Rifle Scopes Nightforce Zero Stop

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Ringleboy26

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Minuteman
Sep 19, 2009
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Central WI
#1
I have a quick question on adjusting the zero stop on my nightforce scope. I need to turn the brass screw out about 1/2 turn higher than the clutch housing. Once it became flush to end of the housing, it became really hard to turn. I am scared to try and turn it the rest of the way out for fear of breaking something. Would the knob still work ok if the brass screw sticks out the top a bit? Should I just learn to live where it is at?

Thanks


jeremy
 
#3
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

aye the four screws are loose. I was able to get 4 full turns of the brass screw out till it became flush with the clutch. I did not want to turn to hard for fear of breaking the scope.
 
#4
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

Listen to LL as he is wise. If you have lost your instructions, check on the NF website, I believe they have the instructions there for reference. I adjusted my zero stops without any trouble at all. That says a lot since I am as mechanically gifted as a fence post.
 
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#6
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

lol I am turning on the elevation screw with a properly fitted screwdriver as per the instructions step 4. I am turning couter clockwise to raise impact point. Currently it is shooting 2 mils low at 100 yards.
 
#8
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

Once you adjust the turret up 2 mils. The zerostop clutch assembly is not in contact with the stop shoulder. In order to get it there you must hold the elevation screw and turn the clutch or do what i was doing and adjust the screw and keep the clutch against the stop.

Is that not how you are suppose to do it? That is how the directions read.
 
#9
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

the zero stop clutch starts off defeated by being placed high on the brass screw. So you can turn the turret in either direction.

Once you are zeroed, and you have it where you want, you simple remove the turret cap, loosen the 4 screws then turn the clutch to the shoulder and tighten the 4 screws down. Replace the cap in the zero position and you are done.

That is how I zero every one of my NF scopes.
 
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#10
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

Thanks for the very good description of how it is done. That is what I am trying to do. Now the clutch becomes hard to turn 2 mils away from being zeroed. This is the point where the brass screw would start to break the top plane of the clutch. Can that screw break the top plane of the clutch? or did nightforce bugger up the threads so that cannot happen.

This scope is mounted on a 20 moa nightforce directmount base. I bought the scope used so there could be an adjustment problem with it requiring me to have to turn the clutch down to far on the brass screw.

I have about 300 rounds through it and it works flawlessly, in regards to the dialing of the range. I had it out to 550yds without it running out of elevation.
 
#11
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jmking</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the very good description of how it is done. That is what I am trying to do. Now the clutch becomes hard to turn 2 mils away from being zeroed. This is the point where the brass screw would start to break the top plane of the clutch. Can that screw break the top plane of the clutch? or did nightforce bugger up the threads so that cannot happen.

This scope is mounted on a 20 moa nightforce directmount base. I bought the scope used so there could be an adjustment problem with it requiring me to have to turn the clutch down to far on the brass screw.

I have about 300 rounds through it and it works flawlessly, in regards to the dialing of the range. I had it out to 550yds without it running out of elevation. </div></div>

It should not come close to running out of elevation at 550Yrds anyway. Unless you are firing a .22..............

Im so humorous.

Just kidding, I wish I could help but I dont have zero-stop.

GG
 
#12
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the zero stop clutch starts off defeated by being placed high on the brass screw. So you can turn the turret in either direction.

Once you are zeroed, and you have it where you want, you simple remove the turret cap, loosen the 4 screws then turn the clutch to the shoulder and tighten the 4 screws down. Replace the cap in the zero position and you are done.

That is how I zero every one of my NF scopes. </div></div>

I really don't understand how suddenly there is all this hoopla about how "hard" the NF zero-stop mechanism is to figure out. If people would just slow down, read some directions, examine the mechanism for 30secs, it becomes very obvious how the thing works.

The first time I set mine was during a sighters period in a match, as I was using the opportunity to hard zero the new scope. It literally took no more time than it does to zero any adjustable turret.

Just like any other part of the shooting system, there are certain dos and don'ts.......I mean, are people mashing on their triggers like they mash on the clutch screws?
 
