Please critique my annealing. This is before sizing, decaping, and ultra sonic cleaning.
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Re: Please critique my annealing.
You have burned the shit out of those necks, way to much heat for too long! They are now irreversibly soft. Toss them.
it should look something like this when properly done. 6-8 seconds of heat is all you should need for 308 brass.
You have burned the shit out of those necks, way to much heat for too long! They are now irreversibly soft. Toss them.
it should look something like this when properly done. 6-8 seconds of heat is all you should need for 308 brass.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have burned the shit out of those necks, way to much heat for too long! They are now irreversibly soft. Toss them.
it should look something like this when properly done. 6-8 seconds of heat is all you should need for 308 brass.
</div></div>
They were already burnt from firing, remember they haven't been cleaned at all. SO barring the burnt carbon on the mouth, is the blue line what I'm going for? I was using this pic as a guide...
Should I clean another batch and do it over so we can see a more accurate picture?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have burned the shit out of those necks, way to much heat for too long! They are now irreversibly soft. Toss them.
it should look something like this when properly done. 6-8 seconds of heat is all you should need for 308 brass.
They were already burnt from firing, remember they haven't been cleaned at all. SO barring the burnt carbon on the mouth, is the blue line what I'm going for? I was using this pic as a guide...
Should I clean another batch and do it over so we can see a more accurate picture?
Re: Please critique my annealing.
You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass.
You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have burned the shit out of those necks, way to much heat for too long! They are now irreversibly soft. Toss them.
it should look something like this when properly done. 6-8 seconds of heat is all you should need for 308 brass.
</div></div>
This is what mine looked like after I annealed for the first time the other day.
I used a little butane torched and heated the brass holding it by the head. Seemed to take only a few seconds then it was too hot to hold. Dropped it in the water after that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have burned the shit out of those necks, way to much heat for too long! They are now irreversibly soft. Toss them.
it should look something like this when properly done. 6-8 seconds of heat is all you should need for 308 brass.
This is what mine looked like after I annealed for the first time the other day.
I used a little butane torched and heated the brass holding it by the head. Seemed to take only a few seconds then it was too hot to hold. Dropped it in the water after that.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Here is a good read on annealing brass:
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
Here is a good read on annealing brass:
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
My bad, this trial run was done on scrap brass so I didn't bother cleaning them up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
My bad, this trial run was done on scrap brass so I didn't bother cleaning them up.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shot In The Dark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
My bad, this trial run was done on scrap brass so I didn't bother cleaning them up. </div></div>
I use an RCBS TrimMate case prep dohickey to spin the cases. This is a prefered way to do it. You don't want to see any red, orange or white, but a slight maroon color.
I set up in the kitchen with a BenzOmatic torch and turn off the lights, so I can see the color change easier. I also count and this is where the spinning motion gives a more even burn. I think I go about 7 seconds on 308 and 8-9 seconds on my 338LM. The 22-250s and 7 RMs I've done are a bit less and in between, respectively.
It does depend on the distance of the flame from the case, how much flame you're using and where you're aiming at. I like to aim for the neck/shoulder joint and get the shoulder annealed, myself.
There is a learning curve and I'm sure that I've mucked some up, but they've been fine.
You're lucky you didn't do a box of Lapua brass that way. Always ask here first.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shot In The Dark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
My bad, this trial run was done on scrap brass so I didn't bother cleaning them up. </div></div>
I use an RCBS TrimMate case prep dohickey to spin the cases. This is a prefered way to do it. You don't want to see any red, orange or white, but a slight maroon color.
I set up in the kitchen with a BenzOmatic torch and turn off the lights, so I can see the color change easier. I also count and this is where the spinning motion gives a more even burn. I think I go about 7 seconds on 308 and 8-9 seconds on my 338LM. The 22-250s and 7 RMs I've done are a bit less and in between, respectively.
It does depend on the distance of the flame from the case, how much flame you're using and where you're aiming at. I like to aim for the neck/shoulder joint and get the shoulder annealed, myself.
There is a learning curve and I'm sure that I've mucked some up, but they've been fine.
You're lucky you didn't do a box of Lapua brass that way. Always ask here first.
Chris
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shot In The Dark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
My bad, this trial run was done on scrap brass so I didn't bother cleaning them up. </div></div>
You don't want to see any red, orange or white, but a slight maroon color.
