Re-anodizing?

[CoriolisEffect]

Has anyone attempted to strip the factory anodizing from an AR style rifle and then have it re-anodized? (change color, fix imperfections, etc.) If so, how did it go?

In particular with regards to the lower receiver, were there any issues with the dimensions of any holes changing?

I’m primarily interested on feedback for Type III anodizing. Thanks.

 

[jstone]

Never seen it done with type 3, but I played competitive paintball for years and have had many markers redone. The dimensions and tolerances for the markers being used were probably tighter than for a lower, and I never had any problems.

There is not a lot of color options for type 3. If its just to fix imperfections I wouldn't even waste your time. It's a simple process but not a lot of people doing type 3 anodizing. It took me forever to find someone that would anodize some parts for my AKA Excalibur.

 

[Near miss]

I am quite sure that the standard is to cerakote rather than anodize when it comes to aftermarket (and even commercial) custom coloring.

It probably costs around 300-450 to get a 3 color camo cerakoted. My local price is 350ish.

 

[Bantam1]

http://www.usanodizing.com/pricing.htm

 

[CoriolisEffect]

http://www.usanodizing.com/pricing.htm

I heard back from Victor this morning, he is recommending to not re-anodize in my scenario. I've also been encouraged by several other parties to not attempt re-anodization of a lower due to the potential for pin holes to lose tolerance.

 

[Bantam1]

Makes sense. I just provided the link showing there are places that offer the service and the cost of the service.

On a side note JP makes different pins with larger and smaller dimensions to adjust for tolerance now. You can also use some 400 grit sandpaper to clean up the holes a little even after they have been anodized. It pretty much polishes the surface. I cut a q-tip and taped some of the sandpaper to it and used a cordless drill. I had to do that for a friends brand new DD upper than pins were very tight in, almost wouldn't pass through. DD customer service suggested it. Worked well and did not remove any of the surface coat. Is it ideal? No idea. It hasn't caused any problems to date. I did that about 5 years ago and it has thousands of rounds through it.

 

[BurtG]

what companies could Anodize a rifle green. Like NF new rings ?

 

[BurtG]

 

[Charmingmander]

what companies could Anodize a rifle green. Like NF new rings ?

I may be in the minority here but I think anodized colors look like total hot fucking garbage. Especially green.

 

[BurtG]

I may be in the minority here but I think anodized colors look like total hot fucking garbage. Especially green.

You are entitled to your own wrong opinion

 

[Charmingmander]

You are entitled to your own wrong opinion

They don't color match and they have a shine to them. It's ass.

I had a charging handle that FCD anodized green and it was fucking terrible. It didn't match any green and was shiny as hell. Distracting.

 

[BurtG]

They don't color match and they have a shine to them

 

[Charmingmander]

View attachment 8366028

Shiny bad. Krylon matte camo good.

 

[longshot2000]

I've also been encouraged by several other parties to not attempt re-anodization of a lower due to the potential for pin holes to lose tolerance.

I would not say that is an obstacle, but the real question is what you want to do and why. We send out uppers and lowers for anodizing, and sometimes have to strip the existing anodizing. It is as simple as applying gentle media hits and keeping the grit to a very fine level. If you are going to strip with heavy grit, yes, you are going to loose some outer dimentions, but the fit of an upper and lower are purposely a bit lose.

Once the anodizing outfit gets our aluminum products, they tend to give it a steel bead blast to add surface area and encourage take-up of the dye.

So, I would not avoid anodizing a surface that has been anodozed on the premise that you are going to alter the dimensions, but I would look to see what you are doing and why, and what the cost is. We pay our anodizers by the batch, and each batch has a minimum cost, to the point where it would not be economical to do one upper or one matched set in anything but black.

You also need to understand that anodizing dyes, other than black are going to be extremely variable in color. There is no such thing as color matching greens and tans.