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Gunsmithing Options for a CNC machine

Sincerd

Drone
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 29, 2019
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Freestate
So I've been looking into C&C and I am actually shocked there is not more information out there. Seems like everyone makes a machine and it's hard to really find out which wines are at the top. Could anyone involved give me an idea of price ranges from Hobby machines all the way to professional. Maybe their capabilities in a few brand names?

Of course this is something I could find out with weeks or months of research but I figured if someone actually knows the information maybe it would only take a few minutes. Thank you.
 
https://www.imts.com

IMTS is where all the machines are on display. This year it is not happening but you might find some interesting info on machines on linke on their site.
 
So I've been looking into C&C and I am actually shocked there is not more information out there. Seems like everyone makes a machine and it's hard to really find out which wines are at the top. Could anyone involved give me an idea of price ranges from Hobby machines all the way to professional. Maybe their capabilities in a few brand names?

Of course this is something I could find out with weeks or months of research but I figured if someone actually knows the information maybe it would only take a few minutes. Thank you.

Maybe you could layout some of your parameters or goals. There's small bench top mills that are under a $1k and there are large multi axis machines that cost hundreds of thousands if not millions of dollars.

There are literally thousands of different types of CNC machines out there it's hard to point you in the right direction without a bit more detail.

What kind of parts are you looking to make?
Are you looking for a lathe or a mill?
Where is it being installed, garage, basement, shop.
What's your budget?
Etc

PS: learning the ins and outs of CNC machines isn't something you're going to learn in a matter of minutes either.
 
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So I've been looking into C&C and I am actually shocked there is not more information out there. Seems like everyone makes a machine and it's hard to really find out which wines are at the top. Could anyone involved give me an idea of price ranges from Hobby machines all the way to professional. Maybe their capabilities in a few brand names?

Of course this is something I could find out with weeks or months of research but I figured if someone actually knows the information maybe it would only take a few minutes. Thank you.
Lathes or mills? How many axis? They can get expensive.

Haas tool room machines (half manual half cnc) are pretty good and they're on the cheaper side. A bone stock tl1 (8"x30") starts at $21000. Same in tl2 (8"x48") starts at $28000. Haas tm1 (30x12x16) mill starts at $31000. Haas also gets bigger and more expensive from there with both lathes and mills.

Tormach makes some pretty cheap cnc mills. Tormach 770mx (14.25x7.5x13.25) starts at $17000. 1100mx (18x11x16. 25) starts at $19250. Check out nyc cnc YouTube channel to see some of the cool stuff they've done on theirs.

Going up from there they can get expensive. Mori seiki, mazak, Doosan puma, hermle, grob, gruppo parpas, all the way up to kern. Some machines that are quite small comparatively can be couple hundred thousand to well over a million. But then again some of those machines can drill a hole side ways through a hair and hold tolerances of plus or minus 2 micron (kern).


I've seen a gruppo parpas that had 40' of x, 15' of y, and 6' of z. Here at work now we have 5 grob g750 machines. Not our part in the video.
 
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That's a pretty broad question without stating your current and planned future needs.
 
Thanks a lot Lefty great information. That gives me a place to start. I would definitely be looking for a mill over a lathe.

As far as what I would want to do with it. I get ideas all the time of things that I think would be great inventions or ways to improve things. I make good money but it's not feasible to stay in my current occupation forever. Too hard on the body.

At this point I'm not even sure of the possibilities of current programs and software. Ideally I would like to be able to 3D print some types of plastic prototypes. Then eventually make them out of metal or countless other types of materials.
 
Thanks a lot Lefty great information. That gives me a place to start. I would definitely be looking for a mill over a lathe.

As far as what I would want to do with it. I get ideas all the time of things that I think would be great inventions or ways to improve things. I make good money but it's not feasible to stay in my current occupation forever. Too hard on the body.

At this point I'm not even sure of the possibilities of current programs and software. Ideally I would like to be able to 3D print some types of plastic prototypes. Then eventually make them out of metal or countless other types of materials.
Then definitely watch and search on nyc cnc. He does lots of stuff on how to use software, strategies, and feeds/ speeds.
 
You can buy a 3D printer now that actually works for $500. Depending upon where you are located, quite often there will be shops going out of business that will open up some deals at an auction. BUT you need to know what you're looking at and get it cheap enough to have it moved and possibly repair something.
Some real deals were out there before the Cvirus deal and I'm guessing there will be shops that never crank back up. Small Haas mills are typically pretty decent for entry level stuff and have decent support.
 
