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Redding S Type ?

bosulli

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 30, 2009
100
0
58
Austin, TX
I am about to pull the trigger on upgrading to a Redding bushing resizing die for my 300wm. My question is that it seems that the expander button coming back thru the neck would negate the precision neck sizing that the bushing does. Also, I have to bump back the shoulder, so it seems I need the S Type FL Sizing die. Or I could get the body die to FL size and then use the Neck Sizing die to get the neck tension where I want it.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

You can remove the expander ball and just do the neck routine.

It's nice to have when you get a bag of brass with dents in the necks. Run the expander through them then remove it and neck size with your bushing as normal.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

I have an "S" die for my 300 WM. I prefer to get full length sizing dies. You can neck only size with a full length die. But you CAN'T full length size with a neck only die. Just back it off 1/4 turn and you're neck sizing. I have ground all my expander balls to roughly the next size smaller.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bosulli</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks. The FL was the way I wanted to go. Plan B was to go body die and neck sizer. </div></div>

There's a time when FL sizing is quicker and easier, but there's also a time where you might not need to FL size a case and using the 'body die with a bushing neck sizer' setup is the way to go...preferring to just size the neck, but having the body die for shoulder bumps.

This being said, I try and find a cheap, used FL bushing die to run with my typical set up of running a body die with bushing neck dies, for the times when I want to do everyting in one step.

It's all personal preference, if you ask me.

Chris
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

I decided to go with the neck and body die. I have trouble getting my Hornady FL die set to do resize and bump the correct amt, so I want to bump shoulder and neck size in two steps. Hope this combo will get me there. Also, got the Wilson seater die.

Thanks for the help.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

When you fire a round and can't get the bolt open, you fired it one time too many without bumping the shoulder back. That's why I full length size everything.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

Not being able to open the bolt happens too often. After firing I measure the shoulder at 2.30. I bump the shoulder back to 2.95, and they still get stuck. I hope this body dies puts that aggravation to an end.

I annealed all my 300wm in hopes that will help with my shoulder bump back issue.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

I have never neck only sized 300 WM brass. I've stuck cases in chambers before. With SMALLER cartridges. I set my WM F/L sizer die just like I do all the rest.
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

bosulli, Not sure if you have checked out these die's and sleeve inserts before. Scroll down to the second item and read the description. While I don't load for a belted magnum, I do understand the problems that can arise. I have a couple of friends that use the shoulders to set thier headspace instead of using the belt. I have also wittnessed casehead seperation from completing this step improperly.

Hope this helps : http://www.larrywillis.com/
 
Re: Redding S Type ?

I read it. Sounds like what my problem is. I have concluded its not the shoulder making the cases stick. I went to the range yesterday. I chambered every round before I left with out any sticking, and I had two stick (before firing) at the range. I figured it was the heat that expanded the case, and not a shoulder/headspace problem. The other cartridges I reload never have this problem, but they are not magnums. After reading that explanation from that link, it all makes sense. I have already ordered the body die, so I will see if improves the problem.

Thanks LR-WSM