Premium factory barrel vs Match

[dieselcruiserhead]

I'm maybe two years into shooting, mostly 100 yards for now of 6.5 Creedmoor (with intent of getting into long range just haven't gotten there yet), but have gotten consistently sub MOA on a crappy well-worn Savage action but with a Proof Barrel and it was a full on tac driver, dime sized 5 shot groups. Pretty proud of that. I've since sold the gun and am now shooting a Tikka CTR 24" stainless also 6.5cm -- action is sooo much better -- and it's accurate with factory match ammo but the groups are bigger and I'm usually off by one shot in 5. Part of it is the chassis, part of it is the barrel and ammo I suppose.

I'm now at a spot where I'm considering ditching the factory barrel (only 100 rounds) to a match grade, and upgrading the chassis like an XLR element that fits a big tall guy like me better (I had it maxed out with the savage, fit great,) instead of my LSS on this Tikka. I am also starting reloading right now as we speak


Thoughts?

1) worth it to swap a tikaa barrel for a match grade?

2) the does chassis fit make a huge difference? It's close but not 100%.

3) should I tune with hand loads on the factory barrel? Will that do better than swapping out the barrel itself?


Photos are the best I've gotten with the Tikka. It'll get better but not by much I figure unless I somehow get a load that somehow truly works well with the factory barrel. And as mentioned before I could consistently shoot about 1/2 moa with the proof barrel, same (factory) ammo.

Thank you!

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Here is the Tikka if it helps. It now has a killer custom brake from Robinson Precision Rifles in Utah, who is my smith and a fucking awesome understated genius.

 

[mick243]

a better fitting stock/chassis will help

a "better" barrel will also help - but how much is an unknown until you have tuned your load to maximise performance from the current one.

tuning your loads for maximum accuracy is the simplest and cheapest place to start, and you will need to tune loads to a new barrel too...

 

[leclairk]

All depends on how much money you want to spend. An adjustable cheek riser will make a huge difference. If I don’t have that the first thing I do is grab the duct tape and foam pipe insulation and get to work building a cheek rise. You must be able to “go to sleep” on the gun and when you open your eyes, you are still directly behind the reticle. After that look at a barrel. $500 will get you a prefit barrel shipped and installed by a gunsmith.

 

[brianf]

You don’t need benchrest groups for LR but you do need something to get comfortable behind.

If you constantly fighting to get in position and you can’t stay there comfortably watching the wind and such you’ll never be consistent.

In LR consistency is all that counts.

 

[drwood96]

I would start with working up some handloads if you have the means too. Follow that up with the XLR so the rifle fits you better. Upgrade the barrel to finish off the project. The barrel will give you the greatest improvement but is not as important until you start stretching the rifle out pass 100yard on a regular basis.

 

[db2000]

Here’s my Savage Ashbury Precision Ordinance .308. I bought new for $600 on sale.
RL15 44.5 gr and SMK 175

 

[smoothy8500]

3) should I tune with hand loads on the factory barrel? Will that do better than swapping out the barrel itself?

Plain-Jane Remington 700 5R with handloads at 1k: It won't win matches but will hold it's own. If it holds sub-1 MOA, it'll work fine. However, you mention it "throws" 1 out of 5 rounds. It could be a stock/bedding issue.

 

[db2000]

Try FGMM 175 SMK or 185 Berger Juggernaut factory match ammo

Here’s out of my Savage I referenced earlier. 24” fluted heavy barrel.


FEDERAL Factory Gold Medal SMK 175 gr
BTO: 2.261
55F 80% 29.7mmHg
Federal Factory Gold Medal SMK 175
Fed 210M
COL 2.010
COAL 2.805
Magneto 96
2643, 2670, 2658, 2647, 2662
2651, 2661, 2656, 2643, 2656 SD 8.9
0.6” group approximately


FEDERAL Factory Gold Medal Berger 185 gr Jugs
37F 37% 30.2mmHg
Federal Factory Gold Medal Berger 185 gr Jugs
Fed 210M
COL 2.010
COAL 2.802
Magneto 53
2599, 2625, 2635, 2603, 2615,
2621, 2625, 2609, 2620, 2609 SD 11.1
1” group approximately

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Try FGMM 175 SMK or 185 Berger Juggernaut factory match ammo

Here’s out of my Savage I referenced earlier. 24” fluted heavy barrel.


FEDERAL Factory Gold Medal SMK 175 gr
BTO: 2.261
55F 80% 29.7mmHg
Federal Factory Gold Medal SMK 175
Fed 210M
COL 2.010
COAL 2.805
Magneto 96
2643, 2670, 2658, 2647, 2662
2651, 2661, 2656, 2643, 2656 SD 8.9
0.6” group approximately


FEDERAL Factory Gold Medal Berger 185 gr Jugs
37F 37% 30.2mmHg
Federal Factory Gold Medal Berger 185 gr Jugs
Fed 210M
COL 2.010
COAL 2.802
Magneto 53
2599, 2625, 2635, 2603, 2615,
2621, 2625, 2609, 2620, 2609 SD 11.1
1” group approximately

This is 6.5 Creedmoor, are you talking about .308 maybe? Otherwise I really appreciate it. I have searched the crap out of trying to get recommendations on loads. About 140 and 143 bullets seem to do well and 40-41.8 grains of a slower burning powder like a h4350 seem to do well. I have 140 sierra match and game kings, and 150 grain match kings which probably need more twist than the 1:8 I have. I bought them before I knew that. I have a few hundred rounds of brass and primers etc. I'm being taught by a winning competition shooter who has all the tools including a gizmo to measure where the lands are etc. So I should be ok figuring it all out, but we'll see.

Thanks for all the advice, again.

I'm going to talk to my smith tomorrow. I also have a lead on a cheaper never shot match barrel that's a palma light contour that I might just pick up because the price is right. The guy never got around to installing it. Can't hurt. Funny that the chassis will cost more than the barrel etc.

 

[Steel head]

This is 6.5 Creedmoor, are you talking about .308 maybe? Otherwise I really appreciate it. I have searched the crap out of trying to get recommendations on loads. About 140 and 143 bullets seem to do well and 40-41.8 grains of a slower burning powder like a h4350 seem to do well. I have 140 sierra match and game kings, and 150 grain match kings which probably need more twist than the 1:8 I have. I bought them before I knew that. I have a few hundred rounds of brass and primers etc. I'm being taught by a winning competition shooter who has all the tools including a gizmo to measure where the lands are etc. So I should be ok figuring it all out, but we'll see.

Thanks for all the advice, again.

I'm going to talk to my smith tomorrow. I also have a lead on a cheaper never shot match barrel that's a palma light contour that I might just pick up because the price is right. The guy never got around to installing it. Can't hurt. Funny that the chassis will cost more than the barrel etc.

Hopefully that new barrel headspaces correctly.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Yes I hope so. It's a patriot valley and should be good.

 

[Harman117]

I would say (if it's not to late)

1) no barrel change yet

2) change to a stock/chassis that fits you correctly and has the features you want

3) Start load development for factory barrel

How many different ammo types did you shoot through the Tikka? Just because this ammo shot well in your custom savage doesn't mean it will in the Tikka. Handloading will go a long way as far as improving precision. You could save the money from barrel and get more reloading components and practice.

Only 100 rounds down the tube so far: no "need" to change barrel.