Has anyone done a web finish on one of thier rifles and can you tell me how to go about doing this to mine. I will be doing a black & OD green finish and could use any help available to me.
Fieldcraft painting rifle stock with web finish
- Thread starter Aggiefan83
- Start date
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
You can get acrylic lacquer automotive paint and do not thin it out at all with thinner and spray it from a conventional paint gun. It will string out of the gun giving you the effect of a web, just stay back from your job and let it go. I would recommend using a test panel first and get a feel for it and how it goes on. Just remember to not thin the paint before you shoot it, it won't do it if you use thinner.
You can get acrylic lacquer automotive paint and do not thin it out at all with thinner and spray it from a conventional paint gun. It will string out of the gun giving you the effect of a web, just stay back from your job and let it go. I would recommend using a test panel first and get a feel for it and how it goes on. Just remember to not thin the paint before you shoot it, it won't do it if you use thinner.
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
Krylon webbing paint is cheaper than investing in a paint gun, if all you want is black, white, or silver.....and pretty much idiot proof. Joanne.com sells it. Get one can for your rifle, and one can to practice with first.
I like to put my base coat down and let it tack up. Then I put the webbing paint on, and let it tack up. Then two or three coats of satin clear over that. It all melds together into one fuck of a tough finish. Let it hang for a week or so to cure out well.
Practice on an old chunk of 2X4 with the whole process,or a canoe paddle like I did the first time, to get what you want. These pics are of my first try, and although I like it well enough to keep it, I went a little heavy on the web in places. Since then I've thinned 'em up just a tad and they look better to me.....
Krylon webbing paint is cheaper than investing in a paint gun, if all you want is black, white, or silver.....and pretty much idiot proof. Joanne.com sells it. Get one can for your rifle, and one can to practice with first.
I like to put my base coat down and let it tack up. Then I put the webbing paint on, and let it tack up. Then two or three coats of satin clear over that. It all melds together into one fuck of a tough finish. Let it hang for a week or so to cure out well.
Practice on an old chunk of 2X4 with the whole process,or a canoe paddle like I did the first time, to get what you want. These pics are of my first try, and although I like it well enough to keep it, I went a little heavy on the web in places. Since then I've thinned 'em up just a tad and they look better to me.....
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
If you get the Krylon from Joanne's or michaels, practice with it. You need to make very quick passes with it, so it won't clump up. Definately don't do it outside with a breeze because its harder to control where the spray goes. Heres one I did a couple weeks ago.
If you get the Krylon from Joanne's or michaels, practice with it. You need to make very quick passes with it, so it won't clump up. Definately don't do it outside with a breeze because its harder to control where the spray goes. Heres one I did a couple weeks ago.
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
Here's one I did. All Krylon. Sorry for the crappy picture.
Here's one I did. All Krylon. Sorry for the crappy picture.
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
Fantastic job fellas. Really excited about the project so I will be picking some up this weekend
Fantastic job fellas. Really excited about the project so I will be picking some up this weekend
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
Just an FYI that I'm sure you'll figure out when you hit that first practice squirt....
The nozzle on the krylon webbing paint throws a tallish-esque skinny fan pattern, not a round one like regular spray paint. The pattern is wide enough to hit the entire height of the stock if you made your pass from the tip to the butt plate, holding the can about 12 or so inches off of the stock.
My technique calls for a heavy wooden dowel, or broom stick, or hunk of rigid copper pipe affixed in the barrel channel with a wood screw/washer through a stock bolt hole ,and another one through the front swivel stud hole. What you have is basically a barrel length handle to hold on to the stock with.
I start down one side with a pass of webbing, then rotate it to the top of the stock and make a second sweep, rotate to the other side and make a sweep on it, then a final rotate to the bottom of the stock and a final sweep on that. Each pass will overlap a little so that is where the practice comes in to adjust your speed of your sweep to get it to come out even.
