If I prep my stock really well, will regular off the shelf rustolem rattle can paint hold up on a stock?
-Matt
-Matt
Gunsmithing Regular rattle can for stock?
- Thread starter 105amatt
- Start date
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
Yeah for a little while, it just depends on how hard you use the rifle and how often. More use = more wear.
Yeah for a little while, it just depends on how hard you use the rifle and how often. More use = more wear.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
It all depends on what you are doing with the rifle.
If you are running and gunning with it, or dragging it through the woods hunting...then it probably won't hold up for too long no matter how much prep, primer, how good a job coating the stock, and how much flat clear you cover it with.
If it is going to be a bench/range gun only...it'll do fine.
It all depends on what you are doing with the rifle.
If you are running and gunning with it, or dragging it through the woods hunting...then it probably won't hold up for too long no matter how much prep, primer, how good a job coating the stock, and how much flat clear you cover it with.
If it is going to be a bench/range gun only...it'll do fine.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
One of my hard use rifles has a Krylon finish. I use an adhesion promoter (PPG), automotive primer (PPG), then three coats of Krylon. It lasts a year before it needs a respray. That particular rifle goes everywhere with me, it is my bear protection.
One of my hard use rifles has a Krylon finish. I use an adhesion promoter (PPG), automotive primer (PPG), then three coats of Krylon. It lasts a year before it needs a respray. That particular rifle goes everywhere with me, it is my bear protection.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
Well, I am going to give a try. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
-Matt
Well, I am going to give a try. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
-Matt
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
Krylon works really well. Mine has held up in everything including rain.
Krylon works really well. Mine has held up in everything including rain.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
How long should I wait for the paint to dry before I reassemble my gun? Bore solvent will probably eat this paint huh? Didn't think about that.....
-Matt
How long should I wait for the paint to dry before I reassemble my gun? Bore solvent will probably eat this paint huh? Didn't think about that.....
-Matt
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
My personal experience has shown me that for an all krylon job, if I finish with a satin clear, it seems tougher/more resistant....
I have a dark car, I usually lay it on the hood for the day, flipping it now and then....... (after it's already dry of course)
My personal experience has shown me that for an all krylon job, if I finish with a satin clear, it seems tougher/more resistant....
I have a dark car, I usually lay it on the hood for the day, flipping it now and then....... (after it's already dry of course)
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How long should I wait for the paint to dry before I reassemble my gun? Bore solvent will probably eat this paint huh? Didn't think about that.....
-Matt </div></div>
It dries to the touch pretty quickly, 24 hours or more for it to cure. Solvents will damage the finish so keep clear of the stock with your gun cleaner.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How long should I wait for the paint to dry before I reassemble my gun? Bore solvent will probably eat this paint huh? Didn't think about that.....
-Matt </div></div>
It dries to the touch pretty quickly, 24 hours or more for it to cure. Solvents will damage the finish so keep clear of the stock with your gun cleaner.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How long should I wait for the paint to dry before I reassemble my gun? Bore solvent will probably eat this paint huh? Didn't think about that.....
-Matt </div></div>
Fully cured after 7 days. If you have paint on the exterior there is no need to use solvent or oil on the surface.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How long should I wait for the paint to dry before I reassemble my gun? Bore solvent will probably eat this paint huh? Didn't think about that.....
-Matt </div></div>
Fully cured after 7 days. If you have paint on the exterior there is no need to use solvent or oil on the surface.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
I Kryloned one of mine. Sponge painted it GAP camo. Then shot it with four coats of clear satin. Let it dry for two days then reassembled and put it in the safe for two weeks controlled temperature and humidity before using it. So far so good. If you do a camo finish touch up is easy.
I Kryloned one of mine. Sponge painted it GAP camo. Then shot it with four coats of clear satin. Let it dry for two days then reassembled and put it in the safe for two weeks controlled temperature and humidity before using it. So far so good. If you do a camo finish touch up is easy.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
I seriousy doubt that anything, including pigmented gel coat is going to permanently resist signs of wear.
