What is the proper way to mount a scope and adjust for paralax?
I would like to hear others way to do this.
I would like to hear others way to do this.
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Rifle Scopes proper way to mount and adjust scope
- Thread starter svi4me
- Start date
Re: proper way to mount and adjust scope
The search function, located in the top left corner of you screen will guide you on scope mounting.
Parallax needs to be adjusted at each range.
The search function, located in the top left corner of you screen will guide you on scope mounting.
Parallax needs to be adjusted at each range.
Re: proper way to mount and adjust scope
Try this...
Go to the forum home page.
click on the Rifle Scopes Page
Scroll down to "Optic Facts" Click that
Scroll down that page you will see "Mounting optics perfectly horizontal"
Shazam!
Try this...
Go to the forum home page.
click on the Rifle Scopes Page
Scroll down to "Optic Facts" Click that
Scroll down that page you will see "Mounting optics perfectly horizontal"
Shazam!
Re: proper way to mount and adjust scope
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SVI4ME</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the proper way to mount a scope and adjust for paralax?
I would like to hear others way to do this. </div></div>
There are several steps involved in correctly mounting a scope. A properly mounted and adjusted scope will be easier and more enjoyable to use while extending usage due to lack of eye strain. Assuming (which is always a dangerous thing to do) that you have correctly measured for optimum ring height and you have the base and rings in-hand, there are four steps to mount and adjust your scope. They should be accomplished in the following order:
(1) Determine correct L.O.P. (Length of Pull).
(2) Determine the optimum forward/aft position of the scope in the rings for best combination of eye relief and "scope picture".
(3) "Level" the scope (make sure that the scope's reticle is square, i.e. the main vertical line is perfectly vertical).
(4) Focus the reticle by adjusting the Diopter.
**I think of adjusting a scope to be <span style="font-style: italic">parallax-free</span> different from the above steps, as they are static, "one-time" things while adjusting a scope to it's parallax-free setting always changes and is thus dynamic.**
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Adjusting the L.O.P. (not always applicable):</span></span></span>
In order to position your scope for optimum eye relief you need to have your head position and cheek weld be consistent and comfortable. Optimally, you should be able to shoulder your rifle and have your eye aligned with the reticle and have a "full scope". The first step here is to ensure that your rifle's LOP (Length-of-Pull) is right for your arm length. A rough rule-of-thumb is to measure from the crook of your elbow to the "pad" of your index finger while your elbow is bent and your index finger is bent as if you are pulling the trigger.
Once the LOP is set you are ready to go about positioning the the scope on the rifle. Please note that depending upon your scope's dimensions and location of saddle/block controls you may have to remove and reposition the rings on the rail a couple of times in order to get the right range of forward-aft travel required for proper positioning.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Determine optimum scope positioning:</span></span></span>
Although some scopes are more forgiving than others, magnification has an effect on eye relief on all scopes (the higher the magnification the less eye relief you will have), so it is generally best to set the scope for best eye relief while the scope is in the middle of the magnification range, unless you favor the low or high range a lot.
(1) Close your eyes and shoulder your rifle. Do this several times - your head should be comfortable on the cheekpiece, returning to the same spot everytime you shoulder the rifle (of course, your head position will shift a bit between prone, bench, and offhand shooting). Place a piece of tape on the cheekpiece to mark your cheek position.
(2) Turn the magnification ring to somewhere in the middle range of of the scope's power - don't worry about adjusting the objective or diopter adjustments right now. Place the scope on a table or other stationary object, then look through the scope, keeping a "full scope" picture. Use your thumb and middle finger to span the distance between the eyepiece and your eye. Note this distance.
(3) Using the tape on the cheekpiece and the eyepiece-to-eye dimension as a reference, mount the rings and the scope on the rifle, tightening the ringtops just enough to keep the scope from sliding back and forth too easy.
(4) Close your eyes and shoulder your rifle. Open your eye, and without changing your cheekweld slide the scope forward or aft until you get a "full scope" picture. Now take your head off the cheekpiece and then re-shoulder the rifle. Do you have a full scope? If not, adjust the scope position until you can pick up the rifle, shoulder it, and have a full scope picture.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">"Level" the scope:</span></span></span>
Its' very important that the scope be level and square. If the scope isn't level you will have a difficult time zeroing the rifle because the vertical and horizontal adjustments won't be able to accurately compensate for the bullets POI. The farther out you shoot the greater this effect will be.
