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Nobler vs Lapua vs Hornady Brass

svxwilson

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Full Member
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  • Feb 23, 2013
    617
    69
    Montana
    I have a 6.5 Creedmoor and am currently using Hornady brass. I use Lapua in my 308 and 5.56 and love it. The Hornady brass is relatively cheep but doesn't get me any where as many firings until primers start to fall out of the case.
    How does Nosler brass stack up to Lapua brass? I am tired of my Hornady brass not holding the primer. I am aware that I could size up or down cases onto creed although I have never done that before. If I am going to pay more than Lapua prices I would expect that level of quality.
    Thanks for your thoughts.
     
    Im on my 3rd firing of a 50 batch of nosler creed brass. Im running 42.8 h4350 behind 136-140 pills. Still using 2 hands to prime 90% of the nosler. Ive also noticed this brass doesnt grow much at all. Pricey but worth it in my opinion.
     
    I too shoot Nosler brass, but in a straight .260. On my 9th firing and started loosing brass this week. I anneal every three firings and have NO cracked necks just primer pockets getting loose.
     
    You can use 22-250 brass, not very difficult. Easier than starting with 308/260.

    If I was to use 22-250 Lapua brass how would you recommend forming it into 6.5cm? Would I need a intermediate sizing die (6mm) or just use my 6.5cm sizer to form the case into Creedmoor? Is there any good threads you are aware of that can walk me through the instructions?
     
    If I was to use 22-250 Lapua brass how would you recommend forming it into 6.5cm? Would I need a intermediate sizing die (6mm) or just use my 6.5cm sizer to form the case into Creedmoor? Is there any good threads you are aware of that can walk me through the instructions?

    You FLS the 22-250 in your creedmoor die. You need to carefully adjust the die so the sized 22-250 brass chambers in your rifle with a little bolt-closure resistance...Just enough you can feel it drag as the bolt locks into battery.

    Then you'd neck the 22-250 brass up with a sinclair or K&M expander mandrel. With a little lube and a nicely tapered mandrel, you can do the .224-->.264" neckup in one shot, though it never hurts to do it in more steps... .224"-->.243"-->.264"

    That's it.

    In full disclosure, the formed brass' neck will be ~.015" shorter than true-spec 6.5CM brass. It doesn't hurt anything though.

    Edit to add: I would not advise doing this if you are seating bullets so that the bearing surface extends down below the neck/shoulder junction. Too much chance of donuts screwing with your neck tension.
     
    Last edited:
    What is the process of sizing a 308 case into 6.5CM? I imagine it would need a intermediate step like 7mm08?

    It's amazing what I have learned from the hide. Good stuff.
     
    Last edited:
    What is the process of sizing a 308 case into 6.5CM? I imagine it would need a intermediate step like 7mm08?

    It's amazing what I have learned from the hide. Good stuff.

    I haven't done 308. I'd imagine it'd require shortening a 308 die, so you can push the shoulder way back (I do this to prebump 22-250 prior to FLSing in a 6xc die), then FLSing in the creedmoor die (intermediate neck down to 7mm is better), then trimming off the end of the case because its now way too long. Then neck turning. Then fire forming.

    Mind you, FFing is required when starting with 22-250 also. The Creedmoor case has very, very little body taper. 308 has a fair bit, 22-250 has a LOT.
     
    I use Nosler in y 223 bolt gun with 69 SMK and 25 grs Varget and it is really good,,very consistent weight and on my 9th loading and primer pockets are still tight,,
     
    I have done it with the .308 lapua brass and it worked perfect.

    If any is in need of the service I offer it.