Redding bushing selection - brass brand specific?

[Jp2]

First post, quick bio - not new to guns, some experience reloading, now getting more technical about it.

My question is in regards to what bushing to select for my 6.5 creed (Redding tyle S die). From what I am learning, take a loaded round, factory, measure the case neck and subtract .001 - .003. Got it, however, here is where my question is coming from: Hornady factory loads are reading 0.289 and the Nosler factory loads are 0.292. The once fired Hornady neck side wall is 0.013 while the Nosler is 0.015 which leads me to what bushing I should select and is this selection dependent on the brass I choose?

In addition to these factory loads I bought 150 empty Nosler pieces as this is what brass I am planning to load. For the Nosler brass do I need a 0.290 or 0.0291 bushing because of the case thickness? If I want to reload the Hornady would I use a 0.288 or 0.287 bushing assuming I am going to use the -0.001 - 0.002 to start?

 

[spife7980]

If you are going to skip an expansion step then yes, choose a bushing .001-.003 smaller, how much depends on what level of tension you want. What level of tension is best can only definitively be answered by testing the results yourself.
If you want to expand a bit then you need a bushing that isn’t .003-.004 smaller so that the brass will be small enough to get expanded.

 

[One1Bravo]

First post, quick bio - not new to guns, some experience reloading, now getting more technical about it.

My question is in regards to what bushing to select for my 6.5 creed (Redding tyle S die). From what I am learning, take a loaded round, factory, measure the case neck and subtract .001 - .003. Got it, however, here is where my question is coming from: Hornady factory loads are reading 0.289 and the Nosler factory loads are 0.292. The once fired Hornady neck side wall is 0.013 while the Nosler is 0.015 which leads me to what bushing I should select and is this selection dependent on the brass I choose?

In addition to these factory loads I bought 150 empty Nosler pieces as this is what brass I am planning to load. For the Nosler brass do I need a 0.290 or 0.0291 bushing because of the case thickness? If I want to reload the Hornady would I use a 0.288 or 0.287 bushing assuming I am going to use the -0.001 - 0.002 to start?

Bushing size will vary by brass as neck wall thickness will vary as you have found. Measure your neck wall thickness in the brass you plan to load, multiply by two, then add your bullet diameter. Subtract .001-.003 (whichever neck tension you choose to go with) from that number and that's your bushing size. As spife said, if you plan to use an expander of any type you'll need to size smaller.

 

[Supersubes]

You’ve got it handled more or less. I prefer wilson bushings to the Redding bushings. If you’re doing redding, save your money and do standard steel bushings. Those bushings are hand honed to proper size, and frequently have a bit of taper to them. If you run them upside down, you’ll get a lilttle more sizing. Just something to note during usage.

 

[Jp2]

If you are going to skip an expansion step then yes, choose a bushing .001-.003 smaller, how much depends on what level of tension you want. What level of tension is best can only definitively be answered by testing the results yourself.
If you want to expand a bit then you need a bushing that isn’t .003-.004 smaller so that the brass will be small enough to get expanded.

In a pistol 3 die set, an expander die is part of that set, correct? With rifle applications, does the decapping pin bell the neck?

 

[Supersubes]

No, the third die will be a body die. No neck belling for rifle cartridges with copper bullets in any case.

 

[Jp2]

No, the third die will be a body die. No neck belling for rifle cartridges with copper bullets in any case.

Out of curiosity is this because of the way rifle bullets taper at the heel?

 

[Supersubes]

Out of curiosity is this because of the way rifle bullets taper at the heel?

No, it’s because a properly inside chamfered neck won’t shave copper off the bullet, like a pistol case will from a lead bullet.

 

[spife7980]

In a pistol 3 die set, an expander die is part of that set, correct? With rifle applications, does the decapping pin bell the neck?

No idea, pistols are dumb.

Just get a 2 die set (full length sizer and seater). Getting a 3 die set (neck, body, seater) just means you have to pull the handle twice as many times to size the brass for the same end result.

The decapping pin only bells something if you dont have the die fully inserted into the shell holder and it jams on the case mouth, ala user error.


Going back and reading the others responses I see what youre asking now: No, dont flare your cases and dont crimp them unless you find you have to. Thats just more work that will lead to inconsistency in your reloads. A chamfer on the inside to cut the 90° edge is all thats required to not shave a bullet.

 

[Rocketvapor]

Belling pistol cases is for lead bullets. Most jacketed pistol bullets will have enough bevel to seat.
If you shave with a pistol, bell;
if you shave with a rifle chamfer more.

 

[Lynn Jr]

Stick with 0.003 under your loaded rounds dimension and get a separate bushing for each size of brass.
Factory chambers have taper in the neck while most custom chambers have parallel necks.
Factory brass is inconsistent enough that I wouldn't use 0.001 on anything that isn't neckturned.