg
9703C5C7-4525-4F4F-BE21-AD5D3514554D-697-0000005170A98B81.jpg
 
Re: Need Help!!

That is a factory extractor. When you manually put a case rim under the extractor are you tilting the case lip under the extractor or pushing it straight in? You should be able to push the case straight in and see the extractor move out of the way.
 
Re: Need Help!!

That seems like it is the problem I can push the case straight in in went and tested it on my creedmore bolt and it pushes straight in but this one doesn't.

So..... Now that I think I know the problem how do I fix it? Could it be some thing just got back be hind it? It looks like the extractor is riveted in and the ground off on the outside like this
4DF02E53-657E-421A-8EAF-C5BF6F5444D0-697-00000093CD1F8497.jpg

so I don't see it being an easy task to take it off but you tell me?
Any an all help or idea is appreciated
 
Re: Need Help!!

Judging by the file mark over the rivet in the picture, it looks like that extractor may have been replaced before.
They aren't hard to remove but you will need an anvil of some sort to peen the new extractor rivet when you replace it. You can buy an anvil at brownells, midway etc, or fabricate your own if you have the inclination. Is there any recourse with the person you traded with?
 
Re: Need Help!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FamilyMan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do I take the ejector out? </div></div>

There is a retaining pin that sits perpendicular to the axis of the ejector. You just need to drift it out with a punch to set the ejector and spring free. The spring is in compression so put a rag over the front of the bolt when you drift the pin out so your parts don't become what I call air soluable.
 
Re: Need Help!!

You are better to strip the bolt completely when checking headspace anyway, no firing pin, no ejector, no extractor. It is much easier to feel the "just rightness" of the bolt on the go gauge, without all that in there.

I have almost ( not in all calibers ) quit buying the no-go. I don't work on others rifles, and I already sneak up on the go dimension. If I am really concerned, I'll just add a piece or two of scotch tape to the end of the go gauge, and check it like that.
 
Re: Need Help!!



Take a small flathead electronic screwdriver and gently pry out on the free end of the extractor while blasting it with compressed air or carb cleaner to make sure there is nothing behind it. If that doesn't work, try to tweak it a bit. Pry out on the free end while putting pressure on the little claw with something that won't scratch your boltface.

Be warned, if you overdo it you will ruin the extractor.
 
Re: Need Help!!

Don't remove the extractor. Once you pull a Remington extractor out, you have to put a new one in.

Remove the firing pin and ejector for checking headspace. It sounds like you're OK there.

Remington extractors have to snap over the case rim when chambering a round. I sounds like you may have some dirt or crap under the extractor. Scrub, scrub, scrub getting in, around, and under it as much as possible.

The extractor groove in your guages may be too rough for the extractor. Slip them under the extractor as you have been doing to test headspace. Test feeding and extraction with an actual case, the extractor should slide over a brass head easier.
 
Re: Need Help!!

I tried getting back behind it with every shaped pick and tool to no avail, used air compressor and solvent to flush it out and still no go so u but the vullet and sent it to a gunsmith because to more I looked at it I think it had been pulled out to far before and now it's starting to hit the flit rim if the extra toe not the bar el area that allows it to push it out the way. Either ways its in the hands of someone who is far smarter than me. So we ill see.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrm850</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Is there any recourse with the person you traded with? </div></div>
I've pm'd him and amazingly I've had no response yet but I will just wait and see.