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Ready to order AI AE MKIII 308

D

Dacam

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 16, 2012
212
0
57
Las Vegas
Hey guys,
I would like a bit of input on options on the AI AE MKIII 308.
I can get one with the factory barrel in 1/12 twist which is probably a Lothar Walther I believe
or I can get one with an upgraded 1/10 Bartlein. I will be shooting mostly 175g SMK, 168g SMK and
possibly 155 Scenars. Will the 1/12 be a better fit or should I get the 1/10 Bartlein?
Also, 20" or 24", with or without brake? I value all of your opinions and input in helping me make
my decisions.
Thanks,
Dacam
 
Mine has the Bartlein upgrade 1:10. I like it, but I don't think it is necessary.
Honestly, either will shoot most bullets well. Someone might chime in about the 155 Scenar. That's a pretty long bullet from my understanding and it may benefit from the tighter twist....maybe.
 
Get the Lothar Walther. They are the fastest barrels I have ever shot. My AE with the 24" LW was getting 2990FPS with just 46gr of Varget behind a 155 scenar. It was stupid fast and shot as good as any custom rifle I've ever had. The LW I had on the R700 was the same story. I've had Bartleins on other rifles and they are great barrels and shoot just as good but they are nowhere near as fast as the LW will be.

The 1:12 is also perfect for what you are looking to shoot, you could shoot up to a 190gr SMK if you wanted. My experience with a 1:10 and 155's hasn't been good. 175's have been great in all the 1:10's I've had though.

If you are going to be regularly shooting long distances (800+) then I would opt for the 24" especially if you aren't going to be running a can. 308 is capable but every little bit helps. As for the brake I personally wouldn't get it. The first reason being the weight of an AE absorbs the recoil quite nice and spotting hits and staying on target isn't a problem. The next is the metric threads, if you get a can down the road it's best to go with a 5/8-24 for versatility which means you would have to have it rethreaded. I'd save the money and if you want one later then get one installed 5/8-24. If you REALLY want one then you could also have mile high thread it 5/8-24 and index a SAS TOMB brake and then all you would need is the can later.

One place I would suggest spending the extra money though is on the folding stock. My AE didn't have it but my AWSM, and all the AICS's did and man did I hate that fixed stock when it came to cleaning. I only cleaned every 400-500 rounds (which SUCKED because of all the passes) but after every shooting session I would push a clean patch through the barrel to get the loose stuff out. Every time it was take the cheek piece off (could never get the damn thumb screws to stay tight so had to use the standards) and then bust my knuckles passing the rod by the inlet for the cheek piece. I can't tell you how many times I drew blood on that damn gun. Cleaning was even worse because of the amount of passes. With the folder you swing it to the side and nothing is there. It's also nice to be able to stick it in a smaller case to put it in the trunk of a car or to be able to fit the rifle with a can in a standard length case. Bottom line is I believe the folder is worth the $400 upgrade and more.
 
I just bought a AI AE MK3 .308 24" no-brake 1-12 folder. I shoot Sierra 175s (44.3 Varget, 2670 fps) and it works like a champ. Sub-MOA groups at 300 no problem. Shot a 1000 yard F-T/R match last weekend and even got a few past the 9-ring! This rifle far exceeds my expectations, which is unusual for anything. I couldn't be happier with it!
 
For your purposes there is no disadvantage in going with the 1:12, only advantages. I wouldn't go with the 1:10 unless you plan on shooting subsonics and even then I'd still order it with the 1:12 for the speed and get a second barrel for subs (prefferably 1:8-9).
 
Yeah, your right. I was really thinking the 1/12 is the way to go since it shoots the 175g well. I was kinda worried about how it shoots 175's but doing more research is showing me that
the 175 are no problem with the LW. I can even go lighter with 168's and 155's.
 
1:12 is perfect for 175's and will typically work with everything up to 190gr. Some guys are even running 208 Amax's in them with no problems.
 
I'm pretty sure both of them will work just fine. If you ever wanted to experiment with heavier bullets in your 308 (like 208 AMAXs), you would want the 1/10. If you're confident that you're sticking with 168s and 155s then the 1/12 is probably a better choice because you'll want the extra velocity to help buck the wind.
 
