Rifle Scopes Premier Heritage Parallax

M

markspring1978

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 16, 2009
156
1
46
Central Montana
#1
So, I own a 3-15x50 Premier Heritage scope. It's a great scope but my only complaint is that the parallax adjustment has no point of reference. Compared with my S&B 5-25x56 PM2 which has reference points for parallax adjustment, this is kind of a pain. Especially when completing in a timed match where I don't have a bunch of time to monkey around with things like this.

Anyway, Premier recently came out with a parallax dial that essentially looks like a pie shaped wedge. Top of the wedge is the closest adjustment and the sideways eight symbol for infinity is at the bottom of the wedge. In my opinion this isn't as good as the S&B but, I called Premier to talk to them about an upgrade nonetheless. I can't remember what the name of the technician I talked to at Premier was but, it looks like there are three downsides to the upgrade. First, it costs $125.00. Second, he told me that they have to take the whole scope apart to install the dial and he doesn't recommend that because there is a chance that debris could get in the scope when they do this, (this seemed really bogus to me). Third, he indicated that you are just getting a wedge and it really don't help a whole lot.

Furthermore, (and this is where I would like some comment), he said that the parallax for each scope varies depending on elevation, barometric pressure and temperature. Because of this, he recommended that I go to Staples and get a silver fine tip Sharpie and manually write the parallax ranges on the parallax dial based on the environmental conditions in my area.

If this is the case, the only real fixed condition would be elevation. Even this will change depending on where I am shooting the gun. I suspect that these factors are <span style="text-decoration: underline">very</span> minor and I can't imagine that they would really impact the parallax ranges.

I have come to the conclusion that it really isn't worth sending the scope back to Premier for the upgrade. However, I really would like to have the parallax ranges on the dial. I am very insecure with the concept of taking a Sharpie and marking up a $2,500+ scope. Plus, I don't know that I would even be able to accurately range the parallax to start out with.

If anyone out there is familiar with this process or has any comments I would very much appreciate your feedback.
 
#2
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

I have been using a sharpie on my since I got it last year. NOT a big deal. I have had to redo the lines on several occasions due to wear. The upside is if you take your time, the numbers or marking actually mean something to your eyes.

I have yet to use a scope that the marked distances on the parallax are correct for me. I always remark my scopes.
 
#3
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

As far as a sharpie, DUDE IT'S A SCOPE, IT'S A TOOL. NOT A CAR! These things were created to be used and take a little abuse, not googled. I've taken krylon to everything and anything. Electrical tape and 100 mph tape to all. As long as it helps accomplish your task, job, mission, or end state. But a quick tip of advice. I also have taken glow in the dark cat eyes with tape backing and used those to mark my scopes. The only down side is that every now and then you'll have to redo them because of handling
 
#5
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bacarrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can always rub a Sharpie off with alcohol. </div></div>

I heard Jergens works better
grin.gif


I've used a dry erase marker over permanent marker and it came off no problem. It was on type III hard anodizing.
 
#6
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

I have paint pen marks on all of my premiers....and several of my other scopes.

The written numbers on a parallax knob from the factory are to get you CLOSE. You always fine tune to a true parallax-free picture with your eye.

I have been shooting time-sensitive comps with my premiers for 2 years now and have only found the need to place a 100yd mark on the scope as a reference. It gets "returned to zero" like the elevation turret after each stage. Then I just turn it the proper direction while I am on the gun and it adjusts very quickly and easily. I havent found that I am any slower adjusting it than I am with my USOs or other optics. That is probably because I dont really look at their numbers either, except to set it back to 100.

Put some ink on it and be done.
 
#8
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

I have the same scope, and have had the same thoughts as you. However, I've come to the following conclusion,

I'm assuming you run your parallax knob with your left hand, the same as me. With your thumb and index finger on the knob, note the direction your thumb is pointing after you rotate the knob with your wrist, but before you let go to establish a new hold on the knob.

When your thumb ends up pointing away from you, that means you are increasing the distance on the knob. When your thumb ends up pointing back at you, you are decreasing the distance.

thumb pointing down range = bigger numbers
thumb pointing up range = smaller numbers

I use this simple method to ensure I'm turning the knob the right direction, and I then use my eye to fine-tune parallax.

 
#9
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

Markspring1978,
You spoke to me and it is not a bogus thing when you take an already assembled scope apart. Yes, we do it all the time and I would ceratinly do it for you if you really wanted it done.
Scopes are assembled in a carefully scripted way. This is so debris will not enter the scope. When you take it apart all the adhesives that helped hold the lock rings and smaller screws are broken and it is very hard to assure that none of this gets into the scope workings.
As I stated on the phone, I would be very happy to do the job, but I didn't think the benefits are worth the gain (I still don't and I tell customers this) I feel if I can come up with a better solution-even though it doesn't make me money- I have done my job as a service person.
As you can see many people here use the same method and are succesful.
If you decide to do the upgrade then please contact me or if you have any other concerns please don't hesitate to call.
Regards,
Paul
 
#10
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bacarrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can always rub a Sharpie off with alcohol. </div></div>Or drink the alcohol to ease the pain. Keep in mind too that if you're using the scope @ 10X or less, parallax is not much of an issue.
 
