Questions about Barrel Length and Muzzle Brakes

[CNJarvis]

I’m trying to decide what length to make the barrel on my 300 Win Mag and what brake to use.
The rifle will likely be equal parts hunting and target shooting and I’m installing a Krieger #5 “Bull Sporter” profile.

Barrel Length – The OEM barrel is approximately 25.75” from the breech face to the muzzle and I have zero issues with this. The question is whether or not to crop it to 24” to keep the OAL shorter with muzzle brake or to leave it at 26” and install the brake anyway. At any rate, I do not want the barrel shorter than 24”. If for some reason I want/need it shorter than that, I can cut it down later.

Muzzle Brake – I had originally thought I’d install a 3-port brake from Ross Schuler however the smith I’m likely to use (Parry Custom Guns) recommended the clamp-on Blast Tamer by Center Shot Rifles. I have no idea which is better. The Blast Tamer would eliminate the need to time the threads at the muzzle and claims that the ports are perpendicular to the bore axis to keep muzzle blast from being directed back at the shooter. The Schuler brake has ports angled backward to help reduce recoil and also has 3 ports at the top to combat muzzle rise. The Blast Tamer has no top ports. In addition, the Blast Tamer is $90 more than the Schuler brake. Even with the additional cost of timing the brake, the Shuler is $50 less. FWIW, I am considering whether or not to remove the brake for hunting and reinstalling for target work. I’m also considering using a suppressor at a later date.
Thoughts?

 

[Hawk45]

I run a 24" sporter barrel for hunting and a 26" varmint barrel for target. I run timed brakes on both. That being said, a threaded clamp on brake is nice if you decide you don't or can't run one for any particular reason. I have a few Schuler style brakes and they are nice. Never heard of the other one. If it were me, I'd keep the length and choose the brake based on if I would ever foresee a needing to shoot without it, and if it's an effective brake.

 

[HOGWILD]

Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels - Articles: The Ideal Barrel For A .308 Caliber Tactical Rifle

You can always take off but never add to ? I have read where some shooters recrown after 500 rounds?

 

[hollowoutadime]

Look at American Precision Arms Fat Bastard and Little Bastard. I had a my Short Action Customs thread my barrel and install a Little Bastard and it was absolutely worth $$$ to do. Shooting behind a braked rifle isn't bad (it's bad if you are on an adjoining bench). I bought mine to tame the felt recoil for shooting prairie dogs, where I can now see the bullet impact where without the brake I lose sight because of recoil.

 

[GhengisAhn175]

Questions about Barrel Length and Muzzle Brakes

Jarvis,

General rule of thumb for a 300wm is to keep it no less than 26 inches for efficiency. (Actual barrel length will vary depending in length of accessory you have on front).

Reason being is that you're shooting 300wm... No "efficient" point in shooting the magnum cartridge if you're not going to utilize it for it's intended purpose. If weight/length is an issue you can look at different rounds.

You mentioned it's for hunting and target. For hunting 26 is ideal; 30 is ideal for pure target.
Anywhere in between is personal preference. Either way in suggesting nothing less than 26". The extra 4 inches is for people who want to squeeze and utilize the 300wm to its fullest potential and again not required.

I personally plan on a folding stock 30" barrel which I also will take on hunts. I don't mind humping it around. If I ever decide to cut it I can like it was suggested from another post.

Since you already have it at 25.75" I'd keep that and just add to.

Lastly on muzzle brake even these have slightly different purposes. Work with/without can, fully dedicated to brake with no regards to anything else (ie rolling thunder) vs surefires.

You can find reviews but to give you the short answer hybrid brakes that work with suppressors are slightly less effective than pure dedicated brakes. Either way, a brake is a brake is a brake; you will feel mitigation. Maybe you can handle recoil better than others and don't need the best there is to offer based on your needs.

I hope this helps


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[CNJarvis]

Ok, so I have the barrel installed at 26". No problem with that. The only reason I second guessed myself was that Parry asked me "that long?" As though he thought I was nuts.

As far as the brake goes, the "blast tamer" is apparently the same or similar to the "muscle brake" and of course the Schuler is similar to the Holland brake. Are the ports in the top necessary to prevent muzzle rise or are the side ports enough to mitigate that?

Thanks for the replies.

 

[GhengisAhn175]

I'm not familiar with those brakes do others may chime in.

My only suggestion would be to install per manufacturers specifications so that it's "timed" . Timing is the threads matching so that when screwed in place the muzzle brake is facing the blast in the right direction (if that means ports at the 12, 3, 9 o'clock then so be it).

You can achieve this from having the manufacturer or gunsmith math your threads or by using crush washers yourself.

Again in my particular case, I sent Idaho ctd, a fellow hide member, my thread protector with the 12 o'clock marked when screwed in fully. He Made my brake for me and timed it to my barrel threads using my thread protector.


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[CNJarvis]

Anyone else have any sage advice?

 

[MarinePMI]

I was always under the impression that timed brakes had ports slightly offset from TDC, to mitigate the torque from the right hand rifling. This (as I've read somewhere) is intended to allow the rifle to recoil straight back.

I always remember the brakes on the military rifles being TDC, so am not sure if this is gospel or not. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable about brakes than I can speak to this?

 

[xringaccuracy]

Keep it long to squeeze out the potential. Put a thread protector on when hunting so you wont blow out your buddies ears.

 

[CNJarvis]

Ok, 26" it is and I'll use the Schuler brake:


Given that the barrel will be approximately .700" at the muzzle and is 308 cal., what size threads should be used on the muzzle? My thought is that 5/8"-24 is appropriate. That leaves plenty of metal around the bore and a 0.037" shoulder to tighten the brake to. Sound right? And while I'm at it, would the .875" or 1" dia. Brake be better?

 

[morganlamprecht]

i have 2 ross brakes, both std 5/8-24, one is larger than the barrel like in your pic, the other matches the barrel contour...recoil is non existent for the most part on both...rifles stay right on target...ross is good to go...after seeing/shooting mine, 2 other shooting buddies also went with ross