</div></div>
I am putting the brass into a 1/2" deep socket and spinning the shoulder area through a pretty low flame. So if I were to do another little batch would you advise a dark room and shooting for maroon glowing color? Do you think I should go for a high flame instead, opting for a quick in and out method??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shot In The Dark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are supposed to cean them first, then anneal. The crud on the necks becomes part of the brass. </div></div>
My bad, this trial run was done on scrap brass so I didn't bother cleaning them up. </div></div>
You don't want to see any red, orange or white, but a slight maroon color.
</div></div>
I am putting the brass into a 1/2" deep socket and spinning the shoulder area through a pretty low flame. So if I were to do another little batch would you advise a dark room and shooting for maroon glowing color? Do you think I should go for a high flame instead, opting for a quick in and out method??
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Shot,
You can actually see the brass taking on a dull finish while it's in the flame ..It doesn't need to go much more than that..Take a good look at USMCj's brass..You'll see that look as the temp starts to come to the brass..I haven't checked YOUTUBE to see what they have?? Sometimes you have to be careful on there but there might be some tutorials?? Again take a good look at USMCj case.Like in all things practice makes perfect..
Shot,
You can actually see the brass taking on a dull finish while it's in the flame ..It doesn't need to go much more than that..Take a good look at USMCj's brass..You'll see that look as the temp starts to come to the brass..I haven't checked YOUTUBE to see what they have?? Sometimes you have to be careful on there but there might be some tutorials?? Again take a good look at USMCj case.Like in all things practice makes perfect..
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P M P</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Shot,
You can actually see the brass taking on a dull finish while it's in the flame ..It doesn't need to go much more than that..Take a good look at USMCj's brass..You'll see that look as the temp starts to come to the brass..I haven't checked YOUTUBE to see what they have?? Sometimes you have to be careful on there but there might be some tutorials?? Again take a good look at USMCj case.Like in all things practice makes perfect.. </div></div>
10-4 on that thanks PMP, I see what you're getting at I'll watch for the dulling effect, I'm going to ruin another little batch tonight and post up pics for critiquing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P M P</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Shot,
You can actually see the brass taking on a dull finish while it's in the flame ..It doesn't need to go much more than that..Take a good look at USMCj's brass..You'll see that look as the temp starts to come to the brass..I haven't checked YOUTUBE to see what they have?? Sometimes you have to be careful on there but there might be some tutorials?? Again take a good look at USMCj case.Like in all things practice makes perfect.. </div></div>
10-4 on that thanks PMP, I see what you're getting at I'll watch for the dulling effect, I'm going to ruin another little batch tonight and post up pics for critiquing.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Put the neck of an annealed brass in your caliper jaws, squeeze the jaws with your
fingers (opposite sides of the neck so you don't put any strain on your calipers)
until you squash the neck .002. If it doesn't spring back all the way to it's former
dimension it's ruined or over annealed. I would guess trigger happy did not get his
annealed at all if he used a little butane torch. I can tell the difference right away in
my trimmer if the brass is not annealed but I have no other sure test other than
neck tension when loading. I anneal in a near pitch black basement that is about
50 degrees. With a map gas bottle on the propane torch it takes 8-9 seconds for a
22-250 case to just start to glow maroon at all. That is where I dump it out of the
spinner onto the floor and onto the next. Some guys watch for a little orange kick of flame
up off the brass as their finished signal. Go to a welding shop and get an 800 or 850 degree heat crayon if you have any doubts. Use it until you have your timing
figured out. Any cooler and you won't anneal quickly, and at 900 or so your brass is junk. An Infared temp gun won't work on clean brass unless it can
go well under 1 on the emissivity. Tarnished brass it will, somewhere around
60 or 70.
I would want to see the blue ring about half of the distance from the shoulder from where you have it. But that can vary depending on how quickly
you got it hot.
