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Reloading beginner

KillShot

KillShot

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Minuteman
May 25, 2010
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Tulsa, Oklahoma
Well, I've finally become disgusted enough with ammo prices that I'm gonna start rolling my own .308 ammo. I didn't mind buying when SWAmmo was selling it for $21.99/box but now that it's up near $30/box...I'd rather roll my own.

I've read the reviews on the following items and they are positive. I realize I can get the Lee reloading kit for $150 but from everything I've read, the Lee classic press is a better press than the one that comes with the kit.

This is the list I've come up with and remember, I'm a beginner at this so feel free to critique as you see fit.

Thanks for your time.


Amazon.com: Lee Precision Classic Cast Press (Red): Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Lee Precision 90058 Perfect Powder Measurer (Red): Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: RCBS Hand Priming Tool: Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Lee Precision Pacesetter .308 Dies (Red): Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Lee Precision 308 Win Gauge/Holder: Sports & Outdoors
 
I will take a chance and respond. Are you reloading precision ammo or just general 308 rounds?
If just general you will be fine with what you have picked out. I am not a big fan of the Lee primer tool. Hornady ' s is much nicer and easier to use.
There are nicer presses for the money.

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For precision 308 I recommend a Forster Co-Ax single-stage. As for priming tool I use the RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool; works for .380acp all the way up to 338LM.
 
+1 on that. Also I love the redding seating dies for precision.

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I ordered a sweet jewelry scale on amazon for powder measurement that was $123 bucks. It measures to the grain!

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With shouldered cartridges, you're going to need to check for cartridge length. I suggest a harbor freight micrometer and some kind of case trimmer setup. Depending on how much you'll be loading, you can go with manual or powered trimmers. Even drill attachments or standalone machines. I have a wft2 that I like for medium amounts of case neck trimming.

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Harbor freight is straight out of China... quality sucks

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Reloading beginner

I'll be reloading for precision and while I was leaning toward the Forster Co-Ax, I'm not comfortable spending that kind of money before I know if I'll even want to continue reloading.

If there are better single stage presses for $100...I'm all ears. If you're speaking of the Hornady Lock N Load for $135, lemme know and I'll go that route instead.

I have Starrett 6" calipers so I needn't buy any.

I'll only be loading for .308 and how long it takes, from start to finish, is irrelevant because I'm a perfectionist and will take as much time as needed to ensure each cartridge is done right.
 
Rcbs has a nice single stage press

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I highly suggest reading the reloading stickies prior to buying anything. Hand loading precision ammo is not going to save you any money. If you want less cost per round, the $30/box is much less than hand loading. Loading your own, you'll make much better ammo. It is easy to get carried away with gear, so be mindful of that.

Lots of people will say rcbs rock chucker. I have one and much prefer my Co-Ax and Redding T-7. Buy once cry once. In my opinion, there's a lot of gear needed to make consistent ammo.
 
datguy said:
I highly suggest reading the reloading stickies prior to buying anything. Hand loading precision ammo is not going to save you any money. If you want less cost per round, the $30/box is much less than hand loading. Loading your own, you'll make much better ammo. It is easy to get carried away with gear, so be mindful of that.

Lots of people will say rcbs rock chucker. I have one and much prefer my Co-Ax and Redding T-7. Buy once cry once. In my opinion, there's a lot of gear needed to make consistent ammo.
Click to expand...

How do you figure that $30 per box is cheaper than reloading? At that price you're paying $1.50/rd.

I'm no math whiz but I know sure as shit that I can load it for less than that and being able to do so means more time on the range.
 
