I am new to AR's and have been reading a lot of posts about "running them wet", etc. My question is just how much lube do you use on the bolt and carrier group? I have a S&W MP-15 and have disassembled and cleaned. I put a light coating of Break Free CLP on the carrier group. Is this OK?
- Thread starter tomcat mv
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Re: newbie AR lube ?
also is there any reason not to use remoil it's got a teflon and i have heard its not good for barrels? can anybody shed some light on this?
also is there any reason not to use remoil it's got a teflon and i have heard its not good for barrels? can anybody shed some light on this?
Re: newbie AR lube ?
your barrel and chamber should be dry!
I use Mobil 1 on everything I own.
I put a lot on the BCG, but not so much that it would drip off.
your barrel and chamber should be dry!
I use Mobil 1 on everything I own.
I put a lot on the BCG, but not so much that it would drip off.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Running an AR "wet" means you douse the shit out of it. We're not talking about a light film- it's a large amount so that everything is coated and visible.
If you have a low round count, like under 150rds or so, you don't have to soak them. If you shoot more than that, or you will be shooting for and extended period of time, you should be using a copious amount of lube.
Part of the reason why you need to run a lot of lube is due to the heat on the bolt carrier group and the friction, but also related to the lube you use. CLP is not a very good lubricant, and it burns off as you shoot. Having a lot makes sure you have enough to last the whole morning or whole afternoon. If you do training courses, you'll have to reapply lube regularly throughout the day if you don't have a good lubricant.
RemOil is even worse for ARs. The teflon doesn't really do much. The heat burns off the RemOil pretty quickly, which makes it very poor for high-heat applications like the AR.
If I am only shooting a little, I will use a couple drops of on the bolt and other areas. The key is to lube everywhere it is shiny on the BCG, including the bolt itself and the cam pin. If it's a whole day of shooting, it's a big squeeze of it. Don't be afraid to get lube sprayed on you for the first couple shots.
When I ran substandard lubricants, I had to use a lot of lube and reapply often. Using a high quality lube makes a huge difference. I use Slip2000 EWL, which has been substantially better than anything I've used before. The EWL is a polymer-based lube, so it won't burn off like a petroleum-based lube would.
You can also use FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil, like 5w30. I prefer to use Slip2000 as it smells better and isn't as messy, but synthetic motor oil works well. Just be sure you do NOT use regular or synthetic-blend oil. No petroleum products.
Running an AR "wet" means you douse the shit out of it. We're not talking about a light film- it's a large amount so that everything is coated and visible.
If you have a low round count, like under 150rds or so, you don't have to soak them. If you shoot more than that, or you will be shooting for and extended period of time, you should be using a copious amount of lube.
Part of the reason why you need to run a lot of lube is due to the heat on the bolt carrier group and the friction, but also related to the lube you use. CLP is not a very good lubricant, and it burns off as you shoot. Having a lot makes sure you have enough to last the whole morning or whole afternoon. If you do training courses, you'll have to reapply lube regularly throughout the day if you don't have a good lubricant.
RemOil is even worse for ARs. The teflon doesn't really do much. The heat burns off the RemOil pretty quickly, which makes it very poor for high-heat applications like the AR.
If I am only shooting a little, I will use a couple drops of on the bolt and other areas. The key is to lube everywhere it is shiny on the BCG, including the bolt itself and the cam pin. If it's a whole day of shooting, it's a big squeeze of it. Don't be afraid to get lube sprayed on you for the first couple shots.
When I ran substandard lubricants, I had to use a lot of lube and reapply often. Using a high quality lube makes a huge difference. I use Slip2000 EWL, which has been substantially better than anything I've used before. The EWL is a polymer-based lube, so it won't burn off like a petroleum-based lube would.
You can also use FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil, like 5w30. I prefer to use Slip2000 as it smells better and isn't as messy, but synthetic motor oil works well. Just be sure you do NOT use regular or synthetic-blend oil. No petroleum products.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Thanks VERY much for the info. I think I'll run down to the local auto parts and pick up some Mobil 1 as there is no place close to me to get the stuff you recommend. Just curious, have you ever used Blue Wonder Disotec or Gunslick anhydrous graphite lubes? I've been using it for awhile in my 1911 and other auto pistols and it seems to work well but they obviously don't run as hot as an AR.
Thanks VERY much for the info. I think I'll run down to the local auto parts and pick up some Mobil 1 as there is no place close to me to get the stuff you recommend. Just curious, have you ever used Blue Wonder Disotec or Gunslick anhydrous graphite lubes? I've been using it for awhile in my 1911 and other auto pistols and it seems to work well but they obviously don't run as hot as an AR.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Don't use lubricants that have foreign components like graphite. That is a bad idea and will cause more friction. The graphite will get hot and burn. The Disotec is polymer-based, which is nice, but I can use that whole tube in about 3 uses.
