Rifle Scopes Protecting my scope from the rings...?
- Thread starter BigBaboon
- Start date
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
If your using quality rings it should not be a big deal.
If your using quality rings it should not be a big deal.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
having the rings lapped helps a lot with that.
having the rings lapped helps a lot with that.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
You guys are being to soft. I've noticed the best way not to get ring marks is by not mounting the scope.
You guys are being to soft. I've noticed the best way not to get ring marks is by not mounting the scope.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
I've never had any <span style="font-style: italic">scratches</span> but ring marks, yes. Every NXS I've owned has had ring marks from the ADM Recon mount when I've sold it and it's not because I've over-torqued the ring screws.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lazy21</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You guys are being to soft. I've noticed the best way not to get ring marks is by not mounting the scope.</div></div>
LoL...I was wondering when someone would pop in with a smartass comment.
I've never had any <span style="font-style: italic">scratches</span> but ring marks, yes. Every NXS I've owned has had ring marks from the ADM Recon mount when I've sold it and it's not because I've over-torqued the ring screws.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lazy21</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You guys are being to soft. I've noticed the best way not to get ring marks is by not mounting the scope.</div></div>
LoL...I was wondering when someone would pop in with a smartass comment.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Buy oversized rings and put bubble wrap or foam in the gap.
Just kidding - as has been said, good rings + following the instructions = no scratches.
Buy oversized rings and put bubble wrap or foam in the gap.
Just kidding - as has been said, good rings + following the instructions = no scratches.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Optilocks use a nylon shim which don't leave any marks on the rings, don't slip either. However I use Seekins and Badger too and never seen any ring marks when correctly mounted and torqued down.
Optilocks use a nylon shim which don't leave any marks on the rings, don't slip either. However I use Seekins and Badger too and never seen any ring marks when correctly mounted and torqued down.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Burris Z rings also have inserts/shims..no ring marks.
Burris Z rings also have inserts/shims..no ring marks.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/4509043/Elecrtic_tape_lined_rings
There is a lot of info on electric tape.
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/4509043/Elecrtic_tape_lined_rings
There is a lot of info on electric tape.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
I have used several pairs of Burris XTR rings on Leupold, Sightron and Nightforce scopes and never had scratches or ring marks on any of the scopes and never had to rezero any of them ( I did have to lap one set of rings ) this rings were on a .308 an AR-30 .300 wm and a .338 lapua mag, I recently purchased 3 sets of badger ordnance to replace the XTR's, I have replaced two of them and the new rings matched really nice and no lapping was needed, I marked each one of the pairs with a sharpie to keep the lower and upper parts together exactly like they came from the factory, I torqued them according to factory specs( 15 lbs / 65 lbs). I don't know if the badger rings will or have scratched any of the scopes but if you are concerned with it try the Burris XTR's and don't worry about scratches, I have remove scopes many times and still use a few pairs on my AR's and never seen marks on any of the scopes.
I have used several pairs of Burris XTR rings on Leupold, Sightron and Nightforce scopes and never had scratches or ring marks on any of the scopes and never had to rezero any of them ( I did have to lap one set of rings ) this rings were on a .308 an AR-30 .300 wm and a .338 lapua mag, I recently purchased 3 sets of badger ordnance to replace the XTR's, I have replaced two of them and the new rings matched really nice and no lapping was needed, I marked each one of the pairs with a sharpie to keep the lower and upper parts together exactly like they came from the factory, I torqued them according to factory specs( 15 lbs / 65 lbs). I don't know if the badger rings will or have scratched any of the scopes but if you are concerned with it try the Burris XTR's and don't worry about scratches, I have remove scopes many times and still use a few pairs on my AR's and never seen marks on any of the scopes.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Just get quality rings { Badger,Seekins,Nightforce Etc } and torque to spec and you'll be good to go
Just get quality rings { Badger,Seekins,Nightforce Etc } and torque to spec and you'll be good to go
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBaboon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a Zeiss scope, and Warne QD rings for it. Hoping not to damage / scratch up my Zeiss, cuz it wasn't cheap.</div></div>
I know the felling, after reading the scratched nightforce thread. I design/patent a scope protector, send me a pm if you're interested in one.
The one in the pic also has the new recoil PAD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBaboon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a Zeiss scope, and Warne QD rings for it. Hoping not to damage / scratch up my Zeiss, cuz it wasn't cheap.</div></div>
I know the felling, after reading the scratched nightforce thread. I design/patent a scope protector, send me a pm if you're interested in one.
