Not sure if posting in correct section but does anyone have any experience with a rattle can painted muzzlebrake? I'm planning to coat a stainless brake with ultra high heat black . Just wondering if the paint even stands a chance.
Painting the muzzlebrake
- Thread starter Yaremkiv
- Start date
Nope, you're right. It will look like crap after about 2 sessions. Plus the first time solvent gets on it then it's truly over.
Cerakote fairs a bit better, but only for a bit. Best option would probably to have it black nitrided if cost isn't a factor.
Cerakote fairs a bit better, but only for a bit. Best option would probably to have it black nitrided if cost isn't a factor.
If you're planning on just painting it black and it's stainless steel, I'd just get it PVD coated. If you get it TiAlN coated, it will still look black and probably cost you ~$50.
Have this process done and then paint away! You should consider any paint on a rifle as temporary.
I've painted a lot of different rifle parts, but never a brake. Hah. Either way, prep work is the majority of a good job. Give the paint a good clean surface to stick to. I use brake cleaner on all my stuff and it works great. That and a little sanding with 400 grit goes a long way.
Already bought nitride version lol, just wanted to see if I can get the stainless one to work. Spoiler alert, it doesnt, at least not with Rustoleum Ultra High Heat
Racism won’t be tolerated here!
Follow the lead above OP, paint it. If it looks like crap strip it.
If you indeed did mean "bead blasted", it won't hold paint. If you meant "abrasive blasted" (eg; 120 grit aluminum oxide) then it will hold paint. Bead blasting creates smooth edges that paint will not adhere to, whereas abrasive blasting creates rough edges that paint will adhere to.
Having said all of that, the propellant gases, heat and carbon will shred most paint in short order.
I would recommend BBQ paint. It is silicone based and cures (chemically reacts) with heat forming a tough coating. The key is to heat it up to cure it before firing (do it outside, the fumes from the curing stink and are not healthy to breathe).
Have you considered blackening (black oxide conversion). It is like blueing but for stainless.
Have you considered blackening (black oxide conversion). It is like blueing but for stainless.
What elwarpo said - BBQ paint that cures with heat (I use the heat from shooting) works very well and is cheap to buy and easy to reapply as required. If you want different colours I use the enamel spray paint from hoppy shops with a colour range suited to different terrains.
Don't over-intellectualise a 5 min job unless you are building a Safe Queen - if that is the case take 10 mins to do the job!
Don't over-intellectualise a 5 min job unless you are building a Safe Queen - if that is the case take 10 mins to do the job!
I’ve found that a matte clear enamel will definitely make a difference to how well it will last. The initial surface prep is important. It will wear out of the baffles pretty quick but will get coated in carbon, so it’ll still be black.