#12
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

Thanks for the comments folks. Very helpful, especially Glock.

Popeye, when you start buying my gear, then you can rant and rave about how I care for it. Thanks for your comments nonetheless.

Paul, still not buying the debris theory. However, you work on scopes for a living, I don't. So, I guess I'll have to defer to you on this one. Thanks for your honesty.

Peace out,

Mark
 
#13
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Alpine 338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Another option (or two) is a label maker, or make a lable with paper, mark it in pen, then apply it to the knob with clear tape. </div></div>

That's what I do. I use duct tape as my base layer (much smaller pieces than you'd think), mark it with thin sharpie. I learned that this will run with some sweat on your fingers, so I overlay with clear packing tape. Poor man's BDC and paralax.
 
#14
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

Markspring1978,

I have the same scope and also wanted a parallax indicator on mine and made the same calls to PR and had the exact same discussion with Paul. I literally live within about 10 miles of their facility and have dealt with them on several occassions for various issues and have found everyone of them to be extremely upfront in their dealings.
Paul's issue about debris is absolutely legitimate. His point is well taken in that every time you take an instrument like this apart, there is an inherent, unavoidable risk assumed along the way that there will be an issue. Sometimes the cure is worse than the disease. If you think the lack of an indicator is bothersome, just imagine what your day will be like if a speck of debris appears in the sight picture? As Paul mentioned to you, they will certainly perform the work for you but in the final analysis, you may regret it. Be careful what you ask for. For me, I decided to live with what I've got since it ain't broke, I'm not going to have them take it apart to "fix" it.
The folks at PR are top notch and I certainly appreciate it when a company tries to talk me out of a sale of a service I don't really need.
He's potentially doing you a favor. Just something to consider.
 
#15
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

I've seen any number of discussions on this site about parallax and the fact that none of the markings on any scope are actually correct. I don't own a PH, but if I did I think I'd appreciate that I could put my own there.

Come to think of it I never look at the numbers on any of my scopes. I look through them and turn till it's in focus and the reticle doesn't move.
 
#17
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markspring1978</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks MacDaddy, your comments about Premier are well taken. They make a great scope and I am very happy with it.

Paul, I apologize it you were offended by my comments. </div></div>

Markspring1978,
Not at all sir, I am here to serve you, but sometimes that means explaining potential problems before they come up. All is good.
Thanks,
Paul
 
#18
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

I have no comment about marking the knobs and such that others havnt made, but I like the fact that manufacturers monitor these type boards and respond in a professional manner to customer concerns. Good on you Premier.
 
#19
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

Is it just me or does anybody else find it odd that a company that made its reputation taking apart leupold's and modifying them doesn't seem to want to take their own scope apart for fear of debris contamination? Just an observation that I see as very weird.

OP another option would be to try to find a shop that does laser engraving near by and see if they can engrave the knob with it assembled. Chances are you could have it engraved for less than what premier wants to swap it out, and you can get whatever you want on it.
 
#20
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've seen any number of discussions on this site about parallax and the fact that none of the markings on <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">any scope</span></span> are actually correct.
</div></div>
Sorry but I do not find that to be an accurate statement.

Seven out of seven of my S&Bs are dead on the distance in relation to what is stated on the knob.

Maybe I just got lucky............seven times.
 
#21
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: redneckbmxer24</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is it just me or does anybody else find it odd that a company that made its reputation taking apart leupold's and modifying them doesn't seem to want to take their own scope apart for fear of debris contamination? Just an observation that I see as very weird.</div></div>
redneckbmxer,

Paul isn't here to bullshit you. I'm going to try to describe the problem in simple terms. The threads in a scope are secured with threadlocker/glue to keep them from getting loose under vibration (recoil). If you are changing a reticle, you have to open the scope and pull the erector anyway, which allows decent access to the inside of the scope for cleaning, but that takes time and thus costs money, money that nobody wants to spend for "only" changing the parallax knob. Just removing the parallax/illumination assembly and installing a new one is an easier operation by itself, but it opens the scope tube on the side, with the erector still inside the scope, with no proper possibility to clean out stuff that might have gotten into the tube in the process. If you want to pay for a complete rebuild, it'll be as good as new, no problem, but that's just not to be had for 125$.

I hope this helps to shed a little bit of light on the subject.
 