Put the neck of an annealed brass in your caliper jaws, squeeze the jaws with your
fingers (opposite sides of the neck so you don't put any strain on your calipers)
until you squash the neck .002. If it doesn't spring back all the way to it's former
dimension it's ruined or over annealed. I would guess trigger happy did not get his
annealed at all if he used a little butane torch. I can tell the difference right away in
my trimmer if the brass is not annealed but I have no other sure test other than
neck tension when loading. I anneal in a near pitch black basement that is about
50 degrees. With a map gas bottle on the propane torch it takes 8-9 seconds for a
22-250 case to just start to glow maroon at all. That is where I dump it out of the
spinner onto the floor and onto the next. Some guys watch for a little orange kick of flame
up off the brass as their finished signal. Go to a welding shop and get an 800 or 850 degree heat crayon if you have any doubts. Use it until you have your timing
figured out. Any cooler and you won't anneal quickly, and at 900 or so your brass is junk. An Infared temp gun won't work on clean brass unless it can
go well under 1 on the emissivity. Tarnished brass it will, somewhere around
60 or 70.
I would want to see the blue ring about half of the distance from the shoulder from where you have it. But that can vary depending on how quickly
you got it hot.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigwheeler</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Put the neck of an annealed brass in your caliper jaws, squeeze the jaws with your
fingers (opposite sides of the neck so you don't put any strain on your calipers)
until you squash the neck .002. If it doesn't spring back all the way to it's former
dimension it's ruined or over annealed. I would guess trigger happy did not get his
annealed at all if he used a little butane torch. I can tell the difference right away in
my trimmer if the brass is not annealed but I have no other sure test other than
neck tension when loading. I anneal in a near pitch black basement that is about
50 degrees. With a map gas bottle on the propane torch it takes 8-9 seconds for a
22-250 case to just start to glow maroon at all. That is where I dump it out of the
spinner onto the floor and onto the next. Some guys watch for a little orange kick of flame
up off the brass as their finished signal. Go to a welding shop and get an 800 or 850 degree heat crayon if you have any doubts. Use it until you have your timing
figured out. Any cooler and you won't anneal quickly, and at 900 or so your brass is junk. An Infared temp gun won't work on clean brass unless it can
go well under 1 on the emissivity. Tarnished brass it will, somewhere around
60 or 70.
I would want to see the blue ring about half of the distance from the shoulder from where you have it. But that can vary depending on how quickly
you got it hot.
</div></div>
OK, I just pulled out my Tempilstik 650f and marked about 1/4" below the shoulder, I ran it through my setup at full flame and it melted right at 12 seconds. Everything I read said I needed to be around 660f so that's right where the first ones were stopped. If I need to be at 800-ish I'm not even close even though the above pics look roasted. The roasting color is no doubt exacerbated by the contaminates on the surface as my cleaned brass shows nothing but a little dulling at the same time-in-flame.
I did the caliper crush test, only I crushed as much as I could (.008") and in full flame this test brass lost it's spring at 17-19 seconds. The brass began showing maroon color at 17-18 seconds.
So I've been going to 650-ish indicated by the tempilstik but if I should be going to 800 than none of my brass, despite the color, is even getting annealed. Any thoughts?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigwheeler</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Put the neck of an annealed brass in your caliper jaws, squeeze the jaws with your
fingers (opposite sides of the neck so you don't put any strain on your calipers)
until you squash the neck .002. If it doesn't spring back all the way to it's former
dimension it's ruined or over annealed. I would guess trigger happy did not get his
annealed at all if he used a little butane torch. I can tell the difference right away in
my trimmer if the brass is not annealed but I have no other sure test other than
neck tension when loading. I anneal in a near pitch black basement that is about
50 degrees. With a map gas bottle on the propane torch it takes 8-9 seconds for a
22-250 case to just start to glow maroon at all. That is where I dump it out of the
spinner onto the floor and onto the next. Some guys watch for a little orange kick of flame
up off the brass as their finished signal. Go to a welding shop and get an 800 or 850 degree heat crayon if you have any doubts. Use it until you have your timing
figured out. Any cooler and you won't anneal quickly, and at 900 or so your brass is junk. An Infared temp gun won't work on clean brass unless it can
go well under 1 on the emissivity. Tarnished brass it will, somewhere around
60 or 70.
I would want to see the blue ring about half of the distance from the shoulder from where you have it. But that can vary depending on how quickly
you got it hot.
