Primers

[Coug60]

I’ve been reloading shot shells for a little while now but with the crazy times we are in I have recently purchased everything I need for metallic reloading ie Lyman Turret 8 press, Dies, Tumbler, Media Separator, Powder Dispenser, some brass, Bullets, In-line Fab stuff, and more, I went all in...
I’ve got a Lyman 50th Anniversary reloading book coming in which I’m pretty sure will tell me what I need to know but till then I have some semi newbie questions. Shot shell is so easy…
Primers, specifically for my 38 RUM, Win 45-70 and Win 30-30. In my research I found online that for my Win 30-30 I can use WIN WLR LR or CCI 200 LR. For my Win 45-70 REM 9 ½ LR and for my 338 RUM its REM 9 ½ M LR.
My question is, for my 30-30 and 45-70 can I use any Large Rifle primers (I realize there is a differences in brand quality and match grade) and with my 338 RUM can I use any Large Rifle Magnum primers?
When my book along with some powder and primers I want to be able to dive right in.
Additional, I know what 209 primers usually go for, but in normal times what would one expect the price to be for the primers Im looking for, Im assuming 2,3,maybe 4 cents a primer right?

 

[axarob44]

 

[redbullitt]

Unless you are on the ragged edge of pressure limits, Id likely use cci, sb, win, rem primers interchangeably. Some have cup hardness and thickness differences, so you could see pressure signs with a win primer that may not show up at the same pressure with a harder primer. Another step up can mean pierced primers etc with the softer brand.

Ar15 tends to be suggested to use certain primers, but most people, myself included, use Cci 400s with no ill effects.

If you are loading moderate loads, or back off a hot load a touch to check, I doubt you'd see any issues crop up at all.

In the before times, SB primers could be had for 2 cents each. Cci would normally be under 4 cents each.

 

[Coug60]

Unless you are on the ragged edge of pressure limits, Id likely use cci, sb, win, rem primers interchangeably. Some have cup hardness and thickness differences, so you could see pressure signs with a win primer that may not show up at the same pressure with a harder primer. Another step up can mean pierced primers etc with the softer brand.

Ar15 tends to be suggested to use certain primers, but most people, myself included, use Cci 400s with no ill effects.

If you are loading moderate loads, or back off a hot load a touch to check, I doubt you'd see any issues crop up at all.

In the before times, SB primers could be had for 2 cents each. Cci would normally be under 4 cents each.

Thanks for the info...

 

[redbullitt]

Sure thing. You can generally use the mag primers as well for standard loads of course, provided youre not on the tip top of pressure limits.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Unless you are on the ragged edge of pressure limits, Id likely use cci, sb, win, rem primers interchangeably. Some have cup hardness and thickness differences, so you could see pressure signs with a win primer that may not show up at the same pressure with a harder primer. Another step up can mean pierced primers etc with the softer brand.

Ar15 tends to be suggested to use certain primers, but most people, myself included, use Cci 400s with no ill effects.

If you are loading moderate loads, or back off a hot load a touch to check, I doubt you'd see any issues crop up at all.

In the before times, SB primers could be had for 2 cents each. Cci would normally be under 4 cents each.

OP, one caution I’d have here is to not take this advice as saying you can swap them on your working load interchangeably. If you change a component, you need to work up again. I’ve swapped primers on a recipe because I ran out, I think it was CCI 200 to Rem 9-1/2, and got pierced primers on about 40% before I stopped, about 5-10 rounds in.

If you change anything other than lowering powder charge (as long as you stay above min charge per the manual), you need to work up the load again. Brass mfg, primer, bullet, any of them.

 

[Coug60]

Sure thing. You can generally use the mag primers as well for standard loads of course, provided youre not on the tip top of pressure limits.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking it was that way but wanted to make sure.

 

[Coug60]

OP, one caution I’d have here is to not take this advice as saying you can swap them on your working load interchangeably. If you change a component, you need to work up again. I’ve swapped primers on a recipe because I ran out, I think it was CCI 200 to Rem 9-1/2, and got pierced primers on about 40% before I stopped, about 5-10 rounds in.

If you change anything other than lowering powder charge (as long as you stay above min charge per the manual), you need to work up the load again. Brass mfg, primer, bullet, any of them.

Good to know. I have a the Lyman 50th coming. I don't plan on getting creative (at least not real soon). Ill stick to what works and follow the recipes that are long time tried and true. I do shoot but not regularly. With this COVID craziness Ive become a little bit of a preper now and want to make sure Im ready when the next one comes so Im not caught with my pants down again like this time with limited ammo and not able to get any.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Good to know. I have a the Lyman 50th coming. I don't plan on getting creative (at least not real soon). Ill stick to what works and follow the recipes that are long time tried and true. I do shoot but not regularly. With this COVID craziness Ive become a little bit of a preper now and want to make sure Im ready when the next one comes so Im not caught with my pants down again like this time with limited ammo and not able to get any.

Good plan. I'll say that I almost always end up over the manual max powder charge (I'm using the Hornady 10th edition), seems to me it's pretty darn conservative and also my speeds are always way under what they publish. Learn to look for pressure signs (stiff bolt lift is usually the first, then primer flattening/cratering and so on), those are your actual limits, not the manual weight. I think it's somewhat common in some disciplines to seek out stiff bolt lift loads then run them, but I've never been comfortable with that, esp since ambient temperature increase could make that load suddenly unsafe. Always best to have some safety margin. Good luck!