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Rifle Scopes Premier Heritage light tactical, 3-15x setting zero

A5scott

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Feb 20, 2017
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Eastern PA
So, I'm trying to zero this optic, it's in a Steiner unimount, that looks like it has zero cant. It's on an AR-10 in 308, and I can't get it any closer than impacts hitting 2.5 mils above my point of aim. The turret is bottomed out, and I can't get it any closer. It has the two little set screws in the turret... Is there a way to move the zero stop?

here is the mount, it's the 5971
https://www.steiner-optics.com/accessories/t-series-ar-mount

thanks,
Scott
 
Plange, Thanks for the tip! So I tried that, just pulling straight up on the elevation turret and it wouldn't budge... whats the toggle lever?

Scott
 
ok Plange, yep understood. I'm thinking the cap has to come off, and there is a mechanism under it

Scott
 
If I remember correctly the LT had a simple 2 hex screw dial but it did have a zero stop. since you are down at zero, loosen the screws on the dial and simply turn the dial up about a mil and lock the screws down and turn down to zero and you should have enough travel then.
 
So I popped the cap off
IMG_1747.JPG
 
I tried to loosen the screws in the center turret, but they seem locked down pretty good, and when I tried the screw on the top/left in the photo the entire center post rotated a couple clicks.

I also see two notches in the center stainless turret, so that looks like spots for a tool to rotate the entire center turret and adjust the zero stop.

So if I'm impacting 7.5" or 2.1 mil above my point of aim, I suppose I want to make this stainless post taller to adjust the zero stop in the right direction

Scott
 
Just so we are clear - With the turret bottomed out on zero, did you loosen the turret screws, dial up your 2.5 mils *floating the turret*, tighten the screws, then adjust back down to zero?
 
Just so we are clear - With the turret bottomed out on zero, did you loosen the turret screws, dial up your 2.5 mils *floating the turret*, tighten the screws, then adjust back down to zero?

So that is what I think I'm gonna do... pop the cap off, then float the internal stainless turret up, and hopefully that will do it. so the internal turret screw clicks must be the same as whats marked on the dial right? So I can turn it like 22 clicks and that should give me the headroom to zero.

also, I'm not sure if those stainless screws come loose. I tried and they seemed torqued pretty well... I think I just rotate the internal screw, and then put the cap back on.


Scott
 
I wish I could be more help Scott, unfortunately it's been too long since I had my LT's but I do remember the zero stop being a pain. Outside of the zero issue, how do you like the scope overall?
 
You may want to reach out to Orkan.
He deals with Tangent Theta (bought the premier rights) and is very knowledgeable about such things.
He can be a bit surly, but he does help many folks out and seems quite the stand up guy.
You can click the members link above and search for him, send him a PM.
 
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Do not touch those screws! Did you do as I asked earlier? There are no user serviceable parts where you are now and you will screw something up. Most of those parts are no longer available.
Did you try to loosen the screws and dial up a few mils then tighten the dial down again?
Then again what do I know? I just built the things for over 10 years.
 
If I remember correctly the LT had a simple 2 hex screw dial but it did have a zero stop. since you are down at zero, loosen the screws on the dial and simply turn the dial up about a mil and lock the screws down and turn down to zero and you should have enough travel then.
This is what I remember having to do.
 
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So that is what I think I'm gonna do... pop the cap off, then float the internal stainless turret up, and hopefully that will do it. so the internal turret screw clicks must be the same as whats marked on the dial right? So I can turn it like 22 clicks and that should give me the headroom to zero.

also, I'm not sure if those stainless screws come loose. I tried and they seemed torqued pretty well... I think I just rotate the internal screw, and then put the cap back on.


Scott


A5scott,

DO NOT DO THAT! What are you doing man haha? You are making this 10x harder than it is. Read the comments from Plange. Post #5 spells it out clearly, as well as #8 from j-dubya.

The only screws you touch are the ones actually holding the turret cap on. All you have to do is loosen those so you can slip the turret (which means to turn the turret without it making adjustments) up 2.5, re-tighten those screws, then dial down to zero. The zero-stop resets itself.

Since you already have the cap all the way off like a maniac lol, put it back on at "0" but don't tighten the screws. Rotate it like you were dialing up 2.5 (or whatever you need to come down) so that it reads "2.5". Tighten the screws to secure it, then dial down to zero. This will pull 2.5 mils off the turret (getting to your zero) and the zero-stop will automatically be reset so you can only go .2 below zero. Ok man, hopefully that is easy enough for you and you can get zeroed and go shooting! That is a great scope. Good luck!

