Gunsmithing Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
- Thread starter mscott
- Start date
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
I use some pieces of aluminum that I salvaged from an un-tapered barrel vise bushing. They work pretty well. Also some masking or painters tape sticky side toward the barrel works as extra insurance. I think people also use card stock, and cardboard.
Dave
I use some pieces of aluminum that I salvaged from an un-tapered barrel vise bushing. They work pretty well. Also some masking or painters tape sticky side toward the barrel works as extra insurance. I think people also use card stock, and cardboard.
Dave
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
Copper tubing connector of the proper diameter with a small slit cut end to end with an end mill will work fine. It can be sprung slightly once split to fit one way or the other. Or like already said above, you can make aluminum sleeves, it just requires more work. Good luck.
Copper tubing connector of the proper diameter with a small slit cut end to end with an end mill will work fine. It can be sprung slightly once split to fit one way or the other. Or like already said above, you can make aluminum sleeves, it just requires more work. Good luck.
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
Copper tubing slit cut as above or brass stock. Its available at most hobby stores.
Copper tubing slit cut as above or brass stock. Its available at most hobby stores.
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
Copper pipe couplings sound perfect and I even have a few. Thanks!!
Copper pipe couplings sound perfect and I even have a few. Thanks!!
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
I think that copper tubing can still damage the blueing as any kind of metal can, allum shim stock would be safer if you place it as you tighten the jaws so as not to allow the shim to rub and move against the blueing. It seems as though I have to tackle this problem weekly and what I have found that works well and is easy is a good thick business card or a cardboard backing from a notebook and like... I won't say its the best way or the only way, Its just how I get down........later
I think that copper tubing can still damage the blueing as any kind of metal can, allum shim stock would be safer if you place it as you tighten the jaws so as not to allow the shim to rub and move against the blueing. It seems as though I have to tackle this problem weekly and what I have found that works well and is easy is a good thick business card or a cardboard backing from a notebook and like... I won't say its the best way or the only way, Its just how I get down........later
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
I use a piece of aluminum can. Just make sure its clean/free of debris. Works great.
I use a piece of aluminum can. Just make sure its clean/free of debris. Works great.
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
Turned soft chuck jaws works fine.
I don't put anything betwen those and the barrel.
Håkan
Turned soft chuck jaws works fine.
I don't put anything betwen those and the barrel.
Håkan
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
paper....it seems to work the best...we use it all the time...
paper....it seems to work the best...we use it all the time...
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
Card stock cut in sections and folded in half for regular barrels. I also tape the barrels with 3m masking tape to keep them from getting scratched going in and out of the lathe if they are already finished. Aluminum shim stock for fluted if your jaws are close to the flutes.
Hope it helps,
JamieD
______________________________
Jamie Dodson
814-262-7994
Wolf Precision
AI Stocks and Accessories
Card stock cut in sections and folded in half for regular barrels. I also tape the barrels with 3m masking tape to keep them from getting scratched going in and out of the lathe if they are already finished. Aluminum shim stock for fluted if your jaws are close to the flutes.
Hope it helps,
JamieD
______________________________
Jamie Dodson
814-262-7994
Wolf Precision
AI Stocks and Accessories
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
I always use the copper pipe with a saw slit cut lengthwise (and file deburred) to allow for flexing to the diameter of the work. I would not recommend any paper product as it is compressable. Moderate torque on the four jaw or three jaw chuck will leave minor copper transfer marks which are readily removed with #000 steel wool and gun oil or Hoppes #9. Torque must be greater than the stress achieved in making the cut. Take light cuts and you can use light torque on the chuck jaws resulting in less copper transfer.
I always use the copper pipe with a saw slit cut lengthwise (and file deburred) to allow for flexing to the diameter of the work. I would not recommend any paper product as it is compressable. Moderate torque on the four jaw or three jaw chuck will leave minor copper transfer marks which are readily removed with #000 steel wool and gun oil or Hoppes #9. Torque must be greater than the stress achieved in making the cut. Take light cuts and you can use light torque on the chuck jaws resulting in less copper transfer.
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
I use scrap copper tubing of various diameters with a length wise saw slit, which I file deburr, to be slightly smaller in dia than the work. Application of chuck jaw torque suffecient to hold work against light of heavy cuts will leave slight copper transfer which is readily removed with #000 steel wool and gun oil or Hoppes #9. I never use paper, wood, lead, or tape, as it is compressable. Tape can be used under the copper to limit marks but keep in mind it will compress and slip under heavy cuts. Soda can aluminum works for light torque, light cuts.
I use scrap copper tubing of various diameters with a length wise saw slit, which I file deburr, to be slightly smaller in dia than the work. Application of chuck jaw torque suffecient to hold work against light of heavy cuts will leave slight copper transfer which is readily removed with #000 steel wool and gun oil or Hoppes #9. I never use paper, wood, lead, or tape, as it is compressable. Tape can be used under the copper to limit marks but keep in mind it will compress and slip under heavy cuts. Soda can aluminum works for light torque, light cuts.
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
I've used cardstock for years on many many barrels with differant finishes and never had a mark or a problem. Installing brakes and crowns never require heavy cuts - this is not production machining. Just don't crank on the 4 jaw like superman : ) and you will be fine. If you are really worried about it, I use aluminum shim stock on the smaller diameter barrels when doing a crown or brake becouse they have more whip with the action on the other end spinning around. I also use HSS so I can turn at a slower speed and get nice finishes with smaller cuts.
Good Luck,
JamieD
______________________________
Jamie Dodson
814-262-7994
Wolf Precision
AI Stocks and Accessories
I've used cardstock for years on many many barrels with differant finishes and never had a mark or a problem. Installing brakes and crowns never require heavy cuts - this is not production machining. Just don't crank on the 4 jaw like superman : ) and you will be fine. If you are really worried about it, I use aluminum shim stock on the smaller diameter barrels when doing a crown or brake becouse they have more whip with the action on the other end spinning around. I also use HSS so I can turn at a slower speed and get nice finishes with smaller cuts.
Good Luck,
JamieD
______________________________
Jamie Dodson
814-262-7994
Wolf Precision
AI Stocks and Accessories
Re: Protect barrel finish in lathe jaws???
The copper couplings worked perfectly on the last barrel for me, so I'll probably stick to them. I've got another one to do this weekend, so we'll see how that goes. I made a spyder for the front of the lathe in place of the 4 jaw chuck, so I only have about a 3/8" brass button for a contact point in 4 spots. I'm guessing that would tear up the cardboard or paper since there is not much surface area.
The copper couplings worked perfectly on the last barrel for me, so I'll probably stick to them. I've got another one to do this weekend, so we'll see how that goes. I made a spyder for the front of the lathe in place of the 4 jaw chuck, so I only have about a 3/8" brass button for a contact point in 4 spots. I'm guessing that would tear up the cardboard or paper since there is not much surface area.
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