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Questions with 30.06 - M1 Garand Reloading

Samuel Whittemore

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  • Apr 8, 2018
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    So got my hot little hands on some IMR 4895 and some 150 gr bullets. I wanted to try reloading for the Garand. Can I use this die? And can I use Federal 215 instead of CCI 200 primers? I heard the Winchester brass sucks... what about SPRG?

    Any other suggestions?

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    You can use those dies. There should be instructions about how to set them up so the x-die mandrel won't crush cases that are too long. Fed 215 should be fine, but be sure to start low and work your load up. I'm not sure about which commercial brass is best.
     
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    You can use those dies. There should be instructions about how to set them up so the x-die mandrel won't crush cases that are too long. Fed 215 should be fine, but be sure to start low and work your load up. I'm not sure about which commercial brass is best.


    Cool .. thank you Sir. Been watching this guy. He's loading 50 gr. IMR4895 --but I'll look around a LOT first cause I hear it's kind of touchy with slam fires and whatnot.

     
    These are the bullets I got 150 gr Hornady

    But I just read the Berger 168-grain VLDs were more consistently accurate than 150-grain loads.

    If anyone is looking for IMR 4895 I actually managed to find some here:

    Maybe start with 45 gr. and work up to 49?


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    But I just read the Berger 168-grain VLDs were more consistently accurate than 150-grain loads.
    The Hornady 150 FMJ's are pretty much the most accurate when compared to other FMJ's, but nowhere near as accurate as a "match" projectile. I don't think you need to go all out with VLD's or other high-dollar projectiles, a decent HP match projectile from HDY, Nosler, or Sierra will serve you well.
     
    With the 215 primer, your load will probably be a little hotter than those you listed. The 150 FMJ Hornady are fine but 168 gr HPBT generally work better.
     
    Like the others have said, your dies, bullets, powder and primers are fine. Winchester brass can be good or bad, give it a try. I think but can not prove that they use better brass in their loaded ammo than they sell as unfired. I've shot a lot of it. Start low and work up to 49 grains.

    The Garand is a fun rifle to shoot. Watch your thumb!
     
    Brought my Garand to work today and will be taking two hours time at the end of shift to fire up some reloads I made the other day.

    My load is 48 grains 4064 with a 168 SMK, WLRP, HXP 1X brass.

    I did some workup some years ago and found that worked really well at the 200 yards I was testing it.

    I think for 4895 with a 168 I use 46.5 or so grains of powder in mil brass.

    There is tons of info out there for loading up 150s to make a sort of M2 clone round.

    Note M2 is kind of a hot round. The mil had parts on hand to replace/repair rifles. You may be more comfortable, find it easier on the rifle, even more accurate with mid range loads.

    Ill try to remember to come back here with pictures of my shooting results today.

    I intended to post in the "Is 30-06 still relevant" thread.
     
    PS - You should have no issue with slam fires or any such issue as long as the parts of your rifle are in spec.

    Its actually amazing the amount of thought Garand put in to creating a safe rifle.

    Lets see pictures of what you got.
     
    This is really valuable stuff! Can't thank you enough.

    Arrrgh too many choices... Anyone? What bullet?


    I'm thinking this one? But it has no cannelure...


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    PS - You should have no issue with slam fires or any such issue as long as the parts of your rifle are in spec.

    Its actually amazing the amount of thought Garand put in to creating a safe rifle.

    Lets see pictures of what you got.


    Pics of my rifle?
    Or pics of the loads when I get some worked up?
     
    Arrrgh too many choices... Anyone? What bullet?
    HDY HPBT, nothing fancy, costs 28¢ each. You don't need ELD/AMAX/VLD/etc.

    I use Nosler Custom Competition blems:

    A recent practice at 300yds with the reduced 600yd target:
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    HDY HPBT, nothing fancy, costs 28¢ each. You don't need ELD/AMAX/VLD/etc.

    Excellent... TY for that.
     
    Ditch the scope and replace the wood where that abomination of a mount is. Irons and 150gr Hornady FMJ work pretty good at two to three hundred. 168 BTHP past that.

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    Aw crap! See that? I bought the scope mount rail and cheek pad years ago... thinking it would be an asset.

    Brand New only shot it with that stuff on it once... and the bummer is I probably can't even sell those parts now... bc nobody is dumb enough to buy theml I guess that's a hard earned $250. lesson down the drain.

    That's what happens when I didn't have this forum to bounce my decisions off of... Thank you for the constructive feedback gents.
     
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    I recently gave away one of the cheek pads to a guy I shoot with that recently assembled a Garand with an offset mount. Thing had been in a box in my garage for the last 25+ years.
     
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    Aw crap! See that? I bought the scope mount rail and cheek pad years ago... thinking it would be an asset.

    Brand New only shot it with that stuff on it once... and the bummer is I probably can't even sell those parts now... bc nobody is dumb enough to buy theml I guess that's a hard earned $250. lesson down the drain.

    That's what happens when I didn't have this forum to bounce my decisions off of... Thank you for the constructive feedback gents.

    Post them at CMP someone will buy them.
     
    Shows promise. Shooter is the weak link. When I had the front sight buried in the black it was an X. If I felt I had a line of white or had fell left or right it wasnt.

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    As the others said, follow the direction on your X die set up. Winchester brass tends to get loose primer pockets quicker than others. once you’re through your 150’s, check out the Speer 125gr TNT bullets. Just put them behind your 150gr-168gr load and they do well through 200. Wind starts to push them around at 300.