If you want good lube, just go here and order some Slip2000 Extreme Weapons Lube (EWL) online. There is a laundry list of high end gun experts who use this stuff.
http://slip2000.com/
Don't use lubricants that have foreign components like graphite. That is a bad idea and will cause more friction. The graphite will get hot and burn. The Disotec is polymer-based, which is nice, but I can use that whole tube in about 3 uses.
If you want good lube, just go here and order some Slip2000 Extreme Weapons Lube (EWL) online. There is a laundry list of high end gun experts who use this stuff.
http://slip2000.com/
Re: newbie AR lube ?
When you run an AR really wet, lube drips & get splashed down onto the ammo in your mag. Then you have oil in the chamber and bore. Not good.
Get a good thick film on the parts that actually move (bolt, cam pin). Don't worry too much about the bolt carrier. Very little of it actually makes contact with the upper reciever. Put a film on it and be done with it. The bolt carrier will not get hot and a decent film will persist for quite some time.
When you run an AR really wet, lube drips & get splashed down onto the ammo in your mag. Then you have oil in the chamber and bore. Not good.
Get a good thick film on the parts that actually move (bolt, cam pin). Don't worry too much about the bolt carrier. Very little of it actually makes contact with the upper reciever. Put a film on it and be done with it. The bolt carrier will not get hot and a decent film will persist for quite some time.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
The guys above have got it right. Run it as wet as you can if you are shooting several hundred rounds. As stated, the barrel should be dry but the BCG group and the areas on the upper where the BCG group touches when it cycles should all be lubed. CLP is not the best as it does burn off....if you just shoot a few hundred rounds you will be ok but more than that and you will be re-lubing.
SlipEWL, Mobil One or FP-10 all work great. You cannot overlube your BCG so dont think you have too much on there. Most AR's that I have seen fail in training were caused by a dry gun...run it wet and you will be a happy camper.
Now, go shoot the crap out of your rig.
The guys above have got it right. Run it as wet as you can if you are shooting several hundred rounds. As stated, the barrel should be dry but the BCG group and the areas on the upper where the BCG group touches when it cycles should all be lubed. CLP is not the best as it does burn off....if you just shoot a few hundred rounds you will be ok but more than that and you will be re-lubing.
SlipEWL, Mobil One or FP-10 all work great. You cannot overlube your BCG so dont think you have too much on there. Most AR's that I have seen fail in training were caused by a dry gun...run it wet and you will be a happy camper.
Now, go shoot the crap out of your rig.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
You sure as hell don't want to be breathing burning Teflon fumes, either.
Graphite will promote galvanic corrosion.
You sure as hell don't want to be breathing burning Teflon fumes, either.
Graphite will promote galvanic corrosion.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you run an AR really wet, lube drips & get splashed down onto the ammo in your mag. Then you have oil in the chamber and bore. Not good.
</div></div>
Why is that not good? Lube will displace when it needs to. It won't cause a chamber or barrel to crack open.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Get a good thick film on the parts that actually move (bolt, cam pin). Don't worry too much about the bolt carrier. Very little of it actually makes contact with the upper reciever. Put a film on it and be done with it. <span style="font-weight: bold">The bolt carrier will not get hot</span> and a decent film will persist for quite some time.</div></div>
Um, WHAT? The BCG will get VERY hot. Go shoot about 2 or 3 mags out of a relatively dry gun, and then spit on the receiver and watch that saliva sizzle. The reason why you need lube is BECAUSE of the heat. Heat causes friction. Lube reduces friction.
Very little surface area of the bolt actually contacts the receiver, but the 1:00, 4:00, 8:00 and 11:00 positions, where you see it shiny, are where you will have contact with the upper receiver. These need to be lubricated.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SteelShot11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The guys above have got it right. Run it as wet as you can if you are shooting several hundred rounds. As stated, the barrel should be dry but the BCG group and the areas on the upper where the BCG group touches when it cycles should all be lubed. CLP is not the best as it does burn off....if you just shoot a few hundred rounds you will be ok but more than that and you will be re-lubing.
SlipEWL, Mobil One or FP-10 all work great. You cannot overlube your BCG so dont think you have too much on there. Most AR's that I have seen fail in training were caused by a dry gun...run it wet and you will be a happy camper.
Now, go shoot the crap out of your rig.</div></div>
Amen.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you run an AR really wet, lube drips & get splashed down onto the ammo in your mag. Then you have oil in the chamber and bore. Not good.
