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Peterson 6.5 Creedmoor brass issues

chavezz556

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Minuteman
May 21, 2012
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Panhandle of Idaho
So a couple weeks back I purchased some once fired Peterson SRP (Palma) brass off the PX..

I currently shoot a Bergara lrp elite in 6.5 cm

Have loaded new in box Peterson SRP and have had no issues chambering rounds...the difference with this brass is it says (Palma) on the bottom and that is the Only difference (by eye) I could tell

My process on the once went as follows....

Full length size
Clean
Trim/chamfer
Prime
Powder
Seat bullet

I went thru a random 40 of the 200 I loaded and maybe half the bolt wouldn't close

Btw I loaded the same load in the other Peterson brass last week and it was fine
Same base to ogive... same exact process

Any ideas on what the issue is?

Btw I shot the same exact loan today except with starline brass

I did get a weird mark on the primer...see pic.. also included a pic of the starline load right next to the Peterson load

Please help! I hate pulling bullets!
 

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It is possible that your fl die did not push the shoulder back far enough on the brass when you sized it. Screw the fl die in about 10 degreees or until it firmly touches shell holder and try again. If you don’t have a Hornady head space gauge set I suggest getting one. This tool is well worth the money and is simple to use and will also potentially make your Brass last longer.
 
It is possible that your fl die did not push the shoulder back far enough on the brass when you sized it. Screw the fl die in about 10 degreees or until it firmly touches shell holder and try again. If you don’t have a Hornady head space gauge set I suggest getting one. This tool is well worth the money and is simple to use and will also potentially make your Brass last longer.

They sell the Lyman version at my local gun store.. I'll pick on up for sure

I'll take a look at the die..

Usually what I do is touch the die to the ram then back out a 1/4 turn
 
Having the gauge will really open your eyes on how far you need to bump the shoulder back. I had to take the belt sander to some of my case holders to get the shoulder pushed back properly. Properly in my opinion is about 2 to 4 thousandth’s.
 
Sounds like a headspace issue. Peterson definitely resizes differently than Starline - different sizing die setting.
 
Was that fired or unfired? I would only be guessing, though. Hard to tell from the pic but I don't think I've seen that before.
 
That mark looks like its from the firing pin hole on your bolt, probably from trying to close the bolt on a piece of brass that is too long (your resizing wasn't enough). That being said your primers also shouldn't be making contact with the bolt, probably a shallow primer hole on one (if not many) of your brass, you need to fix that. In your pic with two cartridges side by side the neck and shoulder on the right hand one is visibly longer than the left, that definitely speaks of a resizing problem, but you should pick a gauge and measure, eyeballing it isn't enough.
 
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I recently shot out a Bartlein barreled Creedmoor using 300 pieces of Peterson brass, all SRP. Rechambered a Muller barrell, measured headspace and resized the Peterson brass to bump about .002.

Out of the first 20 rounds I had 2 stuck cases and the rest were either difficult to close or very stiff to extract. I remeasured everything, case neck, shoulder bump, COAL etc. All measurements were good. New chamber fed new Lapua brass just fine.

Turns out it was the case head/web that was oversized, about .006 “fatter” than unfired Lapua brass. Neither the Redding or Hornady die would sufficiently size the shot Peterson brass so I tried an RCBS small base sizer.

Problem solved. I haven’t fired them yet to confirm they’ll spring back sufficiently to size again with a standard die, but I’m fairly confident they will.

Try a small base die. (Pretty sure RCBS is the only one in 6.5)
 
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Are your primers just under flush with the case head? I had some Peterson SRP brass and had a difficult time seating primers to .004" less than flush, and most of the time, they sat proud of the case head.

Measure the depth of the primer pocket, and then measure the height of your primers.
 
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So a couple weeks back I purchased some once fired Peterson SRP (Palma) brass off the PX..

I currently shoot a Bergara lrp elite in 6.5 cm

Have loaded new in box Peterson SRP and have had no issues chambering rounds...the difference with this brass is it says (Palma) on the bottom and that is the Only difference (by eye) I could tell

My process on the once went as follows....

Full length size
Clean
Trim/chamfer
Prime
Powder
Seat bullet

I went thru a random 40 of the 200 I loaded and maybe half the bolt wouldn't close

Btw I loaded the same load in the other Peterson brass last week and it was fine
Same base to ogive... same exact process

Any ideas on what the issue is?

Btw I shot the same exact loan today except with starline brass

I did get a weird mark on the primer...see pic.. also included a pic of the starline load right next to the Peterson load

Please help! I hate pulling bullets!