The one in the pic also has the new recoil PAD
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JMT38S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have used several pairs of Burris XTR rings on Leupold, Sightron and Nightforce scopes and never had scratches or ring marks on any of the scopes and never had to rezero any of them ( I did have to lap one set of rings ) this rings were on a .308 an AR-30 .300 wm and a .338 lapua mag, I recently purchased 3 sets of badger ordnance to replace the XTR's, I have replaced two of them and the new rings matched really nice and no lapping was needed, I marked each one of the pairs with a sharpie to keep the lower and upper parts together exactly like they came from the factory, I torqued them according to factory specs( 15 lbs / 65 lbs). I don't know if the badger rings will or have scratched any of the scopes but if you are concerned with it try the Burris XTR's and don't worry about scratches, I have remove scopes many times and still use a few pairs on my AR's and never seen marks on any of the scopes. </div></div>
That is inch pounds on the torque specs. I would hate to see someone over do it when tightening the mounts.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JMT38S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have used several pairs of Burris XTR rings on Leupold, Sightron and Nightforce scopes and never had scratches or ring marks on any of the scopes and never had to rezero any of them ( I did have to lap one set of rings ) this rings were on a .308 an AR-30 .300 wm and a .338 lapua mag, I recently purchased 3 sets of badger ordnance to replace the XTR's, I have replaced two of them and the new rings matched really nice and no lapping was needed, I marked each one of the pairs with a sharpie to keep the lower and upper parts together exactly like they came from the factory, I torqued them according to factory specs( 15 lbs / 65 lbs). I don't know if the badger rings will or have scratched any of the scopes but if you are concerned with it try the Burris XTR's and don't worry about scratches, I have remove scopes many times and still use a few pairs on my AR's and never seen marks on any of the scopes. </div></div>
That is inch pounds on the torque specs. I would hate to see someone over do it when tightening the mounts.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
female snipers will like that protection
female snipers will like that protection
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lazy21</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBaboon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a Zeiss scope, and Warne QD rings for it. Hoping not to damage / scratch up my Zeiss, cuz it wasn't cheap.</div></div>
I know the felling, after reading the scratched nightforce thread. I design/patent a scope protector, send me a pm if you're interested in one.
The one in the pic also has the new recoil PAD </div></div>
Another great design for protection inspired by the "Scratched Nightforce" thread. Nice work Lazy, good stuff
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lazy21</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBaboon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a Zeiss scope, and Warne QD rings for it. Hoping not to damage / scratch up my Zeiss, cuz it wasn't cheap.</div></div>
I know the felling, after reading the scratched nightforce thread. I design/patent a scope protector, send me a pm if you're interested in one.
The one in the pic also has the new recoil PAD </div></div>
Another great design for protection inspired by the "Scratched Nightforce" thread. Nice work Lazy, good stuff
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
My Seekins rings have never left any marks.
My Seekins rings have never left any marks.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArmchairElite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My Seekins rings have never left any marks. </div></div>
As far as high end rings go I have had and used several sets of the Mark 4's and Badgers and recently got a set from Seekins. Out of those three Seekins are the best fit to a scope I have seen by a long shot. I would be shocked to hear from anyone who said they had ring marks after removing a new scope from them and if you did there has to be something bad wrong with your rail. I just got my first pair a few weeks ago and wish I had more.
As far as mounts go I used a Larue LT104 for a few years without leaving a mark. I have also used a Noveske branded ADM mount with the solid rings that did not scar the scope.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArmchairElite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My Seekins rings have never left any marks. </div></div>
As far as high end rings go I have had and used several sets of the Mark 4's and Badgers and recently got a set from Seekins. Out of those three Seekins are the best fit to a scope I have seen by a long shot. I would be shocked to hear from anyone who said they had ring marks after removing a new scope from them and if you did there has to be something bad wrong with your rail. I just got my first pair a few weeks ago and wish I had more.
