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question about a 300 WM

KLambert05

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Minuteman
Apr 26, 2011
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I am pretty set on getting a new .308 rem 700 sps tactical very soon, but I had a thought about something else and was wanting an opinion because I honestly don't know what I want, I just know what I want to do with it.

I was wanting a shorter barrel to give me a little easier time toting in the field. I do a lot of walking around in fields shooting pigs and stuff like that, but I also want something that performs well at a range of 400+ yards. I already own a 300 WM bdl (from the 70's with a nice wood stock) the gun is in very good condition, but its kick is so much that I don't care to shoot it except when I have to, and it certainly is not a range gun. So after realizing that, I bought a savage btcss in 22-250 and I love that gun too, but its too long and is a pain to carry around walking in a field. So my thought was that instead of getting the .308, would my 300 WM work okay with a 20-22" heavy barrel, a new stock (was thinking AICS), and maybe throw a muzzle break on it. Ammo is not an issue, I use hand loads and have plenty of brass. I just don't know how accurate downrange a shorter barrel would be on that kind of setup. I shoot 150 gr nosler BT, can't remember my powder loads, I don't have my reload book with me.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

Tac Ops did a 300WM barrel analysis where they took a 26" barrel and hacked off an inch at a time until they got down to 20", running accuracy tests at each increment. Accuracy was what you'd expect from a custom rifle throughout the range of barrel lengths, but they argued that 22" was as short as you'd practically want to go (with lighter, 190gr bullets) because after that you started to lose MV, etc. For heavier bullets like many of us want to push (I like the 210-220gr loads personally), I think they suggested a min. of a 24" tube to get the most out of it.

Here is a link to the reprinted article:

http://www.tacticaloperations.com/SWATbarrel/

As for your situation...running REALLY lightweight bullets like the 150-155gr pills and if you run a fast-burning powder...you MIGHT be able to squeeze out good performance with only a 20" tube, but I wouldn't do it if it were my rifle (but then again, I don't really shoot anything less than 190gr pills in any of my 300WM rifles and I tend to stick to 208-210gr stuff...so take my recommendation with a grain of salt).
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Re: question about a 300 WM

i push those 150 gr out to 3100 fps (i think, I honestly can not remember my load data, its been 2 years since i loaded for that gun. I don't need the big heavy bullets (that im assuming you use for LR shooting because they are not affected as much be the environment?) because all I shoot are pigs, deer, coyotes, and i've been known to put down a squirrel or two with that gun (a bit over kill but when its the only rifle available, you use what you have), and other than that, my range that I have set up is out to just beyond 400 yards. I think I loaded with Hogdon H380 (or H450, whichever it is, they don't make it any more.) But thank you for your input
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

You said you were concerned about the accuracy of a short barrel?? If so then no worry. All things being equal a shorter barrel is normally more accurate than a longer barrel. Are you sure it is not velocity loss that you are concerned about?? Tom.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

yes, I am worried about velocity loss. that link that was posted earlier said that there was no velocity loss between a 24" barrel and a 22" barrel. But I still don't know. I'm not trying to make my 300 WM into a .308, I just was thinking maybe I could save the money that I would put toward the base .308 and go ahead and just start modifying the 300 WM to suite my purposes...if that can be done.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

"The .308 is a tool; the 300 Win Mag is a toy."
- Jacob Bynum.

Uncle Sam has them and knows how to use them. Uncle Freddy is another matter entirely...
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

If I had it to do over, I'd go 30-06, with a 24" tube. You can load it to 308 stuff easily, jack her up and just about keep up with a 300 for making 4 legged stuff leak, with your std hunting bullets.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

i was staying .308 or 300 WM because I have a ton of brass for them, so my cost of shooting is negligible. Bullets and powder, compared to starting fresh with 30-06. I also do not think i have dyes for 30-06, so thats even more money there.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"The .308 is a tool; the 300 Win Mag is a toy."
- Jacob Bynum. </div></div>

I understand :), I'm just trying to get the best bang for buck and looking into all of my options before I spend the money.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

Seriously, you would be better served with using a .308 to its maximum potential than trying to make the .300 do something that it was never designed to do and won't do well.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Seriously, you would be better served with using a .308 to its maximum potential than trying to make the .300 do something that it was never designed to do and won't do well. </div></div>

Thanks, I appreciate the advice.
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

Kevin,

I was thinking of building a short-barreled 300WM, just to see how it would work. Then I saw the Tac-ops article mentioned above and it gave me enough confidence to commit, despite the fact that *everyone* else said it was a huge mistake and their 24" and 26" and 30" 300WM's were just fine, yada yada...

So, how's that little experiment working out for me? 22" Tikka 300WM. 208 Amax @ 2870 fps. 7.0 mils to 1000 yds. 26 mils to 2000 yds. at my AO. Verified field data. 1500 yds on steel is a cake walk.

Probably won't kill a deer at 400 yds. though. I'd take the advice of the guys who *haven't* tried it and go another direction.
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Kevin, I'm the resident retard who doesn't know any better than to try unconventional things. You'll notice that I don't shoot the "blessed-from-heaven" Remington 700, also.

It's your rifle. Do what you want with it. How else will you learn. I've observed that most advice I get from others is either flat wrong or jaundiced by their ego or personal agenda. There are a very few guys on this forum whose advice I would take carte blanche. Normally Graham falls in that category. We see a little differently on this topic though.
wink.gif
(don't tell him... I'm sending him a hacksaw for Christmas this year.
grin.gif
)

John
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

if you are getting that kind of velocity out of a 208 gr bullet, then wouldnt I be seeing around 400 fps more with my 150 gr? I understand its speculation because every rifle, barrel, bullet, blah blah blah is different. Was just curious. and I don't shoot out passed 400 yards. I'm not practiced at it, so I'm not going to take a shot on an animal, wound it, then not find it, and I dont have a place around me to really shoot much farther, so that does not bother me. I am actually considering this idea. Thanks for your input
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

In general, lighter bullets can take advantage of faster powders, so yes your 150 gr. projectiles should be scooting right along. I get about 3000 fps from factory 180 Federal Fusion. I would imagine that 150's should be running in the 3150-3200 fps range.

John
 
Re: question about a 300 WM

Check into the muzzle break from VAIS. I mounted one of the larger brakes to my .300WM

Recoil is now on par with a .243 when firing 190gr 2950fps loads, however, it is a radial brake and generates one hell of a down-blast.

The Badger FTE is another great brake for cartidges generated plenty of gas but it does require more barrel work to mount.