</div></div>
OK, I just pulled out my Tempilstik 650f and marked about 1/4" below the shoulder, I ran it through my setup at full flame and it melted right at 12 seconds. Everything I read said I needed to be around 660f so that's right where the first ones were stopped. If I need to be at 800-ish I'm not even close even though the above pics look roasted. The roasting color is no doubt exacerbated by the contaminates on the surface as my cleaned brass shows nothing but a little dulling at the same time-in-flame.
I did the caliper crush test, only I crushed as much as I could (.008") and in full flame this test brass lost it's spring at 17-19 seconds. The brass began showing maroon color at 17-18 seconds.
So I've been going to 650-ish indicated by the tempilstik but if I should be going to 800 than none of my brass, despite the color, is even getting annealed. Any thoughts?
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Only squash .002. Why would you crush it .008? It takes brass a full hour at 600
to anneal. 750 to 800 it does it in seconds. You can use a lower temp stick like
750 and come up to it or and 800 or 850 and quickly learn what is too much. Your
cases would obviously be ruined if it wasn't done quickly. If you aren't seeing
maroon until 17 or 18 seconds you are not heating just the neck (put your
flame at the base of the neck but not on the shoulder) or you aren't in a dark
enough room and or not looking close enough.
And the below the shoulder may only come up to 600 or so. But you are not interested in anything but the max temp the neck reaches.
Only squash .002. Why would you crush it .008? It takes brass a full hour at 600
to anneal. 750 to 800 it does it in seconds. You can use a lower temp stick like
750 and come up to it or and 800 or 850 and quickly learn what is too much. Your
cases would obviously be ruined if it wasn't done quickly. If you aren't seeing
maroon until 17 or 18 seconds you are not heating just the neck (put your
flame at the base of the neck but not on the shoulder) or you aren't in a dark
enough room and or not looking close enough.
And the below the shoulder may only come up to 600 or so. But you are not interested in anything but the max temp the neck reaches.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Ok, let me try to explain this as much as I can, look at the pic of the flame below, see the blue inner flame tip thats at the top of the letter S in the watermark, that should be touching the middle of the case neck when turning the case against the flame. This assures quick heatup and annealing.
to figure out how long to hold the flame on the case without the use of temp idicating paint, or marker, do the following.
tumble you brass clean and shiny. Then go into the bathroom, turn the lights off and anneal a case while you count, you will notice the neck glowing a very faint red, and the fire thats hitting the case mouth turns from blue to orange, at that very second, stop and see if it looks like the pic I posted, if so, then remember how high you counted to get to that point and count to the same number for each other case.
Ok, let me try to explain this as much as I can, look at the pic of the flame below, see the blue inner flame tip thats at the top of the letter S in the watermark, that should be touching the middle of the case neck when turning the case against the flame. This assures quick heatup and annealing.
to figure out how long to hold the flame on the case without the use of temp idicating paint, or marker, do the following.
tumble you brass clean and shiny. Then go into the bathroom, turn the lights off and anneal a case while you count, you will notice the neck glowing a very faint red, and the fire thats hitting the case mouth turns from blue to orange, at that very second, stop and see if it looks like the pic I posted, if so, then remember how high you counted to get to that point and count to the same number for each other case.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigwheeler</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Only squash .002. Why would you crush it .008? It takes brass a full hour at 600
to anneal. 750 to 800 it does it in seconds. You can use a lower temp stick like
750 and come up to it or and 800 or 850 and quickly learn what is too much. Your
cases would obviously be ruined if it wasn't done quickly. If you aren't seeing
maroon until 17 or 18 seconds you are not heating just the neck (put your
flame at the base of the neck but not on the shoulder) or you aren't in a dark
enough room and or not looking close enough.
And the below the shoulder may only come up to 600 or so. But you are not interested in anything but the max temp the neck reaches.
</div></div>
Ah, you're right I have been applying flame just below the shoulder, say 1/8". So I'll move the flame up more towards the neck as per your suggestion. I tried crushing a batch at .002" and another at .008 simply for experimental curiosity. I had really similar results with both the .002" and .008" crush and requisite spring. Luckily this is all with scrap brass. I'll get the 750 temilstik on the way. Thanks again BigWheeler!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigwheeler</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Only squash .002. Why would you crush it .008? It takes brass a full hour at 600
to anneal. 750 to 800 it does it in seconds. You can use a lower temp stick like
750 and come up to it or and 800 or 850 and quickly learn what is too much. Your
cases would obviously be ruined if it wasn't done quickly. If you aren't seeing
maroon until 17 or 18 seconds you are not heating just the neck (put your
flame at the base of the neck but not on the shoulder) or you aren't in a dark
enough room and or not looking close enough.