-TSean

P.S. You should look into getting a mount with 20 moa (or 30) to be able to use the full 12 mils of elevation available on the turret...otherwise you are only going to have around 6 "up" left I would think.

P.P.S. Attached (I hope) is the manual for that Premier LT, should you not have one.
 

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A5scott,

DO NOT DO THAT! What are you doing man haha? You are making this 10x harder than it is. Read the comments from Plange. Post #5 spells it out clearly, as well as #8 from j-dubya.

The only screws you touch are the ones actually holding the turret cap on. All you have to do is loosen those so you can slip the turret (which means to turn the turret without it making adjustments) up 2.5, re-tighten those screws, then dial down to zero. The zero-stop resets itself.

Since you already have the cap all the way off like a maniac lol, put it back on at "0" but don't tighten the screws. Rotate it like you were dialing up 2.5 (or whatever you need to come down) so that it reads "2.5". Tighten the screws to secure it, then dial down to zero. This will pull 2.5 mils off the turret (getting to your zero) and the zero-stop will automatically be reset so you can only go .2 below zero. Ok man, hopefully that is easy enough for you and you can get zeroed and go shooting! That is a great scope. Good luck!

-TSean

P.S. You should look into getting a mount with 20 moa (or 30) to be able to use the full 12 mils of elevation available on the turret...otherwise you are only going to have around 6 "up" left I would think.

P.P.S. Attached (I hope) is the manual for that Premier LT, should you not have one.


Thank you for attaching the manual. I was going to do that but couldn't find it. I think either a 10 or 20 MOA rail should suffice for him. I always recommend you dial up when storing your scope for an extended period of time when using a canted rail in order to take some pressure off the erector spring.
 
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Do not touch those screws! Did you do as I asked earlier? There are no user serviceable parts where you are now and you will screw something up. Most of those parts are no longer available.
Did you try to loosen the screws and dial up a few mils then tighten the dial down again?
Then again what do I know? I just built the things for over 10 years.


I think maybe what I said was ambiguous, so maybe you guys misunderstood me.

I didn't do anything other than remove the outer cap with the adjustment click marks (numbers) on it. I did not loosen any Phillips head screws that are shown in the pic.
The internal turret is basically a precision screw right? thats what I was talking about backing off and floating up NOT the little Phillips screws. Yes before anybody responded to this thread, I did try the two centermost screws, but not with much torque. I misunderstood what you meant about floating the turret, leaving the cap on, but we were talking about doing the same action, your way is the easier way. I noticed that the internal turret moves with the same exact tactile clicks as it does with the turret cap is on, so yes, thank you, that's it.

hopefully I'll get to the range in the next couple days and get it zeroed, and post up results.

Thanks again,
Scott
 
A5scott,

DO NOT DO THAT! What are you doing man haha? You are making this 10x harder than it is. Read the comments from Plange. Post #5 spells it out clearly, as well as #8 from j-dubya.

The only screws you touch are the ones actually holding the turret cap on. All you have to do is loosen those so you can slip the turret (which means to turn the turret without it making adjustments) up 2.5, re-tighten those screws, then dial down to zero. The zero-stop resets itself.

Since you already have the cap all the way off like a maniac lol, put it back on at "0" but don't tighten the screws. Rotate it like you were dialing up 2.5 (or whatever you need to come down) so that it reads "2.5". Tighten the screws to secure it, then dial down to zero. This will pull 2.5 mils off the turret (getting to your zero) and the zero-stop will automatically be reset so you can only go .2 below zero. Ok man, hopefully that is easy enough for you and you can get zeroed and go shooting! That is a great scope. Good luck!

-TSean

P.S. You should look into getting a mount with 20 moa (or 30) to be able to use the full 12 mils of elevation available on the turret...otherwise you are only going to have around 6 "up" left I would think.

P.P.S. Attached (I hope) is the manual for that Premier LT, should you not have one.


I didn't loosen any Phillips screws.

thanks for the digital copy of the manual.

20 moa is probably the most it can handle and still get a zero, since it only has 12 mils total.

I'll see how I like the gen 2xr reticle... I may end up flipping it for another Kahles

all the best,
Scott
 
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Nice work Scott! That is a great scope, glad you got it dialed and got out shooting. How are you liking the scope/reticle etc.? Have a good one!

-TSean
 
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Hey TSean, thanks, yeah the glass is really impressive, and the turrets are super smooth and easy to dial. The tic spacing is great too. I don't normally dial wind, but the windage turret needs a bit of getting used to. I'm really liking how light it is, and now that I have the zero set and don't have to hold under, I'm liking the reticle more. I definitely need more time behind it, but yeah it's a pretty awesome piece of kit.
thanks, and likewise!
Scott
 
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