Look at Southwest Ind.
Years ago I worked in one shop that had a knee mill that was intuitive for the conversational programming and it could be used like a manual machine.
It also supported G&M code (EIA). I'm not a fan of conversational, I call it argumentative, but that's really because I get exposed to serveral different ones. Each has their own "dialect" as I call it. Once you get it figured out it is fairly simple.
We have a tired Series II Bridgeport that I would love to get replaced with one from Southwest.

5 golden rules of machining :

1. You can't cut what you can't hold.
2. A tool will cut on the path its sent.
3. Know your material.
4. If you dont know the (cutting) parameters- Look them up!
5. You can't fool mother nature.
 
Entry level trying to cut parts the Langmuir has my attention, especially now that they're doing automated height adjustments.

But it goes back to the question that's already been asked. What medium are you trying to cut and for what purpose?
 
Sorry I typed out a response I don't think It got posted.

I would at the very least want the ability to cut aluminum. When it comes to steel, is it able to be machined the same way?

Small parts. For example right now I would love to make a little piece of metal that slips on our drone. A vfg out of bullet aluminum. Qlot of other ideas.
 
Sorry I typed out a response I don't think It got posted.

I would at the very least want the ability to cut aluminum. When it comes to steel, is it able to be machined the same way?

Small parts. For example right now I would love to make a little piece of metal that slips on our drone. A vfg out of bullet aluminum. Qlot of other ideas.

Speeds (tool rpm)and feeds (cutting tool advance)are different. High speed steel and carbide will cut both. Extra care and fundamental apply with different grades of steel alloys and hardness.
You sound like you are extremely new to this venture. Many tooling manufacters catalogs either in print or online will have a technical section. Read and refer to these often. A book or class on basic machining would be my first recommendation.
Be careful and good luck.
 
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I'm an applications engineer for a large machine tool manufacturer.
DM me if you'd like to start some dialogue.
 
I've been doing this since 2003. I might even qualify as the first bone head to attempt this stuff. It's a business model that has taken me 17 years to get "right". Were still working on it.

A 10 year old Haas VF2 or VF3 will fit the bill for 90% of what you'll ever do. It does not take a Makino or Matsura to put guns together. I began with a 1992 Haas VF1. Basically, the machine Moses used to engrave the 10 commandments. That machine made me a great deal of money. A metric shit ton in fact. I ended up donating to the local high school for the tax break.

What you are going to find regardless of what machine you buy is that (x10 if its your first machine) you will grossly underestimate the tooling and work holding requirements. So, budget yourself accordingly. If you pay $50,000.00 for a used machine, then you should be adding 20% to that cost to cover a basic tool package. I cannot overstate that enough. You buy machines and soon you realize that it is the easy part.

Tools, holders, and work holding are what make you gray and consume coffee by the bucket.

Next, your work environment. You want 3 phase power. The machines just work better. Solid-state phase converters can work, but its a band-aid fix, and it's been my experience that the machines get buggy, and your power bill will be absurd. Your shop is another thing to look at. The floor is a big deal with a cnc. If it has cracks or has heaved/sunk on you, do whatever it takes to fix that first or you'll be chasing demons for a long time. Ensure it has the load rating for the machine. Also, make sure you can put the machine somplace where it can breathe. The electronics get hot. They need a clear pathway to fresh air so stuffing it in a corner with the pane 6" off the wall is not where you want to go with this. It'll work for a while this way, then all of the sudden you'll have issues.

Last, software. If you want to do this for a living, then get your head around the idea of sitting in front of a PC and learning to program with a CAM package. Fat fingering code at the control is how you give yourself a stubby finger with nerve damage. Doing this stuff correctly depends on a pathway from design to product. The software does this. If your gunsmithing then a lot of what you do will involve more complex tool paths. If it doesn't, then you don't need or want a CNC mill because all it ends up being is an expensive means of holding the floor down. The complexity is where it's at and to exploit it you need software.

Good luck. It's so worth it IMO. No regrets here.


PS: If your buying used from a dealer, I would make them pull the way covers back so you can look at the maintenance history of the machine. That's a PM that should be done annually. I would also ask for a wireless bar ball test and I'd want to listen to it under power. The spindle is the big thing. A vector drive should be almost vacant of sound below 5,000 rpm. A gearbox machine will be louder just cause the gears are straight cut. Vectors are fine for gunsmithing. Gearbox stuff works better when you are laying the hate on nastier materials.