#22
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

Why is the old scopes different from the new ones?It looks like only the knob would have to be replaced if the scopes were the same.Why was the internals changed to put a knob on there scope with parallex markings.just my 2 cents
 
#23
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markspring1978</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...I have come to the conclusion that it really isn't worth sending the scope back to Premier for the upgrade. However, I really would like to have the parallax ranges on the dial. I am very insecure with the concept of taking a Sharpie and marking up a $2,500+ scope. Plus, I don't know that I would even be able to accurately range the parallax to start out with.

If anyone out there is familiar with this process or has any comments I would very much appreciate your feedback. </div></div>
Seeing that Premier's "upgraded" Parallax Knob has a wedge/ramp indicator on it without numbers, if you really want the distance markings on your Premier's Parallax Knob you really only have one choice - place little dabs of paint or etch numbers in the appropriate places on the knob. Might not be pretty but as long as you calibrate your markings accurately they'll get the job done.

If you decide to go with the wedge/ramp indicator on the Premier Parallax Knob, your best best may be to sell your 3-15X Premier, then order a new 3-15X Premier with the marked Parallax Knob. Cost-effciencywise it might be a "wash", and you won't have to worry about gunk falling into the Erector and other internals during the replacement process.


Keith
 
#24
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jerry R</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've seen any number of discussions on this site about parallax and the fact that none of the markings on any scope are actually correct. I don't own a PH, but if I did I think I'd appreciate that I could put my own there.</div></div>
Sorry but I do not find that to be an accurate statement.

Seven out of seven of my S&Bs are dead on the distance in relation to what is stated on the knob.

Maybe I just got lucky............seven times. </div></div>
I concur with what <span style="font-style: italic">Jerry R</span> said, as my limited experience tells me that what you have read as <span style="font-style: italic">"fact"</span> isn't <span style="font-style: italic">"fact"</span> at all. My <span style="font-style: italic">personal</span> experience with my own two PMII 5-25Xs' is that the distance markings on the Parallax Knob are right-on, <span style="font-style: italic">albeit they are marked in Meters</span>. 100 meters is close to 110 yards and thats' what they worked-out to. Playing with the PMIIs' of several friends has yielded the same results - the Parallax Knob markings are accurately calibrated in Meters. MMV with other scopes, but the PMIIs' <span style="font-style: italic">I've</span> played with have all had accurately-calibrated distances on their Parallax Knobs. I guess my friends and I <span style="font-style: italic">"got lucky"</span> with our scopes too.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Come to think of it I never look at the numbers on any of my scopes. I look through them and turn till it's in focus and the reticle doesn't move. </div></div>
The distance indicators on parallax knobs/rings should be used as quick-reference settings - dial to your desired setting and fine-tune from there. Without any markings on the parallax knob/ring, unless the shooter <span style="font-style: italic">"happens"</span> to know the distance that the parallax is set to, he/she has no idea which direction the parallax knob/ring needs to be turned. He/she will have to turn the parallax knob/ring in one direction or the other to determine the correct direction to turn the parallax knob/ring, wasting time.

This is also not conducive to keeping the shooting eye relaxed because the shooter must spend more time looking through the scope <span style="font-style: italic">while adjusting the focus. <span style="font-weight: bold">At the same time the eye is trying to bring the image that it sees through the scope into focus while the parallax knob/ring is being turned</span></span>. This can cause eyestrain, especially when a shooter is using the scope for extended periods of time.


Keith
 
#26
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

Since we are on the subject I have a question about the 5x25 Premier scopes adjustment range. I asked a coupe people about this and got conflicting answers. My scope seems to have about a quarter turn of usable parallax which doesnt seem right. A couple of people said this was normal and one person said there were a batch of scopes that were like this and I should send it back for repair.

On a side note, I was at SHOT last year and they had the "wedge" style parallax adjustment on the scopes and I believe had a rubberband slip on parallax for retrofit or at least they mentioned it, cant remember.

Any help on this would be a great help....
 
#27
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

The rubberband slip on is a great idea. Paul, if you are still monitoring this, is this something that you are offering or will be? I don't have my hopes up as I would thing that you would have mentioned this...

Also, in my experience with parallax, the range from 10 yards or so to 100 takes up most of the dial. Much more than the range from 100 yards to infinity.
 
#29
Re: Premier Heritage Parallax

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: glock24</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> When your thumb ends up pointing away from you, that means you are increasing the distance on the knob. When your thumb ends up pointing back at you, you are decreasing the distance.

thumb pointing down range = bigger numbers
thumb pointing up range = smaller numbers

I use this simple method to ensure I'm turning the knob the right direction, and I then use my eye to fine-tune parallax.

</div></div>

G24 is on the money with this post! marked parallax knobs are never going to match exactly, and even if you mark your own, you better never turn the diopter a little.....

I do wish every scope had the "turn the top in the direction of distance" away for far way, in for closer in.
 
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