Gunsmithing Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

[cuutter]

Hello everyone, I have a situation with a reamer I can't figure out. The reamer is a 308 win. match reamer with a .3425" NK, .089" FB 1deg.-30. I specd out that I only use Lapua Brass that I FL size every time I reload. Well I have done 3 barrels with the reamer, set it up where there is just a touch of resistance when closing the bolt on the GO gauge. Well none of the chambers will not chamber a Lapua FL sized Brass or a Lapua Loaded round. For kicks I hand reamed one of the barrels in till I could just close the bolt with a Lapua Round and found that I could with a little pressure close the bolt on the NO-GO gauge. Know I have contacted the reamer maker today and waiting a response. I have bought many reamers from him and never had a problem. He makes A1 reamers and I have a feeling I may have missed something while using this reamer. Any ideas on what may be happening? Just looking for opinions in till the reamer maker gets back to me.

Thanks in advanced for you thoughts.

Wayne

Well heres the latest. I had 1 barrel left that I had not hand reamed. Chambered it to the GO gauge like normal. The rifle will chamber everything I throw at it EXCEPT Lapua that has been FL sized shot out of my Steyr. The rifle will (upon checking)
will chamber Lapua Brass right out of the box. So it looks like you will have to start out with new Lapua brass. I did tell the reamer maker that all of my buddy's and myself use Lapua Brass out of our Tactical Rifles.
I guess I will go back to the lathe with the other 2 barrels and set them back.
Thanks for all of your input on this. That's why I love this site.
Thanks again
Wayne

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Re: Reamer Question

Was the FL sized brass originally fired in a chamber using the same reamer?

Is the headspace guage from same manufacturer as reamer? Was curious is perhaps headspace guage/s are correct for your setup?

Just thinking out loud without seeing it hands on!

 

[300sniper]

Re: Reamer Question

by chance, are you setting your headspace so the bolt just closes on the go gauge while the barrel is only hand tight?

have you used a "bump" gauge to measure the distance to the shoulder on both the headspace gauge and brass?

 

[cuutter]

Re: Reamer Question

SD, No on the fired brass. This is the first time using this reamer. The headspace gauge was done when I ordered the reamer.

300sniper, yes I tighten by hand. Thats pretty much how I have always done it. As far as the bump gauge, the loaded Lapua round measures 1.6220" and the GO gauge is 1.6265".
What do you think? Is 0.0045" enough clearance?

Thanks you guys for your thoughts

Wayne

 

[bignada]

Re: Reamer Question

What you are saying is:
1) chambers you've reamed in lathe to close just barely on Go Gauge dimension are fine.
2) chamber you hand-reamed (barrel in vise, use a hand stock to hold reamer?) will close on NO-GO Gauge?

Sounds like you reamed to far.
Lapua brass isn't "the holy grail" either.

Were you using a RCBS Precision Mic or a Wilson Case Gauge?
Might've gotten a bad batch of brass, maybe a different lot or just barely within their tolerances??

Reaming by hand ought to be Most Precise, even if all you're doing is finishing the last .25".

Your chamber is way long, dude. Not supposed to be able to close on a No-Go. Easiest solution is to set the barrel forward another twist which should be about .006"; but you might need to go 2 turns and be sure your boltnose isn't hitting. If this is a Rem 700, part off what's needed and deepen the boltnose recess.

Confirm your brass dimension before going to all this work, maybe you just have an over-spec piece?

Hope that is all it turns out to be...

 

[9H_Cracka]

Re: Reamer Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bignada</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Reaming by hand ought to be Most Precise, even if all you're doing is finishing the last .25".

</div></div>

That's signature material right there.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Reamer Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cuutter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Hello everyone, I have a situation with a reamer I can't figure out. The reamer is a 308 win. match reamer with a .3425" NK, .089" FB 1deg.-30. I specd out that I only use Lapua Brass that I FL size every time I reload. Well I have done 3 barrels with the reamer, set it up where there is just a touch of resistance when closing the bolt on the GO gauge. Well none of the chambers will not chamber a Lapua FL sized Brass or a Lapua Loaded round. </div></div>

If the chambers were headspaced with a steel go gauge purchased from the same reamer manufacturer then your chamber should be OK. The brass and or ammo would be suspect in my mind. I have heard of two instances where the steel go gauge was too long.