I just received my AE MKIII from Mile High about two months ago and can't say enough good things about them or the rifle. I'm probably the odd man out here because I went with the 1/12, 20", braked barrel. I have a Thunderbeast 30BA suppressor on the way and my plan is to replace the AI brake with a TB brake. You can order the TB brake to match the existing threads of the AI barrel, so I don't have to mess around with modifying the existing barrel. Just ANOTHER option to think about.

So far I've shot nothing but 175gr smk's through the rifle and have been averaging between 3/8" & 1/2" moa groups. Love this rifle!
 

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What I did:
- Folder (can't make it a folder later on if you change your mind)
- No muzzle brake (I thought it was overpriced, and don't see the need. Also, you can get it added later on)
- 20" 1:12 barrel. Most shooting will be from 100-300m. Maybe 600-1000y (in the UK) 2-3 times a year. Will need to experiment with 185gr lapua's and/or bergers and see how they do.
- FDE. Can't argue with taste. Certainly don't live anywhere near a desert...
 
Thanks everyone for the insight and opinions.
One last thing is how does the 2 stage trigger feel.
I have a Geissele ssa-e on my LMT 308, does it feel the same?
 
The trigger took some getting used to for me. I like it, but it was a bit too heavy for my taste. I love 2-stage trigger too. The trigger on my AE has a 2nd stage that is just a tad too heavy. I originally wanted to make the 2nd stage about 1/2 lb lighter, but decided to shoot it a little longer to see if I got used to it. The jury is still out for me.

I had a Geissele national match in my SASS. Still the nicest trigger I have ever shot in my opinion. I have never been more impressed with a trigger than I was with a Geissele.
If Geissele made triggers for Remintgon 700s, I'd buy 5.....and I don't even have 5 700s.
 
I have an AI AE MK II with the LW 20" barrel. Being from Canada we don't have the luxury of the choice of Bartlien barrels like AINA offers, everything comes from the UK so that option is out the window. Saying that I am very pleased with the LW barrel with the 1 in 12 twist. I have close to 3000 rds through the barrel and it shoots as good as it did when I first got it. It really likes 175 SMK's/178 AMAX but have shot 155 Scenars out to 600 metres with good success. The majority of ammo shot out of it was factory. Federal Gold Medal and RUAG and it liked both. It is not particular with the type of ammo it likes thats for sure. As far as a folding chassis, I don't think it's necessary for just cleaning, I have the thumbscrews on the cheekpiece and it takes less time to remove the cheekpiece with the thumbscrews than it does to fold it. If it was my work gun, absolutely but not just for cleaning but everyone has their opinion.
 
Dacam said:
Thanks everyone for the insight and opinions.
One last thing is how does the 2 stage trigger feel.
I have a Geissele ssa-e on my LMT 308, does it feel the same?
Click to expand...

I have used 2-stage triggers for a long time, so am used to them. The trigger on my AI-AE is excellent, very crisp break, no creep. It arrived set to 3-1/2# and I adjusted it down to 2-1/2#. No complaints!
 
Ok guys, thanks again for all the help. I will be giving Mile High Shooting a call first thing Monday to place my order.
AE MKIII
20" 1/12" twist, Brake
Folder, FDE

I have another question, I have a scope that I want to use but I dont think it has enough elevation to get me out to 1000yds.
Its a Bushnell Elite Tac 3.5-21 HDMR. I will need a 34mm canted 20deg mount. Any suggestions on what you are using, how is the
Accuracy International picatinny mount?
Thanks
 
If I didn't already have Badger 34mm rings (4-screws on the front, 6-screws on the rear), I would have gone with the AI mount. You can get the AI mount with built-in elevation in a couple different angles, 18MOA and others, IIRC. The Bushnell Elite Tac 3.5-21 HDMR offers over 25 mils of elevation, I think, which is way more than enough to get you to 1000 without an angled mount.
 
Dacam said:
That's awesome, I could just buy a 20moa rail bolt it on and still
use my current Badger 34mm rings. I some how thought the AI rail
was not removable, wrong!
Do you feel that I must bed the rail to the action?
Click to expand...
I didn't have to bed my rail. Usually you don't have to on the AEs because the tolerances are excellent. Here's how to find out, and how to bed it if you must:

8541 Tactical - Picatinny Scope Base Install
 
Dacam said:
That's awesome, I could just buy a 20moa rail bolt it on and still
use my current Badger 34mm rings. I some how thought the AI rail
was not removable, wrong!
Do you feel that I must bed the rail to the action?
Click to expand...