</div></div>
Why is that not good? Lube will displace when it needs to. It won't cause a chamber or barrel to crack open.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Get a good thick film on the parts that actually move (bolt, cam pin). Don't worry too much about the bolt carrier. Very little of it actually makes contact with the upper reciever. Put a film on it and be done with it. <span style="font-weight: bold">The bolt carrier will not get hot</span> and a decent film will persist for quite some time.</div></div>
Um, WHAT? The BCG will get VERY hot. Go shoot about 2 or 3 mags out of a relatively dry gun, and then spit on the receiver and watch that saliva sizzle. The reason why you need lube is BECAUSE of the heat. Heat causes friction. Lube reduces friction.
Very little surface area of the bolt actually contacts the receiver, but the 1:00, 4:00, 8:00 and 11:00 positions, where you see it shiny, are where you will have contact with the upper receiver. These need to be lubricated.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SteelShot11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The guys above have got it right. Run it as wet as you can if you are shooting several hundred rounds. As stated, the barrel should be dry but the BCG group and the areas on the upper where the BCG group touches when it cycles should all be lubed. CLP is not the best as it does burn off....if you just shoot a few hundred rounds you will be ok but more than that and you will be re-lubing.
SlipEWL, Mobil One or FP-10 all work great. You cannot overlube your BCG so dont think you have too much on there. Most AR's that I have seen fail in training were caused by a dry gun...run it wet and you will be a happy camper.
Now, go shoot the crap out of your rig.</div></div>
Amen.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
I've heard a lot of great things about Frog Lube. Anyone have any input/experience with it as a weapon lubricant?
I've heard a lot of great things about Frog Lube. Anyone have any input/experience with it as a weapon lubricant?
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Thanks for the info USACS, just ordered a bottle for my GAP-10!
Thanks for the info USACS, just ordered a bottle for my GAP-10!
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you run an AR really wet, lube drips & get splashed down onto the ammo in your mag. Then you have oil in the chamber and bore. Not good.
</div></div>
Why is that not good? Lube will displace when it needs to. It won't cause a chamber or barrel to crack open.
</div></div>
If you want to throw multiple mag dumps down range at people sized targets 25 yards away, go ahead. No problem. But if you are looking for any kind of accuracy out of your rig, you don't want lube in your chamber or more importantly in your bore.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you run an AR really wet, lube drips & get splashed down onto the ammo in your mag. Then you have oil in the chamber and bore. Not good.
</div></div>
Why is that not good? Lube will displace when it needs to. It won't cause a chamber or barrel to crack open.
</div></div>
If you want to throw multiple mag dumps down range at people sized targets 25 yards away, go ahead. No problem. But if you are looking for any kind of accuracy out of your rig, you don't want lube in your chamber or more importantly in your bore.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Oil in the chamber can cause dangerously high pressure or even a kaboom.
Oil in the chamber can cause dangerously high pressure or even a kaboom.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
For those of you who drench your BCG in Mobil1, let me know how that works out for you when the wind starts blowing, turning your BCG and rifle into a dust/dirt magnet. If you need to use lubricant, a light coating of MPro-7 will suffice and it doesn't attract dust, dirt, or leave an oily residue on your firearm.
Here's another solution. Send your firearms or internals to Robar Coatings and have them coated with NP3 or NP3+ and there will be no need to lube anything. The POF internals are NP3 coated and they never need to be lubed.
http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm
For those of you who drench your BCG in Mobil1, let me know how that works out for you when the wind starts blowing, turning your BCG and rifle into a dust/dirt magnet. If you need to use lubricant, a light coating of MPro-7 will suffice and it doesn't attract dust, dirt, or leave an oily residue on your firearm.
Here's another solution. Send your firearms or internals to Robar Coatings and have them coated with NP3 or NP3+ and there will be no need to lube anything. The POF internals are NP3 coated and they never need to be lubed.
http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Have you ever heard of gun butter? I use it on my 1911 and like it better that traditional gun oils. Seems to me like it burns off though. I'll have to check out that slip2000EWL.
Have you ever heard of gun butter? I use it on my 1911 and like it better that traditional gun oils. Seems to me like it burns off though. I'll have to check out that slip2000EWL.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
I like Slip 2000 EWL for the bolt. There are others that work well. Rem Oil is too light for the bolt and will evaporate off quickly.
Wet is not dripping wet, just well lubed. A drop of oil in the carrier's holes to re-lube the gas rings after a shooting session is good to keep it running. You don't need to clean a quality AR all that often, and certainly not every time you shoot it.