Looks to me like your primers aren’t seated below flush with the case head. Either you’re not seating them deep enough or the primer pockets are cut too shallow to allow correct seating.

John
 
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Looks to me like your primers aren’t seated below flush with the case head. Either you’re not seating them deep enough or the primer pockets are cut too shallow to allow correct seating.

John
I'm with this guy, the first thing I would do is uniform about 10 primer pockets and get the primer seated deeper. If that does not work, start measuring the web area and above, do this brass and fired brass and see what numbers you get.
 
That mark looks like its from the firing pin hole on your bolt, probably from trying to close the bolt on a piece of brass that is too long (your resizing wasn't enough). That being said your primers also shouldn't be making contact with the bolt, probably a shallow primer hole on one (if not many) of your brass, you need to fix that. In your pic with two cartridges side by side the neck and shoulder on the right hand one is visibly longer than the left, that definitely speaks of a resizing problem, but you should pick a gauge and measure, eyeballing it isn't enough.

This might sound dumb, but do I turn the sizer in or out to bump the shoulder back... I would assume in

I've always just screwed in till hit the ram then backed out a 1/4 turn....also inspected my die last night there was a bunch of lube build up on the stem, so I put it in the ultra sonic for a few minutes

Thanks, for all the help guys.. I have a hornady headspace gauge on the way
 
This might sound dumb, but do I turn the sizer in or out to bump the shoulder back... I would assume in

I've always just screwed in till hit the ram then backed out a 1/4 turn....also inspected my die last night there was a bunch of lube build up on the stem, so I put it in the ultra sonic for a few minutes

Thanks, for all the help guys.. I have a hornady headspace gauge on the way
Try this first, I'm assuming the die was set for the brass you were using in the rifle? If so, this brass (should) size to fit also> So, lube a palma marked case, size, wipe off and see if it chambers, if not relube and do it again, this time 2 pumps, rotating it on the 2nd, retry chambering. If it goes in, you need to screw die down, if it does fit, now prime and try chambering again.
 
Uugh, if you do that make sure you get every bit of lube out of your chamber. When you get your headspace gauge measure a fired case, one where the primer was sitting flush or below flush in the primer pocket. You screw your die in slowly to move the shoulders back more, what you are trying to do is make the shoulders at least .002 smaller that the measurement you took on a fired case. On some presses you will have to "cam over" on the press stroke to meet this minimum bump back on your shoulders. A couple of thousandths over .002 is ok also but most precision hand loaders shoot for that number. Turn you die in small increments, measure, adjust and do it several times if you have to until it gets there. You can try lubing a case and chambering as mentioned above but if you do is is imperative that you get all the lube out of your chamber before firing the gun. Lube in a chamber is bad, excess lube in a chamber is a recipe for disaster.
 
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There's a good chance based on your pictures that the primers not being seated flush caused your problem and that needs to be addressed also. Get a primer pocket uniform tool and use it, make sure you are bottomed out on the shoulder of the tool when you uniform the primer pockets. The above post should help you get your sizing consistent. Both of these fixes should help you make more consistent hand loads. Remember no two brands or even lots of the same brass are identical, go slow and measure anytime you are changing up any reloading component.
 
Try this first, I'm assuming the die was set for the brass you were using in the rifle? If so, this brass (should) size to fit also> So, lube a palma marked case, size, wipe off and see if it chambers, if not relube and do it again, this time 2 pumps, rotating it on the 2nd, retry chambering. If it goes in, you need to screw die down, if it does fit, now prime and try chambering again.
And I'm not saying you are wrong, just that the OP seems a bit new at reloading and I wanted to warn him about the dangers of firing a weapon with a bunch of lube in the chamber.
 
And I'm not saying you are wrong, just that the OP seems a bit new at reloading and I wanted to warn him about the dangers of firing a weapon with a bunch of lube in the chamber.
I thought I said to wipe before chambering, I'll turn this over to you, lol
 
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Eat a dick Einstein, just saying
I figured as much, go fuck yourself loser. I wasn't trying to start no internet bitch fight, just give some safe advice, obviously you are one of many here that can't handle that, cunt.
 
Sorry OP, didn't want to trash up your thread. Its damn near impossible to give advice here without some dickhead going apeshit thinking you threatened his manhood. I'm out, PM me if you think I can help you. Hope you get your problem sorted out.
 
I figured as much, go fuck yourself loser. I wasn't trying to start no internet bitch fight, just give some safe advice, obviously you are one of many here that can't handle that, cunt.
Your "Inner Twat" surfaced here,, no one is going to have a catastrophic failure from some lube in the chamber. I do believe One Shot says right on it that cleaning is not necessary. Also, I'd like to think someone asking questions on a gun reloading forum has at least read one loading manual and has some basic knowledge. And in the op's case, he has been reloading for awhile, he just cannot get brass fired from a diff gun to go into his.
Quit acting like you are a savior here.
 
