questions on ai ae mk3 purchase

[6brshooter]

Decided to buy a new mk3 and take advantage of the price drops. i am a 243 junky, i have 4 plus a 243ackley. One of the 243 will be sold to help fund this purchase. I am looking at a 26" 243 folder or fixed or a 24" braked 6.5 cm folder. Both have bartliens, probably get 1000 more rds out of the creed version. Also have a 6.5 cm brux barreled target action in a 2.0 chassis. Prices are 3400,4000,&4200. I have never saw a 243 on the hide, would i be the first.lol. What do replacement ai barrels run? I guess alot, that might be more the deciding factor? What are the triggers like? Close to giesselle? I.like the feel of all 3 aics i have, just want a full ai rifle. Thanks for any help.

 

[Backspace]

Checked with AI the other day and new unthreaded non 308 barrel was 660 plus shipping.

The 2 stage trigger on mine is really nice. Just don't try to turn it into a single stage trigger. You will not be disappointed. Either route you go, you will have an AI. That means it will be rock solid, reliable, and accurate. My 260 didn't have a bad load during development. It just had some that were outstanding for me.

 

[ChemE1975]

You can get AINA barrels (bartlien barrel chambered by Dave Tooley) directly from AINA or from Mile High. Cost is 660 unthreaded. I think it is about 80 more for the threaded.

 

[Prebanpaul]

Can someone get me some information. Bartlien wants 715 for the barrel threaded but no finish. Another person I contacted wanted 915 for it installed threaded and cerekoted. I called tooley and there was not answer. Called Mile High today and the lady stated that they did not sell barrels for AI

I keep seeing people post this stuff. Where did you find AINA number I can not find it anywhere. Any one have a contact at mile high.

 

[6brshooter]

Thanks guys, i assume when they list 3.5-4.5 lb trigger that they are talking about combined weight of both stages? Also are the bartliens coated stainless or chrome moly? Thanks again.

 

[Backspace]

I believe itis and yes, stainless. The trigger is adjustable, but I didnt touch mine. Was just about right straight out of the box.

 

[6brshooter]

Ordered the 6.5 cm 24" with brake and folder. Sold two custom savages, but they will cover the cost of the AI . Don't laugh but i hope the ai will shoot as good as the 6 br savage does. Either way I and my buddy will be tickled, he's lusted after that little br for a year or so.

 

[Jrb572]

One bit of advise. Leave the trigger alone. Leave it set as it comes from the factory. It is not meant to be made into a single stage trigger. The adjustment is made to adjust the trigger as it wears.

 

[Graham]

There's no reason not to adjust your AE trigger if you want to.

 

[6brshooter]

I don't plan on adjusting the trigger if it doesn't need it, and i like a two stage. Not a big fan of 4 lb triggers but if it's like my gieselle triggers then i love it. They're about 1.5-2 lb first stage and about 1-1.5 second stage. Are the ai similar feel or are they more like a glock with take up then 3-4 second stage. The reason i ask is because i have been around some "2 stage" triggers that felt more like slack take up then the actual trigger pull and break. The way people rave about them they must be excellent. Any favorite loads for an ai 6.5 cm, usually use 42-43 gr h4350 and 140 amax but i do have quite a few 142 smk to try.

 

[Backspace]

I just got a SSA-E and installed it in a lower. Only tested it a couple of times. I was actually a little disappointed with it compared to my AI trigger. Those are the only 2 2 stage triggers I own. I think the SSA-E will get better with some use, but the AI was just right straight out of the box. Good call on the folder and 6.5 cm. You are on the right track with the H4350 and amaxs. Just like everyone says, start low and work your way up. Talked to some people and they are having a lot of luck with the 140 hybrids too. I an about to start testing those soon hopefully.

 

[rchman]

The AI trigger is better than the SSA-E but I like that my second stage on my Geisselle NM is lighter. So it's between the SSA-E and the NM. I haven't fiddled with the AE trigger, but I believe it goes a lot lower.

 

[Temp9]

I might be the only person that's not a huge fan of the AE trigger....

Don't get me wrong, it works fine. I have no problems shooting it accurately. It's nothing like my Geissele Hi-Speed, though. It's light enough at 3.5 lbs total (actually about perfect there), but the final stage (the "break") is not crisp. Not mushy, either, but rather a significant but smooth travel in the second stage. Combine that with the quarter inch of overtravel, and I'm just not a fan. My Geissele has a perfectly crisp second stage break with no noticeable travel before the trigger breaks, and essentially no overtravel. That's how a 2-stage should be. Don't want to worry you, maybe it's just my trigger that isn't great.


Edit: Spoke too soon. I had some time to play with the trigger a little bit more. I now have a very nice two stage trigger with a smooth first stage and a clean second stage break, almost as nice as my Geissele. I also understand how the trigger works a little bit better now. The angled screw is, of course, the sear engagement screw. What this screw really does is adjust the ratio of first stage to second stage.

Going clockwise, you will have a shorter first stage travel, but you'll most likely end up with a little bit of creep on the second stage. This is how my rifle was set from the factory. If you go clockwise far enough, you will have a single stage trigger like some people have referenced to. Be very careful setting the trigger to a single stage. This will reduce the initial sear engagement (engagement under zero load) and can make the rifle more likely to fire when closing the bolt handle or dropping the rifle.

If you adjust counter-clockwise, you will increase the first stage travel, but decrease the creep on the second stage. This can give a very nice, clean break on the second stage. If you adjust this far enough, you will lose the second stage and end up with a surprise break right off the first stage. To adjust my trigger, I set the adjustment until I lost the second stage, then came back clockwise until I barely had my second stage. I then came clockwise another 1/8 of a turn. This gave me a very clean break with enough second stage sear engagement for a consistent break. This adjustment does not affect the initial sear engagement and maintains the safety of a two-stage trigger. Of course, I still drop tested and rapidly cycled the trigger for a safety check, but there should be no issues since the full initial sear engagement is retained.

 

[Backspace]

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...on-rifles/174650-aiae-trigger-adjustment.html

Here is the thread with a very good explanation. Do yourself a favor and read lowlight's comments about firing issues and poorly adjusted triggers before going to town on it. I think my trigger really breaks nice and clean as is.

 

[Nuttshooter]

I might be the only person that's not a huge fan of the AE trigger.....

While not a AE I am still not really a huge fan of my AW trigger. I have a Xmark that was tuned by George at GAP about six years ago that is still my favorite trigger to this day. I don't know if that trigger will ever go anywhere!

The AI trigger is nice and I am use to shooting it now. Just still not my favorite.

Nutt

 

[6brshooter]

Thanks guys. The giessele i have is a hi speed match or dmr. Thanks temp9 for the simple breakdown of trigger directions, and thanks for the link backspace. My wife should have our first born this week and maybe have my first AI next week, stoked for sure