A chemically cleaned barrel, i.e., "bone dry", is not a good way to leave it. Oil it well, then jag with a couple or so patches to remove the excess. This helps to keep copper fouling to a minimum. Excessively cleaning the barrel is a good way to ruin it. I won't even pull a copper brush back through the barrel; one way only an then remove. Some will differ on this, but here is a good guide from a respected AR barrel maker:
http://www.noveskerifleworks.com/barrel_break-in.pdf
I like Slip 2000 EWL for the bolt. There are others that work well. Rem Oil is too light for the bolt and will evaporate off quickly.
Wet is not dripping wet, just well lubed. A drop of oil in the carrier's holes to re-lube the gas rings after a shooting session is good to keep it running. You don't need to clean a quality AR all that often, and certainly not every time you shoot it.
A chemically cleaned barrel, i.e., "bone dry", is not a good way to leave it. Oil it well, then jag with a couple or so patches to remove the excess. This helps to keep copper fouling to a minimum. Excessively cleaning the barrel is a good way to ruin it. I won't even pull a copper brush back through the barrel; one way only an then remove. Some will differ on this, but here is a good guide from a respected AR barrel maker:
http://www.noveskerifleworks.com/barrel_break-in.pdf
Re: newbie AR lube Frog Lube
Anyone know if they carry this stuff in retail stores or do I need to buy it off of the 'net after an extensive google search?
Haven't heard anything much about the stuff other than about 3 comments that it supposedly works very well in AR's.
Anyone know more?
Anyone know if they carry this stuff in retail stores or do I need to buy it off of the 'net after an extensive google search?
Haven't heard anything much about the stuff other than about 3 comments that it supposedly works very well in AR's.
Anyone know more?
Re: newbie AR lube Frog Lube
amazes me how the USMC still pushes CLP to the troops... want to try that 2000 stuff...
amazes me how the USMC still pushes CLP to the troops... want to try that 2000 stuff...
Re: newbie AR lube Frog Lube
EWL or Mobil 1 won't let you down.
EWL or Mobil 1 won't let you down.
Re: newbie AR lube Frog Lube
I use slipewl2000 that came with my rifle andthat shit is amazing. Next I want to try this frog lube stuff if someone can vouch for it.
I also use clp on occasion but it definately leaves a residue behind so I'm pretty vigilant where I put it.
I use slipewl2000 that came with my rifle andthat shit is amazing. Next I want to try this frog lube stuff if someone can vouch for it.
I also use clp on occasion but it definately leaves a residue behind so I'm pretty vigilant where I put it.
Re: newbie AR lube Frog Lube
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SteelShot11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use slipewl2000 that came with my rifle andthat shit is amazing. Next I want to try this frog lube stuff if someone can vouch for it.
I also use clp on occasion but it definately leaves a residue behind so I'm pretty vigilant where I put it. </div></div>
As hard has you try, Slipewl2000 will not burn off. CLP Burns off after 100 rounds for me! I think CLP is great for storing after you shoot. But nothing that I have found out performs Slip EWL..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SteelShot11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use slipewl2000 that came with my rifle andthat shit is amazing. Next I want to try this frog lube stuff if someone can vouch for it.
I also use clp on occasion but it definately leaves a residue behind so I'm pretty vigilant where I put it. </div></div>
As hard has you try, Slipewl2000 will not burn off. CLP Burns off after 100 rounds for me! I think CLP is great for storing after you shoot. But nothing that I have found out performs Slip EWL..
Re: Frog or Slipstream
Ok, after doing some research I found a company called Crusader Weaponry that has made a lube called Slipstream which is supposed to be the cats ass of lube...even better in performance tests that SlipEWL2000 which I have a hard time beleiving. So, I ordered a bottle and will see how it does. Just look around on Google, they have gotten some really high profile press for their lube products....they make grease as well.
http://crusaderweaponry.com/shop
Ok, after doing some research I found a company called Crusader Weaponry that has made a lube called Slipstream which is supposed to be the cats ass of lube...even better in performance tests that SlipEWL2000 which I have a hard time beleiving. So, I ordered a bottle and will see how it does. Just look around on Google, they have gotten some really high profile press for their lube products....they make grease as well.
http://crusaderweaponry.com/shop
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KillShot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For those of you who drench your BCG in Mobil1, let me know how that works out for you when the wind starts blowing, turning your BCG and rifle into a dust/dirt magnet. If you need to use lubricant, a light coating of MPro-7 will suffice and it doesn't attract dust, dirt, or leave an oily residue on your firearm.