So for me the question isn't what's impervious, but what's easier to renew. I think that Krylon Camo provides good color selections and reasonable wear resistance.
It can easily be removed by soaking the stripped stock in Super Clean (purple gallon jug in Wallyworld automotive) degreaser overnight. Start fresh from there. Strain the Super Clean through some cloth, and it's reuseable.
Greg
I seriousy doubt that anything, including pigmented gel coat is going to permanently resist signs of wear.
So for me the question isn't what's impervious, but what's easier to renew. I think that Krylon Camo provides good color selections and reasonable wear resistance.
It can easily be removed by soaking the stripped stock in Super Clean (purple gallon jug in Wallyworld automotive) degreaser overnight. Start fresh from there. Strain the Super Clean through some cloth, and it's reuseable.
Greg
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
When you guys say "flat clear", do you mean polyurethane? Thanks for the advice.
-Matt
When you guys say "flat clear", do you mean polyurethane? Thanks for the advice.
-Matt
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you guys say "flat clear", do you mean polyurethane? Thanks for the advice.
-Matt </div></div>
There are many different "flavors" of flat/matte clear coat, but like this for one example:
http://www.krylon.com/products/matte_finish/
or
http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant_clear/ (on this one...be sure to get the MATTE, not the Gloss)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you guys say "flat clear", do you mean polyurethane? Thanks for the advice.
-Matt </div></div>
There are many different "flavors" of flat/matte clear coat, but like this for one example:
http://www.krylon.com/products/matte_finish/
or
http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant_clear/ (on this one...be sure to get the MATTE, not the Gloss)
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tbag</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you apply the clear and then need to do a touch up in the paint how well does the new paint stick? </div></div>
It depends on how much of a "touch up" you are talking about and how much "damage" you've got that you need to fix. The great thing about the multiple layers of clear coat is that they'll take damage before your color does. Unless the damage is deep, all the "touch up" you'll have to do is to the clearcoat.
Now, beyond that...small areas of touch up through the clear to the base color will work okay. For very large areas it is generally better to strip and start anew.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is a clear coat a must? </div></div>
Without something on top of your layer(s) of base color to act as a sealant/coating, the finish isn't all that durable at all. The clearcoat is what gives you some staying power with your paintjob. Is it a "must..."? Not 100%. BUT...don't expect too much in the way of longevity of your paint job without it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tbag</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you apply the clear and then need to do a touch up in the paint how well does the new paint stick? </div></div>
It depends on how much of a "touch up" you are talking about and how much "damage" you've got that you need to fix. The great thing about the multiple layers of clear coat is that they'll take damage before your color does. Unless the damage is deep, all the "touch up" you'll have to do is to the clearcoat.
Now, beyond that...small areas of touch up through the clear to the base color will work okay. For very large areas it is generally better to strip and start anew.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 105Amatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is a clear coat a must? </div></div>
Without something on top of your layer(s) of base color to act as a sealant/coating, the finish isn't all that durable at all. The clearcoat is what gives you some staying power with your paintjob. Is it a "must..."? Not 100%. BUT...don't expect too much in the way of longevity of your paint job without it.
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
What are all those marks behind the ejection port, something rubbing in the safe?
I like Brownell's AlumnahydeII for a "rattle can".
What are all those marks behind the ejection port, something rubbing in the safe?
I like Brownell's AlumnahydeII for a "rattle can".
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What are all those marks behind the ejection port, something rubbing in the safe?
I like Brownell's AlumnahydeII for a "rattle can". </div></div>
+1
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What are all those marks behind the ejection port, something rubbing in the safe?
I like Brownell's AlumnahydeII for a "rattle can". </div></div>
+1
Re: Regular rattle can for stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What are all those marks behind the ejection port, something rubbing in the safe?
</div></div>
Guess the diaper I was polishing it with had a little grit on it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What are all those marks behind the ejection port, something rubbing in the safe?
Guess the diaper I was polishing it with had a little grit on it.
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