Second this. You’ll soon forget about the price you paid for the type S dies. I stockpiled factory hornady brass from shooting the 140 ELDM factory match ammo and although Hornady brass isn’t considered great by any means I’ve been able to easily keep my SDs under 10 without much load development or anything too fancy with my reloading.
Maybe I got lucky but I think the type S dies with the right neck bushing will go a long way.
The “competition“ dies are not made any better they just have the micrometer adjustment, which is highly recommended for a seater but really not necessary for a sizer. The type S bushing (either FL or neck) die is really all you need in that department, I recommend the FL Type S bushing seater but if you go with the neck only die you really should get a body die also and use it to set the shoulder back and reduce the body diameter occasionally based on caliber and load. Sounds like you may be new to this style of reloading, get a comparator to measure the amount you are setting the shoulders back so you can keep it to a very minimum.
The Redding competition dies have a sleeve that captures the brass and holds it in perfect alignment as it is raised into the bushing or seating the bullet. It may not be necessary but I use them and love them. Why not eliminate any run out issues whenever possible. To each their own.
The Redding competition dies have a sleeve that captures the brass and holds it in perfect alignment as it is raised into the bushing or seating the bullet. It may not be necessary but I use them and love them. Why not eliminate any run out issues whenever possible. To each their own.
Agreed, in addition to that how you install the dies in the press, and quality of your press plays a big role in reducing runout. I even remove the clip that retains the shell holder so it can float more free and self center more easily to help with alignment.