Here's another solution. Send your firearms or internals to Robar Coatings and have them coated with NP3 or NP3+ and there will be no need to lube anything. The POF internals are NP3 coated and they never need to be lubed.
http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm </div></div>
While the coatings are slick, you should lube.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KillShot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For those of you who drench your BCG in Mobil1, let me know how that works out for you when the wind starts blowing, turning your BCG and rifle into a dust/dirt magnet. If you need to use lubricant, a light coating of MPro-7 will suffice and it doesn't attract dust, dirt, or leave an oily residue on your firearm.
Here's another solution. Send your firearms or internals to Robar Coatings and have them coated with NP3 or NP3+ and there will be no need to lube anything. The POF internals are NP3 coated and they never need to be lubed.
http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm </div></div>
While the coatings are slick, you should lube.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you want to throw multiple mag dumps down range at people sized targets 25 yards away, go ahead. No problem. But if you are looking for any kind of accuracy out of your rig, you don't want lube in your chamber or more importantly in your bore.</div></div>
A small amount of lube is not going to affect anything as long as you don't have any major obstruction. I can see how this could be possible if you have a copious amount of lube in your bore or chamber, but people should not be squeezing the bottle and hosing down the inside of the barrel or chamber. A small bit of lubricant left over from a patch or that has sprayed in there from operation would not cause a problem. I've never seen anything to show me otherwise. I think that you'd have to define how much lube would be needed, and define which lubes apply since some are more viscous than others.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Solid_Squirrel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oil in the chamber can cause dangerously high pressure or even a kaboom.</div></div>
I can see this with grease or a very thick lube with a very copious amount of lube in the chamber. However, a small amount of lube is bound to get into the chamber through normal operation, and that is not a problem. Again, as long as people are not hosing down the chamber immediately prior to loading a round, it'll be fine. That, and as long as people are not using something thick like grease or unsalted butter.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you want to throw multiple mag dumps down range at people sized targets 25 yards away, go ahead. No problem. But if you are looking for any kind of accuracy out of your rig, you don't want lube in your chamber or more importantly in your bore.</div></div>
A small amount of lube is not going to affect anything as long as you don't have any major obstruction. I can see how this could be possible if you have a copious amount of lube in your bore or chamber, but people should not be squeezing the bottle and hosing down the inside of the barrel or chamber. A small bit of lubricant left over from a patch or that has sprayed in there from operation would not cause a problem. I've never seen anything to show me otherwise. I think that you'd have to define how much lube would be needed, and define which lubes apply since some are more viscous than others.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Solid_Squirrel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oil in the chamber can cause dangerously high pressure or even a kaboom.</div></div>
I can see this with grease or a very thick lube with a very copious amount of lube in the chamber. However, a small amount of lube is bound to get into the chamber through normal operation, and that is not a problem. Again, as long as people are not hosing down the chamber immediately prior to loading a round, it'll be fine. That, and as long as people are not using something thick like grease or unsalted butter.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
I have used synthetic 10-30 for almost 3 years now. It has proven the best I have found over and over.
That said, my shooting buddy tried froglube last year and was hooked instantly. He has been trying to get me to use it for some time but I just said no. I finally broke down last night and ordered some to try. If it works half as good as I am told I should be impressed.
I have used synthetic 10-30 for almost 3 years now. It has proven the best I have found over and over.
That said, my shooting buddy tried froglube last year and was hooked instantly. He has been trying to get me to use it for some time but I just said no. I finally broke down last night and ordered some to try. If it works half as good as I am told I should be impressed.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you want to throw multiple mag dumps down range at people sized targets 25 yards away, go ahead. No problem. But if you are looking for any kind of accuracy out of your rig, you don't want lube in your chamber or more importantly in your bore.</div></div>
A small amount of lube is not going to affect anything as long as you don't have any major obstruction. I can see how this could be possible if you have a copious amount of lube in your bore or chamber, but people should not be squeezing the bottle and hosing down the inside of the barrel or chamber. A small bit of lubricant left over from a patch or that has sprayed in there from operation would not cause a problem. I've never seen anything to show me otherwise. I think that you'd have to define how much lube would be needed, and define which lubes apply since some are more viscous than others.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Solid_Squirrel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oil in the chamber can cause dangerously high pressure or even a kaboom.</div></div>
I can see this with grease or a very thick lube with a very copious amount of lube in the chamber. However, a small amount of lube is bound to get into the chamber through normal operation, and that is not a problem. Again, as long as people are not hosing down the chamber immediately prior to loading a round, it'll be fine. That, and as long as people are not using something thick like grease or unsalted butter. </div></div>