Reloading beginner

This is how:
Lapua brass .85
Primer .04
Bullet .30ish
Powder .16
Components are conservatively 1.35/ea

In my opinion to load consistent ammo I'd want the following:

Comparator setup (for measuring base to shoulder and ogive) $40
Press $150+ (I'm not a big fan of Lee or Hornady presses)
Seating die, bushing Neck die, Body die (these can be had in a set for about $225
Bushings - I ended up with four $80
I use a 21st century expander mandrel at times about $40
Flash hole reamer. I use 21st CSP again $40 if I remember right
Priming tool $30+
A way to clean brass. In my opinion stainless pin media wet tumbling is the only way to go. $275
A way to measure powder charge. I use a charge master type scale. Lots of options. $150++
A way to trim necks. Wilson trimmer is great. I have about $200 into mine.
Need a way to chamfer and debur necks. I use a Lyman case prep center thing. Can do with a drill or by hand as well. $20+

Then there's the nick nacks and nice to haves:
Satern powder funnel
Loading blocks
Depriming die
Cob media tumbler for when that makes sense (like after sizing to remove lube)
Neck micrometer
Digital scale
Concentricity gauge. I just ordered the accuracy one model.

Then the experimenting-testing out different cases, bullets, powder, etc.

Actual load development will require a chronograph if you don't already use one.

Don't get me wrong, I own all I'm listing and a whole lot more. I have thousands in my reloading bench and I still want a high quality digital scale (or Prometheus), bench source annealer, and a Dillon S1050 for my .45acp. I love hand loading. It is just as much a part of the process to me as pulling the trigger. What everyone says is "you get into reloading to save money, but you spend a lot more."

I hope this helps. There's a lot to be gained by tuning the ammo to your rifle and intended use.
 
The equipment to get started is what costs the most, and I understand that. I won't be loading Lapua brass though.

I'll buy the higher end components as I go but for right now, I'm just looking for something to get started so I'm not going to spend $1000+ out the gate because what's to say I won't grow tired of rolling my own? Then I've lost my ass when it comes to reselling that $1000+ setup.
 
Great call! I bought the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit on sale for about $250 when I started. It got me going. For inexpensive dies, I like Hornady. The seater has a moving stem that aids in locating the bullet. The rcbs hand priming tool in that kit gets the job done.
 
If I were starting all over I'd get a Redding T-7, Forster/Redding/Whidden bushing dies, STM tumbler setup, quality beam scale and get to loading.
 
I'm not sure if you are reloading for the semiauto pictured at the bottom of your posts, or a bolt gun. Typically semiautos require more case resizing than bolt guns. Many people use small base dies on semiautos. You will also get less reloadings from your brass if it is fired in a semiauto. Just a few things to consider when you are doing your financial analysis and deciding on dies etc.
 
HAZORD said:
I'm not sure if you are reloading for the semiauto pictured at the bottom of your posts, or a bolt gun. Typically semiautos require more case resizing than bolt guns. Many people use small base dies on semiautos. You will also get less reloadings from your brass if it is fired in a semiauto. Just a few things to consider when you are doing your financial analysis and deciding on dies etc.
Click to expand...

I'm reloading for a Surgeon scalpel .308
 
Personally, if I had a surgeon rifle I would be doing everything I could to feed it the best ammo I could, just to appreciate the accuracy that it is capable of. As mentioned above, a good idea to review the stickys in the reloading section about brass prep, and al the other things you can do to tune your ammo to the rifle.
 
datguy said:
This is how:
Lapua brass .85
Primer .04
Bullet .30ish
Powder .16
Components are conservatively 1.35/ea

In my opinion to load consistent ammo I'd want the following:

Comparator setup (for measuring base to shoulder and ogive) $40
Press $150+ (I'm not a big fan of Lee or Hornady presses)
Seating die, bushing Neck die, Body die (these can be had in a set for about $225
Bushings - I ended up with four $80
I use a 21st century expander mandrel at times about $40
Flash hole reamer. I use 21st CSP again $40 if I remember right
Priming tool $30+
A way to clean brass. In my opinion stainless pin media wet tumbling is the only way to go. $275
A way to measure powder charge. I use a charge master type scale. Lots of options. $150++
A way to trim necks. Wilson trimmer is great. I have about $200 into mine.
Need a way to chamfer and debur necks. I use a Lyman case prep center thing. Can do with a drill or by hand as well. $20+

Then there's the nick nacks and nice to haves:
Satern powder funnel
Loading blocks
Depriming die
Cob media tumbler for when that makes sense (like after sizing to remove lube)
Neck micrometer
Digital scale
Concentricity gauge. I just ordered the accuracy one model.