#13
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

You guys are something else. Nobody has answered the first question I asked. You spend more time calling some a retard than solving the problem. Yes I have read the instructions yes I know how it is suppose to work.

Now that is said inorder for me to get the scope zeroed @ 100 yds the clutch assembly needs to be turned 1/2 of a turn down on the brass screw. However it seems like Nightforce intenionally made a bad thread on the brass screw so you cannot do this. Now what are the possible causes for me to have to move the zero stop so high on the screw?

Now I mentioned that I bought the scope used (who knows what was done to it), was able to dial it out to 520yds(seems like I have enough elevation from the zero) and that the it was tracking correctly(not broken) as clues to how the scope was behaving. Now if anyone has any ideas for me to try it would be much appreciated. I going take the scope and base off to make sure that they are sitting tight to the action.

Thanks

Jeremy
 
#14
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

By adjusting the center brass screw you moved the erector from the optical center. You essentially eliminated the full travel of the scope. You have to recenter the erector and start from scratch because how you are doing it won't work.

FYI, I use a fair number of NF scopes including on AR10 type rifles and they zero at 100 yards and will dial to 1000 yards.

This is an issue of operator error, whether you did it or the other guy.

The answer is to center the erector, leave the brass screw alone and attempt to rezero. What you are describing does not ring true in terms of properly using the scope or the zero stop clutch.
 
#15
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

Wow great thread as I read the instructions Both of you have good points and when my rifle finally shows up I can try and figure the stupid zero stop out when I go to sight it in. Between you two and the instructions I'm throughly retarded. Somehow I think that a rather simple procedure has been over explained if there is such a thing. Keep on posting and maybe this idiot (me) might get it... Thanks in advance for the beating that I'm about to receive, lol...
 
#16
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

It pretty simple, mount it, shoot it, turn the turrets until zeroed.

Remove the caps, loosen the 4 screws and spin the clutch down. It should spin freely and not affect the zero. When it touches the stops, tighten the 4 screws and replace the turret cap with it zeroed.

End of process.

Normally if the clutch is binding the 4 screws are too tight or were overtightened at some point warping the clutch. It is possible the previous owner did some damage.
 
#19
lowlight said:
Re: Nightforce Zero Stop

It pretty simple, mount it, shoot it, turn the turrets until zeroed.

Remove the caps, loosen the 4 screws and spin the clutch down. It should spin freely and not affect the zero. When it touches the stops, tighten the 4 screws and replace the turret cap with it zeroed.

End of process.

Normally if the clutch is binding the 4 screws are too tight or were overtightened at some point warping the clutch. It is possible the previous owner did some damage.
Click to expand...
i know this is an old thread, but it's what came up when i searched. I did exactly as Lowlight said and it worked. I've got a problem though, i want to zero it closer. How do i go about that since i spun the clutch down and tightened it. How do i get some distance in the clutch to re adjust? I'll appreciate help on this
 
#20
jinxx4ever said:
i know this is an old thread, but it's what came up when i searched. I did exactly as Lowlight said and it worked. I've got a problem though, i want to zero it closer. How do i go about that since i spun the clutch down and tightened it. How do i get some distance in the clutch to re adjust? I'll appreciate help on this
Click to expand...
Remove the turret cap. Loosen the 4 clutch screws. Turn the clutch up a full turn or two. Tighten the 4 clutch screws. Put the turret cap back on. Now you can adjust zero to wherever it needs to be. Once zero is adjusted just set the zero stop per Lowlights instructions above.
 
#21
Mordamer said:
Remove the turret cap. Loosen the 4 clutch screws. Turn the clutch up a full turn or two. Tighten the 4 clutch screws. Put the turret cap back on. Now you can adjust zero to wherever it needs to be. Once zero is adjusted just set the zero stop per Lowlights instructions above.
Click to expand...
thanks, that's what i had in mind, just wanted to know for sure, my luck i'd fuck it up
 
#24
FWIW some Nightforces have Zerohold as opposed to Zerostop. The procedures are different. I had a hell of a time with my 4-16x42 with Zerohold; don't know exactly how I did it but finally got it right. Clutch was super stick initially.
 
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