You can argue this point all you want. The simple fact is that this site and most of the people on it are dedicated to and interested in long range precision -- not suppressive fire or room clearance. Oil in the bore and long range precision do not go hand in hand. Put enough lube on your bolt and carrier to make it function for the purpose intended and no more.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bowslngr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you want to throw multiple mag dumps down range at people sized targets 25 yards away, go ahead. No problem. But if you are looking for any kind of accuracy out of your rig, you don't want lube in your chamber or more importantly in your bore.</div></div>
A small amount of lube is not going to affect anything as long as you don't have any major obstruction. I can see how this could be possible if you have a copious amount of lube in your bore or chamber, but people should not be squeezing the bottle and hosing down the inside of the barrel or chamber. A small bit of lubricant left over from a patch or that has sprayed in there from operation would not cause a problem. I've never seen anything to show me otherwise. I think that you'd have to define how much lube would be needed, and define which lubes apply since some are more viscous than others.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Solid_Squirrel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oil in the chamber can cause dangerously high pressure or even a kaboom.</div></div>
I can see this with grease or a very thick lube with a very copious amount of lube in the chamber. However, a small amount of lube is bound to get into the chamber through normal operation, and that is not a problem. Again, as long as people are not hosing down the chamber immediately prior to loading a round, it'll be fine. That, and as long as people are not using something thick like grease or unsalted butter. </div></div>
You can argue this point all you want. The simple fact is that this site and most of the people on it are dedicated to and interested in long range precision -- not suppressive fire or room clearance. Oil in the bore and long range precision do not go hand in hand. Put enough lube on your bolt and carrier to make it function for the purpose intended and no more.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
It has been stated quite a few times already, but the two best lubricants for the action of the AR is SLIP 2000 EWL & Mobile 1 Full Synthetic.
They don't burn off, they stay put, and make cleaning a breeze.
As to how heavy to lube:
- Two drops in the gas key
- One drop on each of the bearing surfaces of the Bolt Carrier
- One drop on each of the bearing surfaces of the Bolt
- One drop on the cam pin
- One drop in the cam path on the Bolt Carrier
- One drop on the side of the bolt at the Extractor Pin
- One drop on the Ejector Plunger (Then operate plunger with a spent cartridge.)
- One drop on each lug of the bolt
- Lightly coat the surfaces of the hammer the contact the bolt carrier and the trigger.
- Ensure that there is a light coat of lube on the hammer & trigger pins.
Optional items:
- One drop in the buffer tube spread evenly.
(This will quiet down the action spring noise.)
- Coat the entire Bolt Carrier with lube to the point where it glistens.
(The purpose of this is not to reduce friction, it is to collect particulate matter that would other wise become deposited in the trigger group.)
- Coat the inside walls of the trigger group housing with grease.
(The purpose of this is to collect particulate matter that would otherwise become deposited in the trigger group.)
Hopefully this is useful to you and not just additional commentary…
It has been stated quite a few times already, but the two best lubricants for the action of the AR is SLIP 2000 EWL & Mobile 1 Full Synthetic.
They don't burn off, they stay put, and make cleaning a breeze.
As to how heavy to lube:
- Two drops in the gas key
- One drop on each of the bearing surfaces of the Bolt Carrier
- One drop on each of the bearing surfaces of the Bolt
- One drop on the cam pin
- One drop in the cam path on the Bolt Carrier
- One drop on the side of the bolt at the Extractor Pin
- One drop on the Ejector Plunger (Then operate plunger with a spent cartridge.)
- One drop on each lug of the bolt
- Lightly coat the surfaces of the hammer the contact the bolt carrier and the trigger.
- Ensure that there is a light coat of lube on the hammer & trigger pins.
Optional items:
- One drop in the buffer tube spread evenly.
(This will quiet down the action spring noise.)
- Coat the entire Bolt Carrier with lube to the point where it glistens.
(The purpose of this is not to reduce friction, it is to collect particulate matter that would other wise become deposited in the trigger group.)
- Coat the inside walls of the trigger group housing with grease.
(The purpose of this is to collect particulate matter that would otherwise become deposited in the trigger group.)
Hopefully this is useful to you and not just additional commentary…
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SteelShot11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great post Dr. Phil.....nice info </div></div>
agreed. terrific advice.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SteelShot11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great post Dr. Phil.....nice info </div></div>
agreed. terrific advice.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
wheel bearing grease. never burns off. always stays put.
wheel bearing grease. never burns off. always stays put.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thePerforator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wheel bearing grease. never burns off. always stays put. </div></div>
this is what i do, either that or grease with a couple drops of synthetic motor oil in different areas.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thePerforator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wheel bearing grease. never burns off. always stays put. </div></div>
this is what i do, either that or grease with a couple drops of synthetic motor oil in different areas.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BBJones</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KillShot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For those of you who drench your BCG in Mobil1, let me know how that works out for you when the wind starts blowing, turning your BCG and rifle into a dust/dirt magnet. If you need to use lubricant, a light coating of MPro-7 will suffice and it doesn't attract dust, dirt, or leave an oily residue on your firearm.