There are various methods that are both simple and accurate. The two most simple (simple is good) and accurate methods I know of are the <span style="font-style: italic">"Feeler Guage"</span> and <span style="font-style: italic">"Plumb Line"</span> methods.
The Feeler Guage method is very easy and uses common automotive feeler guages. Once you've determined and set the stock's LOP and the scope's position in the rings you simply stack feeler guages on top of each other between the scope base and the scope's turret block/adjustment saddle until the gap is eliminated, keeping the bottom of the scope square on top of the guages. Pretty simple.
The advantage of the Feeler Guage Method is that you can level the scope in a confined space, and verifying with a plumb line is optional. As most scopes' won't focus really clearly closer than 50 yards this is a big plus. I still recommend verification with a plumb just to be sure.
The disadvantage of the Feeler Guage Method is that it only works when you are using a one-piece base that has a continous span of rail underneath the scope turret block/adjustment saddle area that you can sandwich the feeler guages between.
The Plumb Line Method is also easy to use, and is the one that I prefer. A plumb line can be made with the most rudimentary items (I use red yarn and a key). Looking through the scope you simply align the vertical line of the reticle with the plumb line. Very simple but extremely accurate.
The advantage of the Plumb Line Method is that it does not require that a one-piece base be used - it works equally well with one and two-piece bases. I use a two-piece 40 MOA base on my Tac Ops X-Ray 51 and can assure you that the Plumb Line Method works extremely well.
The disadvantage of the Plumb Line Method is that you need room to set up the plumb line, and this isn't always possible or convenient (think small house or apartment, or a scope that won't focus clearly at less than 25+ yards).
Once the scope has been accurately leveled, torque the ring tops to the manufacturer's specifications and you're ready to adjust the diopter.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Eyepiece (Diopter) adjustment:</span></span></span>
Adjusting the Ocular Lens (aka the <span style="font-style: italic">"Diopter", or "eyepiece"</span>), on a scope is the first thing that should be done after the scope has been mounted and leveled. Unfortunately, many scope manufacturers' do not provide good instructions or specs on their scopes, let alone the correct way to adjust the diopter. And IMHO, sometimes methods are weak, such as the Nightforce Manual instructing people to <span style="font-style: italic">"look through the riflescope eyepiece at a light colored background such as a white wall..."</span>, which isn't the best way to focus the ocular / diopter / eyepiece.
Why? Because the best way to adjust the reticle is to adjust it <span style="font-style: italic">without distraction</span> to the eye, and the best way to eliminate any distraction is to have nothing else in the view except the reticle. This is why the Ocular should be adjusted while viewing the reticle against a cloudless sky (or at least a clear area of the sky). A blank wall is "OK", but clear sky is best because the reticle will be the only visible object within view.
Below is <span style="font-weight: bold">the</span> correct procedure for Diopter (Ocular/Eyepiece) adjustment for both fixed and variable power scopes. The procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on objects in the view beyond the reticle).
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. <span style="font-weight: bold">Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece</span> (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>. This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
<span style="font-style: italic">Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus.</span> Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, <span style="font-style: italic">except to maintain sharp reticle focus</span> as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
However, if you still cannot achieve simultaneous reticle and image focus after following the above directions for Eyepiece/Ocular Focus, it is <span style="font-style: italic">possible</span> that there is a problem with the scope. That said, it should be noted that <span style="font-style: italic">setting the diopter at the extreme end of it's adjustment range in either direction can affect the image focus.</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">**Parallax adjustment:**</span></span></span>
Adjusting a scope to it's parallax-free setting is easier and faster on some scopes' than others. The external controls play a part here, as scopes with Side Focus Parallax adjustment knobs are more convenient and faster to reach than scopes that have their parallax adjustment on the Objective end of the scope. It has also been said that Objective Focus-type parallax is "more forgiving" than side focus types, but I'm not sure how valid this statement is. I think it can vary from scope-to-scope within a manufacturer too.
Adjusting a scope to be <span style="font-style: italic">parallax-free</span> is similar to adjusting the diopter in that you do not want to look through the scope longer than a few seconds while adjusting the parallax (the reason being that your eye will automatically begin to focus on the target image, and will be "chasing the focus" as the parallax knob is turned, which can strain the eye).