Machine tool dealers: Know upfront they are worse than a used car salesman and/or strippers. They will lie, cheat, and steal. Just accept it going into this. When they say shit like "it's been a light-duty machine that only cut aluminum" call their ass out and put em on the spot because that is complete bullshit. Aluminum is the HARDEST material on machines. It machines freely yes, but the only way to make money in aluminum parts is by running that machine at its max duty cycle for as long as possible because if you don't, some other shop will and they will take the job from under your feet. Most used machines come from a job shop or manufacturing plant doing a changeover.

Aluminum sucks to try and evacuate from a machine. conveyors and augers struggle with it. If that is the path you are going, then it is worth every single penny to get the best machine you can possibly buy because only a few get this right and they are incredibly expensive. You will try and talk yourself out of it, but understand that if you pay a guy $25/hr to run parts, he's paid to run parts. He's not paid to give the machine a C section every 4 hours because it has snowdrifts of aluminum piled up inside of it. It won't take nearly as long as you think to end upside down on the "cheaper" machine. That comes from experience, lol.

This topic could go on for days, but those are the big ones that jump out ahead of stuff in my mind.

Good luck.

C.
 
Everything Longrifles says is 100 percent right...

Which brings us back to the question of... what do you want to do.

You want to make one-off prototypes and put your mental images into metal reality. Right?

That is not a job for a CNC machine. That is a job for a manual mill, a lathe and some skill to make one-off parts.

The beauty of CNC is that you can make a lot of things with it after programming. It is appallingly inefficient for one-off's.

I bought my first lathe in 1996... my first mill in 1999. Followed by a surface grinder, pin hone, three more lathes... The only electronics are DRO's on the biggest/best lathes and on the mill. Other than that... mic's and verniers. Not a CNC to be found. Because when I make something, it's (almost) always a one-off or at most a 10-off. Mainly I am doing exactly what you dream of... turning my ideas into one-off items, whether to restore cannons, make amazing models or fix cars that noone else can fix. One part is all I need. There is no doing that with CNC machines.

I was on the board of an amazing small machining company. We had machines ranging up to a 7-axis Okuma Multus. Did things for DARPA, NASA... lots of others. But the one-off parts were almost (almost) all made manually. Because the programming and the set ups were too risky for one-offs.

If you want to make your dreams come true in metal, buy manual machines cheap. Learn to do one-off. Learn fixturing. Learn process. Look at some of the model Engineering magazines. Not professional machininsts publications.

Just a few thoughts... I can't say how much I love hearing other people want to do what the OP wants to do. But CNC or even printing... is not the way to do it. The fundamentals come when you learn to cut chips in an X-Y axis lathe... and on an X-Y-Z axis manual Bridgeport. Both of which you can buy, with tooling, for far less than it will take you to install your first HAAS. And only when you master the manual machines will you have what it takes to program the big boys.

Just a few cents on the dollar... Your mileage may vary... as seen on TV... Offer not valid on Guam... Etc. Etc. Blah Blah.

Sirhr
 
Reason why I mentioned the haas tool room machines vs the vf's is that the tool room mills have handles that you can feed by hand or set a feed rate or program. They also have 40 Taper spindles for easy tool changes. It's a step between a dro Bridgeport and a vf cnc only machine. They have them alot at machining schools.
 
Everything Longrifles says is 100 percent right...

Which brings us back to the question of... what do you want to do.

You want to make one-off prototypes and put your mental images into metal reality. Right?

That is not a job for a CNC machine. That is a job for a manual mill, a lathe and some skill to make one-off parts.

The beauty of CNC is that you can make a lot of things with it after programming. It is appallingly inefficient for one-off's.

I bought my first lathe in 1996... my first mill in 1999. Followed by a surface grinder, pin hone, three more lathes... The only electronics are DRO's on the biggest/best lathes and on the mill. Other than that... mic's and verniers. Not a CNC to be found. Because when I make something, it's (almost) always a one-off or at most a 10-off. Mainly I am doing exactly what you dream of... turning my ideas into one-off items, whether to restore cannons, make amazing models or fix cars that noone else can fix. One part is all I need. There is no doing that with CNC machines.

