New, what am I doing wrong already

bdubb

...
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 28, 2009
418
30
TX
So let me start off by saying I don't know what I am doing yet with reloading. I have read the stickies on here multiple times and started buying tools and equipment and have also been reading reloading manuals and some of Litz's books. Aside from using a decapping die I haven't worked the press until this evening when I decided to do a test die setup with a dummy round. I used a brand new, untouched, Lapua 260 rem case and a Berger 6.5 140 hybrid inside of a bullet seating die from Whidden. (I got the bushing sizer die and seater die in 6.5) I then read and re-read the Whidden instructions for the seater die and ended up with a case shoulder that's now compressed back and a case neck that looks crimped.

Is the seater die from Whidden only set up to work with neck turned brass? A new piece of brass from the box measures .291" in OD, but I do not have a tubing micrometer to check neck thickness. Just wondering if I botched the setup of the die and ran the case too deep into it, or if the die is reamed to the point that I'll have to turn all the necks before seating when it comes time to load. Trying to take some baby steps and learn what I can before I actually get to the point of hand loading sometime early 2014 when the rifle arrives.
 

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The case neck with the bullet seated, shown in the photos above, measures .2955" in OD.

I'm guessing from this that the die may be reamed to .2955(+.0000/-.0005) or thereabout and I'll need to see that I have loaded brass with necks at .294?
 
Looks like the die was screwed in to far to the press I would back off half a turn and try one. This happens to me alot on 223 if I follow the instructions and only back out 1/4 to 1/2 from shoulder contact

Plus 1000!!!
die is turned in too much and applying too much crimp...you probably mixed the instructions for setting up the sizer die with the seater die instructions. There should be a considerable gap between the top of the shell holder and the bottom of the seater die. Where as with the sizer die there isn't much gap.
Before you seat you bullets and with cases all trimmed to the SAME length put a case in the shell holder and raise the ram. Now install the seating die and turn it down until you feel it contact the case mouth then back it out a half turn. Hold the die and finger tighten the lock ring til it barely touches the top of the press. Remove the case and place a few washers on top of the shell holder and raise the ram until the washers contact to bottom of the die and tighten the lock ring(takes out the thread slop)
 
I have shell holders from different manufacturors and have to be very careful which one I place in my ram as it makes a big difference how far the case goes into the die. Since you are just starting out I doubt this is your problem, but something to watch out for in the future.
 
First of all. Don't overthink it. As you are new. It's not that complicated. As stated make sure your case necks are not being crimped by your die. That will almost always lead to over pressure with some load charges. Mostly hot. Your shooting Lapua, so the first three firings at least will give you similar neck tension if you use the same die. In my .308, I still use a lee fl die and it works just fine with lapua brass. I wouldn't go balls to the wall just yet on details. You did right by asking. And I assume that the die setup is the culprit again as previously stated. Your on the right track. But experience behind the bench will help you too. Once you really dive into it, I warn you... Get ready. Bc it's addicting but fun as hell. Nothing like popping deer and steel with bullets you made. Keep asking questions. You'll get it. Good luck
 
I have shell holders from different manufacturors and have to be very careful which one I place in my ram as it makes a big difference how far the case goes into the die. Since you are just starting out I doubt this is your problem, but something to watch out for in the future.


Also agree with this totally. A redding shell holder is a lot deeper than say a hornady. It will really screw you up. So make sure once you get it right, keep that same shell holder in your box with that particular die.
 
Thanks everyone. I'll adjust the die again this evening and see if I can get a better result without wasting another case.

Trying to recall the instructions from last night, but this is along the lines of what I did:
- Raise the ram and install the seater until the sleeve just barely touches the shell holder
- Lower the ram and turn the seater down 2 turns (instructions said 1-2)
- Raise the ram and check for .125"-.250" engagement of the sleeve
- Back off the threaded spindle and raise it 1"
- Raise the ram again with a case and bullet in the shellholder
- Lower the threaded spindle down until it just touches the bullet and stops.
- Lower the ram and make a slight adjust to the spindle and lock it in place. (don't remember if it was a 1/4 turn on the spindle or what)
- Raised the ram again to seat the bullet as instructed and ended up with the photos above


I sent an e-mail to Whidden last night as well so I'm sure I'll hear from them soon. I was sure it was something simple that I messed up by not having a complete grasp of the process yet, but like posted above, the more I thought the more reasons I created in my head.
 
Also agree with this totally. A redding shell holder is a lot deeper than say a hornady. It will really screw you up. So make sure once you get it right, keep that same shell holder in your box with that particular die.

+1Excellant advice! Shell holders are cheap and every die set should have one dedicated to that set.
 
ok so this die has a sliding sleeve like the Forsters. From everything I have read about die's like that you never want to fully compress the sleeve. The way Forster has you set up the die is to raise the ram, screw the die down to 100% compress the sleeve then back it out about 1 turn.

The center "spindle" is your rough adjustment for your bullet seating depth. You should start with that out pretty far and work it in a little at a time until you get where you need to be.

I will agree with everybody else that your die is turned down way to far.
 
One other thing to look if you determine the die is set properly..i read numerous posts regarding lapua .260 brass and its thick case wall at the neck. Looking at your pics, the brass looks as if it has already had the neck resized. If it is indeed virgin, and you have not touched the neck, then maybe the whidden seating dies have a tighter neck area which is catching your thick brass. Question...how hard to you have to push to seat the bullet? It should only require moderate pressure. Also, does the round stick at all on the downstroke of the ram, after seating the bullet?
 
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Scout, it was virgin brass and that marking on the neck is what made me wonder about the neck size of the seater die. There was a little pressure that peaked some and then dropped off to a smooth movement. Then lowering the ram it was catching a little before it broke loose to move freely. This is the only piece of brass I have ever put through the die so I'll play with it a bit more this evening if I have time, but I hope to hear back from Whidden sometime about the ID of their necks on the seater die.



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Just got a response back from Whidden (very quick response) and they are sending a new sleeve to see if there is an issue between the sleeve I received with the die. Going to wait until it arrives in the mail and check some dimensions where I can and run a few cases through the new sleeve. Very happy in how effortlessly Whidden is handling the possible issue, I just hope it doesn't come down to my inexperience as being the sole issue.
 
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