And the below the shoulder may only come up to 600 or so. But you are not interested in anything but the max temp the neck reaches.
</div></div>
Ah, you're right I have been applying flame just below the shoulder, say 1/8". So I'll move the flame up more towards the neck as per your suggestion. I tried crushing a batch at .002" and another at .008 simply for experimental curiosity. I had really similar results with both the .002" and .008" crush and requisite spring. Luckily this is all with scrap brass. I'll get the 750 temilstik on the way. Thanks again BigWheeler!
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
</div></div>
I think that may have been another problem I was having prior to BigWheeling's help. I wasn't locating the flame on the right portion of the brass (I was way too low) and I was holding a good 1/16" out of the core of my neutral flame. Since the remainder of the brass shell is in-effect, a heat-sink do you think it would be worth setting up two intersecting neutral flames with say 60 or so degrees of separation in order to accelerate the heating period?
Thanks for your help USMCj
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
</div></div>
I think that may have been another problem I was having prior to BigWheeling's help. I wasn't locating the flame on the right portion of the brass (I was way too low) and I was holding a good 1/16" out of the core of my neutral flame. Since the remainder of the brass shell is in-effect, a heat-sink do you think it would be worth setting up two intersecting neutral flames with say 60 or so degrees of separation in order to accelerate the heating period?
Thanks for your help USMCj
Re: Please critique my annealing.
single flame should do just fine when doing them by hand.
single flame should do just fine when doing them by hand.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Good description UCMj Thanks
Good description UCMj Thanks
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Anytime Trovan.
And I forgot to mention, Use a Propane torch only! Do not use Map Gas, lol.
Anytime Trovan.
And I forgot to mention, Use a Propane torch only! Do not use Map Gas, lol.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
USMCj or anyone else, do you have better luck with any specific torch tip vs. another?
USMCj or anyone else, do you have better luck with any specific torch tip vs. another?
Re: Please critique my annealing.
I just use a BenzoMatic Fat Boy propane torch with the standard tip that it comes with.
I just use a BenzoMatic Fat Boy propane torch with the standard tip that it comes with.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
"if I were to do another little batch would you advise a dark room and shooting for maroon glowing color? Do you think I should go for a high flame instead, opting for a quick in and out method??"
I find that it's best to stop just before seeing any "glowing" at all. The surface of a tumbled/shined neck should not lose it slick surface appearance.
I've lathe turned and cobbled up several annealing case holders of various designs. The best I've found is simply a small machinests marking scribe, it looks sorta like a small all-metal ice pick. Put the point in the flash hole and spin the case, drop it in a pan of water when the right temp has been reached.
"if I were to do another little batch would you advise a dark room and shooting for maroon glowing color? Do you think I should go for a high flame instead, opting for a quick in and out method??"
I find that it's best to stop just before seeing any "glowing" at all. The surface of a tumbled/shined neck should not lose it slick surface appearance.
I've lathe turned and cobbled up several annealing case holders of various designs. The best I've found is simply a small machinests marking scribe, it looks sorta like a small all-metal ice pick. Put the point in the flash hole and spin the case, drop it in a pan of water when the right temp has been reached.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Thanks USMCj
Thanks USMCj
Re: Please critique my annealing.
iNOTE: I do not reload yet and I am researching as much as I can.
So basically from what is said here this guy is heating his brass too much?
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iNOTE: I do not reload yet and I am researching as much as I can.
So basically from what is said here this guy is heating his brass too much?
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/190rC0iTN5M"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/190rC0iTN5M" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Re: Please critique my annealing.
I'd say after the first one is done (and he's pre-heating the next case) it's takes about 2seconds with his torch to the point where I would STOP.
He's taking all the Zinc out the Brass at the point he's taking them...
RJ
I'd say after the first one is done (and he's pre-heating the next case) it's takes about 2seconds with his torch to the point where I would STOP.
He's taking all the Zinc out the Brass at the point he's taking them...