As far as mounts go I used a Larue LT104 for a few years without leaving a mark. I have also used a Noveske branded ADM mount with the solid rings that did not scar the scope.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
as has been said, the seekins, badgerare great high quality rings, i`ll throw another out , american rifle company rings, unique design, worth a look
as has been said, the seekins, badgerare great high quality rings, i`ll throw another out , american rifle company rings, unique design, worth a look
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lazy21</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBaboon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a Zeiss scope, and Warne QD rings for it. Hoping not to damage / scratch up my Zeiss, cuz it wasn't cheap.</div></div>
I know the felling, after reading the scratched nightforce thread. I design/patent a scope protector, send me a pm if you're interested in one.
The one in the pic also has the new recoil PAD </div></div>
You forgot one on the shell deflector LOL!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lazy21</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBaboon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a Zeiss scope, and Warne QD rings for it. Hoping not to damage / scratch up my Zeiss, cuz it wasn't cheap.</div></div>
I know the felling, after reading the scratched nightforce thread. I design/patent a scope protector, send me a pm if you're interested in one.
The one in the pic also has the new recoil PAD </div></div>
You forgot one on the shell deflector LOL!
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Quality rings leave no trail . . . or marks, if they are torqued properly. I have been using Badger on 1" (w/ inserts), 30mm, and 34mm optics - none have slipped or have ring marks.
Kevin
Quality rings leave no trail . . . or marks, if they are torqued properly. I have been using Badger on 1" (w/ inserts), 30mm, and 34mm optics - none have slipped or have ring marks.
Kevin
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Lapping the rings will both make a more solid mount and protect your scope.
How i did it:
Lapped my TPS 34mm steel rings by making a bolt to the same diameter as my PM2 (33,8mm). Then i mounted the scope rings to my rail and tightened them good. I applied lapping compound (150grit, but could be finer). and rotated the bolt to grind the rings.
Make sure the rings are totally straight on the rail, by pushing it forward so the recoil lug rests in the groove.
Add lapping compound:
Mark the upper parts of the ring, this is IMPORTANT!
Rotated back and forth 10 times and cleaned to check. As you can see the rings werent straigt at my rail. i felt this when i mounted my scope the first time, and that is why i went through with the lapping process.
Upper part:
Repeat: clean, check, add new lapping compound, rotate and tighten the rings. Make sure you dont take off to much material, so it wont tighen on your scope!
Third time's the charmed:
About 80% of the surface treatment is gone, and im positiv the scope will rest much better in the rings now.
The bolt after the treatment. I used soft construction steel for the bolt, so the particles would get stuck in the metal and grind the rings. It could have been even softer metal, like copper or aluminium, but this steel was all i had.
Then i mounted the scope again leveling it to the rail like this:
Lapping the rings will both make a more solid mount and protect your scope.
How i did it:
Lapped my TPS 34mm steel rings by making a bolt to the same diameter as my PM2 (33,8mm). Then i mounted the scope rings to my rail and tightened them good. I applied lapping compound (150grit, but could be finer). and rotated the bolt to grind the rings.
Make sure the rings are totally straight on the rail, by pushing it forward so the recoil lug rests in the groove.
Add lapping compound:
Mark the upper parts of the ring, this is IMPORTANT!
Rotated back and forth 10 times and cleaned to check. As you can see the rings werent straigt at my rail. i felt this when i mounted my scope the first time, and that is why i went through with the lapping process.
Upper part:
Repeat: clean, check, add new lapping compound, rotate and tighten the rings. Make sure you dont take off to much material, so it wont tighen on your scope!
Third time's the charmed:
About 80% of the surface treatment is gone, and im positiv the scope will rest much better in the rings now.
The bolt after the treatment. I used soft construction steel for the bolt, so the particles would get stuck in the metal and grind the rings. It could have been even softer metal, like copper or aluminium, but this steel was all i had.
Then i mounted the scope again leveling it to the rail like this:
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
biadhesive tape is protected with a plastic peeling tape: discard the biadhesive tape, and save four strips of protecting plastic tape, cutting them a little less than the size of the half rings_ i'ts very thin,and if,with a bit of patience,you slip them between the scope and the 4 half-rings,you can adjust yous scope and the rings without fear of scratching_let the strips "hidden" between scope and rings, and tighten the screws as ever: nothing will slip,scratch,distort,or move_ in my trials,at today on .308 and 8x57 rifles,and .44mag. scoped revolvers, works_
biadhesive tape is protected with a plastic peeling tape: discard the biadhesive tape, and save four strips of protecting plastic tape, cutting them a little less than the size of the half rings_ i'ts very thin,and if,with a bit of patience,you slip them between the scope and the 4 half-rings,you can adjust yous scope and the rings without fear of scratching_let the strips "hidden" between scope and rings, and tighten the screws as ever: nothing will slip,scratch,distort,or move_ in my trials,at today on .308 and 8x57 rifles,and .44mag. scoped revolvers, works_
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coach482</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good presentation. What are you using for the bar stock and are you buying it the right outer diameter, or turning it down? I don't have access to a lathe. </div></div>
Thank you. I used a 40mm cylinder that i turned down. You can also buy kits for this, just google it. Im not sure how good quality the different brands are, and it is a very easy thing to make if you have a lathe.
