Rifle Scopes Proper scope set up
- Thread starter bodhisafa
- Start date
Get ready cause this thread is gonna go sideways i guarantee it. lots of opinions on leveling turrets vs reticles and how best to do it. Ill give you my two cents on how i do it and you can go from there. There are some videos on the youtube bit IMO, each one has something that is just fundamentally wrong. For example, the first video that pops up is one from Ryan Cleckner and the NSSF. Lots of good info except he is promoting an old mentality that the scope has to be in the lowest rings possible and as close to the bore as possible. This is just wrong. It does not make for good shooting position fundamentals and usually leads to shooters crooking their necks to get the proper sight picture. this carries over from old weapon systems without adjustable cheek risers.
here goes(trigger warning, lots of punctuation missing and long run on sentences....get over it trolls)
I use a Badger Ordnance Dead Level. This allows me to mount the scope in the wrongs off the rifle. I hang a plumb bob somewhere i can see it at least 100 ft away. place the rings or mount or whatever you are using on the dead level. place the optic in the rings and try and center the elevation turret so the torque pressure is evenly distributed on either side of the mechanism (minor detail, not actually necessary but its just what i do). once you have the ring position set take the scope out and torque the bases to spec on dead level. next make sure the dead level is level (it has a level on it.) this simulates your rifle. put the scope back in and the top caps of whatever mounting system you are using. looking through the scope at the plumb bob, put the parallax all the way to its shortest setting and line the vertical stadia of the reticle up with the plumb bob. focus the diopter so the reticle is as crisp as you can get it. now torque the rings to spec while checking the reticle to the bob often.
Congrats, your scope is now ready.
Adjust the length of pull on your rifle to where you get a nice 90 degree trigger finger. get behind the rifle in a good shooting position and adjust the cheek riser to where you are comfortable.
This next step is easiest with a partner but can be done alone. FInd a spot where you have a distant object to focuse on and put the scope on its maximum magnification setting. while laying behind the rifle put the scope on the gun where the diopter is approximately 3 inches (this is a typical eye relief for scopes and a good starting point) from your eye. Now while in your shooting position, be sure you are looking through the center of the lens, if not, adjust your cheek riser until you are and you are not exerting any force on your body to do so, you want to remain relaxed and comfortable. you may find that you need a diffeent set of rings, higher or lower, to find your sweet spot.
Once you are sure you are looking through the center, next step is to eliminate any shadow. move the scope forward and backward on the pic rail one notch at a time until the black ring around the image is as small as possible (again, do this on max magnification as this is least forgiving). If you cannot totally elimnate the shadow, just be sure that what is there is syetrical all the way around. Keep that image centered in the lens. Once you are good, torque the scope rings or mount to the receiver to spec making sure to maintain forward pressure to seat the rings properly for recoil.
You are done. go do a ladder test to verify tracking and enjoy.
What mount system are you using? What are the rifle specs?
here goes(trigger warning, lots of punctuation missing and long run on sentences....get over it trolls)
I use a Badger Ordnance Dead Level. This allows me to mount the scope in the wrongs off the rifle. I hang a plumb bob somewhere i can see it at least 100 ft away. place the rings or mount or whatever you are using on the dead level. place the optic in the rings and try and center the elevation turret so the torque pressure is evenly distributed on either side of the mechanism (minor detail, not actually necessary but its just what i do). once you have the ring position set take the scope out and torque the bases to spec on dead level. next make sure the dead level is level (it has a level on it.) this simulates your rifle. put the scope back in and the top caps of whatever mounting system you are using. looking through the scope at the plumb bob, put the parallax all the way to its shortest setting and line the vertical stadia of the reticle up with the plumb bob. focus the diopter so the reticle is as crisp as you can get it. now torque the rings to spec while checking the reticle to the bob often.
Congrats, your scope is now ready.
Adjust the length of pull on your rifle to where you get a nice 90 degree trigger finger. get behind the rifle in a good shooting position and adjust the cheek riser to where you are comfortable.
This next step is easiest with a partner but can be done alone. FInd a spot where you have a distant object to focuse on and put the scope on its maximum magnification setting. while laying behind the rifle put the scope on the gun where the diopter is approximately 3 inches (this is a typical eye relief for scopes and a good starting point) from your eye. Now while in your shooting position, be sure you are looking through the center of the lens, if not, adjust your cheek riser until you are and you are not exerting any force on your body to do so, you want to remain relaxed and comfortable. you may find that you need a diffeent set of rings, higher or lower, to find your sweet spot.
Once you are sure you are looking through the center, next step is to eliminate any shadow. move the scope forward and backward on the pic rail one notch at a time until the black ring around the image is as small as possible (again, do this on max magnification as this is least forgiving). If you cannot totally elimnate the shadow, just be sure that what is there is syetrical all the way around. Keep that image centered in the lens. Once you are good, torque the scope rings or mount to the receiver to spec making sure to maintain forward pressure to seat the rings properly for recoil.
You are done. go do a ladder test to verify tracking and enjoy.
What mount system are you using? What are the rifle specs?
I will second everything said above and add that when you get down behind your rifle as if you were shooting close your eye for a few seconds and then open it up as if you were ready to take the shot When you open your eyes you should have a pretty good sight picture you should have to readjust very little at all , another words you shouldn’t have to fight it. Good luck and good shooting congrats on the new scope!
Everything @TacticalDillhole said.
If you don’t have a Badger Dead Level I wouldn’t sweat it. Utilize the level in your Spuhr mount and repeat the above steps. The leveling wedge may seem tempting but through personal experience that wedge does not get the scope level.
I find the benefit to doing the mentioned steps behind the rifle keeps the Spuhr’s bubble in perspective to how your eyes will see it when shooting. As long as the reticle is level in reference to where your eyes perceive the bubble as level, is the ticket.
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