Rifle Scopes Re-torque?

[Quarter Horse]

A couple of guys I varmint hunt with have recently had problems with scope ring screws loosening up. These are small bore rifles using regular one screw per side rings. One of the guys said that he had been told, years ago, to tighten the screws three or four times before the final tightening.

The reasoning is that the multiple tightenings give the threads the opportunity to compress gainst each other resulting in more complete engagement of the threads. In addition any loosening of the screws as the threads compress is avoided. This sounds absolutely reasonable to me.

Do any of you use a similiar procedure? If you do, has it made your set-up more reliable?

 

[VKC]

Re: Re-torque?

Blue Loctite

 

[red6actual]

Re: Re-torque?

I do find that when I put a new setup together that after torque setting when necessary it comes to a point when nothing moves at all, so yes this does track.

The barreling procedure for the M16 advises to torque the barrel nut 3 separate times during instalation, so there is a precedent for it there as well.

That being said I always use a torque wrench and try not to over use it.

 

[BillyGoatMachine]

Re: Re-torque?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vkc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blue Loctite </div></div>

I do this as well. I put a tiny drop on the threads of one screw and then roll the other screws through the threads so there is only a tiny bit on each one. Then I tighten with my Wheeler.

 

[winxp_man]

Re: Re-torque?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: skkeeter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vkc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blue Loctite </div></div>

I do this as well. I put a tiny drop on the threads of one screw and then roll the other screws through the threads so there is only a tiny bit on each one. Then I tighten with my Wheeler. </div></div>

This is the only loctite you will ever have to use! I used the red like a dumb ass and lets just say it didn't end to well but managed to take the screws apart with heat.



Aron-

 

[El Cid 92]

Re: Re-torque?

I apply blue locktite to all critical screws...action bolts/screws, base screws, ring screws and ring to base bolts.

It has been recommended by mechanical engineer types to "work-up" to the final torque value. IE if 65in/lbs is the goal... start at 20...30...40...45...50...ect.

Also be aware that locktite acts as a lubricant at first so you can over torque.

I mount the scope/base/rings...shoot it...re-torque the screws...shoot it...retorque the screws and then mark them with witness marks.

Just some random ramblings from a TN flatlander...

ATW

 

[eracer]

Re: Re-torque?

You can't re-torque loctite. At least not the blue 242. Once it dries, re-torquing it will break the bond with the metal, and you defeat the purpose of using it.

Clean/degrease.

Apply loctite.

Torque to recommended value. You can torque in 'steps' while the loctite is still a liquid. Torquing in steps (torque to 1/2 the final value, loosen, then torque to final) stretches the bolt and preloads the threads more evenly.

No need to re-torque after use.

Incremental tightening to spec (20, 30, 40, 60, 90) is useful when you have a series of bolts holding flat plates together (such as an intake manifold.) You tighten incrementally in a pattern that helps prevent warping.

 

[El Cid 92]

Re: Re-torque?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eracer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can't re-torque loctite. At least not the blue 242. Once it dries, re-torquing it will break the bond with the metal, and you defeat the purpose of using it. </div></div>

I'm sorry to have mis-led...I'm usually accomplishing the torque/shoot/torque/shoot in the same time period. Hopefully, the blue locktite is not dry by the conclusion.

Thanks for claifying that point.

Andrew