Then the experimenting-testing out different cases, bullets, powder, etc.

Actual load development will require a chronograph if you don't already use one.

Don't get me wrong, I own all I'm listing and a whole lot more. I have thousands in my reloading bench and I still want a high quality digital scale (or Prometheus), bench source annealer, and a Dillon S1050 for my .45acp. I love hand loading. It is just as much a part of the process to me as pulling the trigger. What everyone says is "you get into reloading to save money, but you spend a lot more."

I hope this helps. There's a lot to be gained by tuning the ammo to your rifle and intended use.
Click to expand...

I call BS!!!!! Your most expensive item on the parts list was brass, and if you get Lapua Brass, you should get over 10 loadings per case, making that cost 8.5 cents a piece, not your 85 cents a piece. That is how you save money.

Probably, the OP won't save money, cause he'll shoot more. But, he'll break even on cost in the first year, probably shoot more in the first year.
 
Sniper Uncle said:
I call BS!!!!! Your most expensive item on the parts list was brass, and if you get Lapua Brass, you should get over 10 loadings per case, making that cost 8.5 cents a piece, not your 85 cents a piece. That is how you save money.

Probably, the OP won't save money, cause he'll shoot more. But, he'll break even on cost in the first year, probably shoot more in the first year.
Click to expand...

That is what I'm saying. I won't actually save money because I'll shoot more but a box of ammo won't cost as much.
 
@ Killshot, I have not saved money. I have spent a lot. I do, however, have nice ammo, and lots of it. My 338LM is loaded for about $1.35/ shot instead of $5-6/ shot. Once you have the press, scale, powder dump, etc, then you may buy other dies and reload other calibers. Seriously, most find that in one year they will easily recoup the cost of initial set up. Many of us do buy extras that you don't really need, but that help in the quest for perfection. It depends how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go. You will be able to shoot more in the end, for the same price.
 
I was comparing assembling a round, not cost per shot, in hopes of illustrating that hand loading isn't "cheaper" per se. Not until you have the equipment needed. I was trying to help..
 
I just started reloading 2 months ago, but it's addictive as shooting and I enjoy doing premium loads for each of my rifles. Shooting much more, but still have over 500 rounds of each caliber done and ready to hit the range. I've spent about $5000 on my stuff and have a few more things I want, but my powder and bullets should last over a year. When the next ammo shortage and price hikes hit, I'll be ready and still out shooting at least 2 times per week. Reloading for one bolt rifle would cost about $1500 with most of the gear.

I agree (from what I've read) that I would not enjoy loading for my 556 semi auto and just buy Magtech or PMC ammo. Different weapon purpose. Do plan to start loading 45 ACP, but just buy 9mm ammo in same brands. I've still got lots to learn, but you've come to the right place!

To each his own. If you don't enjoy reloading it's still pretty easy to sell stuff if it's good quality and well taken care of.
 
sib1948 brings up a good point. I really enjoy reloading and hand loading. I'm a couple days away from ordering a Dillon 1050 for these .223 and .45acp to keep the process efficient time wise. None of this is "cheap" though :) I do have a ton more ammo available to shoot and I shoot a lot more. My 45 ammo, including brass is still under .20/round. It beats the hell out of factory stuff at $20+/box.
 
datguy said:
I was comparing assembling a round, not cost per shot, in hopes of illustrating that hand loading isn't "cheaper" per se. Not until you have the equipment needed. I was trying to help..
Click to expand...
[MENTION=63985]datguy[/MENTION], I understood what you meant. The initial cost investment certainly isn't cheap but it will pay off by not having to buy ammo at retail when I can load my own and shoot more so basically, I'll be spending the same amount and maybe a little more but I'll also be shooting more. Thanks for all the input you've provided.
 
