Gunsmithing New Krylon job

[pklin1297]

Hello all,

Here are some pics of the first ever Krylon job I tried on my Howa barreled action and factory bottom metal. The bolt knob and the exposed portions of the bolt body still needs to be painted flat black, just waiting for paint to show up today. So far it has been easy to apply but the paint on the sharp corners comes off very easily unless I leave it alone for at least 8 hours. These parts currently has maybe two to three coats of Krylon camo Khaki, and two to three coats of matte clear. The tip of the barrel had to be sanded and repainted because my muzzle plug happened to trap some brake cleaner I had sprayed during cleaning, and that stuff took the Krylon right off. I've come to the conclusion that 400 grit sand paper may not be coarse enough to prepare the metal surface for paint to grip, so maybe in the future I will try some 300 grit; the paint fills the sanding marks very well.

Please let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions from your experience.

Also, I am getting ready to bed the scope base to this action this weekend, and probably will be using Kiwi shoe polish for the receiver. Any suggestions on what to use to clean the shoe polish off after bedding so as not to remove any paint would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

On a side note, while the gun came out looking on the light side in the photos, that was due to flash. The finished product is close to Magpul Dark Earth, but on the lighter shade. I was worried it might be too light but I like it.

 

[John Roache]

Re: New Krylon job

Looks good, what about the stock?

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

I haven't saved up enough money for the stock yet... But when I do get it, I will paint it as well.

Anyone want to donate a factory tupperware (not hogue) for short action?

FedEx just dropped off the Krylon Sand, Khaki, Black, Olive, and Brown, and another Matte Clear paints... Excited to get the rest of the parts painted, but the other colors will be used for the stock when I have one.

 

[nashlaw]

Re: New Krylon job

Pete,

When I apply bake-on Teflon/Moly, I hit it hard with the 100 grit. It is still not as course a aluminum oxide, but it gives the finish a good base to grab. As a note, it finishes out nice and smooth when the finish goes on.

david

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

Thanks nashlaw for the suggestion! I wish I had a blasting cabinet I can use here, otherwise I would have to send it out to get blasted and that would take too long and cost more.

The Krylon finish was actually pretty smooth and didn't feel any more coarse than my friend's rifle finished with Duracoat, so I am happy with it, just will have to sand it with a coarser paper...

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

Hello all,

For Krylon on metal surfaces, after sanding, have any of you spray primer on it first before spraying with color? I didn't and even after several coats, I find that the paint on some of the corners and rubbing surfaces comes off way too easy, while the flat surfaces are just fine. Is this something I will just have to live with if using Krylon, or is there a way to remedy this? FYI, I let the paint cure for at least a week before putting things back together.

Thanks.

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

Finished barreled action:

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

Sprayed some break-free to grease some parts of the painted surface today and it started eating away the paint... I think I'll try the Aluma-hyde II after I stripped the paint off. I'll use the Krylon for the stock when I get it, but for the metal I will stay with either Epoxy-base paints or Duracoat.

 

[sobrbiker883]

Re: New Krylon job

Yesterday morning you painted the barreled action and today you applied CLP? A little soon in my opinion.

When I paint a rifle that I'd like to stay finished for longer than a minute, I let them cure for a week in a hot garage.

I usually don't use krylon, I'm an AHII guy myself, and have had great luck with it. I warm my parts after degreasing in the sun, then spray, then hang to cure for 6-8 hours in the AZ sun, then hang in the garage for a week. Pain in the ass, but Butch's Bore Shine hasn't eroded much of the paint on the muzzle, I clp or grease the bolt all the time, and the finish has only dented where empties smack behind the ejection port.
......and you can drive an SUV on it

 

[TOP PREDATOR]

Re: New Krylon job

the alumahide or duracoat is the way to go as far as durability goes. don't get me wrong, i like my krylon, but it doesn't hold up to wear, and you'll always be touching up if you want it to look tidy.

i've never sanded my metal before spraying krylon, or put primer on it, just wiped it with acetone, masked and sprayed. i figured if i want the krylon off, it'd be easier to wipe off with no "damage" to the metal or original finish. but i do know that either way, it will come off in the "high traffic" areas.

you did do a nice job though.

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

The break-free was used on the bottom metal which I painted last Saturday. I painted the barreled action a couple days after but haven't tried to grease it yet. I wanted to try it on the "cured" parts first and am glad I did.

I think the "cleaner" part of the CLP damaged the finish.

I still plan on using Krylon for the stock because I can play with the camo designs a lot more, and take it off easy if I don't like it. I just have to be careful when I clean the rifle to make sure the solvent don't touch the stock. I've got some AH2 on order so will be stripping the Krylon off the barreled action when I get it and reapply with AH2. I wonder if applying the AH2 clear coat over the Krylon will make it stronger? I've read here of people doing that, or using Duracoat clear over Krylon.

Top Predator, you're right about the high traffic areas and Krylon not paying well together. Some people like the look of a well "used" rifle, but I'm just not too comfortable with flaking chips of paint getting into places they shouldn't.

 

[sobrbiker883]

Re: New Krylon job

Best bet would be a base coat of AHII or Duracoat in a neutral color basic to your intended camo patterns. Once that is cured you can krylon over the top of it.
I wouldn't put good over bad...

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

Great advice sobrbiker883! I'll give that a try, otherwise all those cans of Krylon I bought would have no use other than the stock.

 

[kahai808]

Re: New Krylon job

nice, like to see it on the stock

 

[pklin1297]

Re: New Krylon job

so would I.

 

[Only10x]

Re: New Krylon job

if its a safe queen w/light use itll be alright. krylon as is will slowly get eaten by the oils/sweat of your hands and look like a regret with time.

* from experience

 

[JeffP40]

Re: New Krylon job

A couple of years ago, I used Krylon Patio furniture paint on my daughters' rifle. I used primer first, kept it as clean as I could, and it turned out nice. It is a good beaded-look finish, and looks not at all out of place. It is not very durable, but good anough for regular use. I didn't use any on the wood, leaving it for an oil finish. Good combination. I have a rifle that I am trying to make into a long-range rig, and it will get the full treatment. I will try to do some kind of camo on the glass stock, and probably something like Khaki on the metal. Depending on the finances this winter, I may use Dura-coat on the metal and stick with Krylon on the stock.