The most important thing is to check often so you dont take away too much material. Also i would recommend turning it around rather than to move it back and forth so it'll hold better during recoil.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coach482</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good presentation. What are you using for the bar stock and are you buying it the right outer diameter, or turning it down? I don't have access to a lathe. </div></div>
Thank you. I used a 40mm cylinder that i turned down. You can also buy kits for this, just google it. Im not sure how good quality the different brands are, and it is a very easy thing to make if you have a lathe.
The most important thing is to check often so you dont take away too much material. Also i would recommend turning it around rather than to move it back and forth so it'll hold better during recoil.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Your post begs the question...Why the $60 rings with the $3000 scope? The cost and time you spent lapping them would have been more than made up for by purchasing good rings and skipping the lapping. 6 S & Bs, DOZENS of times on and off different rifles, Seekins Rings, Larue Mounts and AI Mounts. Never lapped ANYTHING. Never bedded a scope base. SEEKONK TORQUE WRENCHES. Never had a hint of a a ring mark.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sirhitalot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Lapping the rings will both make a more solid mount and protect your scope.
How i did it:
Lapped my TPS 34mm steel rings by making a bolt to the same diameter as my PM2 (33,8mm). Then i mounted the scope rings to my rail and tightened them good. I applied lapping compound (150grit, but could be finer). and rotated the bolt to grind the rings.
Make sure the rings are totally straight on the rail, by pushing it forward so the recoil lug rests in the groove.
Add lapping compound:
Mark the upper parts of the ring, this is IMPORTANT!
Rotated back and forth 10 times and cleaned to check. As you can see the rings werent straigt at my rail. i felt this when i mounted my scope the first time, and that is why i went through with the lapping process.
Upper part:
Repeat: clean, check, add new lapping compound, rotate and tighten the rings. Make sure you dont take off to much material, so it wont tighen on your scope!
Third time's the charmed:
About 80% of the surface treatment is gone, and im positiv the scope will rest much better in the rings now.
The bolt after the treatment. I used soft construction steel for the bolt, so the particles would get stuck in the metal and grind the rings. It could have been even softer metal, like copper or aluminium, but this steel was all i had.
Then i mounted the scope again leveling it to the rail like this:
</div></div>
Your post begs the question...Why the $60 rings with the $3000 scope? The cost and time you spent lapping them would have been more than made up for by purchasing good rings and skipping the lapping. 6 S & Bs, DOZENS of times on and off different rifles, Seekins Rings, Larue Mounts and AI Mounts. Never lapped ANYTHING. Never bedded a scope base. SEEKONK TORQUE WRENCHES. Never had a hint of a a ring mark.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sirhitalot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Lapping the rings will both make a more solid mount and protect your scope.
How i did it:
Lapped my TPS 34mm steel rings by making a bolt to the same diameter as my PM2 (33,8mm). Then i mounted the scope rings to my rail and tightened them good. I applied lapping compound (150grit, but could be finer). and rotated the bolt to grind the rings.
Make sure the rings are totally straight on the rail, by pushing it forward so the recoil lug rests in the groove.
Add lapping compound:
Mark the upper parts of the ring, this is IMPORTANT!
Rotated back and forth 10 times and cleaned to check. As you can see the rings werent straigt at my rail. i felt this when i mounted my scope the first time, and that is why i went through with the lapping process.
Upper part:
Repeat: clean, check, add new lapping compound, rotate and tighten the rings. Make sure you dont take off to much material, so it wont tighen on your scope!
Third time's the charmed:
About 80% of the surface treatment is gone, and im positiv the scope will rest much better in the rings now.
The bolt after the treatment. I used soft construction steel for the bolt, so the particles would get stuck in the metal and grind the rings. It could have been even softer metal, like copper or aluminium, but this steel was all i had.