Happy to help. I started out wanting the same thing. Sharing the little I've learned thus far.
 
I will throw a few ideas out there:

1. Hornady LnL Classic Kit Lock-N-Load Classic*Single Stage Press Kit | MidsouthShootersSupply.com - $280 and the press is decent plus the powder measure is quite good. I don't have any experience with some of the the other accessories in the kit so I'll leave it to others to judge the performance of the hand priming tool etc. What makes this such a sweet deal is the 500 free bullets. Order up the .308 bullets from the rebate, sell them for $100 (or load them, I have had excellent luck with them). $180 for a kit is a pretty good buy.

2. Cheap tumbling kit - Tumbler Kit*(Tumbler, Separator, Media, & | MidsouthShootersSupply.com

3. Forster seating die - Cheaper than the Redding with the same benefits.

4. Worlds Finest Trimmer World's Finest Trimmer at Little Crow Gun Works

5. Make your own case lube from lanolin and alcohol

6. I hate trimming - 308 Winchester*Full Length X-Sizer Die | MidsouthShootersSupply.com

To give you an idea of the savings possible by reloading, here is my current cost per round breakdown:

Brass: 1.4 cents (1x military at .10 each, cost spread over 7 loadings)
Bullet: 18 cents (Nosler 168 Custom Comp found at Cabelas for 185/1k shipped. The deals are out there if you are patient and look hard)
Powder: 11.7 cents (Alliant PP 2000-MR @ 47gr including average cost of shipping and hazmat)
Primer : 2.7 cents (Tula Large Rifle $135/5000 local gun show)

Total: 33.8 cents per round.

Compared to a good price on factory 168/175 ammunition you are saving about $0.66 per round. If you spent a fair chunk of change and got a nice $1000 progressive setup you would break even after loading 1500 or so rounds.

Food for thought.
 
I'm in the buy once camp. If you tire of reloading I believe a Co-Ax will fetch a lot more than a less expensive press on the secondary market.

I bought my first press a few years ago, a Co-Ax and I use Forster dies. I more than happy with the ammo I can turn out. You have a substantial investment in the rifle, consider your reloading somewhat on the same plane. While it's possible to make great ammo with less expensive equipment, I wouldn't trade the dollars and go backwards from where I am now.
 
So far no one has mentioned the manuals. I use several Each bullet manufacturer puts one out each year, and each powder manufacturer puts one out. Depending on what components you use, You will look at that data for both the powder and the bullet, and compare the loads listed. for instance, I use H-335 and a Nosler Ballistic tip in a particular round. I checked BOTH sources for their recommendations and used the data as a starting point and a never to exceed point.
The powered company uses several bullet companies to test their loads, (and lists them) and the bullet companies use several powders to test their different weighted bullets.
I have Nosler, Sierra, Hornady, Speer, Hogden, Alliance, and other powder books.
All the powder companies and most bullet companies have published their data on-line.
Important: Before taking any pat loads from a forum, read what the bullet or powder companies recommend.
and most important, do a thorough reading of the educational info in the front or back of the loading manual.
Read the paper insert CAREFULLY that comes with each set of dies.
Work with someone who has been loading a long time, and known to you to be very exacting in following instructions.
Good luck.
 
