I'm looking for something that I can put in the bolt cut out on stocks that would tell me if my bolt handle is contacting the stock when closed. I noticed tonight that on a Bell and Carlson stock for a Rem 700 action that my Zermett RimX handle seems to be stopping short of being fully closed. I realize that it may only be a degree or two and that the lugs should be almost completely locked up, but I'd rather figure a way to open the handle cut out a little more to allow full closure of the bolt.
- Thread starter Marksman
- Start date
That’s what I was gonna suggest
Would Articulating paper work? that colored paper stuff the dentist puts between your teeth to check how your upper and lower teeth contact after he does a filling?
Edit:
Yeah dykem might work also.
Maybe a version of the old dollar bill trick to check barrel free float could work?
Edit:
Yeah dykem might work also.
Maybe a version of the old dollar bill trick to check barrel free float could work?
It sounds like your asking for plain jane carbon paper. If you do a search, it's all over the internet. Walmart,
Target, Amazon, Staples, etc.
I don't understand how Dykem would work unless you plan on doing it wet. As I recall. it dries very quickly.
Plastigauge may be helpful if your trying to get a dimension between two pieces. It's difficult for me to understand exactly what
your trying to accomplish with no photos. It's very cool stuff though I have not used it since 1980.... take a look at " how it works"
Target, Amazon, Staples, etc.
I don't understand how Dykem would work unless you plan on doing it wet. As I recall. it dries very quickly.
Plastigauge may be helpful if your trying to get a dimension between two pieces. It's difficult for me to understand exactly what
your trying to accomplish with no photos. It's very cool stuff though I have not used it since 1980.... take a look at " how it works"
Plastigauge, Plastic Precision Clearance Gauges
Plastigauge is extremely effective for measuring the clearance of a wide variety of bearings which include automotive/machine bearings, marine drive shaft bearings, turbine housing bearings, pump and pressure system bearings, as well as shaft end-float dimensions, flatness and clearance in...
www.plastigaugeusa.com
The point of Dykum is to dry so you can scratch it off when doing layout on metal parts. A bolt rubbing on it would give the same effect
Could you put chalk on the bolt and see where it transfers? Easy clean up too.
I'm well aware of what Dykem is and I even know how to spell it on occasion. From the OPs post, "stopping short of being fully closed"
His description sounded to me like the handle was bottoming out in the stock handle cut out. Therefor not creating a scratching type
motion your describing. I thought #4 Jimmy Jr. had the right idea. "Articulating paper."
Pressure sensitive paper or transfer paper
Smoke (soot), inletting black, Prussian blue, zink sunscreen. Apply thin film to bolt handle. Close bolt, check to see if it has transferred. Any spot that it has transferred to is a high/ contact point.
You can do anything from checking for contact points to inletting an entire rifle by this technique.
You can do anything from checking for contact points to inletting an entire rifle by this technique.
Just sand it down until you’re satisfied?
It’s a b&c stock, not a tiffany lamp.
It’s a b&c stock, not a tiffany lamp.
Inletting black.
Kokopelli Products, the quiet little company from the mountains of northwest Montana
Kokopelli Products, the quiet little company from the mountains of northwest Montana makers of quality gunsmithing tools.
kokopelliproducts.com
Feeler gauge.
Trim if necessary.
R
Trim if necessary.
R
carbon paper, have used it in the past to see how things fit. Some contact cement holds it in place and rubs off without leaving residue.
i watched video of a old time shotgun smith using soot from a candle on the parts to check fitment and file it off.
Pull the bolt and put some soot on it and reinstall.....
Just an idea
Pull the bolt and put some soot on it and reinstall.....
Just an idea
Articulating paper was what came to mind first, but I didn't know the name for it. Which reminds me, I need to make a dentist appointment.
I ended up getting some carbon paper, and used some receipt paper. Then I'd shut the bolt a few times and see where the transfer was. This allowed me to pick away at these high spots rather than just start hogging out too much (which I've done many times in the past).
I ended up getting some carbon paper, and used some receipt paper. Then I'd shut the bolt a few times and see where the transfer was. This allowed me to pick away at these high spots rather than just start hogging out too much (which I've done many times in the past).
Yeah... maybe just a slip of paper in the bottom notch and see if it binds or slips with the bolt closed?
Articulating paper was what came to mind first, but I didn't know the name for it. Which reminds me, I need to make a dentist appointment.
I ended up getting some carbon paper, and used some receipt paper. Then I'd shut the bolt a few times and see where the transfer was. This allowed me to pick away at these high spots rather than just start hogging out too much (which I've done many times in the past).
Awesome!!!!