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I had this issue with my prime one fired brass when I first started reloading. The primer pockets were way shallow. And I had to turn the FL sizing for right against the shell holder to get the shoulder bump that was needed. I think it was a little combination of both that wouldn’t let my bolt close easy.
 
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So I pulled the bullets and tried to resize a few using "cam over" and twisting the case 3 times to make sure I got all sides and it won't go any further into the headspace gauge..

I did measure the base of the case about .3 above the base and it was 7 thou wider than a once fired case from my own gun..

Anyone with a competition shell holder set willing to try to size a few of these cases?
Just don't want to buy the set if it's won't help me

I'll send like 40 cases so it's worth your time ??
 

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Something is "off" with that brass you bought, how many did you pick up?
 
So I pulled the bullets and tried to resize a few using "cam over" and twisting the case 3 times to make sure I got all sides and it won't go any further into the headspace gauge..

I did measure the base of the case about .3 above the base and it was 7 thou wider than a once fired case from my own gun..

Anyone with a competition shell holder set willing to try to size a few of these cases?
Just don't want to buy the set if it's won't help me

I'll send like 40 cases so it's worth your time ??
Sounds like if you want to run that brass, you are going to need this to get it in your chamber.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/751374/rcbs-small-base-sizer-die
 
i had the similar problem as you with my 338lm brass that my buddy gave me. His rifle have larger chamber spec of the area above the rims. I just run it with Hornady full length die then Redding body die to get rid of the problem.

it is not headspace issue, it is the cartridge base issue ( like your 36" waist wont' fit in a 30" skinny jean)

whenever you reloading fired brass that not from your rifle, Resize it first then chamber it to see it will chamber or not.
 
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Just ordered the body die from amazon.. if it doesn't work I'll return it
The body die you ordered is just an FL die w/o a neck treatment feature, it will be a crap shoot on whether it does anything. At 7 thou wider in the area you need to work, the chance of "rolling" brass is a possibility, I'll try find a pic, but it will look like the outside case is cracked.
IMO, right now, you are better off buying new brass that is going to work.
 
The body die you ordered is just an FL die w/o a neck treatment feature, it will be a crap shoot on whether it does anything. At 7 thou wider in the area you need to work, the chance of "rolling" brass is a possibility, I'll try find a pic, but it will look like the outside case is cracked.
IMO, right now, you are better off buying new brass that is going to work.


That's what I'm thinking...
 
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you should order different brand of body die from your FL die. Different brand have different spec. Again, FL die is same as body die with squeeze neck.
 
You shouldn't be reloading if your not able to measure your cases and the distance your bullets are from the lands. From the primer pic it looks rubbed enough that it has to be proud. You have to address that issue as well. I suggest you put the money down and buy these.

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...gauges/headspace-comparator-anvil-base-kit#!/

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...s-and-gauges/lock-n-load-bullet-comparator#!/

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...tools-and-gauges/oal-gauges-modified-cases#!/

https://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...product-picture/preview/7219.jpg&action=click


This is rocket science, and oversizing a case/repeatedly oversizing a case is setting yourself for case head separation. You can blow a rifle up, and you know where your face will be if it does. Lube in a chamber will cause pressure issues. Always clean your chamber with a chamber mop... it takes 15 seconds. It's a learning process, and you should read and understand the various issues others are having in their reloading process. There's more than one way to get there, but we're all trying to make safe and accurate ammo .

I admit,,,, I reloaded a lot of shells before I understood I didn't have a clue! Good luck with your issues.
 
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Chavezz556 - Fired brass from other chamber is larger diameter just above the extractor cut, as your cartridge headspace guage is showing. You'd use a small base FL die or a small base body die to size brass down enough to fit your chamber for the first firing, then go back to your standard die for all subsequent sizing of that brass. Donated / free brass can become quite expensive if chamber the brass was fired in is larger than your chamber.
Warning that the small base dies are not for bolt action rifles is valid but more so to not use for every loading as that would be over working the brass and cause premature case - head separation.

I prefer to do the small base first because it is going to push the shoulder forward. OD of body is getting squeezed down and that brass is going to go somewhere. You'll have to find a process that nets you needed dimension to fit your chamber and I expect you might need to do an iterative process to get that.

Size with small base
Relube brass
Size with your standard die
Relube brass
Run back through the small base die.