hankpac said:
So far no one has mentioned the manuals. I use several Each bullet manufacturer puts one out each year, and each powder manufacturer puts one out. Depending on what components you use, You will look at that data for both the powder and the bullet, and compare the loads listed. for instance, I use H-335 and a Nosler Ballistic tip in a particular round. I checked BOTH sources for their recommendations and used the data as a starting point and a never to exceed point.
The powered company uses several bullet companies to test their loads, (and lists them) and the bullet companies use several powders to test their different weighted bullets.
I have Nosler, Sierra, Hornady, Speer, Hogden, Alliance, and other powder books.
All the powder companies and most bullet companies have published their data on-line.
Important: Before taking any pat loads from a forum, read what the bullet or powder companies recommend.
and most important, do a thorough reading of the educational info in the front or back of the loading manual.
Read the paper insert CAREFULLY that comes with each set of dies.
Work with someone who has been loading a long time, and known to you to be very exacting in following instructions.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

I second this, very strongly!!! I have five books and QuickLoad, and I cross-reference all the time.
 
My advice...Allot the extra money for a Scott Parker tuned beam scale. It's a one time investment that "isn't" fussy like E scales can be. There are all kinds of annoying gremlins associated with E scales. I had 3 of them break or malfunction, one so bad a revolver cylinder got ruined. Just do some research and find out for yourself about those problems.


Some better products are;

Saturn powder funnels
Imperial die wax
Neco dry neck lube and media applicator.
Innovative Technologies digital headspace gauge.

I've backordered a RCBS Summit press and am looking forward to trying it.
 
Last edited:
My reloading tool choices are a bit idiosyncratic, but I think you have a decent list of things for starting out. I'd add a trimmer of some sort--the Lyman EZ Trimmer hand tool works well for me (Better than the Lee). A decent scale?

I do most everything by hand, and while it takes longer, I've avoided purchasing things like tumblers, bench trimmers, case prep monstrosities (which are admittedly cool even if/because they look like sci-fi torture devices), and massive combo scales/throwers. I'm pleased with my accuracy (sub MOA at 200 so far with a stock Remington 700).

It may be that economical equipment and steel wool and brush based case prep is insufficient after 200 . . . I don't know yet. Regardless, I think you have a decent list of things to get yourself started. If you like handloading, you'll add tools according to your own needs and wants as you learn more anyway.

Don't forget case lube.
 
Rattler56 said:
Bottom line, KillShot if your OCD you will love reloading.
Click to expand...

I'm very OCD when it comes to my firearms and accuracy. I will no doubt upgrade everything but for right now, starting off, I just want something to get me in the game, which is why I chose the components I did. They're low cost but aren't junk.
 
steve123 said:
My advice...Allot the extra money for a Scott Parker tuned beam scale. It's a one time investment that "isn't" fussy like E scales can be. There are all kinds of annoying gremlins associated with E scales. I had 3 of them break or malfunction so bad a revolver cylinder got ruined. Just do some research and find out for yourself about those problems.


+1 love my Scott Parker Ohaus M5, just recently got it and threw the rest out!
Click to expand...
 
Put a thumlers tumbler and SS media on your list, plus a universal be caper.
Use a little lemi shine and a liquid dish soap like Dawn Clear, want to avoid bleach, your
brass will come out like new inside and out.
 
Last edited:
Okay, you can remove the rcbs priming tool, as the lee press already has a priming tool on it. Get yourself a lee .308 case length gauge AND lee case trimmer (they are used together, probably cost around $20 if that). And if you want to speed things up, get the lee zip trim. I load very accurate cartridges with these things (and a few other tools) but this is a basic kit.


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Don't go and spend $400 on a press yet, stick with lee for now. To decide if you even LIKE hand loading


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I've decided to take the advice of the assholes who enjoy spending other peoples money (you guys), and purchase a Forster Co-Ax. The problem I have now though, is finding one in stock somewhere.

Any ideas?
 
I just want to add to the topic of accuracy. Reloading your own ammo will yield a much greater MOA then factory ammo ever will. Even with low end reloading equipment you still have control over all of the tolerances, something that is not as strict in factory loads. Even novice loaders, myself included, can shave .25-.50 MOA off with reloading (with a bolt action)

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