So I just ordered a few things to upgrade my Remington 700 in .308! Bought a Choate tactical stock inletted for DBM off of combat stocks. From Midway, I picked up a PTG stealth DBM and an AI 10 Round mag. I also bought a EGW 20 MOA mount and Weaver Tactical 6 Screw rings. Pretty anxious for it all to get here! Anyways, many of you guys on this site have put together a good number of rifles, and this is my first one. Putting it all together seems pretty self explanatory, but I know that looks can be deceiving. Anything I need to look out for when putting it all together? How about bedding the base? Proper torquing? Gypsy magic spells for luck? Just wondering if its easy as screwing everything together or if its more complicated than that! Been managing 1 moa groups with a bone stock 700 varmint ADL I got from a dicks black friday special! Hoping to have a rig I can use and improve on in years to come. Thanks for any help!
Gunsmithing Putting My 700 Together...
- Thread starter Rebel
- Start date
The lack of response makes me think I might be making this a bit more complicated than it needs to be 
What DBM do they inlet for ?
I have the same rifle from a few years back and am just getting around to doing my build. I did pick up the Wheeler scope mounting kit. The FAT wrench in the kit is good to have for torquing in inch pounds. I googled torque specs for precision rifles to use as a guide for rings, base, and stock. I also lapped my scope rings. Lapping the rings will give you a more precise fit and help to keep from getting scope ring marks on your scope. I got a Hogue stock from a buddy to replace the plastic one that came with the rifle, not much of an improvement. I did upgrade the magazine system to the BDL-style changing to that stock and I'll probably stay with the BDL for now. I'm not looking to compete. I just want to work on the skills of making long shots. It's a skill I've always wanted to pursue. I'm still putting the funds together for a better stock and a Timney trigger. I have been reloading for pistol for a while and am just getting into reloading for my 700 Varmint. It's been a lot of fun working up loads. I'm using IMR 4064, IMR 4895 and BL-C(2) and 168 Nosler CCs right now. I've been getting sub-MOA with my reloads, which is really cool. There are several threads in the reloading section to read through. If you aren't reloading, you need to look into starting. To me, that's a big part of the enjoyment of shooting these rifles and you save some money so can shoot more!
Here's mine as it sits right now -
Here's mine as it sits right now -
Badger M5. You can buy one pre inletted from a couple other places but combat stocks and a place called tactical works sold for about 225 where as every one else sold for 270. Tactical works sold it in a nice little package with the bottom metal but I got tired of waiting for them to be in stock. Glad I did... Ordering off midway gave me an excuse to buy the rings and base ?
I have the same rifle from a few years back and am just getting around to doing my build. I did pick up the Wheeler scope mounting kit. The FAT wrench in the kit is good to have for torquing in inch pounds. I googled torque specs for precision rifles to use as a guide for rings, base, and stock. I also lapped my scope rings. Lapping the rings will give you a more precise fit and help to keep from getting scope ring marks on your scope. I got a Hogue stock from a buddy to replace the plastic one that came with the rifle, not much of an improvement. I did upgrade the magazine system to the BDL-style changing to that stock and I'll probably stay with the BDL for now. I'm not looking to compete. I just want to work on the skills of making long shots. It's a skill I've always wanted to pursue. I'm still putting the funds together for a better stock and a Timney trigger. I have been reloading for pistol for a while and am just getting into reloading for my 700 Varmint. It's been a lot of fun working up loads. I'm using IMR 4064, IMR 4895 and BL-C(2) and 168 Nosler CCs right now. I've been getting sub-MOA with my reloads, which is really cool. There are several threads in the reloading section to read through. If you aren't reloading, you need to look into starting. To me, that's a big part of the enjoyment of shooting these rifles and you save some money so can shoot more!
Here's mine as it sits right now -
yeah right now im trying to find torque tools! I might just borrow them from a friend though. Reloading is out of my reach right now. Too much time and money I just dont have at this point.
The lack of response makes me think I might be making this a bit more complicated than it needs to be
You're not making it more complicated, since this is your first time putting everything together. It's simple once you've done a bunch of times, but at first you're concerned that you're doing everything right. I have never used a Choate stock, so I will defer to anyone with more knowledge, but I'm pretty sure bolting the barreled action will be no different than a factory stock, H-S, or Manners. Bedding is another thing altogether. I know guys can do the bedding by themselves, but I prefer to let my local smith bed it for me.
Bedding the Choate may prove difficult. If it is a typical plastic molded Choate getting the bedding compound to stick to the stock is the trick. Every plastic stock I have seen that was bedded eventually popped the bedding loose.
Personally I won't bed a molded plastic stock.
