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Reloading bench Question?

dup1028

Private
Minuteman
Feb 19, 2011
48
0
63
Falling Waters,Wv
Going to build a bench for hornady lock and load progressive.
What is the best material to use for the work surface?
would it be okay to use stainless for the top or should it be non-metalic?New to reloading so this might be a dumb question.

Thanks in advance
Brian
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

A lot of guys use butcher block. I know a few guys building benches out of aluminum but have never heard of steel being used.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

I think stainless would be pretty expensive. Drilling through stainless is a pain if you can't use a drill press.

I like to use aluminum plate to bolt the press to.
If you want some ideas pm me.

Like Longshot said, butcher block would be cool, especialy in hardwoods. I redid my safe that way, looks awesome.
Miles
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

Well I have access to the stainless and it is 14 gauge so I thought I would turn the sheet down on 4 side and laminate it to a sub top .Thought it might make easier for clean up .
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

A stainless laminate would look great and give you easy cleanup. If you have it, I'd say use it.

I built my top from two layers of 3/4" MDF and covered the top with vinyl tile. Made one hell of a sturdy surface and cleans up quick with a damp rag.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

I use solid core wood doors get from Lowe's or HD ask manager for scratch and dent they can't sell. They usually have in back and can be bought for 10-15$ a pop. Hell for stout.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

I'm going to make my own butcher-block-ish top using 2x4's sandwiched and glued together on edge. I want the top to be thick. My plan is to run them through a jointer on the wide sides, glue and screw them together in 3 sections that will fit through my planer and then plane them smooth and to the same thickness. Put some nice white oak or cherry trim around the edges, route a half round groove towards the front edge to keep stuff from rolling off and put a nice quarter round on all the edges. Put on a light stain and then poly the shit out of it. In my mind, this will make a really nice top that should come in under $50 for somthing that will end up 30" x 96" and ~3" thick after all the jointer and planer work.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

The sound of stainless with all the dropping stuff on it, bending and stresses put into it would probably get old, imo.
It would definately look good though!
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

1 1/8 inch Sturdi Floor. Used for flooring over wood joists. No need to glue two pieces together. 4x8 sheet, it's tongue and grooved so you will want to rip the tongue off then rip to size of top you want.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

I've got a 'Lam-I-Beam' and a 'Para-Lam', each are 3"X12"X14'. I plan on making a few benches out of them. Sturdy, I think so.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

If you choose a metal top, be sure to engine-turn it!
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

MainReloadingBench.jpg


It's not important what material you build the top from if you get your presses mounted over a vertical upright. My top is 3/4" plywood. The uprights are resin deck composite material straddled by 5/16" steel plate. The press mounts are very solid.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

Built a frame out of 2x4's and 4x4 legs, covered it with 2x12's , a sheet of 1/2 plywood and then that dark brown fiber board. Hard and smooth. Been great for
12 years now. 3x8 in size. It did sag a hair in the middle. Maybe a 2x6 frame would
have prevented it in that length. I just used what I had and bought the fiberboard.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

One last idea for you. Go with the butcher block, then buy 2 plates of aluminum, then do an alumium inlay on top and bottom of where your press is going to be. That way you will have a lighter weight lower cost than an all metal bench, but still have a very rigid surface for your to press.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

7inthickreloadingbench11-19-2011.jpg


I just keep adding layers of wood until the bench is stiff enough and heavy enough. The end pictured is 7" thick, the other end is 5" where the co-ax presses live.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

I'm all for building your own. But at sams club they have a bench with a 1.5 inch butchers block on it and adjustable legs. Steel frame and very solid. That's what I use and it was $125 and took 15 minutes to assemble. I thought about building my own but when I saw this and granted I had coupons. I thought screw my time is better suited reloading where it counts. Just my .02 cents.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

I just got finished with mine yesterday. I made the top with fout pieces of 3/4 plywood glued with F26 and screwed together. I used 2x4s ancored to the floor and screwed to the wall studs.

This baby is stout. I could set a Sherman tank on it and do oil changes.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cockcroft</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1 1/8 inch Sturdi Floor. Used for flooring over wood joists. No need to glue two pieces together. 4x8 sheet, it's tongue and grooved so you will want to rip the tongue off then rip to size of top you want. </div></div>

Something like this or Advan-tech. It's crazy stiff.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

There is a big difference between how hard the co-ax handle gets pushed on when it swings 16" out from the bench edge, than how hard the Rockchucker handle gets pushed on when it swings 16" from the edge.

In free standing benches, I put the rockchucker on the end of the bench, so my leaning on the handle has to lift the bench lengthwise, not sideways. That way the bench can be built a little lighter, and still not get two legs lifted off the floor.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like to use aluminum plate to bolt the press to.
If you want some ideas pm me.</div></div>


That's what I do to. I have an old Sams Club bench with a butcher block top. Over the top I have a piece of 1/2" thick T6061 structural aluminum. I drilled and tapped holes so I don't have to use nuts or anything. Very convenient when you wantto remove to make space for another project or just want to remove a press to take it to the range.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
7inthickreloadingbench11-19-2011.jpg


I just keep adding layers of wood until the bench is stiff enough and heavy enough. The end pictured is 7" thick, the other end is 5" where the co-ax presses live. </div></div>

Quicker and easier than all that...get the strong mount for your dillon, it's way worth it.
 
Re: Reloading bench Question?

This is one i built for my reloading crevasse (5'x10'closet).
1.5" square tube frame, .5 aluminium top drilled for any press I have and might buy in the future, stainless guard to keep stuff from rolling off the back and sides, then had it hard anodized.
pic was taken just after instillation.
PB072128.jpg