Gunsmithing Picatinny 20moa base clearance to objective..

[GearboxRacquetball]

After getting a proper cheek weld and eye relief, the beginning of the SS objective portion of the scope is only like 1/8 inch away from the end of the picatinny rail(the EGW 20moa "HD" rail has two extra grooves that go past the seam of the bbl starts) What is typically done in this situation, if anything? I'm new to using a one piece base, so I'm just checking - cosmetically, it looks like perhaps the excess of the rail should get cut off, but don't know if it's really that fussy or not. I plan on shootin' the thing, not taking pics of it ~ yet..

Thanks!

 

[deadly0311]

Re: Picatinny 20moa base clearance to objective..

if you have your eye relief set, pull that thing off and cut it off. If its not touching and you dont wanna cut if its fine where it is, it wont hurt anything

 

[Urimaginaryfrnd]

Re: Picatinny 20moa base clearance to objective..

So long as the scope is not touching the rail you are good. If it's hanging over so what - some day you may have a different scope on it and may want that extra length - I suggest you leave it as is.

 

[Aries64]

Re: Picatinny 20moa base clearance to objective..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: splatroll</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After getting a proper cheek weld and eye relief, the beginning of the SS objective portion of the scope is only like 1/8 inch away from the end of the picatinny rail(the EGW 20moa "HD" rail has two extra grooves that go past the seam of the bbl starts) What is typically done in this situation, if anything? I'm new to using a one piece base, so I'm just checking - cosmetically, it looks like perhaps the excess of the rail should get cut off, but don't know if it's really that fussy or not. I plan on shootin' the thing, not taking pics of it ~ yet..

Thanks! </div></div>
I had the same "problem" when I mounted a Leupold Vari-X III 4.5-14X 40mm A.O. on my MOA 10/22 using EGW's Extended Picatinny 20 MOA 10/22 Base. The front of the rail extended about 2" beyond the receiver, and would have actually protruded about 2.25" on a standard Ruger 10/22 or 10/22 receiver clone because the MOA receiver's base holes are drilled about 1/4" further back to clear the MOA Receiver's barrel threads.

I shortened the rail by 33mm <span style="font-style: italic">(to 145mm)</span>, which provided more clearance for the objective "flare" on my Vari-X III 4.5-14X 40mm A.O. and Falcon 4-14X 44mm while still allowing me to mount the big boys with proper eye relief.

<span style="font-weight: bold">EGW Extended 20 MOA 10/22 Picatinny Rail mounted on MOA 10/22 Receiver <span style="font-style: italic">before shortening of rail:</span></span>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Leupold Vari-X III 4.5-14X 40 A.O. on EGW Extended 20 MOA 10/22 Rail mounted on MOA 10/22 <span style="font-style: italic">before shortening of rail:</span></span>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Falcon Optics FFP 4-14X 44 on EGW Extended 20 MOA 10/22 Rail mounted on MOA 10/22 <span style="font-style: italic">after shortening of rail:</span></span>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25X 56mm DT on EGW Extended 20 MOA 10/22 Rail mounted on MOA 10/22 <span style="font-style: italic">after shortening of rail:</span></span>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Premier Heritage 5-25X 56mm DT w/2" ARD on EGW Extended 20 MOA 10/22 Rail mounted on MOA 10/22 <span style="font-style: italic">after shortening of rail:</span></span>

After I shortened the rail I stoned it to square it pretty well, then used Aluminum Black to blend the rail color. It came out looking pretty good.

If the overhang bothers you, I say go ahead and shorten the rail. The EGW rails are inexpensive enough that you can always buy another if you need one. (Personally, I prefer Seekins for better quality and lower rail height anyway).

Keith

 

[rhinehart]

What do you guys suggest for cutting the base with?

 

[Aries64]

What do you guys suggest for cutting the base with?

Assuming that you don't have a mill in your garage, depending upon the material you can just use a Dremel with a cutting wheel or a fine blade hacksaw, cleaning-up with hand files, squaring with a stone, and smoothing with fine emery cloth. If you're not going to coat the rail you can protect the finish with Aluminum Black or Super Cold Blue.


Keith

 

[apf383]

Just trimmed mine with dremel cut off wheel. Then hit with a bit of paint. Piece of cake. Good luck.

 

[Tank]

I had the same issue. Luckily for me my rifle was on its way to the smith for additional work so I just had him mill off the base to just at the recoil lug of the barrel. I dont use really long scopes so that space wasnt needed. Ive since had it done to two other bases.