Here's another solution. Send your firearms or internals to Robar Coatings and have them coated with NP3 or NP3+ and there will be no need to lube anything. The POF internals are NP3 coated and they never need to be lubed.
http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm </div></div>
While the coatings are slick, you should lube.</div></div>
I use a very light coat of MPro-7 and that's all.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BBJones</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KillShot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For those of you who drench your BCG in Mobil1, let me know how that works out for you when the wind starts blowing, turning your BCG and rifle into a dust/dirt magnet. If you need to use lubricant, a light coating of MPro-7 will suffice and it doesn't attract dust, dirt, or leave an oily residue on your firearm.
Here's another solution. Send your firearms or internals to Robar Coatings and have them coated with NP3 or NP3+ and there will be no need to lube anything. The POF internals are NP3 coated and they never need to be lubed.
http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm </div></div>
While the coatings are slick, you should lube.</div></div>
I use a very light coat of MPro-7 and that's all.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
I received some Frog Lube to test and I must say it's pretty impressive stuff. Clean-up is a breeze. My rifle is used and abused and even on a heavy training day it continues to run.
I received some Frog Lube to test and I must say it's pretty impressive stuff. Clean-up is a breeze. My rifle is used and abused and even on a heavy training day it continues to run.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
+1 Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease. Like the energizer bunny...keeps running and running and...well, you get the point.
Hadn't let me down yet.
+1 Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease. Like the energizer bunny...keeps running and running and...well, you get the point.
Hadn't let me down yet.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CNC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">your barrel and chamber should be dry!
I use Mobil 1 on everything I own.
I put a lot on the BCG, but not so much that it would drip off. </div></div>
+1...Mobil 1. Although I'll soon switch to Royal Purple...track season is almost here and my track car (996 GT3) runs on Royal Purple.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CNC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">your barrel and chamber should be dry!
I use Mobil 1 on everything I own.
I put a lot on the BCG, but not so much that it would drip off. </div></div>
+1...Mobil 1. Although I'll soon switch to Royal Purple...track season is almost here and my track car (996 GT3) runs on Royal Purple.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
I have been using Mobil 1 for years, with no problems. Always dry the chamber and barrel before firing of you may get a supprise you don't ever want. Stay safe. MM
I have been using Mobil 1 for years, with no problems. Always dry the chamber and barrel before firing of you may get a supprise you don't ever want. Stay safe. MM
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tomf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great info Dr. Phil. Quick question, would white lithium grease be OK to use in the trigger housing?</div></div>
Sure...
The point of it is to stay in place in order to capture loose particulate matter.
What you absolutely don't want is a grease that is loose enough in viscosity that it runs down into the bottom of the trigger group.
This is exactly the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tomf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great info Dr. Phil. Quick question, would white lithium grease be OK to use in the trigger housing?</div></div>
Sure...
The point of it is to stay in place in order to capture loose particulate matter.
What you absolutely don't want is a grease that is loose enough in viscosity that it runs down into the bottom of the trigger group.
This is exactly the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Froglube has a growing following. It's apparently an organic, edible minty lubricant. I personally use 85% Royal Purple 20w50 motor oil and 15% CorrosionX. I think everyone has a voodoo mixture or product they prefer but as long as you keep the gun wet, it'll be happy.
Lubricants are a mature industry and there is nothing groundbreaking, just new mixtures of existing additives. The dry film and teflon stuff has been used in mountain bike lubes for decades since the problem of dirt and grime shedding on bike chains and the associated mechanical wear is far worse than anything a gun would ever see. I'm skeptical when a miracle gun lube comes out. We're talking a R&D capacity of a low volume gun lubricant company that might sell a thousand gallons a year in tiny 2oz bottles is versus lubricant companies that keep automobiles, aerospace, marine, and industrial equipment running across the globe with a staff of guys in white coats holding beakers. I'm not dismissing all gun lubes as a selection of proper addiives in an oil base will work regardless of who conjoured up the concoction. You're definitely going to be paying a lot more for the product due to low volume sales. The lubricant debate generally ends up like the Amsoil vs Royal Purple vs Etc threads on car forums.
Froglube has a growing following. It's apparently an organic, edible minty lubricant. I personally use 85% Royal Purple 20w50 motor oil and 15% CorrosionX. I think everyone has a voodoo mixture or product they prefer but as long as you keep the gun wet, it'll be happy.