This is why I prefer parallax knobs with reference markings on them. You already have a frame of reference that should be pretty close to the correct distance setting that is parallax-free, so a minimum of time is spent looking through while adjusting for the parallax-free setting. I prefer numbers, but a "wedge" works too - its' just not as quick or intuitive. I've found that the distance markings on both of my PMII 5-25Xs' are pretty accurate - they're marked in meters so I just dial a little "short" of the estimated distance and I'm usually really close. Then I just check the setting by bobbing my head around in the eye box a bit to be sure the reticle remains centered on the target.
I hope this helps. Adjust everything as I stated in the order I stated and you should be golden.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SVI4ME</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the proper way to mount a scope and adjust for paralax?
I would like to hear others way to do this. </div></div>
There are several steps involved in correctly mounting a scope. A properly mounted and adjusted scope will be easier and more enjoyable to use while extending usage due to lack of eye strain. Assuming (which is always a dangerous thing to do) that you have correctly measured for optimum ring height and you have the base and rings in-hand, there are four steps to mount and adjust your scope. They should be accomplished in the following order:
(1) Determine correct L.O.P. (Length of Pull).
(2) Determine the optimum forward/aft position of the scope in the rings for best combination of eye relief and "scope picture".
(3) "Level" the scope (make sure that the scope's reticle is square, i.e. the main vertical line is perfectly vertical).
(4) Focus the reticle by adjusting the Diopter.
**I think of adjusting a scope to be <span style="font-style: italic">parallax-free</span> different from the above steps, as they are static, "one-time" things while adjusting a scope to it's parallax-free setting always changes and is thus dynamic.**
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Adjusting the L.O.P. (not always applicable):</span></span></span>
In order to position your scope for optimum eye relief you need to have your head position and cheek weld be consistent and comfortable. Optimally, you should be able to shoulder your rifle and have your eye aligned with the reticle and have a "full scope". The first step here is to ensure that your rifle's LOP (Length-of-Pull) is right for your arm length. A rough rule-of-thumb is to measure from the crook of your elbow to the "pad" of your index finger while your elbow is bent and your index finger is bent as if you are pulling the trigger.
Once the LOP is set you are ready to go about positioning the the scope on the rifle. Please note that depending upon your scope's dimensions and location of saddle/block controls you may have to remove and reposition the rings on the rail a couple of times in order to get the right range of forward-aft travel required for proper positioning.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Determine optimum scope positioning:</span></span></span>
Although some scopes are more forgiving than others, magnification has an effect on eye relief on all scopes (the higher the magnification the less eye relief you will have), so it is generally best to set the scope for best eye relief while the scope is in the middle of the magnification range, unless you favor the low or high range a lot.
(1) Close your eyes and shoulder your rifle. Do this several times - your head should be comfortable on the cheekpiece, returning to the same spot everytime you shoulder the rifle (of course, your head position will shift a bit between prone, bench, and offhand shooting). Place a piece of tape on the cheekpiece to mark your cheek position.
(2) Turn the magnification ring to somewhere in the middle range of of the scope's power - don't worry about adjusting the objective or diopter adjustments right now. Place the scope on a table or other stationary object, then look through the scope, keeping a "full scope" picture. Use your thumb and middle finger to span the distance between the eyepiece and your eye. Note this distance.
(3) Using the tape on the cheekpiece and the eyepiece-to-eye dimension as a reference, mount the rings and the scope on the rifle, tightening the ringtops just enough to keep the scope from sliding back and forth too easy.
(4) Close your eyes and shoulder your rifle. Open your eye, and without changing your cheekweld slide the scope forward or aft until you get a "full scope" picture. Now take your head off the cheekpiece and then re-shoulder the rifle. Do you have a full scope? If not, adjust the scope position until you can pick up the rifle, shoulder it, and have a full scope picture.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">"Level" the scope:</span></span></span>
Its' very important that the scope be level and square. If the scope isn't level you will have a difficult time zeroing the rifle because the vertical and horizontal adjustments won't be able to accurately compensate for the bullets POI. The farther out you shoot the greater this effect will be.
There are various methods that are both simple and accurate. The two most simple (simple is good) and accurate methods I know of are the <span style="font-style: italic">"Feeler Guage"</span> and <span style="font-style: italic">"Plumb Line"</span> methods.
The Feeler Guage method is very easy and uses common automotive feeler guages. Once you've determined and set the stock's LOP and the scope's position in the rings you simply stack feeler guages on top of each other between the scope base and the scope's turret block/adjustment saddle until the gap is eliminated, keeping the bottom of the scope square on top of the guages. Pretty simple.
