Progressive loading "match" 223

[Afkirby]

Is anyone here using a progressive to load high quality 223? I've got a dillon 550b setup and was wondering what different techniques people use.

My process using once fire lake city brass will be as follows

1. Deprime, swage primer pockets, and wet tumble (for unprocessed brass)
2. Lube with a lanolin spray
3. 1st run through Dillon 550
Station 1: Lee Universal Decapper
Station 2: Forster Full Length Sizing Die with expander ball removed, set to bump shoulder .004
Station 3: Sinclair Expander Die with .223 mandrel for .001 neck tension.
4. Trim, Deburr and Chamfer on Giraud Power Trimmer
5. Vibratory tumble to remove and leftover lube.
6. 2nd run through Dillon 550
Station 1: Lee Universal Decapper to clear the flash hole, Priming
Station 2: Dillon powder drop
Station 3: Forster Ultra Micrometer Bullet Seating Die

I'm still working up a good 77gr load using a decently metering powder like XBR or CFE223. I'll also be loading up some cheap 55gr FMJ's on the setup for cheap and hopefully accurate plinking.

Since I'm not neck turning I'm hoping that the mandrel expander will set the neck tension fairly well by pushing an inconsistencies to the OD of the neck.

These will mostly be shot out of my AR's, as well as my Tikka T3.

Any tips or tricks from a more experienced reloader?

-Kirby

 

[padom]

I am loading precision 223 on my XL650. I have a Case prep toolhead and a loading toolhead. Pretty much same as your process. Only I have the Dillon RT1500 trimmer with trim die in station 4 that pushes the shoulder back .003 and trims to length then I use a 21st Century TiN mandrel in station 5 to set neck tension to .002"

I drop 23.4g 8208XBR and it is dead on. To get very consistent drops I have done a few things. I use a Whidden Floating Toolhead, I have polished the inside of my Dillon powder funnel to a mirror finish, I have installed the Uniquetek Precision Powder baffle and the Uniquetek Micrometer Powder bar. I weighed 15 charges on my A&D and they were dead on.

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[Horns8491]

hey Padom - what did you use to polish the Dillon funnel?

 

[padom]

I start out with OO steel wool then use a dremel, polishing wheel and polishing compound. Takes some time but was well worth it. I also do the inside channel where the powder bar slides back and forth. Slides like butter now.

 

[Afkirby]

I'm going to have to polish up my measures like that, I think XBR was sticking in the funnel because I would occasionally get powder falling out of the measure as the case was coming out.

 

[MtnCreek]

Padom, do you get consistent drops throughout the measures powder capisity?

 

[padom]

I don't know because your supposed to keep it half full or more for consistent drops so I keep it topped off.

 

[FishDr]

I loaded some 223 accuracy loads recently but didn't have enough "extra" powder to keep it topped off. I loaded out all the powder I had. With the baffle, and polished measure, I kept a close eye on it, and the measure ran very consistent until the powder level dropped below the built-in Dillon baffle. But do keep a close eye on it and pay attention to technique - slow and smooth is key. For MY system, I'm not sure the extra baffle helps much.

 

[Horns8491]

Thanks Padom, I'll give that a go.

 

[BullzeyeNJ]

Tag

 

[TimK]

I tumble and then immediately trim in the Giraud. I had them make me a case holder that works with fired cases. It saves a bunch of time and steps.

Then directly into the 550. I use a Dillon carbide sizing die. I powder by hand with trickled up charges and seat with a cheapo seating die. I get single digit SD's with Varget and low double digits with TAC. All loaded with 77 SMKs.

 

[Afkirby]

Do you trim a little short so that full length sizing will lengthen the brass back to spec? What kind of case lube do you use?
-Kirby

 

[TimK]

I trim 0.010" below spec. I forget now the final dimension after sizing, but it's still a touch short. I try to trim one time, then never again for the life of the brass.

I just switched to Hornady One Shot. I was using Dillon lube but found it to be a sticky mess. I'm running a Dillon size die with a carbide button so I don't need to lube inside the case necks. I try not to get lube in the neck because it fouls up the powder drop.

After loading, I dump them in the tumbler for 10 minutes with corncob to get the lube off the case.