Then i mounted the scope again leveling it to the rail like this:
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
I don't subject my firearms to the kind of treatment a good set of tactical rings is designed to endure. I guess we can call my rifles Range Queens.
I have never had any kind of problem using Burris Signature Zee rings. Their inserts align with the scope tube to prevent stress and indentationss. The inserts are also available with some offset MOA values, and can not only help with elevation/slope modification, but also with correcting bore axis/base windage misalignments.
Greg
I don't subject my firearms to the kind of treatment a good set of tactical rings is designed to endure. I guess we can call my rifles Range Queens.
I have never had any kind of problem using Burris Signature Zee rings. Their inserts align with the scope tube to prevent stress and indentationss. The inserts are also available with some offset MOA values, and can not only help with elevation/slope modification, but also with correcting bore axis/base windage misalignments.
Greg
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 19Scout77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your post begs the question...Why the $60 rings with the $3000 scope? The cost and time you spent lapping them would have been more than made up for by purchasing good rings and skipping the lapping. 6 S & Bs, DOZENS of times on and off different rifles, Seekins Rings, Larue Mounts and AI Mounts. Never lapped ANYTHING. Never bedded a scope base. SEEKONK TORQUE WRENCHES. Never had a hint of a a ring mark.
</div></div>
They cost about 115 dollars, not 60. The reason for why i use them is that i have weaver slots in my rail. I originally had a set of Recknagel (ERA) QR rings, but they were ment for picatinny. So either i had to machine my base or i got a new set of rings. They seems to be good quality and ive hear a lot of positive things about them.
They didnt leave a mark when i mounted them, but i felt that something was a bit off. Even though you might think there is no kind of bending stressing your scope there might be. It isnt hard to do it either.
The lapping just cost me a couple of dollars for the lapping compound, as i got the materials from my university. I like making my own stuff, and i dont mind using an hour getting more experience and think about something other than my next exam.
I dare you to find a set of rings that will show the exact same wear over 100% of the surface when you do the lapping.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 19Scout77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your post begs the question...Why the $60 rings with the $3000 scope? The cost and time you spent lapping them would have been more than made up for by purchasing good rings and skipping the lapping. 6 S & Bs, DOZENS of times on and off different rifles, Seekins Rings, Larue Mounts and AI Mounts. Never lapped ANYTHING. Never bedded a scope base. SEEKONK TORQUE WRENCHES. Never had a hint of a a ring mark.
</div></div>
They cost about 115 dollars, not 60. The reason for why i use them is that i have weaver slots in my rail. I originally had a set of Recknagel (ERA) QR rings, but they were ment for picatinny. So either i had to machine my base or i got a new set of rings. They seems to be good quality and ive hear a lot of positive things about them.
They didnt leave a mark when i mounted them, but i felt that something was a bit off. Even though you might think there is no kind of bending stressing your scope there might be. It isnt hard to do it either.
The lapping just cost me a couple of dollars for the lapping compound, as i got the materials from my university. I like making my own stuff, and i dont mind using an hour getting more experience and think about something other than my next exam.
I dare you to find a set of rings that will show the exact same wear over 100% of the surface when you do the lapping.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Sorry, the one time I looked at them a few years back they used to run right at $60-75.
TPS were the only rings that would work with your rail? That is a darned good reason to use them
I have no knowledge whatsoever re: 100% contact...as a good set of rings, a good base and a good torque wrench have provided quite satisfactory results.
Sorry, the one time I looked at them a few years back they used to run right at $60-75.
TPS were the only rings that would work with your rail? That is a darned good reason to use them
I have no knowledge whatsoever re: 100% contact...as a good set of rings, a good base and a good torque wrench have provided quite satisfactory results.
Re: Protecting my scope from the rings...?
Whatever you do, buy a proper in-lb torque wrench and torque the screws properly to the manufacturer's specs. Don't cheap out and tighten them by hand just because the torque wrench is expensive. No point in mounting a precision instrument in a half-assed way. Plus, damaging your scope will cost you a lot more than the cost of a torque wrench.
Whatever you do, buy a proper in-lb torque wrench and torque the screws properly to the manufacturer's specs. Don't cheap out and tighten them by hand just because the torque wrench is expensive. No point in mounting a precision instrument in a half-assed way. Plus, damaging your scope will cost you a lot more than the cost of a torque wrench.