RJ
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Definately NOT like that guy does it...
Definately NOT like that guy does it...
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: krink85</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
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Holy shit! He's going for it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: krink85</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
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Holy shit! He's going for it.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Whoa, what is a BAD thing is the GLOWING HOT part. Holy shit-you practically started a molten puddle.
Seriously, stop talking. YES WE DO AGREE there is a way to do it.That video is the most graphic evidence of how to ruin brass.
If you a full length resizing- I'd advise a Stony Point or similar gauge to measure you fired brass and simply set you dies to bump the shoulder back NO MORE than .003".
I have Lapua 338LM cases with 25 loads that have NEVER been annealed.
Absolutely,positively incorrect. Nice video skills though......
Whoa, what is a BAD thing is the GLOWING HOT part. Holy shit-you practically started a molten puddle.
Seriously, stop talking. YES WE DO AGREE there is a way to do it.That video is the most graphic evidence of how to ruin brass.
If you a full length resizing- I'd advise a Stony Point or similar gauge to measure you fired brass and simply set you dies to bump the shoulder back NO MORE than .003".
I have Lapua 338LM cases with 25 loads that have NEVER been annealed.
Absolutely,positively incorrect. Nice video skills though......
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Ohh im blushing but it wasn't me doing any of that. I have never annealed anything before and wanted to see what it looked like. I was just trying to put a picture behind the words I was seeing.
Ohh im blushing but it wasn't me doing any of that. I have never annealed anything before and wanted to see what it looked like. I was just trying to put a picture behind the words I was seeing.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
While that guy is an idiot for fucking up his brass by nearly melting them, his video will help with what I explained above in a way.
look at him hitting the first case with the torch, notice how after 6-8 seconds the flame touching the case neck turns from blue to orange, that very second it turns orange the brass is annealed and further annealing will soften it too much.
While that guy is an idiot for fucking up his brass by nearly melting them, his video will help with what I explained above in a way.
look at him hitting the first case with the torch, notice how after 6-8 seconds the flame touching the case neck turns from blue to orange, that very second it turns orange the brass is annealed and further annealing will soften it too much.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
"Ohh im blushing but it wasn't me doing any of that."
Don't blush. I 'spect everyone of us have over done the temp, annealing has a learning curve like everything else.
Actually, we can overcome some of the ill effects of dead soft necks by seating closer to the rifling.
"Ohh im blushing but it wasn't me doing any of that."
Don't blush. I 'spect everyone of us have over done the temp, annealing has a learning curve like everything else.
Actually, we can overcome some of the ill effects of dead soft necks by seating closer to the rifling.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigwheeler</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Put the neck of an annealed brass in your caliper jaws, squeeze the jaws with your
fingers (opposite sides of the neck so you don't put any strain on your calipers)
until you squash the neck .002. If it doesn't spring back all the way to it's former
dimension it's ruined or over annealed. I would guess trigger happy did not get his
annealed at all if he used a little butane torch. I can tell the difference right away in
my trimmer if the brass is not annealed but I have no other sure test other than
neck tension when loading. I anneal in a near pitch black basement that is about
50 degrees. With a map gas bottle on the propane torch it takes 8-9 seconds for a
22-250 case to just start to glow maroon at all. That is where I dump it out of the
spinner onto the floor and onto the next. Some guys watch for a little orange kick of flame
up off the brass as their finished signal. Go to a welding shop and get an 800 or 850 degree heat crayon if you have any doubts. Use it until you have your timing
figured out. Any cooler and you won't anneal quickly, and at 900 or so your brass is junk. An Infared temp gun won't work on clean brass unless it can
go well under 1 on the emissivity. Tarnished brass it will, somewhere around
60 or 70.
I would want to see the blue ring about half of the distance from the shoulder from where you have it. But that can vary depending on how quickly
you got it hot.