Depends on how the brass moves as to the actual sequence you'll need to do for the brass to be sized to fit your chamber. Yeah, it does suck and is a bit of a time consuming process. Do you have a micrometer to measure body diameters?

I've also found that if I have a die set up for Hornady brass, when I size Prime or Lapua or Peterson brass fired from the same chamber, the sized dimensions of brass are different for relative headspace. Different alloy of brass, different wall thicknesses, etc, you need to fine tune your size die position depending on brass you are sizing. I REALLY prefer to run one brand of brass in a chamber and only use brass in a single chamber. New chamber gets new brass, re-barrel rifle, buy new brass and repeat. One can wear out barrel of a 6.5 Creed with 300 pieces of brass if you aren't loading hot and sizing brass correctly.

Sizer dies are not all the same, some standard dies are dang near small base dimension and some small base dies are darn near standard sizer dimensions and that is when looking at dies from a single mfg'er. BTDT, got the T shirt.

I have a small base 6.5 Creed die, if you want to send me a few cases to size to determine if that will work, shoot me a PM.
I have to second what Milo 2.5 mentioned, quite possible at 0.007" larger diameter you'll "roll" the excess OD into a ridge when using a SB die.
What rifle did this brass that is 0.007" large in diameter come out of?
 
The difference in base diameter between standard and small base sizing dies is .001”-.002” which is not going to cause premature casehead separation with the way most people around here load their Creedmoors. You’ll lose your primer pockets first.
 
I know this is an older thread. Is there any difference at all on the wall to the solder bend between the cases that chamber and those that do not?

I’ve had both the enlarged bases on my magnums (fixed with small base dies as mentioned) and weirder still a miss adjusted seating die on a cheap seater where the collor slightly deformed the neck at the junction mentioned above. The latter of the two was the furthest from chambering by a healthy margin.
 
You drill or mill the shoulder out of a small base die and not experience any shoulder bump, and bring your brass back into spec, you will need to bump after though. Boils down to, you have more work to do to the brass than it is worth.
 
You shouldn't be reloading if your not able to measure your cases and the distance your bullets are from the lands. From the primer pic it looks rubbed enough that it has to be proud. You have to address that issue as well. I suggest you put the money down and buy these.

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...gauges/headspace-comparator-anvil-base-kit#!/

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...s-and-gauges/lock-n-load-bullet-comparator#!/

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...tools-and-gauges/oal-gauges-modified-cases#!/

https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=hornady+6.5+creedmoor+modified+case&fr=yfp-t-s&imgurl=https://www.grafs.com/uploads/product-picture/preview/7219.jpg#id=0&iurl=https://www.grafs.com/uploads/product-picture/preview/7219.jpg&action=click


This is rocket science, and oversizing a case/repeatedly oversizing a case is setting yourself for case head separation. You can blow a rifle up, and you know where your face will be if it does. Lube in a chamber will cause pressure issues. Always clean your chamber with a chamber mop... it takes 15 seconds. It's a learning process, and you should read and understand the various issues others are having in their reloading process. There's more than one way to get there, but we're all trying to make safe and accurate ammo .

I admit,,,, I reloaded a lot of shells before I understood I didn't have a clue! Good luck with your issues.
You shouldn't be reloading if your not able to measure your cases and the distance your bullets are from the lands. From the primer pic it looks rubbed enough that it has to be proud. You have to address that issue as well. I suggest you put the money down and buy these.

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...gauges/headspace-comparator-anvil-base-kit#!/

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...s-and-gauges/lock-n-load-bullet-comparator#!/

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...tools-and-gauges/oal-gauges-modified-cases#!/

https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=hornady+6.5+creedmoor+modified+case&fr=yfp-t-s&imgurl=https://www.grafs.com/uploads/product-picture/preview/7219.jpg#id=0&iurl=https://www.grafs.com/uploads/product-picture/preview/7219.jpg&action=click


This is rocket science, and oversizing a case/repeatedly oversizing a case is setting yourself for case head separation. You can blow a rifle up, and you know where your face will be if it does. Lube in a chamber will cause pressure issues. Always clean your chamber with a chamber mop... it takes 15 seconds. It's a learning process, and you should read and understand the various issues others are having in their reloading process. There's more than one way to get there, but we're all trying to make safe and accurate ammo .

I admit,,,, I reloaded a lot of shells before I understood I didn't have a clue! Good luck with your issues.
I have all of them except the headspace comparitor..

I know I fucked up in not checking it in a headspace gauge first.. will not do that again and now that i wasted all that time and money. I'm going to stick with Peterson for match ammo and starline for my plinking ammo..

I'm going to try the base sizer if that doesn't work I'm trashing these...