Gunsmithing  question about 1911 parts

AXEMAN

General Nuisance
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Sep 17, 2009
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kansas, topeka
ok so my first 1911 was an AMT Hardballer. i wanted to get a 1911 cheap but not trash and see if i even liked the way it felt, how the controls are and if i could operate them. i bought a kimber after that and now i have been buying stuff here and there. i bought the kuhnhausen? 1911 manual and while its very technical, i dont really get alot of it. im reading it over and over but with no one to ask certain things its still vague.


ive been buying parts here when i see them to replace the internals and upgrade it. i want to do it myself and thats why i bought the AMT as a learning tool. i had a slide lock with no detent and it kept creeping up while i shot it and locking the slide. dremel fixed that. new recoil spring. new mainspring. new spring for the firing pin. filed down the grip screws as they were protruding in the mag well and hanging up the mags. i need to open up the mag release as its still holding up mags. with each little tweak i get it smoothed out a little more.

i have these parts so far. a .250" radius jig and series 70 grip safety. nowlin trigger. 3 wolf hammer (main?) springs. Im ordering a wilson combat value line hammer and sear, ed brown disconnect and im thinking a new sear spring too. but is there anything im missing? anything else i should buy? pins?


im going to buy a bobtail jig too and do this pistol for practice. and i do have a question about the 1911 frame in general. are there different specs for the cut outs for the grip safeties? the indents or cut out dimensions on my kimber are different. maybe its series 70 v 80, im not an expert at all on the 1911. i see how the grip safety on my kimber is different than the AMT (left) but the frame cuts look different. i have read a few things and looked at a few vids and one thta brownells has mentions a different type or style or standard for the frame cuts. here is a picture of what i mean

6984082913_83d87224c9_b.jpg


any help on any of the parts choices or anything else would be appreciated.

 

DirtyRod

Sergeant
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Oct 4, 2009
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Re: question about 1911 parts

In addition to .250 there are also .220 radiused grip safeties. Not sure if there are other sizes. You don't have to understand everything in Ks book but you do need to understand engagement surfaces and the proper angles or you will end up with a weapon that is unsafe.

As to which parts you have lots of selections but if you are replacing parts you might as well go with Ed Brown HC, S&A, or Wilson BP and I'd advise a few spares for when the dremmel gets away from you.
 

AXEMAN

General Nuisance
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Sep 17, 2009
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Re: question about 1911 parts

im totally willing to take it to a smith for the parts install, thats not a problem. the parts all say drop in as well as have a smith install. i thought about getting a jig to do the sear angles. ill leave everything as "drop in" first and ill be safe. i would just like a better trigger and reliability.


do the tabs or whatever they are called, the notches in the rear where the safties fit look different to anyone else? is there a spec or standard?
 

deadly0311

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Mar 2, 2009
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Re: question about 1911 parts

The kimber I believe uses a .250 radius and has the tangs cut to give it the effect of the grip safety sliding into the frame. It just gives a higher hold on the grip. You can do that with most of the grip safeties once they are fitted. Provided you take your time and understand what angles you are cutting and why, you can make an excellent trigger pull. Drop in parts and the 1911 are rarely "drop in"
 

ShtrRdy

Gunny Sergeant
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Sep 17, 2011
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Re: question about 1911 parts

You're right about the AMT looking different than the Kimber. I think the Kimber is pretty close to a "normal" 1911A1 frame so the AMT might be a different creature.

The only other thing I might suggest you consider replacing is the Thumb Safety. You might need to do that after you replace all the fire control parts.

The website 1911forum.com has a lot of 1911 information.
 

pshell

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Aug 3, 2007
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Re: question about 1911 parts

It looks like your Kimber has it's own thing going on. The AMT looks like both of my 1911 frames.
That being said, your AMT looks like it already has a beavertail safety fitted. I'm not sure if there is enough meat to fit another. Maybe so. I just pulled up the pictures of a SA milspec that I put a .250 beavertail on and it may have more than enough.
Here are some pictures:
DSC04504.jpg

DSC04515.jpg

DSC04518.jpg


Some take aways that I'm thinking of after looking at these pictures:
- the grip safety holes were not in the same location. The books you bought will show you how to measure to see if yours are in the proper location. That's the reason I had to remove quite a bit from one side of the frame and not the other.

-I did a trigger job with the stock SA parts and they have lasted over 3000 rounds. I would buy a sear jig. I bought one, and it's worth it's cost. You can turn out repeatable trigger work with it. Safe trigger work that will last.

- Go slow! Can't stress that enough. You can put metal back, but it's probably cheaper to buy a new frame. Test fit always. You will be able to assemble your pistol in the dark when your done. I would leave the Dremel in the box for this one. Hand fit it with files.

What your trying to do is well within your reach. Don't get to wrapped around the axle. Take your time. Nothing is "drop-in" with these guns. If that happens you should be suspect.

Have a good one.
 

AXEMAN

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Sep 17, 2009
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Re: question about 1911 parts

notice in the AMT the hammer has a spur and the beavertail doesnt dovetail to the frame. im thinking its made to fit any frame since it has a channel under there and not the dovetails like the one on the kimber or the S&A .250" i have to install.

ive gone over the slide and frame and there were rough edges with what looked like burrs or flashing from the casting or milling process. i bought this one to learn how they work and to know how to maintain as well as diagnose my other 1911s. the dremel was only to make a detent i swear. ok and i did some radiusing on the egdes of the hammer since it was making contact with the rear of the slide and i didnt like that and the hammer spur was digging into the safety so i radiused the bottom of the spur.

ok off to shop for jigs. any preferences?
 

pshell

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Aug 3, 2007
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Re: question about 1911 parts

I used the brownells sear jig. It's not the most impressive machine, but it works.
 

Deej

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Oct 2, 2012
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Re: question about 1911 parts

i like the brownell's jig fine. Kimber has a nonstandard frame if i remember right and i know the amt does as there was a big stink about it years ago and fitting after market parts was sometimes a bear. if you do buy sear jig make sure it aligns with the gun you are working on as specs change. got caught on that one already. need to get some stones to work the sear trigger and slide.
 

AXEMAN

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Sep 17, 2009
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kansas, topeka
Re: question about 1911 parts

well i ordered the hammer, sear and spring and disconnector. i will look and see if the grip safety is worth the hassle to try and fit or replace. this should at least clean up the trigger pull.

ill see how it all drops in and then look at the jigs closer