Don't mess with it.

Use the AI base that comes on the rifle. Bolt on your HDMR and shoot. The HDMR should have enough elevation to get you to 1K on a flat base. If for some reason you find it doesn't then you can go looking for a solution. My AE MkII still has the flat base it shipped with.
 
I got the 1-12" 24" factory tube on my rifle which I ordered from mhs. I like the 24" because its my only LR rifle and i want all the velo i can get. Don't piss around with the 10 twist, it's unnecessary. As already stated, the 12 twist will handle all practical .308 pills. Like the guys above mentioned, use the factory AI mount on the AI rail. You should have the option of ordering a 18moa AI mount if you're worried about elevation. Also, be sure to get the folder. It'll make your life easier.

Other than that, sounds like you're squared away. Buy with confidence from mhs, they're good people. With that being said, here's how my mkiii shot yesterday. Should help confirm your decision ;)

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...u-thinking-about-ordering-ai.html#post2554792
 
Unless you have the high badger 34mm rings then you're going to have problems with the factory rail. It's very low on the receiver, much lower than a typical rail. This is why most AI's you will see need 1.1"+ height mounts.

I would buy their 34mm mount. Either the 18moa or the 28moa. You could use a set of rings on the flat base but for what it's going to cost you for another set of badgers you can get the AI mount which IMO is a better mount.
 
I agree with the 1.1" and above mounts for an AI, I bought a set of 1" rings for my ATACR and they are almost too low. I have to bear down on the comb in order to get a good sight picture. THe 1.125" rings would have allowed me to adjust my comb up just a hair and been perfect.
 
I believe I have Badger 1.125" rings. I guess I'll try them out first and see what and where my cheek weld sits. If its too low I was looking at the AI scope mount.
Thanks for the heads up guys.
Another issue I have is I have an Atlas V8 bipod with QD lever mount. What other parts do I need besides the spigot mount to get this attached?
 
Dacam said:
I believe I have Badger 1.125" rings. I guess I'll try them out first and see what and where my cheek weld sits. If its too low I was looking at the AI scope mount.
Thanks for the heads up guys.
Another issue I have is I have an Atlas V8 bipod with QD lever mount. What other parts do I need besides the spigot mount to get this attached?
Click to expand...


Use the Accu-shot bottom rail piece (BT20B) that goes on the spigot. I used it on my new lefty AIAW rifle and it worked great. It gives you just what you need to attach the Atlas with QD to the spigot (and nothing more).
 
Well guys, my AI AE MKIII 308 is finally here and she is a fricken sexy thing. Its a 24" Lothar Walther 1/12 twist, folder, FDE.

I have to give props to Pam at Mile High Shooting, she made everything so pleasant and got my rifle to me within the week.
Im still trying to decide what optics run and what scope mount. Thinking of a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22, or reinstall my Bushy HDMR.
Thanks to everyone that helped me along the way, Im really happy with my purchase of the AI AE MKIII.
LOL, thats my little Shi Tzu in the background.


 
Last edited:
Great choice. Looking forward to some groups. Cant go wrong with the NF either!
 
I just noticed the 24" barrel and no brake. Thought you wanted the 20" with brake.
Did you change your mind, or was this one in stock?
 
I would run the AI mount. Nice rifle that is just like mine. I run a USO 3.2-17 and I am very pleased with it.
 
Defusion said:
I just noticed the 24" barrel and no brake. Thought you wanted the 20" with brake.
Did you change your mind, or was this one in stock?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I change my mind. I talk to Mile High and they recommended me going with the 24" barrel, the folding option will negate the length and if I really didn't want to shoot
the longer barrel, they could cut and crown it to what ever length I wanted. Plus the added muzzle velocity minimal it may be will be an added benefit shooting at longer distances.
 
My only gripe with the AE MKIII is the picatinny rail. First off its a 0 moa rail. Mostly everyone would rather run a 20moa or 40moa. In addition, the rail is quite low compared to
most other actions and it really isn't a "spec" picatinny rail due to the slot spacings. It really makes finding 1 piece mounts with canted base difficult. I just went ahead and ordered
the AI scope mount and will run that until I find something better or change out the rail to a Ken Farrell, Murphy ect.
 