<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cuutter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> For kicks I hand reamed one of the barrels until I could just close the bolt with a Lapua Round and found that I could with a little pressure close the bolt on the NO-GO gauge. </div></div>

I would never hand ream or use brass a the go gauge. You have very little control of the reamer by doing this and it can lead to over sized chambers. Now, your chamber is too long and it's back to the lathe. Dont feel too bad, we've all done simular things in the past.

As I said, I'm suspect of the brass and ammo. The headspace sounded a little too long with each, now the chamber is too long if the bolt closes on a no go. You nailed the chamber the first time when the bolt handle closed on go with very slight resistance.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Reamer Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bignada</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Reaming by hand ought to be Most Precise, even if all you're doing is finishing the last .25". Easiest solution is to set the barrel forward another twist which should be about .006"; but you might need to go 2 turns and be sure your boltnose isn't hitting. If this is a Rem 700, part off what's needed and deepen the boltnose recess. </div></div>

Actually, it's not the most precise way to ream chambers. Also, for 16 TPI Tenons, one turn would be .0625", not .006"

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Re: Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cuutter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Well heres the latest. I had 1 barrel left that I had not hand reamed. Chambered it to the GO gauge like normal. The rifle will chamber everything I throw at it EXCEPT Lapua that has been FL sized shot out of my Steyr. The rifle will (upon checking)
will chamber Lapua Brass right out of the box. So it looks like you will have to start out with new Lapua brass. I did tell the reamer maker that all of my buddy's and myself use Lapua Brass out of our Tactical Rifles.
I guess I will go back to the lathe with the other 2 barrels and set them back.
Thanks for all of your input on this. That's why I love this site.
Thanks again
Wayne
</div></div>

The very reason I asked if brass had been fired from a previous rifle chambered with that reamer. The first rifle I ever chambered was a 6mm. Chambered it within .001 of a go guage. Was being a cheap bastard and had some 1-2 fired brass from an old 244 in a Model 722. Thought it would be 'cheap' way to work up a load. Well even FL sized in 2 different RCBS FL sizer dies that brass was too long for my chamber. Even ground down a shell holder a bit for giggles. Went to new brass and had ZERO issues. Seems the other was springing back enough from that factory chamber that it wouldn't fit my new chamber.

Sometimes the little shit really gives you head scratching issues!!!! Glad you got it figured out.

Respectfully,
Dennis

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

Newly chambered rifles deserve new unfired brass. Sloppy seconds or thirds just wont cut it

 

[cuutter]

Re: Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

Thanks guys.
Wayne

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Re: Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Newly chambered rifles deserve new unfired brass. Sloppy seconds or thirds just wont cut it

</div></div>

Yea William, guy buys a new $300 blank, spends $150+ for reamer and guages and then cheaps out on some horseshit brass from another rifle or a gunshow or such.

I did it once and learned a valuable lesson, it really just cost me some time and burned up some brain cells to gain knowledge for the future.lol You can skimp on beer, cigs and condoms, but damn, always buy NEW brass for the NEW toy.

 

[bignada]

Re: Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

Thanks for correcting my failure for noting thousandths instead of hundredths on the threading issue. Even had I posted "about .06" the extra .0025 is noteworthy.

I have reamed/improved about 10 or 12 chambers on my personal firearms. All using reamer in handstock. On none of these did I ever exceed a minimum chamber spec or have to have barrel set forward. Maybe I was just lucky?

Have never heard the term "sloppy seconds" applied to fired brass. Actually, I have no experience in any way or fashion with the term, which is something I attribute to "right living". You gunsmith/custom builders must really run with a fast crowd...

Seems to me, that if anything, unfired brass is what fits sloppily in a chamber whether that chamber is new or "experienced". Unless we are talking super-magnum pressures, I prefer to treat my new rifles to once-fired, quality brass that is setup with a Redding FL type S die to be "right there".

Nice to have a chamber without any slop whatsoever to it and to know that your brass had to flow a very minimum of material to seal and hold pressure. Nothing more crucial to accuracy and precision than a minimum oal chamber.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Reamer Question(Figured it out, I think)

You said .006" not .060"....big difference.

Not running with anyone now but, in my younger days.........

..........the stories I could tell.