 

[ubet]

Try the whidden tool head from uniquetek that bolts firm to the press, they're about $100 but work great at getting consistent ol to the .001

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[weazer]

To polish the powder funnel, how are your plastic tubes coming off? I took the screws out of mine, but it did not want to budge. I was afraid of breaking or cracking it, so I left it alone. Any tricks?

 

[padom]

The plastic hopper is in tight but just remove the screws and use a spin and pull motion all at the same time. Its wasn insanely hard to get them out. I did 5 of them. They will spin out.

 

[weazer]

Ok, Ill try it. Thanks

 

[jLorenzo]

I was thinking about this today. Don't reload but and close to having enough to get a press, dies and a few other things. Going to want to reload pistol calibers also, as well as 233, 308. Would I benefit starting with a single stage or just go for the progressive? Progressive makes more sense to me, I am mechanically inclined and learn fast. I'm not nearly as intimidated by reloading as I was at first.

 

[padom]

If loading pistol progressive is the only way to go....

 

[Sheldon N]

I was thinking about this today. Don't reload but and close to having enough to get a press, dies and a few other things. Going to want to reload pistol calibers also, as well as 233, 308. Would I benefit starting with a single stage or just go for the progressive? Progressive makes more sense to me, I am mechanically inclined and learn fast. I'm not nearly as intimidated by reloading as I was at first.

I shoot mostly long range precision rifle, some pistol, very little AR. That being said, if i only could have one press it would be a Dillon 550. Does everything I need for precision, is much faster and more flexible, and when I want to crank out some 9mm it really moves.

IMO progressive is the way to go if you shoot with any sort of volume, even if it's all rifle.

 

[myronman3]

i run a dillon 550 as well. as was said, slow and smooth, attention to detail.

can more accurate ammo be made one-at-a-timing it? yes. but the law of diminishing returns kicks in. for me, the dillon loads so well that my shooting is more of the weak link. and i aint no slouch. anyone who says a progressive press wont load accurate ammo is talking out their ass.

 

[RickyRodney]

So you guys with dillon 550-650's with 2 tool heads to load .223 or would a 1050 be better?

 

[padom]

So Ive been experiencing kernels of 8208XBR dropping from the powder funnel onto the shell plate after the case has been charged exited the powder die. Very annoying, 2-4 kernels after every case is charged. Becomes a mess pretty quickly. I just chalked this up to using stick powder with the Dillon powder drop system. Funny I got a PM from another forum member today telling me they had this very same issue with 8208 and asked if I did as well.

I decided to call Dillon and see if they had any suggestions or if this was just the nature of stick powder in a 650....First they said was the typical check your blue wing nut on the powder bar return rod. You are to push the handle forward like your priming a case and hold it there. While holding the handle all the way forward you are supposed to screw the plastic wing nut all the way in till the spring is completely compressed then back it off 1 full turn. That was not my issue but thought I would sure for others than want to ensure they have theirs adjusted correctly.

Next he told me to remove the powder funnel from the powder die and polish the inside of with a Cratex bit attachment in a Dremel. Said Dillon drills their powder dies so there are machine marks in there that can cause the powder to get hung up. I removed my powder funnel and sure enough there were kernels of 8208 hung up in the powder funnel and I can clearly see these drill/machine marks he was referring to. I polished the inside of the powder funnel to a mirror finish then put everything back together and tested it. Charged 25 cases with 23.4g 8208XBR and bingo, no more falling kernels all over my press. I already had my powder hopper polished along with the area where the powder bar slides back and forth. Just never polished the powder funnel itself. I will now be polishing all my powder funnels.

Here's it is before polishing. You can see all the swirled machine marks going down the inside from the drilling process

Only took me 10-15min to polish the powder funnel.


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[jLorenzo]

So are the major brands that make presses fairly similar? Like if I went with Hornady lock n load would I have to use all Hornady stuff? I have a nice digital scale, figured I'd get the press, dies, tumbler, champher tool, anything else I need to get started with bare bones reloading? Still have a lot of reading and research to do before I figure out what system I'm gonna go with. Want to get the right stuff the first time.

 

[Sheldon N]

Want to get the right stuff the first time.

Dillon.

 

[TonyTheTiger]

Dillon.

Truth.

 

[gunsnjeeps]

As to the 1050. Most of the time there is an off press step between the prep and load heads. Could be cleaning cases to remove lube or chamfering the case necks. Dillon has a flat trim.