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bigwheeler,
after reading your post and a lot other ones. I redid my brass rotating it using a drill and that same little butane torch in the dark. After the neck turned a maroon color (only about 10 seconds). I did drop it in H2O.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bigwheeler</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Put the neck of an annealed brass in your caliper jaws, squeeze the jaws with your
fingers (opposite sides of the neck so you don't put any strain on your calipers)
until you squash the neck .002. If it doesn't spring back all the way to it's former
dimension it's ruined or over annealed. I would guess trigger happy did not get his
annealed at all if he used a little butane torch. I can tell the difference right away in
my trimmer if the brass is not annealed but I have no other sure test other than
neck tension when loading. I anneal in a near pitch black basement that is about
50 degrees. With a map gas bottle on the propane torch it takes 8-9 seconds for a
22-250 case to just start to glow maroon at all. That is where I dump it out of the
spinner onto the floor and onto the next. Some guys watch for a little orange kick of flame
up off the brass as their finished signal. Go to a welding shop and get an 800 or 850 degree heat crayon if you have any doubts. Use it until you have your timing
figured out. Any cooler and you won't anneal quickly, and at 900 or so your brass is junk. An Infared temp gun won't work on clean brass unless it can
go well under 1 on the emissivity. Tarnished brass it will, somewhere around
60 or 70.
I would want to see the blue ring about half of the distance from the shoulder from where you have it. But that can vary depending on how quickly
you got it hot.
</div></div>
bigwheeler,
after reading your post and a lot other ones. I redid my brass rotating it using a drill and that same little butane torch in the dark. After the neck turned a maroon color (only about 10 seconds). I did drop it in H2O.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
I use the 650 temp paint on a sacrificial piece and time it till it changes to brown. I also use the deep well socket spinning slowly in a drill with just a little case showing below the shoulder. When I get the timing (4-10 seconds), I pop them into a dry coffee can. I found these little gems on you tube. Not sure if I need either, but I might
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMitsY4t5NU&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93Prf3AOAgc&feature=related
I use the 650 temp paint on a sacrificial piece and time it till it changes to brown. I also use the deep well socket spinning slowly in a drill with just a little case showing below the shoulder. When I get the timing (4-10 seconds), I pop them into a dry coffee can. I found these little gems on you tube. Not sure if I need either, but I might
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMitsY4t5NU&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93Prf3AOAgc&feature=related
Re: Please critique my annealing.
Just a hint here for new annealers
A easy way to check for over annealing is use a neadle nose vice grips and check for spring back at the case mouth. I think by the pics your brass is shot, but check them anyway.
Just a hint here for new annealers
A easy way to check for over annealing is use a neadle nose vice grips and check for spring back at the case mouth. I think by the pics your brass is shot, but check them anyway.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
The second link shows a Ken Light annealing machine. I have one, and it is very nice. In one hour you can anneal around 800 cases. It's easy enough that I just make annealing part of my brass prep everytime I reload. The only difference between the two is the Brass-O-Matic annearler looks like one size fits all. The Ken Light machine you need different plates for the case diameters.
The second link shows a Ken Light annealing machine. I have one, and it is very nice. In one hour you can anneal around 800 cases. It's easy enough that I just make annealing part of my brass prep everytime I reload. The only difference between the two is the Brass-O-Matic annearler looks like one size fits all. The Ken Light machine you need different plates for the case diameters.
Re: Please critique my annealing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Heman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The second link shows a Ken Light annealing machine. I have one, and it is very nice. In one hour you can anneal around 800 cases. It's easy enough that I just make annealing part of my brass prep everytime I reload. The only difference between the two is the Brass-O-Matic annearler looks like one size fits all. The Ken Light machine you need different plates for the case diameters. </div></div>
That's not the only difference.
The Ken Light BC-1000 rotates continuously and spins the brass as the machine rotates which is why you need the different rings.
The Brass-O-Matic doesn't spin the brass and moves from position to position on a delay which leaves the brass sitting in the flame for a set amount of time until it rotates and positions another piece of brass in the flame.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Heman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The second link shows a Ken Light annealing machine. I have one, and it is very nice. In one hour you can anneal around 800 cases. It's easy enough that I just make annealing part of my brass prep everytime I reload. The only difference between the two is the Brass-O-Matic annearler looks like one size fits all. The Ken Light machine you need different plates for the case diameters. </div></div>
That's not the only difference.
The Ken Light BC-1000 rotates continuously and spins the brass as the machine rotates which is why you need the different rings.
The Brass-O-Matic doesn't spin the brass and moves from position to position on a delay which leaves the brass sitting in the flame for a set amount of time until it rotates and positions another piece of brass in the flame.