Ah yes, I'm very curious about the height of the rail/scope setup.
As I've mentioned before, I also went with the AI AE, but I'm still waiting on it.
You Americans have it good. About 10 days wait on your order? I'm at 10 months (of which 7 waiting for the rifle, another 3 for paperwork) ;)
It's finally being shipped though, went with the shipping company this Monday from the UK, so maybe this week, but pretty soon either way.

I've got some regular rings, so not too worried about the different slots. The height though, that will remain to be seen. I've got some low and medium rings I can try, so hopefully one of those works with my cheek weld.
 
Dacam said:
My only gripe with the AE MKIII is the picatinny rail. First off its a 0 moa rail. Mostly everyone would rather run a 20moa or 40moa. In addition, the rail is quite low compared to
most other actions and it really isn't a "spec" picatinny rail due to the slot spacings. It really makes finding 1 piece mounts with canted base difficult. I just went ahead and ordered
the AI scope mount and will run that until I find something better or change out the rail to a Ken Farrell, Murphy ect.
Click to expand...

I have run a 0 MOA on my AIs for years and never needed the elevation with any modern scope (NightForce F1s, Steiner, etc.). There is enough elevation for .308 to take it well over 1400 yards which is basically a crapshoot for the .308 to hit anything with any meaningful impact. Out to 1100 or less there is no problem with the 0 MOA rail.

I run NF rings and AI rings and they both work fine on the picatinny rail. They are simple and reliable and never come loose even after unfriendly handing of the rifle.

The low rail gives the rifle a good center of gravity and puts your cheek more inline with the bore of the weapon. The recoil tends to travel straight back into you and makes it easy to shoot and follow-up. The higher the scope is mounted, the less balanced I think a rifle becomes and worse handling it will have. It also forces the operator to use a high cheek rest which causes other problems. So the low mounting of the AI is a benefit.

You were smart to get the 24" barrel. I have a 20 and 26" barrel for the AW and the 20" barrel is actually heavier than the 26" version. It has a much thicker profile and the velocity is much lower. The 20" loses enough velocity to make using it to 1000 yards sketchy. It can do it, but the lower velocity causes a big bullet drop and wind error compared to the higher velocity longer barrels. And really, carrying an extra 4" of barrel is not that big of a burden nor is it one in handling vs. the improved velocity.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I really don't need any cant on my rail as both my scopes (Bushnell HDMR, Nightforce NXS) have plenty of elevation to get out to 1000yds.
Its just nice to have and I figure it would put less stress on the erector if it is zeroed somewhere in the center of total adjustment instead of in the
upper end. Im probably way wrong on this issue but its just my "ocd" kicking in....lol
 
Just set up the Nightforce on the AI 18moa mount. Its ok, I guess. Kinda high IMO. I'll run some medium Badger rings later and see how it feels but so far
the AI mount is ok.



 
You can still adjust the cheek piece a bit.
I finally received my AE as well, and have noticed the (seekins) mediums with my vortex viper pst are just a bit too low. Not much, but if I move my head up a fraction, i get scope shadow.
The AI mount does seem even higher than "high" rings though.
 
Dacam - nice rifle. Congrats!

redneckbmxer24 said:
Every time it was take the cheek piece off (could never get the damn thumb screws to stay tight so had to use the standards) and then bust my knuckles passing the rod by the inlet for the cheek piece. I can't tell you how many times I drew blood on that damn gun. Cleaning was even worse because of the amount of passes. With the folder you swing it to the side and nothing is there. It's also nice to be able to stick it in a smaller case to put it in the trunk of a car or to be able to fit the rifle with a can in a standard length case. Bottom line is I believe the folder is worth the $400 upgrade and more.
Click to expand...

Maybe a little late to this party...

I hear what you are saying... but $400 is pretty big money just to cover cleaning if you don't need the other benefits of a folder.

A cheaper fix is to buy a longer cleaning rod with a slimmer handle......



This is a ProShot 42" rod

In this pic the tip (without brush or jag) is around 1" clear of the muzzle on a 26" barrel with AI brake with a Mike Lucas boreguide in the receiver. A 48" rod would get you clear without the need to run over the butt pad (you can always remove it ;) ) and drawing blood!!
 
Last edited:
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