Personally I won't bed a molded plastic stock.
the tactical has an aluminum bedding block, so im not quite sure I will see noticeable gain from glass bedding. But if I were to do it, I could cut reliefs to give the epoxy better mechanical lock right? Would you recommend bedding the the scope base? From what I've seen it isn't too difficult, and I think I could handle it myself.
Also the weaver rings I got are extra highs. Forget the exact numbers but the rings I had on my rifle before were having clearance problems with my bolt handle and my scope. Willthe extra highs on a 20 moa egw rail be too high? Im running a Nikon monarch 4-16x42
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Only bed the scope base if it needs it. Mount it using just the front screws and just snug them. If the rear of the base is not contacting the receiver then bed it.
Seeing how the stock has the block, if you want to bed something then do just the recoil lug.
Seeing how the stock has the block, if you want to bed something then do just the recoil lug.
Its not too tough at all. Just dint over torque anything and you'll be fine. I like to have a torque wrench but did fine without one for a long time. Let us know how it all works. Good luck.
Only thing I'm a bit nervous about now is the extra high rings... Anyone see me having problems?
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I have a Vortex PST 6-24x50 and I'm using the low Weaver Tactical rings. My objective bell sits about a quarter inch above the barrel. I have a 20 MOA EGW base. I did not have to bed my scope base, it fit flush with my receiver.
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I think most folks like the scope to be as close to the barrel as possible. It really comes down to your comfort. If you can get a comfortable cheek weld with your rings, you should be good. Even with the low rings on mine I have a Triad stock pack on mine when I shoot. It's not on it in the picture I sent earlier. My son had been shooting my rifle that day and he shoots left handed.
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Here's mine with the stock pack on it:
I don't use the pack to get that much elevation out of the comb, but I did raise it some to get a better cheek weld. All I can say is try them out with your ring bottoms attached to the rail and then attach the tops lightly so you can move the scope around some. Be careful not to scratch up your scope, but get down on the rifle and see where the scope needs to be for you to be comfortable. With the rings on loosely you can slide the scope around some to get your eye relief right. Pay attention to where your face is planted on the stock. There are some shooting tip videos on youtube where folks with some experience give advice on how your cheek should mate up to your stock. I'm sure if you search for cheek weld on here or google, you'll come up with some advice to consider, also.
I don't use the pack to get that much elevation out of the comb, but I did raise it some to get a better cheek weld. All I can say is try them out with your ring bottoms attached to the rail and then attach the tops lightly so you can move the scope around some. Be careful not to scratch up your scope, but get down on the rifle and see where the scope needs to be for you to be comfortable. With the rings on loosely you can slide the scope around some to get your eye relief right. Pay attention to where your face is planted on the stock. There are some shooting tip videos on youtube where folks with some experience give advice on how your cheek should mate up to your stock. I'm sure if you search for cheek weld on here or google, you'll come up with some advice to consider, also.
Im starting to think the extra highs might be too high. From my measurements though, which could be wrong, it seemed as if they were the only ones that would clear my bolt handle. I had no clearance problems with the objective and barrel, it was just a clearance problem with my bolt handle and eyepiece
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She's come together beautifully. All that worry for nothing! My first build and hopefully the rifle that's going to stick with me while I learn the basics of the sport! Saved all summer for this build so im pretty proud of it.
-Started with a dicks black Friday 700 adl varmint
-DIY bolt lift improvement off the forum (sanded the cam to polish)
-$5 bolt knob idea off the DIY section (jb weld putty and enamel black paint)
- Choate Tactical Stock inletted for badger DBM
-PTG stealth DBM
-EGE 20 MOA picitanny base
-Weaver Tactical 6 Hole rings
- Nikon monarch 3 4-16x42
-Blackhawk Bipod
She's not too fancy but im proud of her.
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-Started with a dicks black Friday 700 adl varmint
-DIY bolt lift improvement off the forum (sanded the cam to polish)
-$5 bolt knob idea off the DIY section (jb weld putty and enamel black paint)
- Choate Tactical Stock inletted for badger DBM
-PTG stealth DBM
-EGE 20 MOA picitanny base
-Weaver Tactical 6 Hole rings
- Nikon monarch 3 4-16x42
-Blackhawk Bipod
She's not too fancy but im proud of her.
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Attachments
Thanks. Maybe I'll post a report after I get to the range with it
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Mine really likes 168 gr FGMM. I've had a few sub-MOA groups shooting that. I'm still learning how to shoot more precise. I am coming from hunting, shooting clays and action shooting. A lot of folks can shoot sub-MOA with a good rifle but it takes skill to do it consistently.
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Yeah I've been shooting all my life but just getting into precision shooting. Best I've shot with the rifle before is a 3/4 moa 3 shot group and a little under 1 moa five shot group. That was with the cheap Remington stock and crappy rings and the two piece base that came with the rifle. Im probably going to get into some classes here pretty soon to get my fundamentals going in the right direction.
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