DON'T try to short throttle the nozzle to get less webbing paint as it may spit and spatter a glob of snot if you do. Use the stuff full throttle and figure out how fast you have to move to get it right. It comes out a lot faster than you might figure it would.
I usually sweep from the tip of the stock towards the recoil pad on all four passes and never back up with it, or let it stop short. You can always add a little squirt to help a thin spot but you can't take it off without starting all over again. Start your spraying out past the end of the tip, move a steady even speed, and don't let off until you've cleared the recoil pad. Do that and you won't have any problems.
I hold the stock out away from me by the "barrel" and level with the ground. I hold the can of webbing straight up and the fan pattern I mentioned just works best doing it that way. A wind will mess you up so get on the lee side of the house if it's blowing.
Post some pics when you're done.........
Just an FYI that I'm sure you'll figure out when you hit that first practice squirt....
The nozzle on the krylon webbing paint throws a tallish-esque skinny fan pattern, not a round one like regular spray paint. The pattern is wide enough to hit the entire height of the stock if you made your pass from the tip to the butt plate, holding the can about 12 or so inches off of the stock.
My technique calls for a heavy wooden dowel, or broom stick, or hunk of rigid copper pipe affixed in the barrel channel with a wood screw/washer through a stock bolt hole ,and another one through the front swivel stud hole. What you have is basically a barrel length handle to hold on to the stock with.
I start down one side with a pass of webbing, then rotate it to the top of the stock and make a second sweep, rotate to the other side and make a sweep on it, then a final rotate to the bottom of the stock and a final sweep on that. Each pass will overlap a little so that is where the practice comes in to adjust your speed of your sweep to get it to come out even.
DON'T try to short throttle the nozzle to get less webbing paint as it may spit and spatter a glob of snot if you do. Use the stuff full throttle and figure out how fast you have to move to get it right. It comes out a lot faster than you might figure it would.
I usually sweep from the tip of the stock towards the recoil pad on all four passes and never back up with it, or let it stop short. You can always add a little squirt to help a thin spot but you can't take it off without starting all over again. Start your spraying out past the end of the tip, move a steady even speed, and don't let off until you've cleared the recoil pad. Do that and you won't have any problems.
I hold the stock out away from me by the "barrel" and level with the ground. I hold the can of webbing straight up and the fan pattern I mentioned just works best doing it that way. A wind will mess you up so get on the lee side of the house if it's blowing.
Post some pics when you're done.........
Re: painting rifle stock with web finish
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DON'T try to short throttle the nozzle to get less webbing paint as it may spit and spatter a glob of snot if you do. Use the stuff full throttle and figure out fast you have to move to get it right. I usually sweep from the tip of the stock towards the recoil pad on all four passes and never back up with it, or let it stop short. You can always add a little squirt to help a thin spot but you can't take it off without starting all over again. Start your spraying out past the end of the tip, move a steady even speed, and don't let off until you've cleared the recoil pad. Do that and you won't have any problems.
</div></div> This is good info, I found the same to be true. One can of webbing spray has enough to do several stocks so don't be shy about practicing. If you want the highest durability, use a good primer before your base coat. After webbing, do about three coats of flat clear. It makes it considerably more wear resistant.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DON'T try to short throttle the nozzle to get less webbing paint as it may spit and spatter a glob of snot if you do. Use the stuff full throttle and figure out fast you have to move to get it right. I usually sweep from the tip of the stock towards the recoil pad on all four passes and never back up with it, or let it stop short. You can always add a little squirt to help a thin spot but you can't take it off without starting all over again. Start your spraying out past the end of the tip, move a steady even speed, and don't let off until you've cleared the recoil pad. Do that and you won't have any problems.
</div></div> This is good info, I found the same to be true. One can of webbing spray has enough to do several stocks so don't be shy about practicing. If you want the highest durability, use a good primer before your base coat. After webbing, do about three coats of flat clear. It makes it considerably more wear resistant.