The advantage of the Feeler Guage Method is that you can level the scope in a confined space, and verifying with a plumb line is optional. As most scopes' won't focus really clearly closer than 50 yards this is a big plus. I still recommend verification with a plumb just to be sure.
The disadvantage of the Feeler Guage Method is that it only works when you are using a one-piece base that has a continous span of rail underneath the scope turret block/adjustment saddle area that you can sandwich the feeler guages between.
The Plumb Line Method is also easy to use, and is the one that I prefer. A plumb line can be made with the most rudimentary items (I use red yarn and a key). Looking through the scope you simply align the vertical line of the reticle with the plumb line. Very simple but extremely accurate.
The advantage of the Plumb Line Method is that it does not require that a one-piece base be used - it works equally well with one and two-piece bases. I use a two-piece 40 MOA base on my Tac Ops X-Ray 51 and can assure you that the Plumb Line Method works extremely well.
The disadvantage of the Plumb Line Method is that you need room to set up the plumb line, and this isn't always possible or convenient (think small house or apartment, or a scope that won't focus clearly at less than 25+ yards).
Once the scope has been accurately leveled, torque the ring tops to the manufacturer's specifications and you're ready to adjust the diopter.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Eyepiece (Diopter) adjustment:</span></span></span>
Adjusting the Ocular Lens (aka the <span style="font-style: italic">"Diopter", or "eyepiece"</span>), on a scope is the first thing that should be done after the scope has been mounted and leveled. Unfortunately, many scope manufacturers' do not provide good instructions or specs on their scopes, let alone the correct way to adjust the diopter. And IMHO, sometimes methods are weak, such as the Nightforce Manual instructing people to <span style="font-style: italic">"look through the riflescope eyepiece at a light colored background such as a white wall..."</span>, which isn't the best way to focus the ocular / diopter / eyepiece.
Why? Because the best way to adjust the reticle is to adjust it <span style="font-style: italic">without distraction</span> to the eye, and the best way to eliminate any distraction is to have nothing else in the view except the reticle. This is why the Ocular should be adjusted while viewing the reticle against a cloudless sky (or at least a clear area of the sky). A blank wall is "OK", but clear sky is best because the reticle will be the only visible object within view.
Below is <span style="font-weight: bold">the</span> correct procedure for Diopter (Ocular/Eyepiece) adjustment for both fixed and variable power scopes. The procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on objects in the view beyond the reticle).
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. <span style="font-weight: bold">Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece</span> (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>. This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
<span style="font-style: italic">Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus.</span> Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, <span style="font-style: italic">except to maintain sharp reticle focus</span> as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
However, if you still cannot achieve simultaneous reticle and image focus after following the above directions for Eyepiece/Ocular Focus, it is <span style="font-style: italic">possible</span> that there is a problem with the scope. That said, it should be noted that <span style="font-style: italic">setting the diopter at the extreme end of it's adjustment range in either direction can affect the image focus.</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">**Parallax adjustment:**</span></span></span>
Adjusting a scope to it's parallax-free setting is easier and faster on some scopes' than others. The external controls play a part here, as scopes with Side Focus Parallax adjustment knobs are more convenient and faster to reach than scopes that have their parallax adjustment on the Objective end of the scope. It has also been said that Objective Focus-type parallax is "more forgiving" than side focus types, but I'm not sure how valid this statement is. I think it can vary from scope-to-scope within a manufacturer too.
Adjusting a scope to be <span style="font-style: italic">parallax-free</span> is similar to adjusting the diopter in that you do not want to look through the scope longer than a few seconds while adjusting the parallax (the reason being that your eye will automatically begin to focus on the target image, and will be "chasing the focus" as the parallax knob is turned, which can strain the eye).
This is why I prefer parallax knobs with reference markings on them. You already have a frame of reference that should be pretty close to the correct distance setting that is parallax-free, so a minimum of time is spent looking through while adjusting for the parallax-free setting. I prefer numbers, but a "wedge" works too - its' just not as quick or intuitive. I've found that the distance markings on both of my PMII 5-25Xs' are pretty accurate - they're marked in meters so I just dial a little "short" of the estimated distance and I'm usually really close. Then I just check the setting by bobbing my head around in the eye box a bit to be sure the reticle remains centered on the target.
I hope this helps. Adjust everything as I stated in the order I stated and you should be golden.
Keith
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