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Rifle Scopes Picatinny Mounted Anti Cant Devices

Recommendations for good ones?

Thanks,

John
Europtic has 2 versions of this one - pictured is the swivel version - Derek at Europtic recommended it to me - he runs Badger low rings with a 30mm tube and it fits under his scope (unknown model) - I run a NF 20moa rail and NF 30mm low rings and it works under my scope too (3-12x44 LRTSI) ... I'm sure there are others but it's a start for ya ... best Michael
7041337
 
I have a USO one.... It's cool, but not accurate. Off by a couple degrees. Gonna be buying a scope-mounted level... probably an Accuracy 1st.
 
clcustom1911 - shame - mine seems fine - though I only shoot out to 600 ish ... have you tried USO CS? they might help you out if you're still in to it - good luck
 
clcustom1911 - shame - mine seems fine - though I only shoot out to 600 ish ... have you tried USO CS? they might help you out if you're still in to it - good luck

It gets me close enough to make hits at 1000+. It's just not "perfect" per se LoL. I just had too learn to put the bubble not exactly in the center between the lines.
 
It gets me close enough to make hits at 1000+. It's just not "perfect" per se LoL. I just had too learn to put the bubble not exactly in the center between the lines.
Or level your scope to the bubble level as well. Seems like a setup error that could easily be fixed. Of course you can leave it as is since you know your setup.
 
Or level your scope to the bubble level as well. Seems like a setup error that could easily be fixed. Of course you can leave it as is since you know your setup.

I did level my scope to that level initially. Then I level'd my scope reticle plum vertical in a Badger Ordnance leveling jig. A noticeable difference.
 
flat line, vortex, USO, horrus had a integrated on with a slope, the electronic one

i used to have all sorts of shit hanging off my rail or scope for cant

now i just buy a spuhr mount (or find another base with it integral)

ive dropped my rifle a few times hunting and spun one that was on the the scope itself

i line everything up and then put a dot of nail polish on the mount and scope as a indicator in case i really wack it.

i also take note when lining everything up to see where the bubble is when im lined up behind the rifle. i dont care if its in the middle or slightly to one side by a few degrees as long as i know where its supposed to be.
 
I did level my scope to that level initially. Then I level'd my scope reticle plum vertical in a Badger Ordnance leveling jig. A noticeable difference.
You did it backwards.
What i mean is level your rifle using the bubble level. Keep it there. Now level your scope to the plumline by rotating it in the rings without disturbing your rifle. Now bubble level is level to the ground and scope is as well. Tighten down the scope and recheck to verify.

The only difference is the bubble level needs to stay true while you are leveling the scope compared to a ring mounted level where the scope has to remain true while you are leveling the ring.
 
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I think you'll like my levels quite a lot. My rail mounted levels are beefy and have a protected vial that is significantly more sensitive than others their size. Visible, but not needlessly large.

As others have said, scope levels are probably your best bet. My ULP version is similar to an Accuracy First at a much lower price, and dead simple setup. No huge honking level to stick out and snag stuff or be broken, yet plenty sensitive.


 

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For the price I have to agree with ZCO, Hoptic is simple and accurate.
 
It would seem that although it is harder to true. A scope ring level, being further from the bore, would be more precise???
 
A scope level lets you ensure crosshairs are level. Rail mounted depends on your rail being true, and makes sure your rifle is level if so. Many folks if "comfortable" behind a gun will cant the gun naturally to fit better into their shoulder pocket. In this case with a scope level you can still set the crosshairs to be level even if the rifle is canted a bit!
 
A scope level lets you ensure crosshairs are level. Rail mounted depends on your rail being true, and makes sure your rifle is level if so. Many folks if "comfortable" behind a gun will cant the gun naturally to fit better into their shoulder pocket. In this case with a scope level you can still set the crosshairs to be level even if the rifle is canted a bit!

As long as the rail mounted level shows level while the scope is being rotated in the rings to level the crosshairs it makes no difference if your rail is true. What does a “true” rail mean anyhow? True to what? In the next sentence you say to can’t the rifle for comfort and level the scope at that point. Guess what. That trued rail isn’t true anymore and now scope barrel offset is introduced as the scope isn’t directly over the bore. Of course if you set your rifle up purposely canted the ring mounted level is your only option.

Should we start a thread debating a canted rifle with leveled scope and the problems that would cause due to the scope not being directly over the bore??

I try to simplify things. That’s one of the reasons I don’t use bubble levels on my rifle. Adds complexity that I don’t need.
 
As long as the rail mounted level shows level while the scope is being rotated in the rings to level the crosshairs it makes no difference if your rail is true. What does a “true” rail mean anyhow? True to what? In the next sentence you say to can’t the rifle for comfort and level the scope at that point. Guess what. That trued rail isn’t true anymore and now scope barrel offset is introduced as the scope isn’t directly over the bore. Of course if you set your rifle up purposely canted the ring mounted level is your only option.

Should we start a thread debating a canted rifle with leveled scope and the problems that would cause due to the scope not being directly over the bore??

I try to simplify things. That’s one of the reasons I don’t use bubble levels on my rifle. Adds complexity that I don’t need.


True rail: true to the action

Canted rifle: not nearly as big of an impact as canted reticle

No level & long range: recipe for inconsistency. hitting a plate at 1000? Might not make THAT big of a difference. Trying to shoot the best group possible at 1k? It will, I guarantee it.
 
anyone use the long range arms SEND IT level device? for verification in positional shooting such as prs? givin that rifle is leveled during set up bubble level mounted on bbl for reference durong scope / reticle leveling process ? looking for experience thoughts on the device thanks
 
anyone use the long range arms SEND IT level device? for verification in positional shooting such as prs? givin that rifle is leveled during set up bubble level mounted on bbl for reference durong scope / reticle leveling process ? looking for experience thoughts on the device thanks

I've used one. They are expensive, nice, and fancy looking. Can get unbelievably sensitive, like a disco in front of your face.
 
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I think you'll like my levels quite a lot. My rail mounted levels are beefy and have a protected vial that is significantly more sensitive than others their size. Visible, but not needlessly large.

As others have said, scope levels are probably your best bet. My ULP version is similar to an Accuracy First at a much lower price, and dead simple setup. No huge honking level to stick out and snag stuff or be broken, yet plenty sensitive.



I just bought yours. I'll try it out and let you know how it works for me. Thanks.
 
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anyone use the long range arms SEND IT level device? for verification in positional shooting such as prs? givin that rifle is leveled during set up bubble level mounted on bbl for reference durong scope / reticle leveling process ? looking for experience thoughts on the device thanks

Been using one for a few years and it's amazing. Adjustable down to .2 degrees (I usually keep it at .5, it adjusts from .2-1) and also has a bubble level built in. They also sell a version without the bubble level but I think it's best with both.

The thing is a work of art in terms of quality and it's indestructible. You can use it horizontal and vertical, it has both modes. I had the USO fold out levels previous and still use those, they are very high quality. But the Send-it is on another level, it's a Cadillac.

Sadly it's overkill for anything but ELR. Among seasoned ELR shooters, it's well known a bubble level is very accurate but it takes time to respond to changes, whereas the electronics are real time. Always challenging to keep it in view though, I have to open the left eye and try and see both things at once. I love how it is basically "green light is a go" and it's a single light.

For PRS I would imagine the best thing is something like the levelplex in the SIG Tango's so you don't have to pay attention to two things, but I have not used it.
 
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thanks for the input i appreciate it i talked myself into buying one after watching several videos with good feed back