Lubricants are a mature industry and there is nothing groundbreaking, just new mixtures of existing additives. The dry film and teflon stuff has been used in mountain bike lubes for decades since the problem of dirt and grime shedding on bike chains and the associated mechanical wear is far worse than anything a gun would ever see. I'm skeptical when a miracle gun lube comes out. We're talking a R&D capacity of a low volume gun lubricant company that might sell a thousand gallons a year in tiny 2oz bottles is versus lubricant companies that keep automobiles, aerospace, marine, and industrial equipment running across the globe with a staff of guys in white coats holding beakers. I'm not dismissing all gun lubes as a selection of proper addiives in an oil base will work regardless of who conjoured up the concoction. You're definitely going to be paying a lot more for the product due to low volume sales. The lubricant debate generally ends up like the Amsoil vs Royal Purple vs Etc threads on car forums.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
The best lub I've come across (not rust preventative) is Militec, especially in the BCG. Nothing's better in sand/dust environments. If applied correctly (2 step process - see their website), you're gtg.
Running "wet" in a dusty/dirty environment is a bad idea.
The best lub I've come across (not rust preventative) is Militec, especially in the BCG. Nothing's better in sand/dust environments. If applied correctly (2 step process - see their website), you're gtg.
Running "wet" in a dusty/dirty environment is a bad idea.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mypos5mikes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The best lub I've come across (not rust preventative) is Militec, especially in the BCG. Nothing's better in sand/dust environments. If applied correctly (2 step process - see their website), you're gtg.
Running "wet" in a dusty/dirty environment is a bad idea. </div></div>
I've used militec-1 and still have half a big bottle left. The only downside is it smells funky. However, the DoD has a different opinion on the effectiveness http://gao.gov/new.items/d09735r.pdf
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mypos5mikes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The best lub I've come across (not rust preventative) is Militec, especially in the BCG. Nothing's better in sand/dust environments. If applied correctly (2 step process - see their website), you're gtg.
Running "wet" in a dusty/dirty environment is a bad idea. </div></div>
I've used militec-1 and still have half a big bottle left. The only downside is it smells funky. However, the DoD has a different opinion on the effectiveness http://gao.gov/new.items/d09735r.pdf
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Nearly all of the failures I've seen(that weren't magazine or ammunition related) in the "AR" platform were related to improper or underlubricated components.
Read up on where to lube(other posters have covered this adequately), then apply a sheen of whatever coating you decide on. I have been using Shooters Choice recently, but that doesn't mean it's the best, just what I've been playing with. It doesn't need to be dripping, but don't be stingey with it either.
Nearly all of the failures I've seen(that weren't magazine or ammunition related) in the "AR" platform were related to improper or underlubricated components.
Read up on where to lube(other posters have covered this adequately), then apply a sheen of whatever coating you decide on. I have been using Shooters Choice recently, but that doesn't mean it's the best, just what I've been playing with. It doesn't need to be dripping, but don't be stingey with it either.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
Some of the big-name USPSA 3-gun shooters use Mobil 1 (30W IIRC). Any normal gun oil should work. How "wet" you run it would depend on the environment you are shooting in (i.e., if it is really dusty out, some people find that their gun runs better/more reliable with a lot of lube). Try some different ones and see what works best for you.
Some of the big-name USPSA 3-gun shooters use Mobil 1 (30W IIRC). Any normal gun oil should work. How "wet" you run it would depend on the environment you are shooting in (i.e., if it is really dusty out, some people find that their gun runs better/more reliable with a lot of lube). Try some different ones and see what works best for you.
Re: newbie AR lube ?
I was using Mobil 1 oil for a bit but wanted to try something a little thicker, so I broke out the Mobil 1 Synthetic grease I had from my last sway-bar bushing install. Coated the normal spots and a nice coat on the back of the bolt. Did two range days and was very pleased with the performance of my OBR 5.56. Went home after my last 100rd day and clean up was a breeze. Nothing but a shop rag needed, even on the back of the bolt.
I was a bit concerned with the synthetic grease being too thick but just a little bit goes a long way and it stays where it's put. Cycling was perfect and the gun ran flawlessly.
I'm thinking I'm done with oil.
Be good,
TomK
I was using Mobil 1 oil for a bit but wanted to try something a little thicker, so I broke out the Mobil 1 Synthetic grease I had from my last sway-bar bushing install. Coated the normal spots and a nice coat on the back of the bolt. Did two range days and was very pleased with the performance of my OBR 5.56. Went home after my last 100rd day and clean up was a breeze. Nothing but a shop rag needed, even on the back of the bolt.
I was a bit concerned with the synthetic grease being too thick but just a little bit goes a long way and it stays where it's put. Cycling was perfect and the gun ran flawlessly.
I'm thinking I'm done with oil.
Be good,
TomK
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