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Rail for Tikka T3xTac A1

Paul1262

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 13, 2019
460
94
I spoke to someone at the range today that said he was selling his Tikka T3xTacA1 because he couldn't use a 20 MOA rail on the existing rail. Have others experienced the same problem when adding a 20 MOA rail ?
 
Lol. There are easy solutions to that problem. 20/30/40 MOA mount.
The problem as posted w/ pictures on the bolt action section is that when Tikka put the "O" mount on the lock tight they used was more like JB Weld they normal lock tight and that resulted in at least one striped thread. Plus other Major problems in removing the OME mount/base.
Didn't know that anyone made 20 MOA rings. If they did that would solve the problem , IF in fact 20 MOA was needed ??
 
The problem as posted w/ pictures on the bolt action section is that when Tikka put the "O" mount on the lock tight they used was more like JB Weld they normal lock tight and that resulted in at least one striped thread. Plus other Major problems in removing the OME mount/base.
Didn't know that anyone made 20 MOA rings. If they did that would solve the problem , IF in fact 20 MOA was needed ??
I meant to specify 20/30/40 rings or one piece mount. Spuhr is an example, yeah.
I called Mountain Tactical about their scope bases, and their MOA rails are not designed for the Tac A1, unfortunately. They suggested MOA mounts, as others have said.

After hearing how much of a pain removing the factory rail has been for some others, I’m reluctant to. For the paint job, I decided it’s gotta come off, so hopefully using penetrating oil does the trick.
 
I went with the 20 MOA Spuhr mount.

I also just went with a Bravo stock and removing the OEM tall rail was easy peasy. They had "thread lok" or similar but broke free fairly easy.

Chassis is in the PX if anyone is interested. 🤠
 
I meant to specify 20/30/40 rings or one piece mount. Spuhr is an example, yeah.
I called Mountain Tactical about their scope bases, and their MOA rails are not designed for the Tac A1, unfortunately. They suggested MOA mounts, as others have said.

After hearing how much of a pain removing the factory rail has been for some others, I’m reluctant to. For the paint job, I decided it’s gotta come off, so hopefully using penetrating oil does the trick.
Lock tight melts with heat
 
Copy. I’ll bust out the heat gun first, then. If that fails, accelerant and a torch!
I would suggest a torch of Some sort as the heat is more localised. If you don't have experience with heating screws to melt loctite I would suggest seeking instruction from someone who does.