I was on the board of an amazing small machining company. We had machines ranging up to a 7-axis Okuma Multus. Did things for DARPA, NASA... lots of others. But the one-off parts were almost (almost) all made manually. Because the programming and the set ups were too risky for one-offs.

If you want to make your dreams come true in metal, buy manual machines cheap. Learn to do one-off. Learn fixturing. Learn process. Look at some of the model Engineering magazines. Not professional machininsts publications.

Just a few thoughts... I can't say how much I love hearing other people want to do what the OP wants to do. But CNC or even printing... is not the way to do it. The fundamentals come when you learn to cut chips in an X-Y axis lathe... and on an X-Y-Z axis manual Bridgeport. Both of which you can buy, with tooling, for far less than it will take you to install your first HAAS. And only when you master the manual machines will you have what it takes to program the big boys.

Just a few cents on the dollar... Your mileage may vary... as seen on TV... Offer not valid on Guam... Etc. Etc. Blah Blah.

Sirhr


While I agree with most of that, a manual machine isn't always the best for prototyping. Even the most basic part with just a couple radii will be faster to hand program, setup and machine with CNC.

The bottom line is the OP needs to know what parts he plans on making. From his follow up response, it sounds like he wants a full shop, not "a" machine.
 
While I agree with most of that, a manual machine isn't always the best for prototyping. Even the most basic part with just a couple radii will be faster to hand program, setup and machine with CNC.

The bottom line is the OP needs to know what parts he plans on making. From his follow up response, it sounds like he wants a full shop, not "a" machine.
Totally right... the OP needs to know what he wants to do.

That said... I have shaped a ton of bits to cut radii (radius gauges from Starret are indespensible) and one of these lets you do almost anything!


You may need a four jaw chuck though.

But radii on manual machines were done long before CNC machines. By guys whose skills I am not even worthy of dreaming about! CNC didn't come along until late 1970's... then it was mostly tape drive. But long before then, machinists were making hemispheres, balls, radii... the old fashioned way. With bars and bits.

But you are right. A CNC makes radius easier. IF you can program it. And get it right the first time. And fixture it. And not have a head crash or a programming error. A master CNC programmer is better and faster than I'll ever be. But it took me 25 years to get here manually. And it probably takes a master CNC programmer about the same time to get a first-time every time radius or taper or compound or similar complex cut in CNC. And a lot more investment in machines.

The bottom line, and you allude to this, is that none of it is easy. None comes overnight. But once you get it down... it all seems simple.

1592607154213.png


Here's a little non-CNC project I did yesterday. The piece next to my thumb... the shaft... and the hex cam... scratch made. in a day. To restore a centrifugal advance unit in a 1922 car. Adapted some parts from a 1920's Essex to another distributor. The parts that weren't essex (the flyweights, the pump cam,0 were original. All made in a day. You don't have to be a CNC machinist to do what guys in the 1920's did... daily.

Sirhr
 
If you don't have formal experience find a local CC and take their night classes. There is a lot you need to know to do this safely and have a reasonable probability of not destroying equipment in the process.

The Program I went through was a year of Manual then a Year of CNC. I only did the manual. My buddy just finished up the CNC portion. As i understand it, they are getting rid of the manual program, which is really sad.

He ended up buying a used 20 year old tormach to get his business going, sold a clapped out bridgeport. We are working on some designs and he has been learning fusion 360 so its a work in progress.

Most of the guys here who do it have years of experience. They probably cut their teeth along the way and had to learn alot of lessons the hard way. Its a very challenging profession and is truly humbling.

My grandfather was a tool/die maker and I grew hanging around in his shop. I wish I would have spent more time learning , he was a wealth of knowledge. I will never forget the story he told me when he was working in one shop his first cut into a $400 (alot of money in the 60s) piece of a brass was wrong and they had to start over. Alot of guys would have been fired over that fuck up. Always plan your work out and take your time. Rushing into things before you thought them through or understand how the process works can be very costly.

An intelligent person could teach themselves how to run the machinery but its going to be slow, you will have ALOT of questions along the way. Its just way more efficient to get formal education and make your stupid mistakes on the schools machines instead of your own. These machines are very dangerous to the untrained person and even the trained as people get complacent and a little too comfortable around them. Not that you won't make lots of mistakes along the way, you just tend to make the big ones before you learn the hard way. Plus being forced to help them fix the machines (making new half nuts,ect) also adds to your skill when you have to do it on your own or work on your own gear.

just my humble not so educated opinion.