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New Bolt Action which should it be?

VAyoungGunner

Private
Minuteman
Apr 10, 2018
20
8
I’m looking for a bolt action chambered in 6.5 creedmoor between $1000-$2000. Looking to be good from 50m-1000m

I will using it mostly for hunting so weight is a factor.

The Tikka T3X TAC A1 is kind of on the list but at 11 pounds without optics it’s not as likely.

The browning hells canyon speed and long range are interests too, even though they aren’t “sniper” I’m not sure if the speed fits the bill though.

Most hunting will be 600m and in but want to tear paper in my spare time.

And help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advanced!
 
Another option virtually identical to the Howa is the Weatherby Vanguard Modular Chassis. Same action as it is built on the Howa 1500, but the chassis is different and it has a 20" barrel.
 
If you're looking to buy once/cry once........maybe a PVA John Hancock.

Or, find a used custom action on the PX, whatever flavor you decide, a proof carbon pre-fit and a KRG bravo chassis. You'll be around 2k and it should be fairly light weight.

Setup I'm about try:

TL3 Action - 2lbs
Proof barrel 3lbs (more like 2.5)
Krg Bravo: 3lbs (2.9)

8lbs before optics.

Throw an amg there with whatever flavor of ultra light rings and you're at 11 lbs or so complete.
 
Yup, OP said mostly hunting inside 600m. No need for a long barrel if that's the primary objective

Yes, but he also wants to shoot to 1000. Not meaning to argue. I'm asking because I'm considering same. The 26 may be unwieldy, but many hunting rifles are 24". How much speed would be lost with 4" less barrel? IS it not enough to be a consideration at 1000?
 
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Yes, but he also wants to shoot to 1000. Not meaning to argue. I'm asking because I'm considering same. The 26 may be unwieldy, but many hunting rifles are 24". How much speed would be lost with 4" less barrel? IS it not enough to be a consideration at 1000?

In a 6.5 Creedmoor, a 22-24" barrel gives up virtually nothing to a 26". I have a customized Howa 1500 built for PRS style shooting 18", 20" and 22" 6.5 gasser. All of them will easily and consistently reach 1000 and beyond. The 24" pushes 140s at 2730-2740 on a stock barrel and the 22" gasser pushes same bullet 2700. It will add 1/2-3/4 MOA drop to the solution but it's still very supersonic at 1000-1100 range.

I wouldn't hesitate getting a 20" barrel for hunting inside 600 and practicing steel past 1000 yards.
 
I’m looking for a bolt action chambered in 6.5 creedmoor between $1000-$2000. Looking to be good from 50m-1000m

I will using it mostly for hunting so weight is a factor.

The Tikka T3X TAC A1 is kind of on the list but at 11 pounds without optics it’s not as likely.

The browning hells canyon speed and long range are interests too, even though they aren’t “sniper” I’m not sure if the speed fits the bill though.

Most hunting will be 600m and in but want to tear paper in my spare time.

And help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advanced!
For a production 6.5 rifle you could contact Andy Folk with the Firm. He’d get you setup in short order

If you wanted something at the next level, you could get an Impact Action and barrel. Add your trigger and stock and you are good to go.

No way would I join the que for the Hancock. I know they might mean well, but the never meet expected dates. And sometimes miss them by months. And you are expected to understand. FWIW. If that doesn’t bother you , go for it.
 
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Yes, but he also wants to shoot to 1000. Not meaning to argue. I'm asking because I'm considering same. The 26 may be unwieldy, but many hunting rifles are 24". How much speed would be lost with 4" less barrel? IS it not enough to be a consideration at 1000?
Several factors are at play here.
1. Velocity loss (~20 to 25 fps per inch) going from a 24" or 26" to a 20" or 22" will affect bullet trajectory out to 1000m, but trajectory/gravity is a known factor and given that the OP is mostly interested in <600m targets, its not a big difference at 600m (~0.4 mils). Still a 6.5cm has plenty of velocity out of a 20" to hit targets at 1000m.
2. Windage in long range shooting is the main condition to worry about and windage is almost the same with the 20" and 26" velocities. 26" velocities have ~0.1 to 0.2 less wind drift at 1000m than 20" velocities.
3. Regarding handling, a heavy barreled 26" is more unwieldy than a light weight hunting contour 26" barrel. Further, a 20" barrel of any kind is generally easier to handle. So, its up to the OP on this to decide if they prefer one or the other.
 
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1.) Buy any Tikka T3x with a .308 bolt face for around $500 (can get for less used, can sell barrel and stock to recoup some $$).

2.) Buy KRG Bravo Stock for around $390.

3.) Buy PVA Pre-fit Cut Rock Creek for $550 in desired length (light palma at 24in probably ideal).

Combine the above, end up at about 9.1lbs (more or less depending on barrel length and contour) with the nicest action short of a full custom, and a barrel that is at least as good as any other top tier barrel for ~$1450. I don't think you can buy more accuracy for the money. If you really want to max out the budget, get a Proof instead.
 
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Suck it up and get a GAP or an AI. You soon realize you should have gotten one long ago and you'll know why they're worth it. 8 or 10 years and a few barrels in, you'll realize it was actually cheap and you should have gotten a couple more. True story.
 
Tikka CTR in 20" or 24". Either one will do everything you ask and you can spend $1000 or more on decent glass and be under $2k.
 
1.) Buy any Tikka T3x with a .308 bolt face for around $500 (can get for less used, can sell barrel and stock to recoup some $$).

2.) Buy KRG Bravo Stock for around $390.

3.) Buy PVA Pre-fit Cut Rock Creek for $550 in desired length (light palma at 24in probably ideal).

Combine the above, end up at about 9.1lbs (more or less depending on barrel length and contour) with the nicest action short of a full custom, and a barrel that is at least as good as any other top tier barrel for ~$1450. I don't think you can buy more accuracy for the money. If you really want to max out the budget, get a Proof instead.

Good advice here, but personally I'd spent the few extra $$ for the Xray chassis.