New to reloading

Beilryan

Private
Minuteman
Jan 12, 2020
5
1
Hey everyone-I started reloading a few months ago, I sought out some “mentors” who showed me the ropes a bit and sent me on my way.

I have had zero issues thus far with my .270, slowly working my way up to max charges of RE19. I am using Fed 210 primers, and 150gr Nosler partitions as well as 140gr Nosler BT.

upon inspecting my brass I felt like I noticed the primers seem to be expanding to fill the primer pocket Almost to the point of being flush with the case. Is this a sign my pressures are too high? Too soft of primers? Primer pockets not tight enough?

thanks in advance for any help! The brass cases are the ones in question, I included a nickel plated case from a federal premium factory loaded 150gr partition I shot at the range at the same time as my partitions.
 

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IMO (for what its worth)...

In your first picture the primer looks "almost kinda in the process of flattening", most of the other pics look fine to me. I wouldn't be worried about those just based on what the brass looks like. That said, any other pressure signs? Sticky/heavy bolt lift? If you're chronographing your rounds, what is the MV?
 
Like Mercer said the first one looks to be flattening.
I have to ask what is the reason you are comparing a Winchester to a Federal case?
I ask this because if you are using the same load in Winchester and Federal brass you should know the Federal will have higher pressure generally. They have a tendency to make very thick brass cases which lowers your internal volume thus raising pressure.
I don't know if you are loading mixed brass or if this is comparing factory to handloaded so I could be off.
It would be a little more helpful to see a handloaded Federal next to a shot handloaded Federal to see intial primer depth on the handload.
I don't think it is a soft primer since there doesn't seem to be any cratering. I also don't feel like it's actually sliding back since that too would typically show cratering. The primer would flow by your firing pin before the whole thing slid back, unless you have a zero tolerance fit between firing pin and bolt opening for firing pin.
 
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IMO (for what its worth)...

In your first picture the primer looks "almost kinda in the process of flattening", most of the other pics look fine to me. I wouldn't be worried about those just based on what the brass looks like. That said, any other pressure signs? Sticky/heavy bolt lift? If you're chronographing your rounds, what is the MV?

thanks for the response! I unfortunately don’t have access to a chrono yet but I hope to before too much longer. I heard about a fellow shooter at my local range that has one...I have not noticed any sticky bolt lift but have to be honest i have never Felt a “sticky” bolt lift, I just don’t think I have noticed any changes
 
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thanks for the response! I unfortunately don’t have access to a chrono yet but I hope to before too much longer. I heard about a fellow shooter at my local range that has one...I have not noticed any sticky bolt lift but have to be honest i have never Felt a “sticky” bolt lift, I just don’t think I have noticed any changes
Im pretty sure you would notice. There's varied degrees of sticky bolt but if you are getting in to a trouble area you'll pretty much ask yourself what the hell. It'll be noticably harder to open than it was to close.
Sticky bolt will be accompanied with an ejector swipe if you have the ejector installed in the bolt.
 
Like Mercer said the first one looks to be flattening.
I have to ask what is the reason you are comparing a Winchester to a Federal case?
I ask this because if you are using the same load in Winchester and Federal brass you should know the Federal will have higher pressure generally. They have a tendency to make very thick brass cases which lowers your internal volume thus raising pressure.
I don't know if you are loading mixed brass or if this is comparing factory to handloaded so I could be off.
It would be a little more helpful to see a handloaded Federal next to a shot handloaded Federal to see intial primer depth on the handload.
I don't think it is a soft primer since there doesn't seem to be any cratering. I also don't feel like it's actually sliding back since that too would typically show cratering. The primer would flow by your firing pin before the whole thing slid back, unless you have a zero tolerance fit between firing pin and bolt opening for firing pin.

The flattening was my concern as well, sorry for the differences in brass brand-I have shot both federal and winchester, so reload both-had no idea about the differences but I am glad to know that thanks for the tidbit! Trying to learn all I can.
Here is a pic of two pieces of federal premium 150gr Nosler partition (nickel plated) and two hand loads of mine that I fired today (I felt they looked the “flattest” of the bunch)
 

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Im pretty sure you would notice. There's varied degrees of sticky bolt but if you are getting in to a trouble area you'll pretty much ask yourself what the hell. It'll be noticably harder to open than it was to close.
Sticky bolt will be accompanied with an ejector swipe if you have the ejector installed in the bolt.
Good to know! I expected that, and do seem to recall seeing some videos of dudes trying to hammer a bolt up with their fist...the rifle is a stock Tikka Lite T3X in 270 win, if that helps! Only once did I feel like I noticed the slightest swipe on a brass face, a shiny circle, and only on a single piece which was a few weeks ago
 
Here are 9 that I loaded, I am trying to be more consistent with my primer seating depth these days (I loaded these a month ago or so, as I have a little 3 month old baby girl so my free time is scarce)
 

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Congrats on the rugrat. I have couple a little farther along.
I would advise trying to stay with same headstamp brass. We're these purchased or picked up range brass?
From the pics I don't feel they are coming out of the brass. The center left Federal brass primer in the 4 pack is flattened slightly. You can see the edge where the others still are round but that one has a sharper corner. Federal primers are on the soft side. I'd say you are within .4 grains of having more noticeable pressure issues like swipes and bolt lift.

If you see a guy hammering his bolt he either loaded a stupid load or was finding out why you don't neck size only.

If this is range brass that you are repurposing I would go back down .2 and play from there lower.

If you were to weigh the Federal against the Winchester I'd bet there's about a 2-3 grain difference in weight with Federal weighing higher. Weight is a good indicator of internal volume. I wouldn't advise weight sorting but I would advise weighing one brand against another before loading. I've found little to no internal volume difference in cases within 1 grain of each other but more than that and you'll see pressure difference. If you are right at pressure then .4 grains matters but if you are at a "safe" load it's not that much difference. Safe being around .3+ under max pressure.
 
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It's a pretty good practice to know about where your internal volume is any time you change brass or even lot to lot of the same brand. Some guys will water weigh every piece. I only water weigh about 5 pieces and have an average I'm confident in.
To expand on my weight sort comment, I don't weight sort premium brass. I would advise weight sorting non-premium brass to within 1 grain of weight. Inside of 1 grain I don't find a significant internal volume spread since most of the weight difference is in things like the rim and head area which doesn't affect internal volume.
 
thanks for the response! I unfortunately don’t have access to a chrono yet but I hope to before too much longer. I heard about a fellow shooter at my local range that has one...I have not noticed any sticky bolt lift but have to be honest i have never Felt a “sticky” bolt lift, I just don’t think I have noticed any changes

You'll know it when it happens :)

Congrats on the little one!!! If you're like me it'll be the best thing you've ever done, which is why I did it two more times :D