Gunsmithing Question for gunsmiths...

[pmclaine]

My Winchester Model 70 has a Lyman receiver sight installed.

I wanted to remove the Lyman sight and found the mount screws to be locked solid.

Possibly loc-tite by the builder but Im guessing maybe fresh bluing salts locked them up.

Any suggestions.

Thinking heat would be the way to go, little leery of using flame, will a soldering iron on the screw head apply enough heat to work?

 

[larryh128]

My Winchester Model 70 has a Lyman receiver sight installed.

I wanted to remove the Lyman sight and found the mount screws to be locked solid.

Possibly loc-tite by the builder but Im guessing maybe fresh bluing salts locked them up.

Any suggestions.

Thinking heat would be the way to go, little leery of using flame, will a soldering iron on the screw head apply enough heat to work?

It will but it will need to be on there quite a while. A pencil torch works the best. Could absolutely be rust also.

 

[pmclaine]

It will but it will need to be on there quite a while. A pencil torch works the best. Could absolutely be rust also.

Rifle was rebuilt/blued within last year and half or so.

Surprised they are so locked on.

Snapped a Borka bit trying to remove.

Impressed the Lyman screws didnt deform at all, hard stuff.

 

[buffalowinter]

Heat is always the best. An impact driver works well too...I've had that work when heat failed.

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[VSP968]

PMC, this stuff might work for you with the correctly sized driver bit:

Freeze Off CRC

 

[pmclaine]

Builder says no thread treatment used.

Going to let some Kroil work its magic for a week or so.

Wonder if an upside down spray of canned air would "loosen" things from the freeze/thaw expansion/contraction........

 

[VSP968]

I have used the tip of an 800 watt soldering iron to directly heat very small studs or screws in automotive/motorcycle applications....

 

[buffalowinter]

Thermal techniques, heat or cold, generally only work on dis-similar materials. If the materials are the same, they tend to expand or contract at the same rate. The impact wrench is amazing...it only moves about a 1/16" of an inch when you wack it, but the combination of "shock" and high torque really works. I've been amazed when I've tried everything and one wack with the impact wrench and frozen screws come right out. I'm always reluctant to "whack" my guns with a hammer, but this should probably be the first thing you try on a stuck screw. Works just like an impact wrench for lug nuts on a car. I've used 6 foot breaker bars on lug nuts with no luck, grabbed an impact wrench and the thing comes right off. I keep an impact wrench in my truck at all times.

 

[LRI]

How I do it:

Find the correct hex screw driver insert that fits. Smack it into the screw's socket with a few taps of a ball peen so that it seats and bites the very bottom of the screw socket. Remember, these are swaged/formed so the bottom often has a little taper. You want to squeeze into that to get maximum purchase on the insert.

Now, get out your crack torch. Begin heating the hex insert. It'll start to glow a dull orange. Keep at it. Lay the hate. When you smell the sweet stink of loctite being cooked or the "nail salon" odor of epoxy giving up the goods, your probably ready to try and remove it.

In most instances, this is about a 90% success rate. If the screw still won't budge. Pull the hex tool out and find a torx that is close. Drive that biche in with a ball peen so that it actually cold forges the screw into the shape. Heat again, and give it another go.

This has never failed me in 20+ years.

Good luck. Hope it helps.

 

[pmclaine]

Thank you Chad.

Ive got slotted screws though.

Guessing similar would work if I get the blade to stay in the screw head.

 

[LRI]

Thank you Chad.

Ive got slotted screws though.

Guessing similar would work if I get the blade to stay in the screw head.

It might. The problem there is your trying to transmit a great deal of heat through a very narrow area. My guess is if you do that, it'll likely weaken the screw driver tip to the point it either deforms or breaks all together.

I realize that its expensive, but Brownells sells a set of screw driver inserts that are purposely built for this trade. They don't give em away by anymeans, but they are about the nicest out that that I've ever seen. When I get a flat blade screw that's a bitch, I still tap it in. When attempting to remove it I put a great deal of downward pressure on the screw tip as I attempt to bust it loose. I put as much weight on it as I can and chickenwing the handle close to my arm pit. What I'm after is NOT rocking the tool causing an edge to slip out of the slot and destroy the screw. Working for Dakota Arms taught me a great deal about tearing guns down and assembling them. These are tricks the old guard there passed onto me.

Good luck.

 

[VSP968]

PMC- PM me .

 

[J-Ham]

I've done exactly what Chad is talking about above, but while the whole operation is chucked up in a lathe or a drill press. Take the drill press for instance: With the machine turned OFF, use the Chuck to apply the down pressure that he's talking about, then use a wrench to turn whatever bit you're using (slotted, Allen, whatever). I've had good luck with this & it stays more controlled... Less chance of a slip & your entire workshop imploding on you.

 

[pmclaine]

Good stuff guys.

@VSP968 I have that same kit, mine is a bit (no pun intended) barren compared to yours I will be seeking supply at Brownells.

Love the chuck/drill press idea, you guys with skills and tools amaze me.

Im in no hurry, time to do it slow and safely.

 

[J-Ham]

You think we invented this stuff? Nah man, just learned it along the way from another guy... Same as you, haha!